Film festival 2009

Like every year this years film festival was held on November 10 -17, 2009. As usual I got the passes from my Centre for Latin American Studies.I saw number of movies.


But the ones which I really liked were:

The yellow House - Amor Hakkar of Algeria - revolves around a small village of Algeria where there is no electricity. The story/screenplay written by Hakkar is simple: a poor Algerian agrarian family, who survives by growing and selling potatoes and vegetables, deals with grief following the untimely death of the eldest son in an accident.



Sociologically, the film criticizes the lack of electricity in some villages of the oil rich country and yet commends the quick remedial, intervention when lapses are brought to the notice of the Algerian government officials. The film is not about economic injustice or government apathy; even though these real issues are present in the backdrop. In the forefront of this wonderful film are issues that are more universal: strong family bonds between husband and wife, between father and children, dead and alive.



The first half of the film deals with the impact of untimely death of the farmer's eldest son in an accident while serving in the police force and the father’s journey to Batna to identify and collect the mortal remains.

The second half deals with the husband’s dogged plan to bring the shattered life of his wife to normalcy with the help of a video recording made by his son before his death.



A pharmacist is asked by the farmer for some medicine to cure his wife’s depression from the tragedy, and the well-meaning pharmacist who has heard of a cure (painting the walls of his house yellow) that shares that information with the farmer. Ordinary individuals, who could easily have been indifferent to a poor man, go out of the way to lend a helping hand to man coping with grief. Would such good deeds happen in real life, one could well ask.



No where in Africa - Caroline Link of Germany - This is without doubt the best movie I saw in the film festival .

Nowhere in Africa (German: Nirgendwo in Afrika) is an epic 2001 German film based on the autobiographical novel of the same name by Stefanie Zweig. It tells the story of a Jewish family that emigrates to Kenya during World War II to escape the Nazis and run a farm. The film won an 2002 Academy Award for Best Foreign Language Film




Horn of Plenty - Cuban filmmaker Juan Carlos Tabío uses laughter to explore the socio-economic difficulties facing his homeland in this comedy concerning the chaos that unfolds when word spreads that the Castiñeiras family is set to receive a sizable inheritance.

Cuban filmmaker Juan Carlos Tabío uses laughter to explore the socio-economic difficulties facing his homeland in this comedy concerning the chaos that unfolds when word spreads that the Castiñeiras family is set to receive a sizable inheritance. When Yamaguey resident Bernardito (Jorge Perugorría) first receives word that the Castiñeiras family is about to receive a large inheritance, he's understandably skeptical at first. Upon checking the internet and discovering that news outlets across the globe are reporting the bizarre development, however, his hopes finally begin to rise. It appears that a group of 18th Century Castiñeiras nuns had quietly deposited a large treasure in a British bank, and that the already substantial sum has been acquiring interest ever since. The authorities estimate that each family is set to receive millions, an announcement that has Castiñeiras all across Cuba lining up to prove their eligibility. But considering the fact that there are two separate Castiñeiras bloodlines, which one is entitled to receive the inheritance? In the case of Miguelón, a somewhat slow villager who has had his eye on town beauty Yurima since childhood, the announcement that he is now filthy rich could prove pivotal in helping him get the girl he's always pined after. Later, after the two become engaged and embark on a lavish spending spree, a new development sends the situation spinning in a wholly unanticipated direction.

Amazing Kalna, Burdwan - song in Terracotta

Located just 82 km from Calcutta, Kalna can be an ideal pilgrimage (beautiful terracota temples, river bank) on any weekend and double up as a trip back into the pages of history.The peerless architecture of the temples of this town and their history leave few untouched. The grandeur of the terracotta structures is comparable to those of Bishnupur.The two places are, in fact, inextricably linked. In 1806, the Bishnupur royal estate was purchased by the king of Burdwan, who then settled in Kalna. Ever since, the magic of terracotta has enriched both places. The first reference to Ambika Kalna is found in a 6th century text named Kubjika Tantra. Some historians are of the opinion that during the Gupta era, the place was part of the famous Tamralipta port.

We (Gabriel,Lydie and I) left for Kalna by Katwa Local, which leaves Sealdah station at 7.57 a.m. (ticket Rs 21/-?)You have to wait at the main hall of the station, to to look at the electronic screen to know the platform no. of the train (from which it leaves).Aritra was also supposed to go (though he gave some important inputs for the train) , but he did not turn up ultimately.

{ Howrah – Katwa local : Howrah departure 07:53, Kalna arrival 09:48}

The train was crowded. As usual, I went to the last few compartments to get a comfortable seat. It was the day of Rash Purnima (It is a big event in Mayapur, near Kalna), that is why the train was very crowded. The Katwa local took about 2 hours 45 minutes to reach Kalna.

Then we hired a van rickshaw (instead of cycle rickshaw from the station) for Rs 150 (but it is subject to heavy bargain) just outside the station . It was settled that he will show us all the terracota temples and river bank for around 4 hours.

Places to eat: There are several places to eat. Hotel Priyadarshini, near the bus stand offers good food at reasonable prices. However we did not take our lunch there.

Located on the west bank of the Bhagirathi, Ambika Kalna (popularly known as Kalna) once flourished as a prosperous port town. It reached it's pinnacle of glory during the late 18th century under the patronage of the Maharajas of Bardhaman, who built several magnificent temples with intricate terracotta ornamentation. The maritime trade has long stopped and Kalna has lost the status of a flourishing port city, but the temples are still there, reminding one of Kalna’s glorious past.

Apart from the temples Kalna has several religious structures dedicated to Sree Chaitanya one of the greatest social reformers of Bengal.

In 1702, Aurangazeb appointed Raja Jagatram as the administrator of Kalna, which reached an advanced stage of development under his son Kirtichandra, who took over in 1729.

Though their roots were in Punjab, the royal family of Burdwan contributed immensely to the glory of ancient Bengal. The royals were keen patrons of the arts and several temples of burnt clay - terracota were constructed during their reign.

In 1757, Tilokchand, then Raja of Burdwan, refused to help Lord Clive against Siraj-ud-Daullah. Tilokchand was later vanquished by the British in 1760 and he turned to religion for solace. His change of heart coincided with the golden period of temple architecture in Kalna. Between 1752 and 1766, 7 large and 12 small temples were built in Burdwan.

TOUR

The van rickshaw first took us to the most eye-catching of the Kalna landmarks - a set of 108 Shiva temples within a single complex. Maharaja Teja-chandra sponsored the temples, completed in 1809. The project celebrated the transfer of ownership of the Bishnupur royal estate.

The temples are divided into 2 rows. The first row has 64 temples, out of which 32 have white and 32 black Shiva lingas. The other row consists of the rest of the 44 temples, of which two are empty. All the constructions are in the typical aatchala style.

Pratapeshwar Temple

On the other side of the road lies a walled complex, containing the most diversified form of Bengal’s temple architecture. The star attraction of the complex is the Pratapeshwar Temple - the main attraction of Kalna. Prince Pratapaditya died in 1821. The temple was constructed in his memory in 1849 by his first wife Priya Kumari., with its elegant shape and rich terracotta ornamentation. The architectural style deviates from the Bengal school and is akin to Rekhadeul, characteristic of the Orissa school. It is Designed by Ramhori Mistry, the temple is one of the best terracotta structures in Bengal. Built in Deul (Spire) style the temple contains terracotta plaques depicting themes of Hindu epic, mythical life of Sree Chaitanya, images of Durga & Ravana and various aspects of day to day life.

The other two star attraction of the same complex are Lalaji Mandir & Krishnachandra Mandir. Both are three-storied Pancha-vimsatiratna (25 pinnacled). The temples also have some beautiful terracotta panels.

Krishnachandra Mandir

The majestic 60 ft tall Krishnachandra temple (the 25 towers of the structure are quite unique) built in 1751-55 is very similar in structure to the Lalji Mandir.This temple, too, has been constructed in the aatchala style with fabulous terracotta sculptures on the walls. Episodes of Ramayana and Mahabharata, hunting scenes, childbirth and erotica are carved to perfection. The same complex also houses several minor structures like dilapidated royal palace and the roofless Rash Mancha, several aat-chala structures among which a flat roofed temple of Giri Govardhan needs special mention.

Lalaji Mandir

A nearby Lalaji temple, also with 25 towers,is built in 1739 and is the oldest temple in the complex. . Rajmata Brajokishori built this in 1739, after her return from Vrindavan. Garuda, the mount of Vishnu, is worshiped here. It is fronted by a char-chala (four sloped roof) mandap.

Then we went to Bhaduri-para - it also has a large collection of temples including the Panchavimsatiratna (25 pinnacled) temple of Gopalbari.

Siddheswari Temple

But the holiest attraction of Bhaduri-para is the Siddheswari Temple, dedicated to the Mother Goddess Ambika or Kali. Built in 1740 AD by Chitra Sen, the then King of Bardhaman, this shrine is considered to be the most auspicious one in the town. The char-chala structure reached by a flight of 14 beautifully curved steps (signifying the 9 planets-Nabagraha & the 5 tantric cults) houses the image of auspicious Bamakali Idol, built of a single neem log. The complex also contains three Shiva Temples. This is the place where you will find hari-kath signifying place of sacrifice of goats.

Lydie being sacrificed!

Ananta-Basudev Mandir

The nearby (30 metres away) Ananta-Basudev Mandir is another interesting terracotta temple, but sadly only a few of the panels have survived the test of time. Raja Tilokchand's pet project was built in 1754 in the double aatchala style. The temple was renovated by the Birlas in 1964. (the van wallah initially skipped this temple , but due to my obstianance had to come back and shown the temple).

After this we had our lunch of rice, Dal, Lau (gourd) chingri (prawn), foolkapir(cauliflower) tarkari, fish (Rs 6/7 per piece) and chicken (Rs 7 per piece) for Rs 35/- near Jagannath temple beside River Bhagirathi. The old man who serving the luch was really very nice. I guess it is a residence cum restaurant. I recommend you should have lunch here. Around 15 people can have lunch here. So it is reasonably big.

Then we went to a small temple, where we saw a group of Vaishanvite chanting and singing.We met one of them and he explained us unlike shakti (which is empowerment of woman) , Vaishavites believes in universal friendship and brotherhood. Chaitanya, who is considered as an incarnation of Vishnu and Krishna , is living example of that. some of the people nearby suggested that we should go to Mayapur (on that day itself) to see the Rash festival there.

Jagannath temple

Then we went to see the Jagannath temple beside the river Bhagirathi. We walked along the river.

Thus proving its uniqueness as a confluence of Shakti and Vaishnava forms of worship - a trip to Kalna not only proves to be a unique pilgrimage but also doubles up as a gateway to the glorious days of Bengal’s temple architecture.

By that time it is already 3. 15. p.m. So we decided to go back to station. We heard there is train at 3.30 p.m. . But we missed the train. The next train is at 4.30 p.m. !!

Suddenly I saw a group of people (seemed to be triabls) sitting with a cock. My gut feeling said they might have come from a cock fight (morog larai). And I was bang on target!! We immediately decided that we will go to Hanspukur to see the cock fight. We again hired another van for 40/- (later we had to play 60/- , since it is further away from Hanspukur and the van waited all along for us) to reach the place. We saw the fight , which was quite interesting and learnt the rule of the game. We also learnt every year on 15th day of Kartick month this fight takes place.

After watching the fight , we came back just in time to catch the train at 5.30 p.m. (the train at 4.30 pm has left long back). We got down at Naihati and again took a train to reach Sealdah.

The link to the pictures:

http://picasaweb.google.co.in/bomadg/AmazingKalnaBurdwanWestBengalIndia#

To see more pics click here

(source : information from The Telegraph, http://www.rangan-datta.info/kalna.htm & others)

Music downlaod - Bengali

This is a very good site to download Bengali song and Baul song

http://valobasi-bangla.blogspot.com

Stop gap West Sikkim tour - 2009

Since we (Mohua and I) could not go to Ajanta and Ellora - we planned to go to Sikkim as a stop gap.

Obviously there is no train seat available. So we planned to go by bus. We got the ticket from Raha travels counter inside the main WBSTC Bus depot. Normally a ticket would cost you Rs 700/- per head if you book AC bus ticket. Otherwise it is Rs 350/- for Non AC bus. Normally bus fare for Volvo bus is around Rs 800 -950/-.

Forr Volvo bus online booking is possible .

(http://www.ixigo.com/search/result/bus/Kolkata/Siliguri/)

Train fare(non AC) is however cheaper - around Rs 250.

Our bus left from Esplanade Bus depot at around 8.10 p.m.

SEPTEMBER 30, 2009

We reached reached Siliguri at 8.40 p.m. While I was travelling I was not sure where I will go in Sikkim. But after going through my book, in the bus, I have decided that it is better to go to West Sikkim - i.e. Pellling, Tashiding and Yuksom instead of going to Gangtok for the other main Zone of Sikkim (i.e. North Sikkim - for Yumtang) due to lack of time. North Sikkim being quite far from West Bengal will require more time to travel.

There is a "separate" bus depot for Sikkim - SNT in Siliguri which is basically opposite Tenzing Norgay Bus Depot. In fact the place where we got down (There is a booking counter for all the places of North Bengal and Sikkim) - the SNT Depot is basically 1.5 minutes walking distance. So I thought it is better to go there - since the competition will be more among the travel agents for the same route. In the mean time my friend from Siliguri called me to confirm this. But unfortunately there is huge rush for Sikkim, since I am inside a long weekend. No bengali worth their salt will stay in their house and deprive them of a great holiday !! So what is the bottom line? There is no bus available.All are booked. So we came out of the SNT Depot to look for jeeps diagonally opposite the depots (In fact there are 2 jeep stands side by side) . The rates which are Rs 175 normally, they are asking Rs 400!! Even that is not available for a small group like us.

Ultimately we got a jeep to go to Jorethang for Rs 250 per head. Anindya suggested that it is not a bad idea to halt at Jorethang since Hiley Varshey is nearby - which is a very nice place.

We reached Jorethang after 3 hours journey. Jorethang was really hot. Mohua said there is no point going to a hilly place - which is so hot. It is a very big hill town. We were told there is hardly any bus available to go to Pelling. Just at that point of time we met a group of 4 people who were going to Pelling with a similar fate. And there was another group of 3 people with similar intentions! Immediately I was able to convince them that "we can travel together and just follow what I am doing". After they were convinced, I immediately hired a SUV- Tata Sumo for Rs 1200 and we started our journey to Pelling!!! It is an idyllic town 2,085 m above sea level; it offers breathtaking views of the snow-capped Kanchenjunga, the guardian deity of Sikkim. The hill sides draped in Alpine forests are swathed in swirling clouds and bounded by majestic mountains. It is located 133 km from Siliguri and 125 km from Gangtok. The people are mainly of Nepali descent. Other ethnic groups include the Lepcha and Bhutia communities. Nepali is the most widely spoken language in the district.

Among all the hotels I saw I found real value in Garuda and it was a classy hotel with a great dining room where you can sit and relax and have a glass of beer. Their cook is from Calcutta Red Hot chilli Pepper of Calcutta. So the Chinese food is quite good. The room charge was Rs. 400/-(since this is a season time) with a view. Main part of Pelling looks like a hair pain - one part is called lower and the other part is called upper Pelling.

One of the group (group of 4) members of the jeep (out of four, two of them are working in HDFC Bank in Haldia ) are staying in a hotel (owner is known to them, booked them from Calcutta) in the Lower Pelling (we are staying in upper Pelling), which is slightly more expensive than our hotel (but without doubt not as classy as ours). Next day we planned to make a day trip in Sikkim. Since they know the owner, it was easier for them to hire a jeep from the hotel for tomorrows city tour. In fact I impressed upon them it is economical for us - if we could travel together. More so, since they seemed to be a affable group. so Biswajeet called me to inform that they have almost booked a jeep from the hotel with the help of their friend. Being a seasoned customer, I told him that before you book, you should find out the rates from other agents outside their hotel to have an idea about the market rate. In the mean time I confirmed from my hotel that the rates are Rs 200 per day. So I went to their hotel to pay the money and talk to the travel agent. On reaching I got to know the rates are Rs 250 !!

So never trust your friends when money is involved – the old adage. In any case it was not Biswajeet's fault.(In fact there was no need to hire a full car - it is like "city tour by a bus" in any big city - you have to buy your ticket only)

OCTOBER 1, 2009

Any way next day we went for a city tour .We had an argument with the driver since they were not inclined to show all the places - they were supposed to show us, according to the chart displayed in front of the travel agents office. Ultimately we had to concede to them (However Biswajeet succeeded in paying lower [somewhat normal] the rates to Rs 225!).

We saw few falls including Rimbi falls, Khangchendzonga falls, Khecheoperi lake

(considered one of the sacred lakes of Sikkim. The lake remains hidden in the rich forest cover. It is believed that birds do not permit even a single leaf to float on the lake surface), Rabdense Ruins

( This was the second capital of the erstwhile kingdom of Sikkim after Yuksum and till the year 1814 A.D., the king of Sikkim had ruled the state from this place. The district was under the occupation of the Nepalese for many decades in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. After the Gorkha War, the district was returned to Sikkim.Today, the ruins lie hidden from the main road at a walking distance from the Pemayangtse monastery. It can be approached by following a footpath which branches off the main road. The scenic view from the top of the ruin scanning across deep valley to the mystic heights of Khanchendzonga ranges is something to be cherished and etched in memory, although the ruins per se had very litte to offer.) , Pemayangtse Monastery (Pemayangtse literally means 'Perfect Sublime Lotus'. This is one of the oldest and most important monasteries of Sikkim. Founded in 1705, this monastery belongs to the Nyingma-pa sect. The three-storied building of the monastery houses a good collection of wall paintings and sculptures. On the third floor of the monastery, there is a seven-tiered painted wooden model of the abode of Guru Rimpoche, complete with rainbows, angels and the whole panoply of Buddha and bodhisattva. In January/ February every year, a religious dance called 'Cham' is performed in Pemayangtse) and helipad. We had momo near Katcheporie lake.

After returning back to hotel we were planning to go to Yuksom and Tashiding by hiring a jeep , since there is no package tour for that. So we have to form a group. I met a nice Australian couple in our hotel , seating with Lonely Planet. I was also carrying LP. It appeared to me they were also planning a tour, which might coincide with our tour. So I told them about our plan - they agreed to join us.

Biswajeet and his wife was not sure whether they will go to that place - they were thinking to go back to Calcutta to participate in the Lakshmi Puja. However the other two wanted to stay back. The main problem was their train ticket was not confirmed till that time and it could not be cancelled since it was booked by an agent (who left for Delhi keeping his mobile off!!) through Internet. They had an argument over that and ultimately none of them went for the tour. So we were again short of a full group. i informed Rose and Matt(Australian couple ) that our plan is off!!

OCTOBER 2, 2009

Next day we walked from Pelling to Pem Yangtse Monasatery - the walk towards the monastery was really pleasant. We had some pastries and patties from a bakery neat the entrance of monastery.

Memorial service in progress

After staying some time in the monastery, Rose and Matt went to see Rabdentse ruins (which we saw yesterday) . On the way back we had a brief stop over at Public works department bungalow.

We went to the the second oldest monastery of Sikkim, Sanga-choeling Monastery - ridge above Pelling.To reach the Monastery one has to walk for 45-60-minute on steep hilly slope which lead through rich forests area - the route looks like a great wall of China from a distance. Unfortunately although we rested on the way, but still we could not make it to the top as Mohua felt exhausted. We returned our hotel.





In the mean time Jola called us to inform that she will be joining us from Kolkata by evening. She lost her camera and mobile on the way. After she reached we informed the Police and we were told she left the camera at the check post to enter Sikkim. She was joined by Amrita (She is a Bengali from Bhadreswar, working in Bangalore) she has come to Sikkim for a short vacation to an unknown place!

In the mean time I met a Bengali couple looking for a direction. Immediately I had a rapport with them and told them about our plan to go to Yuksom and Tashiding. They also agreed to make the tour since it will be economical for all of us.

OCTOBER 3,2009

In the early morning we went to the helipad to see the sunrise.

Next day we were joined by Jola, Pallabda and Mahuadi & Rose and Matt. to go to Yuksom and Tashiding.

We saw Khangchendzonga falls and some other falls which we saw yesterday. But the best falls of the place is undoubtedly Phamrong falls - from the condition of the staircase you can make out that not many tourists go there.

First we went to Yuksom ( Yuksom,1780 mt, about 35 km from Pemayangtse, was the first capital of Sikkim. The real adventure begins from here, as it serves as the base camp for unforgettable treks into the wilds of the mountains since it is the last motorable point for the popular trek These high altitude alpine treks take you through fairy tale landscapes, dense Rhododendron forest to heights of about 12,800 ft. at Dzongri or to Goe Chala (via Dzongri) at a height of 18,000 ft. , awe inspiring Mount Khangchendzonga will be the accompany the trekkers during the journey. Khangchendzonga National Park in Yuksom is another place of attraction for wild-life animals and birds. It is the first capital of Sikkim where the first Chogyal of the kingdom of Sikkim was consecrated in 1641 AD by three learned Lamas. The Norbugang Chorten nearby still has the evidence of the consecration ceremony in the form of stone seats and a footprint of the head lama on a stone. The name `Yuksom` means the meeting place of three Lamas. ).

After that we trekked to a ridge just beside this place to see beautiful view of mountain ranges. We had some tea on the top. After some point Mohua stopped accompanying us since the road is too steep for her! She waited for us in the road.

The we went to Tashiding. Tashiding Monastery lies at a distance of approximately 19 km to the south east of Yuksom. Perched on top of the hill rising between the Rathong River and the Rangit River, it provides breathtaking views of the scenery below. Tashiding Gompa of India dates back to the year 1717, which coincided with reign of the third Chogyal Chakdor Namgyal. It is located on the site blessed by the great Guru Padma-sambhava. Built by Ngadak Sempa Chembo (one of the three wise men who consecrated ceremony of the first lama), Tashiding Monastery belongs to the Nyingmapa order. The main temple of the monastery was rebuilt some time back only. It stands encircled by traditional buildings, chortens and mani (stone plates).Mani stand inscribed with the sacred Buddhist inscriptions, like "Om Mane Padme Hum". The numerous stone plates is hallmark of the monastery and it is the work of the master craftsman, Yanchong Lodil. The chortens, preserving the relics of Sikkim Choygal and lamas, stand at the far end of the complex.

After this we finsished our jorney and it was time to go back to hotel. The tour was really cheap and the cost was only Rs 2000 for the whole day - which is much chepaer than previous day's tour. On the way Mohuadi entertained us with Rabindra sangeet.

OCTOBER 4, 2009
Today all of us were suppose to trevel together to Siliguri. Although we were supposed to take different jeeps, I managed to swap the jeeps and we were clubbed in the same jeep!! Only Amrita had to sacrifice since I could not swap it (being one seat). After reaching Siliguri Jola left for Darjeeling and all of us took some rest in Tukuda's house. Amrita,Pallabda.Matt and Rose had lunch (Biryani)near Tukuda's house (1 minute) . It was apparently quite good.

Then we left for Calcutta in two different buses. Matt purchased the bus ticket from Darjeeling. Anindya somehow managed to get the bus tickets for all of us ( including Pallabda,Mohuadi and Amrita) although there was huge rush, through his friend!

For more pictures see http://picasaweb.google.com/bomadg/SikkimIndia#

Guptipara - Hoogly - a real treasure

Guptipara is the home of Bengal’s first community Durga puja, the place where first branded Bengali sweets graduated from makha sandesh (sandesh mixture) to gupo sandesh (a variety of sandesh pieces), and the birth place of legendary folk singer Bhola Moira amid terracotta temples. It is located around 75 km from Kolkata on the Bandel-Katwa railway line.

The place can be visited on a day trip. There are several places to eat

We (Jola and I) left for Guptipara by Katwa Local, which leaves Sealdah station at 7.45 a.m. You have to wait at the main hall of the station, to to look at the electronic screen to know the platform no. of the train (from which it leaves). From Howrah it takes less time. For more details see erail.in

The train was quite empty. The Katwa local takes about 2 hours 10 minutes to reach Guptipara. Then we hired a van rickshaw (instead of cycle rickshaw from the station) for Rs 120. It was settled that he will show us the terracota temples, place where first community Durga Puja took place, river bank.

While going towards the main temple complex , we saw one small temple, an old old zamindar (Mr. Sen) house and a garden house of them. The town is quite neat and clean , unlike what you associate with a normal town which are near Kolkata. We also saw the famous Charriot /Rath of Jagannath and Subhdra just beside the temple complex.

The main main temple complex houses 4 Vaishnava temples — Chaitanya, Brindabanchandra, Ramchandra and Krishnachandra — which offer an interesting mix of Bengal’s temple architecture.

The temples were constructed in different periods.

Chaitanya temple

The Chaitanya temple, built by Bishwar Roy in the mid-16th century, is the oldest. The temple consists of 2 thatched hut-shaped structures. The structure was adorned with some of Bengal’s earliest terracotta carvings, but they didn’t survive the march of time.

Brindabanchandra temple

The 60-feet high Brindabanchandra temple, built in 1810, dominates the temple complex. The aatchala temple doesn’t have terracotta(burnt clay) work but that is compensated by the colourful paintings on both the outer and inner walls. The Brindabanchandra temple is flanked on the left by the Ramchandra temple and on the left by the Krishnachandra temple.

Ramchandra Temple

The ekratna (single pinnacled) Ramchandra Temple was constructed in late 18th century by Harishchandra Roy, the king of Seoraphuli. It may be called the most elegant temple in the complex. The single-storey temple with an octagonal turret contains rich terracotta work on the walls and the turret. The carvings depict war scenes from theRamayana, royal processions, voyages and glimpses of everyday life.

Krishnachandra temple

The Krishnachandra temple was constructed in 1745 during the rule of Nawab Ali Vardi Khan and is also in the aatchala form. All the temples stand on elevated platforms and are interconnected by narrow, arched passageways.

The heritage of Guptipara is not restricted to its temples alone. The place was a stronghold of Vaishnava culture. Even today, residents observe Rash, Dol and Rath festivals with great enthusiasm. Rath Yatra is Guptipara’s biggest festival. The Guptipara rath, one of the tallest in Bengal, covers the longest distance after the Puri rath. A day before Ultarath, a festival called Bhandar-loot is held here.

Bengal’s first community (Jagadhatri) puja was organised in Guptipara when some men were stopped from taking part in a household Durga puja. Twelve(12) of them formed a committee and organised a barowari (baro means 12) puja. There is, however, some debate about the year the puja was started.

While coming back from the temples, we went to the garden house and then saw the Sen's(Zamindar) Puja. (We also saw the place/temple where first community/Barwari puja started, which is near that place) .The puja we saw there is quite interesting. We suddenly saw number of Honda City cars parked outside the place. It is quite unusual site, in a place like this. We chatted with that family and had some prasad (including gupo sandesh.Guptipara is a great place for those with a sweet tooth. The place is famous for gupo sandesh, considered by many as Bangal’s first branded sweet). We got to know that the family is origianally from Bangaldesh. Since the family has become quite big, the responsibilty of the puja is bestowed on the families in a revolving manner. In other words same family does the puja every fourth year . For other years it is the responsibily of other group of the same family. The family is no doubt, quite prosperous.

Guptipara is also the birthplace of kabiyal (folk singer) Bholanath Nayak, popularly known as Bhola Moira, who was defeated by the legendary Antony Firingi in a musical duel.But there is hardly any trace remains of Bhola Moira’s birthplace.

Then we went to the ghat/river bank. We hired a boat for Rs 30 (it is basically a fisherman's boat) and he showed us his day's catch while boating. We returned after a boat ride of 20-25 minutes in Hoogly river.

Then we went back to the station. We skipped our lunch, since the prasad we had at the puja pandal was enough for us. From the station we took a train which goes upto Bandel in an hour. From Bandel we took another train to Naihati and from Naihati we are back to Sealdah.

The following link for pictures : http://picasaweb.google.co.in/bomadg/GuptiparaHooglyWestBengalIndia#
(source : Most of the informations are from writings of Rangan Dutta - in The Telegraph )

For more pics click here

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