Bardi Pahar - Bankura, West Bengal — May 1–3, 2026

If you are looking for a place where Bengal is still wild and unhurried—where rivers carve gorges through laterite hills, sal forests and the only post-dinner soundtrack is the Kansabati River whispering something ancient to the stones below— That place, as it turns out, is called Bardi Pahar. Quietly tucked into the folds of Bankura’s western forests, about 58 km from town, it waits patiently—without marketing, without urgency—for you to discover it.

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Day 1 — Friday, May 1, 2026 | Kolkata to Bardi Pahar

The Train: Rupashi Bangla Express (12883)

There is something wonderfully old-fashioned about catching a train at 6:25 a.m. The world is still negotiating with sleep, tea stalls are stretching awake, and there you are at Santragachi Junction, boarding the Rupashi Bangla Express (12883) with the quiet smugness of someone who has escaped Kolkata before it could protest.

We had already informed Singhji to pick us up at 5:00 a.m.

“Rupashi Bangla”—literally Beautiful Bengal—is one of those rare trains that actually lives up to its name. As it rolls westward, the landscape performs a slow transformation: urban clutter melts into farmlands, then into red laterite soil, terracotta-roofed villages, and eventually something far more timeless.

We arrived at Bankura at 10:30 a.m.—a modest 30 minutes late. In Indian Railways terms, this qualifies as “ahead of expectations.”

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Bankura: A Quiet Cultural Powerhouse

Bankura is one of those places Bengal doesn’t advertise loudly enough.

It is famous for:

• Terracotta temples
• The iconic Bankura Horse (now a symbol of Indian handicraft)
• Its role as the gateway to the Jungle Mahals

The British once labelled it a “backward district.” History, artisans, and common sense have spent the last two centuries disagreeing.

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The Drive: Bankura → Pirolgari More → Bardi Pahar

Our pre-booked non-AC car (₹2000—excellent decision) was waiting. The weather, thanks to recent rain, was unusually pleasant—nature clearly approving our itinerary.

Breakfast was a roadside masterpiece: ghugni + omelette for ₹90—proof that five-star brunches are mostly about marketing.

The road gradually deteriorates into something philosophical. You begin in civilisation and slowly move into terrain that politely suggests: “From here onwards, expectations must be adjusted.”

Eventually, the road ends. The hill begins. And the resort appears.

We reached Bardi Pahar Eco Resort at 12:45 p.m.

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Bardi Pahar Eco Resort: Where Hill Meets River 

Bardi Pahar is a small hillock in the Sarenga block of Bankura. Beside it flows the Kansabati River, carving a gentle gorge. Downstream lies a quiet island called Sabuj Dwip.

Your AC Deluxe room (₹2500/day) faces the river. 

Lunch at 2:00 p.m.: simple Bengali food, surprisingly excellent—the kind that reminds you rice and dal can still have character.

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Afternoon: Sal Forest Trail 

At 3:00 p.m., we set off into the sal forest. Sal trees rise tall, filtering sunlight into a soft green glow. After pre-monsoon rain, the forest smells like earth, leaves, and something quietly ancient. Time appears to slow down by roughly four decades. There is a nice view point "inside the complex."

A Hill With a Memory: The Chuar Rebellion

What brochures don’t tell you: Bardi Pahar has history.

This region was part of the Chuar Rebellion (late 18th century)—a prolonged guerrilla resistance against the British East India Company.

Leaders included:

• Durjan Singh of Raipur
• Ganga Narayan Singh
• Rani Shiromani

This was not a brief revolt—it lasted decades, spreading across Jungle Mahals.

No plaques. No monuments. Just forest, wind, and memory.

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Evening: Riverbed Therapy

At 5:00 p.m., I walked down to the Kansabati riverbed.

Clear water. Smooth laterite rocks. Silence.

You stand there and realise— peace is not complicated, we just make it so.

Snacks at 7:00 p.m.
Dinner at 9:00 p.m.

Lights off early—because here, even electricity respects nature. The power outage is an issue here.

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Day 2 — Saturday, May 2, 2026 | Jhilimili, Forest & Dams

This was not picnic forest.

We were heading into Jhilimili and Sutan Forest, part of the Dalma elephant corridor—linked to Jharkhand forests.

Breakfast: 9:00 a.m.
Departure: 10:00 a.m.

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Baro Mile Forest

By 11:00 a.m., we entered Baro Mile-er Jungle—literally “12 miles of forest.”

Inside, it feels endless. Sal, mahua, shimul trees create a dense canopy. Light filters through like stained glass. You automatically slow down— partly for beauty, partly because the road demands it.

The Sutan Watchtower offers a sweeping view of uninterrupted forest—arguably the highlight of the trip. We saw some campsites destroyed by the Maoists , when it was the hotbed of Naxalites.

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Jhilimili: Where the Earth Sparkles

We reached Jhilimili around 12:30 p.m.

“Jhilimili” means sparkle—thanks to mica deposits that glisten in sunlight.

Location: where Bankura, Purulia, and Midnapore meet.

Legend says it was named after two sisters, Jhili and Mili. Science says mica. Both explanations are acceptable.

Lunch at Hotel Madan Mohan: ₹90 for chicken rice (unlimited rice and vegetables). The food is good
Economics lesson: inflation has not reached Jhilimili yet.

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Talberia Dam

A short drive took us to Talberia Dam.

Quiet. Underrated. Peaceful. There were some boats anchored in the dam, without the boatman. We were the only the tourists.

We sat. Walked. Watched a heron. 

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Mukutmanipur

At 4:00 p.m., we reached Mukutmanipur Dam.

Built in the 1950s under Bidhan Chandra Roy, this is:

• India’s second longest earthen dam (~11.27 km)
• A lifeline for drought-prone districts

The reservoir is vast. The hills form a natural crown—hence the name Mukutmanipur.

Mukutmanipur Dam is a recognised birding hotspot, with over 160 species recorded in the region. Each winter, more than 5,000 migratory birds—such as Lesser Whistling Teal, Red-crested Pochard, Gadwall, Common Coot, along with various terns and wagtails—arrive from late November and remain until late February.

In May, you won’t see these winter visitors, but the resident birdlife and the sweeping landscape more than make up for it.

We also visited Sonar Bangla Resort (formerly the Peerless Resort). The location is excellent, offering stunning views of the reservoir, though the minimum tariff starts at around ₹4,500..

We left at 4:30 p.m. and returned by 5:15 p.m.

Evening walk. Dinner. Sleep. Repeat happiness.

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Day 3 — Sunday, May 3, 2026 

Sabuj Dwip Resort: The Green Island

At 8:00 a.m., I set out for Sabuj Dwip.

Reached via:

• Hitchhiking
• A wooden bridge (₹10 for bikes, free for pedestrians)
• Conversation with a kirtania who charges ₹10,000 per performance for his team of 8 artists.

Conclusion: rural Bengal is economically and culturally more sophisticated than we assume.

The island resort offers even better views—but is slightly less maintained. It is also owned by the same person who owns Bardi Pahar Eco Resort.

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The Return Ritual

Breakfast: 10:30 a.m.

Then I went and sat on one of the chairs placed on the riverbed by the resort, while a few fellow guests were enjoying a refreshing dip in the water nearby.

Lunch: 2:00 p.m.
Check-out: 2:30 p.m.

Drive to Bankura → waiting room → train

We spent our time in the AC retirng room at Bankura Station, before the train came.

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The Return: Rupashi Bangla (12884)

Departure: 17:15
Arrival: ~10:00 p.m. (with a respectable 1.5-hour delay—tradition maintained)

The return journey feels different. The same landscape rewinds—
forest → plains → lights → city → noise

Kolkata slowly reassembles itself around you.

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Final Thoughts: Why This Trip Works

Bardi Pahar is not a destination. 

You come here for:

• Silence
• Forests
• History without signboards
• Rivers without crowds

Summary at a Glance

Day	Key Activities	Transport
May 1	Train → Bankura → Bardi Pahar → Forest walk	Train + Car
May 2	Forest → Jhilimili → Talberia → Mukutmanipur	Local car
May 3	Sabuj Dwip → Return	Car + Train

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Key Action Points Before You Go

• Book Bardi Pahar Eco Resort in advance. 
  Your AC Deluxe room (@Rs 2500 per day) faces the river.  Our room number 20 is highly recommended
  https://wanderlost.in/propertie/bardi-pahar/
  Resort Manager  Goutam +91 9732 701 828
  
  
• Carry cash (ATMs disappear after Bankura)
• GPay works surprisingly well
• Keep expectations low → experience becomes high 
• Vehicle: A local car arranged through Bankura Tourism — ₹3,500 for the full day.

  Our driver, Bappa Karmakar, turned out to be remarkably knowledgeable about a wide range of topics—many of which urban dwellers are often unaware of. It was quite a revelation. I realised how effectively smartphones have democratised access to information; their role in spreading knowledge simply cannot be underestimated.

  Driver contact: Sanjay Pathak — +91 74074 07474
  
  Website: www.mukutmanipurtourism.com

Garchumuk → Gadiara → Geokhali → Mahishadal - Of Rivers , Ruins, and Royal Ghosts: A Weekend in Bengal's Forgotten Heartland

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There are weekends when you sit at home, stare at the ceiling, and wonder why you haven't moved to the Himalayas yet.

And then there are weekends like this one — when Bengal itself decides to remind you that you don't need to go anywhere at all, because everything you're looking for is hiding quietly about 60 kilometres west of your front door.

This is the story of two days, three rivers, a palace that has outlasted empires, and a restaurant that refused to serve us a lemon.

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Day 1: April 3, 2026 - The Road to Garchumuk (Or, How We Discovered That 58 is a Magic Number)

We began our journey at the very Bengali hour of 9:00 AM —which, of course, qualifies as “early morning” in our books - four of us: Sourabh, Mohua, Jadu Kaka (young man of only 90 years !) and Papun — riding along NH16 towards a destination most of our friends had never heard of. This, we felt, was the mark of an excellent trip.

By 11:30 AM, we had arrived at Garchumuk.

Now, "Garchumuk" is not a name that conjures visions of grandeur. Tucked away in Howrah district, this unassuming spot sits at the confluence of the Hooghly and the Damodar rivers — two of Bengal's most storied waterways meeting in a quiet, unhurried embrace. The view across the water is vast and calming in the way only rivers can be: indifferent to everything, including your deadlines.

We checked into the WBFDC Eco Resort right on the riverbank — a two-storeyed property with south-facing rooms, each offering a panoramic view of the confluence. The resort is run by the West Bengal Forest Development Corporation and can be booked at wbfdc.net.

The food was excellent and surprisingly affordable — noticeably better value than the WBTDCL properties we'd encounter the next day.

One minor caveat: there is parking for exactly one car driver, and the second driver must sleep at the reception area. Our driver ended up at a nearby hotel for Rs 850 — a situation that was less than ideal but entirely survivable.

 

The 58 Gate (Atanna Gate) — Where Engineering Meets Spectacle

The resort is located near what locals call "58 Gate" — officially the Atanna Gate, a water barrage at the confluence of the Damodar and Hooghly rivers with, as the name rather bluntly announces, exactly 58 lock gates. Built to regulate the Damodar's notoriously mercurial flow — a river once known as the "Sorrow of Bengal" for its devastating floods — this engineering marvel now doubles as a rather dramatic backdrop for picnics.

In winter, migratory waterbirds from as far as Central Asia and Ladakh descend on the marshy wetlands around the barrage, making it a paradise for birdwatchers.

There is also a Deer Park nearby, featuring deer, peacocks, and reportedly a porcupine — which we skipped.

The confluence here is known for sightings of the Ganges river dolphin, India’s National Aquatic Animal (declared in 2009). 

Did we see one? No. The dolphins, like many government officials, were probably on leave.

A Brief and Unexpected Detour to Burul

A ferry operates from Garchumuk to Burul every hour from a ghat that is, remarkably, exactly one minute's walk from the resort. The fare is Rs 10.

We crossed over, spent ten minutes in Burul — a quiet riverside village in South 24 Parganas — and returned by the next ferry. It was, in the most delightful way, a trip for its own sake: the journey as the destination, the river as the point.

Sunset at Gadiara — The Most Photogenic Ruin in Bengal

After lunch, we drove the 20 kilometres to Gadiara — about 40 minutes — for the sunset. And what a sunset it was.

Gadiara sits at the confluence of three rivers: the Hooghly, the Rupnarayan, and the Damodar. Stand on the bank and you can actually see three distinctly coloured streams of water meeting — a geological party trick that never gets old. The expanse of water is so wide here that it resembles a sea, and the effect at dusk — with the sky turning amber and the distant lights of Geokhali and Nurpur blinking across the water — is quietly, unexpectedly magnificent.

But Gadiara holds more than a pretty view. It holds history — or rather, the ruins of history.

The Curious Case of Fort Mornington

After the Battle of Plassey in 1757, Robert Clive — fresh from the single most consequential military engagement in the story of British India — turned his attention to consolidating control over Bengal's vital river routes. At Gadiara, where the Hooghly and the Rupnarayan converge, he ordered the construction of a fort.

This was Fort Mornington — built to ward off river pirates who regularly terrorised the waterways, and to keep a watchful eye on the Dutch settlements near Serampore and the French colony at Chandannagar, both of whom were eyeing the same trade routes with considerable interest. From here, searchlights were cast across the water at night. The British kept watch.

As for the name — "Mornington" — historians are not entirely sure. One theory links it to Richard Colley Wesley, the 1st Marquess Wellesley, who was known as the Earl of Mornington and served as Governor General of India from 1798 to 1805. Another theory links it to a small town in Ireland of the same name. A definitive answer, as the Howrah District Gazette of 1909 dryly notes, has not been found.

By the early 20th century, the fort had fallen into disuse. Then, on October 16, 1942, a catastrophic cyclone struck Bengal. The floodwaters tore at the riverbanks and the fort — already weakened by erosion — collapsed into the river. Today, all that remains are a few broken brick walls, visible only at low tide, half-submerged in the Hooghly. We did not see this Fort.

There is also an old lighthouse nearby — a chimney-like brick structure that narrows toward the top — which once guided ships through the confluence.

No initiative has been taken to protect what remains. The fort may one day disappear entirely into the river. Perhaps that is fitting. The river, after all, was here long before Robert Clive. We did not see this Fort too.

We watched the sunset, paid our respects to the submerged history, and drove back to Garchumuk for the night.

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Day 2:April 4, 2026 - Ferries, Palaces, and the Lemon Incident

Morning: Ramakrishna Ashram at Belari

We began the day with a brief drive to the Ramakrishna Ashram at Belari — a short distance from the resort, quiet and contemplative in the early morning. It set exactly the right tone for the day ahead.

Back to Gadiara — and the Ferry We Almost Missed

We returned to Gadiara to catch the ferry to Geokhali. Ferries depart roughly every hour. We missed one by 9 minutes — which, if you have spent any time in Bengal, you will recognise as a time-honoured travel tradition.

The next one arrived (after 1 hour), we climbed aboard, and 15 minutes and Rs 8 later, we were across the Rupnarayan.

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Geokhali — The View That Earns Its Own Silence

Geokhali (also spelled Geonkhali) sits in the Mahishadal block of East Midnapore, at the confluence of the Rupnarayan, Damodar, and Hooghly — effectively the same 3 rivers you saw from Gadiara, now viewed from the opposite bank. The perspective changes everything.

Interestingly, this village — now known for its PHE water treatment plant that supplies fresh water to the industrial town of Haldia — carries a very old name. There is a nice PHE Bungalow here, I am told. Medieval records refer to it as "Jiban Khali", and the earliest zamindari records of the Mahishadal Raj trace their origins to this very place.

The Haldia Development Authority runs a guesthouse here called Trisrota, bookable at hda.gov.in/guesthouse. The riverfront views make it worth considering for an overnight stay.

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Mahishadal Rajbari — A Palace That Remembers the Age of Akbar

We hired a toto (Rs 200 x 2, with waiting) and drove the 10 kilometres to Mahishadal Rajbari.

Entry: Rs 20.

The history of this place is layered. The story of the Mahishadal Raj estate begins in the time of Emperor Akbar — which is to say, the mid-16th century, when a businessman named Janardhan Upadhyay arrived from Rajasthan and established a zamindari in what was then called Jiban Khali. His descendants ruled for generations, accumulating land, wealth, influence, and eventually the title of Raja.

The zamindari reached the peak of its glory in the late 18th century under the remarkable Rani Janaki Devi — the widow of Raja Anandalal Upadhyay, who took control of the estate around 1770 after her husband died without a male heir. By all accounts, she was a formidable administrator: sharp, educated, generous to her subjects, and entirely unintimidated by the responsibilities thrust upon her. She is believed to have commissioned the Phulbagh Palace, which was built as a guest house — the architectural equivalent of a very confident personal statement.

The estate complex you see today comprises:

• The Phulbagh Palace (New Palace, 1900) — a grand white structure blending classical, colonial, and Central Indian architectural styles. Now converted into a museum, it houses stuffed tigers, leopards, bears, swords, antique furniture, Belgian glassware, royal medals, and an assortment of hunting artifacts. Photography is prohibited inside. This turns out to be fine — some experiences are better held in memory than archived on a phone.
• The Old Palace (1857) — a large, two-storeyed building with beautiful arched windows, now in a state of dignified ruin.
• The Navaratna Temple — a magnificent nine-towered structure dedicated to Radha Gobindo, the family deity, with an inscription above its entrance in an archaic form of Bengali script.
• A cutchery (court house), a ghat, and a brick octagonal Rasmancha, all surrounded by a moat.

The palace has been a favourite location for Bengali film shoots — the celebrated Basu Poribar, starring Soumitra Chatterjee and Aparna Sen, was filmed here extensively. Walking through it, you understand why: the place has a photogenic grandeur that no set designer could convincingly fake.

After thoroughly exploring the complex, we took the toto back to the Geokhali ferry ghat, crossed back to Gadiara, and arrived at the WBTDCL property — Roomanjari — for lunch.

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The Lemon Incident (A Cautionary Tale About Bureaucratic Rigidity)

Roomanjari, we should note, has been recently refurbished and genuinely looks good — comparable to any respectable mid-range property. The food was reasonable. The service, however, entered the annals of our collective travel memory for a different reason.

We asked for a lemon.

Not a limoncello. Not a three-course salad. A lemon. They refused, on the grounds that lemons are only served with salads, and they would only bring a lemon if we ordered a salad.

We have since decided to formally complain to WBTDCL management about this policy, which we feel represents a philosophical misunderstanding of the purpose of lemons. The universe is acidic. Lemons are its remedy. They should be freely available to all people at all times, regardless of salad-ordering status.

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The Literary Finale: Sarat Chandra's House at Deulti

As the afternoon sun lengthened shadows across the road, we made one final stop — arguably the most moving of the entire trip.

We reached Deulti at the highly unfortunate and very precise time of 5:48 PM—which, as fate would have it, was exactly when the gates had just been closed. Perfect timing, as always 

But then entered our saviour—Peltu da (a.k.a. Prabir da), a proud son of the village. His family is related to Sarat Chandra's sister. Thanks to his local influence (and perhaps a bit of Bengali networking magic), he connected us with Tubai and Dulal da.

Now, Dulal da is no ordinary gentleman—he once served the wife of Sarat Chandra Chattopadhyay himself !

Moved by our desperate, history-loving faces (or perhaps by Peltu da’s persuasion), they graciously opened the gates for us and gave us a personal tour.

Moral of the story: In Bengal, connections work faster than Google Maps—and far more reliably than closing hours. 

Deulti is an otherwise unremarkable village on NH16, about an hour from Gadiara. What makes it extraordinary is the two-storeyed house that sits near the banks of the Rupnarayan river, in a tiny hamlet the owner himself renamed "Samtaber" (from Samta).

The owner was Sarat Chandra Chattopadhyay (1876–1938) — quite possibly the most widely read, translated, and adapted Indian novelist of the 20th century. Author of Devdas, Parineeta, Srikanta, Dena Paona, Mahesh and dozens of other works that tore apart the polite hypocrisies of Bengali society with surgical precision. He bought the plot of land here in 1919 for Rs 1,100, had the house built in 1923 for Rs 17,000, and moved in by 1926.

He lived here for 12 years, until moving to Calcutta, where he died in 1938 (in Park Sit Nursing Home). Many of his most beloved works were written at the wooden desk that still stands inside.

The house itself is a two-storeyed Burmese-style structure, reflecting his years spent in Burma — a period that followed the death of his first wife and child, and preceded his return to the literary life for which Bengal will always remember him. Inside, preserved with care, are his Burma teak furniture, his writing desk, a Japanese clock, his hookah, bookshelves, and a homeopathy chamber he ran free of charge for local patients.

In the garden, the bamboo and guava trees he planted himself still stand. The samadhis of Sarat Chandra, his second wife Hironmoyee Debi, and his brother Swami Vedananda rest quietly here. The house is a protected heritage site under the West Bengal Heritage Commission Act of 2001.

When Sarat Chandra first moved to this village, conservative elders were hostile to his presence — put off by his outspoken attacks on the caste system, his habit of fraternising with people from lower castes, and the fact that he was, in their estimation, an outsider. He persisted. His fame grew. His generosity became known. They warmed to him.

There is a lesson in that, somewhere.

We reached Kolkata at 9:45 PM — full, tired, and quietly grateful.

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How to Do This Without Spending a Fortune

By train (cheapest option):

Take the Sealdah–Budge Budge suburban line to Palpara or Budge Budge station, then a toto to the Burul Ferry Ghat (~Rs 10–20), and a ferry to Garchumuk.

Summary routes:

1. Sealdah → Budge Budge by train → Burul Ferry Ghat by toto → Garchumuk by ferry. Stay at wbfdc.net.
2. Gadiara by ferry → Geokhali. Stay at hda.gov.in/guesthouse (Trisrota) or the WBTDCL property at Gadiara wbtdcl.wbtourismgov.in.

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Nearby Places Worth Adding If You Have Time

Place	Distance	Why Bother
Nurpur	Short ferry from Gadiara	Historic pirate den turned ferry crossing, with a beautiful Port Trust Bungalow; ferry connections onwards to Raichak and Diamond Harbour
Raichak	Ferry from Geokhali	Riverside resort town; Raichak Fort (now a luxury hotel)
Diamond Harbour	Ferry from Geokhali	Historic fort; the Hooghly meets the Bay of Bengal
Tamluk (Tamralipta)	30–40 km from Mahishadal	Ancient port city with one of India's oldest recorded histories, going back to the 4th century BCE
Bargabheema Temple	Near Mahishadal	Ancient temple, locally revered
Deulti	~1 hr from Garchumuk	Sarat Chandra's house (as above) — do not skip this

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Three districts of West Bengal, crossed in a single afternoon by ferry. That is the quiet miracle of this corner of the state — history, rivers, and the kindness of strangers at the ghat, all folded together without fuss. Bring a lemon.

 

 Kakrajhor Tour  (Feb 14-16, 2025)

14.02.25   HWH (0630 hrs) > Ghatshila (910 hrs) > Charmurti Resort - Kakrajhor (by auto) 

15.02.25    Kakrajhor Resort   >  Belpaharii > Kakrajhor Resort

16.02.25   Kakrajhor Resort > Kakrajhor  >  Kakrajhor Resort > Ghatshila (1430 hrs)>HWH (0800 hrs)

 ## Above are the scheduled time

Travel Companions & Last-Minute Changes

The original group included me, Tutu Da, Mohua, and Bunty. Unfortunately, Srijan dropped out at the last moment, and Barun, suffering from flu, also canceled his trip after realizing the severe train delays.

Day 1: February 14, 2025 – Arrival & Exploring Amlasol

Our trip began with a delay as our Janashatabdi (train: 0620 AM) was running late by 4.5 hours. Instead of waiting endlessly, I booked (Rs 130/- per head in a Chair car) the Ispat Express ( 6:30 AM) at around 4 am in the morning, which also departed after a 1.5-hour delay. But by mistake, I booked the ticket for 14th March ! We had to pay a fine to the TTE and paid Rs 360 for the fare per head.

Finally, we reached Ghatshila at 1100 am and took an auto to our accommodation, Charmurti Resort, for Rs 600. 

Name: Ghatshila topographic map, elevation, terrain.

Location: Ghatshila, Purbi Singhbhum, Jharkhand, India (22.56666 86.36979 22.76384 86.63818)

Average elevation: 175 m

Minimum elevation: 70 m

Maximum elevation: 513 m

https://en-gb.topographic-map.com/map-mc5b14/Ghatshila/?center=22.66264%2C86.50909

Dominant languages of East Singhbhum region Jharkhand...

34.42% Bangla.

15.92% Santali.

16.83% Hindi.

7.28% Urdu.

5.65% Bhojpuri.

5.27% Odia.

2.76% Ho.

2.73% Mundari.

1.86% Punjabi.

1.51% Magahi.

1.28% Maithili.

0.97% Telugu

As their first language at the time of the 2011 Census of India.

The increasing dominance of Hindi is steadily eroding and killing the rich linguistic diversity of India, thereby threatening the unique cultural heritage of India.

It took almost 1 hours to reach the resort .The resort charged Rs 1500 per day with food, and for a group of 4 in one room, the cost will be Rs 1300 per person. We opted for 2 person per room. The room was spacios and toilet is big with commode shower.

https://www.kakrajhor.com/

There are some other resorts also. They are few and far between.

You will get all the phone numbers here.

We were served a delicious lunch by Thakurdas Mahato, who is nephew of famous Mahato of Charmurti fame.

The first day was spent exploring the nearby areas at our own pace. We walked around the lush green surroundings, visited a watchtower that offered a panoramic view of the landscape, and ventured into the nearby villages of Amlasol and Amjharna Lake. The rustic charm of these villages, with their simple yet warm lifestyle, was captivating. Amjharna lake, provided a peaceful retreat amid nature.

One of the most interesting spots we stumbled upon was a junction where West Bengal and Jharkhand meet. There we found a school where they teach Santali and Alchiki script was written onthe wall.

GPS LOCATION:

https://goo.gl/maps/Q7EEgxMvJY8KsCk18

PRATHAMIK VIDYALAYA KANIMAHOLI (written in Hindi and Alchiki language)

DPEP NPS KANIMAHULI

UDISE Code: 20180605301

Year Of Establishment: 2000

Link:  https://stackschools.com/schools/20180605301/dpep-nps-kanimahuli

Surprisingly, I was able to get in touch with my PA at this location, due to network availability. He told me  that our Management was frantically serching for me for our coming Board Meeting. We also took some time to play with the local village children, adding a heartwarming experience to our day.

We were served a delicious dinner by Thakurdas Mahato, who is nephew of famous Mahato of Charmurti fame

Day 2: February 15, 2025 – Ketaki Lake & Belpahari Tour

We started our second day with a planned excursion to explore the beautiful landscapes around Belpahari. Our first stop was Ketaki Lake, a picturesque water body surrounded by dense forests. The tranquil atmosphere and the reflection of the lush greenery on the calm waters made for a breathtaking view. There we met the CRPF Jawans and had a chat with them. We were told it was a hotbed of Maoist even few years back.

The tribal houses are as usual very colourful.

From there, we moved towards Belpahari , Ghagra River. We also visited the Tarafeni Dam, a lesser-known but scenic spot ideal for soaking in the natural beauty. Along with these, we explored other tourist spots in the area, immersing ourselves in the serene and unspoiled wilderness.

For lunch, we decided to eat outside the resort, enjoying a delicious local meal before heading back.

The auto fare for the entire day's tour was Rs 1800. However, throughout the day, I remained unreachable mostly as only Reliance Jio had network coverage in this region. Our management kept calling me regarding the board meeting, but I was off-grid.

We were served a delicious dinner .

Day 3: February 16, 2025 – Lakjal Cave, Khandarani Lake & Return Journey

Since we had missed a few places the previous day, we dedicated our last day to covering them. Tutu Da did not join us for this part of the trip. Our first stop was the Laljal Cave.

Next, we visited Khandarani Lake, another beautiful and serene spot. The tranquil waters, surrounded by dense forests, created a mesmerizing view. It was a perfect place to reflect on our journey before heading back. 

We concluded our sightseeing early and returned to our resort by 11:45 AM. 

We were served a delicious lunch.

The auto fare for the day was Rs 1500.

Change of Plans & Journey Back

Initially, we had planned to take the 1:20 AM Badampahar train on February 17, but due to continuous train delays (5-6 hours late on average) due to the priority given to Vande Bharat trains and repair of lines, we decided to change our plans. Instead, we boarded a MEMU train at 2:30 PM, buying the ticket from the platform itself  for Rs 85. This turned out to be a wise decision, as we reached Howrah at 9 PM and were back home by 10 PM.

Final Thoughts

Despite the train delays and connectivity issues, our trip to Kakrajhor and Belpahari was an enriching experience. The natural beauty, the simplicity of the villages, and the peaceful lakes made this journey memorable. The warmth of the local people and the untouched beauty of these destinations truly made it worth every moment. If you want to spend some quite time in the lap of nature with no touristic crowd. Most of the time you are on your own here. Please note only Reliance Jio works here.

 Visit to boat making (cottage Industry) workshop of Sripur (Balagarh Railway Station) , Terracotta temples - December, 2023 

and 

sets of Mrinal Sen's Akaler Sandhane at Sukhuria (Somrabazar Railway Station)

Source : https://rangandatta.wordpress.com/2012/02/19/sripur-temples-boats/. The italics part are taken from this blog

03.12.23

Understand Sripur and Sukharia

Almost a hundred years after Vasco da Gama landed on the West Coast of India, the Portuguese & other European powers started making inroads into Bengal. Using the intricate network of rivers , the Europeans settled in various parts of Bengal. Their huge barges and ships sailed up & down the Hooghly carrying merchandise from far off lands. Soon the country was in need of boats, barges and even ships. Europeans, who had made Bengal their trade and administrative hub in their colonial pursuits, realised that they would need an indigenous ship-building industry.

In the early 18th century Rameshwar Mitra of Ula or Ula Birnagar, worked as the Auditor General in the court of Murshid Kuli Khan in Murshidabad. In 1704 Rameswar Mitra received official Mustaufi title from Emperor Aurangzeb in Delhi. Rameswar Mitra made a huge fortune and constructed several mansions and temples in Ula Birnagar.

In 1708 Rameshwar Mitra’s eldest son Raghu-nandan also left Ula Birnagar and settled in Sripur. Taking advantage of the increasing river trade by the European traders, a man called Raghu-nandan established a full-fledged boat-making industry in Sripur in the early 18th century. Taking advantage of the river trade he soon made a fortune and established a fort complex complete with several temples and other religious structures decorated with elaborate and intricate wood curving. The fort has long crumbled into dust but a few of the temples have survived the test of time and can still be seen to this day.

Rameswar Mitra’s another son Anantaram Mitra left Ula Birnagar and settled in Sukharia in 1712. Anatram also built a huge mansion in Sukharia along with several temples. The mansion is in ruins and many of the temples have been converted into modern structures and in the process loosing their beauty and grace. This will be discussed later.

The century old temples adorned with boat-making workshops, which are just as old, make Sripur + Sukharia , a wonderful destination for a day trip. 

Balagarh to Sripur

How to reach

Nearest railway station to go to Sripur is Balagarh in the Hooghly district. It is a two-hour journey (65 km) from Sealdah station. We took Sealdah-Katwa local at 8.06 am from Sealdah. From Howrah the options are more. 

Refer to the local train map, to know more : www.bomadg.in

Rickshaws are available from the Balagarh station to the Sripur temple complex, but it is better to walk, since you will see numerous boat making workshop on the way. It is a pleasant 25 minutes walk. It is quaint village - not a crowded place at all. It is not yet inundated with Rickshaws, Autos ! We had a nice luchi and ghugni, on the way to the temple complex for a princely sum of Rs 5 each !

https://maps.app.goo.gl/aP99KgHefEosfZ6K6

On the way to the temple (from the station) we saw numerous boat-making workshops. It seems like a cottage industry here ! Only small boats (upto, say, 100 people can seat) are now made in the workshops. But the thrill of watching a vessel take shape before your eyes remains undiminished.The elderly boat makers have interesting anecdotes to narrate about shipbuilding in Bengal. The Boats are mostly made of Babla wood (since it can withstand water, better) and the upper part of the boat (not submerged in water , but is more prone to wear and tear, due to human intervention) is made of sal wood - since it is sturdier. Most of the boats are going to Jharkhand . The cost varies between Rs 12,000/- to Rs 250,000/-

The basic frame is bent with heat treatment. After that it is tied with ropes, lest it will be straightened when cold.

Mitra also built a fort complete with several temples and other religious structures decorated with elaborate and intricate wood carvings. The fort has long crumbled but a few of the temples, along with the intricate wood work, can still be seen.

1.Our temple tour of Sripur started at the Dolmancha. It comprises a single-storeyed temple housing a Shivling alongside a two-storeyed structure where Holi or Dol Purnima used is celebrated. With its pillars and arches, the complex provides a glimpse of the glorious days of Sripur.

2.Next take right to go to the Jora Shibmandir next. Terracotta works once adorned the walls of the twin temples but have sadly been plastered over in the recent past.

3.A few minutes’ walk will lead you to the main cluster of temples in the town. It houses temples of Radha Gobinda and other deities, a rasmancha and a natmandir. 

The main attraction is the Chandimandap. The Chandimandap, constructed in 1707 by the Mitra Mustafi family, has recently been declared a protected monument. Unfortunately, its hay-thatched roof has been replaced with corrugated tin sheets thus robbing the structure of its beauty and grace. The inside walls of the Chandimandap are decorated with intricately carved wooden panels. The pillars and roof beams also have floral and geometric designs carved on wood.

The temple complex houses an octagonal Rasmancha with nine pinnacles (one each at the eight corners and a larger central one) and a natmandir. 

During Ras Mela, the deity is taken from Radha Gobinda temple and is kept there. When we went there, Ras Mela just got over.

From there we went to the Balagrah Sahebdanga Ferry ghat. On the way saw more boat making workshops. At Balagrah Sahebdanga Ferry ghat, we had our lunch. We did not take any boat ride though. The boat ride will take you to Nadia on the other side of the Hooghly river.

Staying - There is no hotel or lodge in Sripur. There is a nice eatery near Balagarh Sahebdanga ferry ghat - called Jibhe Jol. We had our lunch there.

Sukharia

Balagarh to Sukharia

From Balagarh Sahebdanga ferry ghat, we (5 people) reserved an auto for Rs 250 to go to Sukharia to see other group of temples and Mrinal Sen's Shooting site. The Auto fare is Rs 20 per head to go to Sukharia from Balagarh Sahebdanga ferry ghat. If you have time , you can walk also. 

or

Somrabazar to Sukharia

Nearest railway station to go to Sukharia is Somra Bazar (Sukharia, a quaint village between Balagarh and Somra Bazar railway stations ) in the Hooghly district. It is a 2 hour journey (68 km) from Sealdah station. From Balagarh to Somra Bazar it is only 3 Km (one station away).

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We took an auto to reach Sukharia from Balagarh Sahebdanga ferry ghat. If you are coming from the Train station, you will see the temples in reverse order.  The temples are located close to each other and have to be covered on foot.  

Sukharia, a quaint village, has the distinction of being the site of some of the finest temple architecture of Bengal. Sadly most haven’t withstood the vagaries of time. A few have been rebuilt but the modern structures lack the grace or beauty of their historic counterparts. Even then, a trip to Sukharia gives one a rare insight into the diversity and richness of Bengal’s temple architecture.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/AdDVPq13Jr3KaWqG9

On the way to Radha Kunj (Sukharia) falls Sukharia Sabuj Dweep Ferry ghat Jetty , from where one go to Sabuj Dweep and halt for the night at Sabuj Dweep , owned by West Bengal Tourism Company. 

1. First we reached the Ananda Bhairavi temple, the star attraction of Sukharia. Soon you will be greeted by the reflection of the towering temple on the adjacent lake, along with those of a number of smaller temples in the complex. Built in 1813 by Bireshwar Mustafi, the 3-storeyed Ananda Bhairavi temple is crowned with 25 pinnacles. 

The 4 corners of the first level are crowned with 3 pinnacles each (3 x 4 = 12), the 4 corners of the second level are crowned with 2 pinnacles each (2 x 4 = 8), the third level comes with a pinnacle at each corner and also a central pinnacle (4 + 1 = 5). 

This is an extremely rare form of temple architecture and according to some, there are only 5 such temples in West Bengal.

1a. The approach to the Ananda Bhairavi temple, housing the idol of Anandamoyee Kali, is flanked by 2 parallel rows containing 6 temples each. 5 of the temples on each row are aatchalas (eight-sloped roof). One temple on each flank has a pancharatna (five-pinnacle) roof. One of the pancharatna temples is dedicated to Ganesha, while the other nine house shivalingas. The temple has undergone repeated renovation and reconstruction and in the process, lost much of its old-world charm.

2. Radha Kunja lies next (40 Metres) to Ananda Bhairavi temple, the ancestral palace of the Mustafi family or Sukharia zamindar palace. Although in ruins, the family Durga Puja is still held there. Residents said Radha Kunja was originally built by the Mitra Mustafi family of Sukharia. Eventually, the estate was inherited by Bhujendranath Biswas, the son of a female member of the family, in the absence of male successors. Bhujendranath Biswas Biswas was an admirer of arts and culture.

The Hooghly district administration on Sunday installed a plaque at the Sukharia zamindar palace in Somra Bazar in memory of filmmaker Mrinal Sen on his birth centenary. Sen is regarded as part of the triumvirate of Indian greats, along with Satyajit Ray and Ritwik Ghatak, who ushered in New Wave cinema. From September 1980, Sen visited the impoverished Hooghly village and stayed at the palace, Radha Kunja, for two months to shoot his film Akaler Sandhane (In Search of Famine). 

The district administration, with the support of Balagarh Bijoy Krishna Mahavidyalaya and the Biswas family (successors of the erstwhile zamindar), put up a large plaque with the detailed history of the building and the film to enhance interest in the spot and the younger generations’ awareness. Akaler Sandhane depicted a film crew arriving at a village to make a film on the ghastly manmade Bengal famine of 1943 — caused by the British imperial government’s policies during World War II under Prime Minister Winston Churchill — that resulted in the death of at least 38 lakh people from starvation, diseases aggravated by malnutrition, displacement and lack of healthcare. Some of Indian cinema’s arthouse icons, such as Smita Patil, Dhritiman Chatterjee, Dipankar De, and Rajen Tarafdar were in the film. The film won the National Film Awards in 1981 for best feature film, best direction, best screenplay and best editing. At the 31st Berlinale, it won the Silver Bear (Special Jury Prize). 

The initiative to put up the plaque was taken by the National Service Scheme unit of the college last year .Partha Chattopadhyay, a teacher who is in charge of the NSS unit, said:“Radha Kunja itself has great historical significance. The visit of Mrinal Sen enhanced it.” A book, titled Hooghly Zilla O Mrinal Sen (The Hooghly District and Mrinal Sen) and authored by Chattopadhyay, was released. Unveiling the plaque, Balagarh block development officer Niladri Sarkar said it was a tribute to the great filmmaker. “We have other plans for this spot. We would talk to the owners of the building for the promotion of tourism,” he said. Bhaskar Biswas, a member of the erstwhile zamindar family, said they were honoured to have the plaque unveiled there.

www.telegraphindia.com

3. Next stands the Nistarini temple. Built in 1847 by the Mustafi family, this nabaratna edifice has dome-shaped pinnacles. The temple was once flanked by a natmandir but it has long collapsed. Four pillars are all that remains of it. It’s the same story for the Mustafi family’s thakur dalan. A few pillars and arches bear testimony to a glorious past.

4. Just beside is Hara Sundari temple. Built in 1813, this nabaratna (nine-pinnacle) structure is similar to the Ananda Bhairavi temple. Only in this case each row consists of 7 temples, comprising 2 pancharatna and 5 aatchala temples. Reconstruction has taken its toll on this temple too.

5. Next is the Siddeshwari Kali temple. A walk for about 20 minutes along the village road will take you to the temple. The flat-roofed Siddeshwari temple, built in 1785, is considered to be the oldest in Sukharia. The temple has been reconstructed and local residents speak enthusiastically about it. But the reconstructed temple with a single-pinnacle concrete roof and cement-plastered walls and pillars have wiped out centuries of history.

Standing under an ancient banyan tree, the temple overlooks the Hooghly, offering a grand view stretching to Sabuj Dwip (the green island), a popular picnic spot approachable from Chinsurah.

Ask for directions to  go to Somra Bazar Train Station.

Staying - Sukharia is ideal for a day trip from the city. However near the Sukharia station  there is Sabuj Dweep Ferry ghat Jetty , from where one can halt for the night at Sabuj Dweep owned by West Bengal Tourism Company. You can book it online.

We took the train at 1712 hours from Somra Bazar to go back to Sealdah.

Neora Valley National Park - Kolakham - Lava - 2023

 Neora Valley NP - Kolakham (Diary in brief )

20.4.23 -21.4.23  Sealdah>NMZ (New Mal Junction) >Kolakham [Kanchankanya > Car ]

21.4.23  Kolakham > Changey Falls>Lava>Kolakham

22.4.23 Kolakham > NMZ [Car >Kanchankanya  ]

23.4.23 Sealdah

20.4.23 - 21.4.23

After a long time,  Mohua and I (without any group) left for Kolakham alone. We took Kanchankanya at 8.30 am from Sealdah and reached New Mal Junction at 9.30 am next day. The Route from Siliguri Junction (not NJP) to New Mal Junction (NMZ) is the most picturesque route you will ever find in India - it is a marriage between River, dense Forest and Hills. It is probably the only long distance  train, which stops at NMZ (Railway code).

Get In

From NMZ there is no direct bus to Lava (actually Kolakham is a very small village in Neora Valley NP, so no shared jeep goes there). First you have to come to Dam-dim (from NMZ , a toto will charge around Rs 100-150 to reach Damdim) and from Damdim you can take a share jeep to reach Lava. From Lava there is no shared jeep route to Kolakham. You have to reserve a car for Rs 1000 (fixed rate as per Chart) for a 6-7 Km bumpy ride to Kolakham. If you are lucky, you can hitchhike from Lava. Lava falls on the route to Kolakham. A small road at the entry point of Lava, takes you to Kolakham (entry fee to enter Neora Valley NP/Kolakham is Rs 120 per jeep since you are entering Neora Valley Forest).

After considering all this we decided to book a Wagon R for Rs 2200/- from NMZ. The name of the driver is Rajesh Kundu (+91 81580 49888 ). We bought very good Pizza at Pizza Palace (91 77973 11666 )  just beside the bus station of NMZ. Alternately you talk to owner/Manager of the resort Neora Valley Junge Camp.

Call phone (+917797311666)

On the way falls 5 tea gardens (some owned by Goodricke) - it is a good for photo op session ! On the way falls Gorubathan, the only major town, before Lava. We reached Neora Valley Jungle Camp (it is actually very near to Kolakham village) at 1230 hrs , after 2.30 hours journey. The road is very good and wide. I found the route very charming . Neora Valley Jungle Camp is owned by Help Tourism Pvt Ltd. It is surely one of the best resorts in India, at this price (Rs 7000 for two people - with breakfast and dinner), I have ever stayed. The location is amazing. The rooms are unique. There are two balconies in the room. The rooms are huge and having an attached balcony and one of them is covered by Glass in 3 sides , giving you a wonderful chance to enjoy the mighty Himalaya , from your room. All rooms are fitted with a room heater & geyser . Rooms were clean and bathrooms were well maintained. There is no TV in the room. I stayed at Shikra. I think one should stay at Shikra. Sitting in the balcony, sipping smoking hot tea , you can see snowy peaks of the Kanchenjunga, if the the weather is good. contact person is Mr Pal, 96478 24646 .

Kolakham is located in the buffer zone of the Neora Valley National Park. Neora Valley National Park is in Kalimpong subdivision of Darjeeling District (West Bengal). It was established in 1986 and covers around of 88 km² . It is one of the richest biological zones . It is a paradise for Bird Lovers. The lush green pine forest has such luxurious growth that even sunlight do not reach the soil. 

The highest point of the park is Rachela Danda which is around 10,600 ft from Sea level. Much of the park is still inaccessible and for nature lovers & trekkers, this is one of the most adventurous places, as it promises to explore the still-unknown. This village is a retreat from all the bustles of city life.

I quickly had my lunch (Pizza) and left for Kolakham village. The road towards the village induced an inexplicable charm. On the way falls Kalbong Check Post of Forest Deptt. From that Check post you have to take the help of Birding guide Yogen (+91 73849 91850 ) to go to Kalbong village (hair pin bend from the check post) for taking pictures of Bird. But if you are a serious birder then you can take the help of Mani (from Lava) - +91 95472 80019.  I am told he charges Rs 2000 for the whole day. Then there is Joseph who is even more famous. He works in forest deptt. You can talk to Yogen to get his numbered.

Call phone (+919547280019)

I went further upto the Kolakham village and saw many popular home stays like Red Panda Homestay (first home stay of the village), Kolkham Casero etc. Then I came back to the resort. We had early dinner at 8.30 pm. There I met a Professor of Environment Science and learnt that Cryptomaria japonica was planted for paper industry in India by Britishers, which never materialized. But the trees which were planted for economic benefit , like Sagoon, Teak etc killed the bio diversity of forest. In fact Cryptomaria japonica is somewhat like Eucalyptus. I also learnt that the damage to the nature, is not only because of global warming, but it is also man made.

22.4.23

After breakfast Mohua and I walked upto the Kolakham village. After reaching Kolakham, we saw a tourist car going to Changey Falls. They charged us @ Rs 200 x 2 for the journey. One of the major attractions of Kolakham, is the 100 feet waterfall located about 6 kilometres from the village . However, the trail isn’t smooth, some may find it difficult to keep balance while moving downwards to the waterfall. It took around 15 minutes to go down and around 30 minutes go up. 

After returning to base,  we were told the car is going to Lava and we can go there by paying Rs 300 each. So we decided to go to Lava and see the famous Lava monastery. The Lava we saw in 2004 is not recognizable any more. The Lava Monastery is really interesting and very big. Do not forget to go around the monastery. After having lunch in the monastery , we came to back to Kolakham by paying Rs 1000. 

Cardamom plantations are common here and can be seen in the farms of the local people. 

Various species of birds can be seen in the resort itself : Verditer Flycatcher, Rufous Sibia, Scarlet minivet, Green-tailed Sunbird, Fantail to name a few. Later I realized that probably there is no need to go elsewhere for birding. Sitting in the balcony, you can see all the birds.

The rustic life, simple and warm local people, local market and the beautiful village are worth exploring.

I had my dinner early at 8.30 am ,so that I can go for birding tour next day. 

There are 2 options here - a) Kalbong route b) Pipeline route. We were told Pipe-line is too dense and is not good for bird sighting.

22.4.23-23.4.23

I got up at 5.15 am and reached Forest Deptt check post at 6.10 am and went to Kalbong village with Yogen for birding. 

I saw Rufous Sibia, Scarlet minivet, Great Barbet, Verditer Flycatcher. I finally returned my resort at 10.30 am and had my breakfast. 

The check out time is 1100 am. So we checked out of the resort and kept the luggage at the library. Then I again left for birding in the resort and its adjoining area and finally left for NMZ at 2 am. This time the car was arranged by the resort and they charged Rs 3000 (for Innova). On the way to NMZ, we had our lunch and reached the train station in time and the train left at 5.35 pm and reached home right at time, at 8.10 am.

Booking :  Online booking is available in the below link. 

http://www.helptourism.net/neora-valley-jungle-camp.php

You can contact Help tourism office to get your bookings. 

Help Tourism Pvt. Ltd.

Kolkata Office:

67-A, Kali Temple Road, 1st Floor,Sadananda Kuthi, Kalighat

Kolkata - 700026

Tel : +91-33-24550917 / 24549719,Fax : +91-33-24854584

email : siliguri@helptourism.com

Pocket Pinch :  It is Rs. 6000-7000/- for 2 persons with breakfast and dinner. 

Get away

From Kolakham it’s easy to visit several beautiful places as a day tour. Lava, Loleygaon, Rishyap, Charkhole, Rikisum, Pedong etc  are the places which are full of natural beauties along with mighty Kanchenjunga and its neighbouring peaks.

Source :

http://mangoladydiaries.com/kolakham-rustic-respite-and-steep-trail/

http://bestplacesofstay.blogspot.com/2014/05/neora-valley-jungle-camp-kolakham-help.html

Call phone (+917384991850)