Dooars : Jaldapara, Gorumara, Coochbehar - 2023

 Dooars  (Diary in brief )

13.4.23 -14.4.23  Sealdah>NJP>Siliguri>Fulbari>Rhino Inn (Jaldapara National Park - Salkumar Gate)               [  Uttarbanga Express > Car ]

15.4.23  Jaldapara NP> Safari> Chilapata > Kalchini Tea Garden > Raimatang>Hamilton ganj>Hashimara> Jaldapara NP

16.4.23 Jaldapara > Murti>Cooch Behar Rajbari > Cooch Behar Tea Estate> Lataguri (Gorumara)

17.4.23 Lataguri (Gorumara) > Jatraprasad Safari>Chalsa>Matelli Tea Estate >Samsing> Mission Hill > Fagu > Ambiok > Gajoldoba

18.4.23 Sealdah

14.4.23

We (Barun and I) took Uttarbanga Express and reached NJP/ Siliguri at 7.30 am and reached Anindya's house . Our train ticket was confirmed thanks to Mohua. Since Tutuda's ticket was not confirmed, he  reached Siliguri by bus and went to Anindya's home at  9.30 am. The bus journey took 14 hours.The roads are much better now, Tutu da informed us. We left for Jaldapara at 10.30 am. We took Fulbari (Jalpaiguri) route by Anindya's car to reach Rhino Inn (owned by Kalu Chhetri) ,  which is just beside Salkumar Gate of Jaldapara National Park. Not many people book safari at this gate. Madarihat is the popular gate. Now it is possible to book safari online at https://www.wbsfda.org . We reached the resort at 2 pm. We were told our Elephant safari has been cancelled due to strike called by the Mahout. One of them was killed  (by the elephant) on duty and was denied the compensation of Rs 15 lakh ! They earn only 8500 per month. For the first time in my life, I supported the strike !

After having our lunch,  I opted for 4-5.30 pm slot for safari. Since there was one vacant slot in one car , I managed to do the safari. While rest of our group could not manage it. I paid Rs 600 for the Safari. Actually the rates are like this : Rs 350 for the guide charge. Rs 187 per head as entry fee/permit and car hiring charges are Rs 1500. The area is around 216 sq Km, but only 6 Km is allowed to the tourists. 

You will have to get down at 3 watch towers :  Hollong (which is not a watch tower actually), Harin-danga (non operational) and Jaldapara watch tower. So out of 3 watch towers, 1 is not operational. So unlike other famous National forests you have to get down at certain points ! 

There are 4 safaris in a day @ 1.30 hours each !  There is no zone. There is only a fixed route ! This is completely ridiculous.

We paid Rs 1200 for the room for 2 people in Rhino Inn. The food is extra @ Rs 600 per day. The food is really good. The owner Kalu Chhetri is a Nepali, but speaks perfect Bengali. He booked elephant safari for us. We made the payment by G-pay to him and sent him the PAN Card. He did the Elephant safari booking for us. His number is +91 97331 05135 and +91 97334 48204. Call phone (+919733448204). He is the ideal person to do the booking for Elephant safari from this gate. He is known to all the forest department staffs.

He said it will take some time to get the refund, since the elephant safari has been cancelled. Interestingly Victoria aka Sampa (Ranju Kaku's daughter) is also staying at the same hotel. She is now teaching in a Coochbehar College. She told me she will be soon transferred to Chandan Nagar. They have also come here for a safari.

15.4.23

Today we did the morning Safari at 5.30 am - 7 am. We made the payment yesterday. Kalu da has been great help while booking the jeep safari off line. Everybody knows him.Since we were very apprehensive about the Jeep Safari (rightly), we did not book any safari online.  His resort is jest beside the Safari booking counter. 

We saw Rhino, Gaur, Red breasted Parakeet, Green Imperial Pigeon, Yellow footed Green Pigeon,Barking deer,Sambhar and peacock. The guide told us, they have been last trained in the year 2016 and he has no knowledge of birds ! He shouted "Sambhar-Sambhar" on sighting a Sambhar in the same vein, when a guide in Ranthambhore would have shouted on sighting a tiger !!

After breakfast we left for Raimatang. To reach Raimatang we took the route of Chilapata forest. On the way we saw Kalchini Tea Garden. We had lunch before reaching Raimatang. To reach Raimatang you have to travel on the dry river bed for some time. After reaching Raimatang we trekked till the river bed. There is a wonderful homestay there. After spending some time we returned back to our resort. 

On the way back, we saw Hamiltonganj (where Tutu da bought Insect repellant) and Hashimara Air Force base.

You can write/email to DFO of Jaldapara at http://jaldaparanationalpark.org/dfo-jaldapara/ for any complain.

16.4.23

Today we checked out of our hotel and left for Cooch Behar Palace/Rajbari. 

The Rajbari was constructed in the year 1887. It was really impressive. Inspired from the Western Renaissance period, Cooch Behar Palace is a unique blend of European and Indian architecture.Maharaja Nripendra Narayan created the Cooch Behar Palace in 1887. Inside the Palace is quite impressive too, it is straight out of Vatican ! It is one of the architectural masterpieces, that displays the regal era of the Koch Dynasty in India. It was part of Ahom kingdom. It is apparently the first planned city. The city centre is Sagardighi Lake. The  houses around the lake are quite impressive.

Then we left for Lataguri. On the way to Lataguri we saw Cooch Behar Tea Estate. We saw the plucking by the woman workers. In fact we also saw the tea leaves were weighed and dumped into a pick up truck. We learnt that they get Rs 232/250 per day of work. They also get Ration. They have 1 day leave per week. They are paid after 15 days. Most of them were wearing "gloves" .

We reached our resort Camping de Dooars at 5.30 pm. We paid only Rs 1200 + GST per day for 2 person. The food is extra. It is one of the most impressive budget hotels I have seen in India. I booked it online from goibibo. It is owned by a lady from Siliguri.

17.4.23

We did our safari in the morning to Jatraprasad watch tower. We were told Chuk chuki watch tower is not functional ! The charges are similar to Jaldapara National Park. Anindya did not join us for the safari.

After breakfast we left for Chalsa and took the route of Chalsa (we passed by famous Sinclairs Hotel) >Matelli Tea Estate >Samsing> Mission Hill>Fagu>Ambiok Tea Estate   via Gorubathan and finally came back to Siliguri via Gajoldoba. We had some photo session at Ambiok. We had tea at Gajoldoba. We saw the impressive Bhorer Alo nearby.

But we missed the train and came back by combination of Bus and Train. We got down from the bus at Baharampur at 6 am and took an auto rickshaw to reach Baharampur Train Station and finally took Bhagirathi Express train at 6.38 am to reach Sealdah at 10.40 am.

• SALKUMAR GATE CAR SAFARI

Dooars - er duarey (Eastern part)

Abar Aranye - Dooars- er Duarey - Dooars tour (Eastern side) - Chilapata-Sikijhori-Buxa-Jayanti-Jaldapara  - in brief 

https://goo.gl/maps/8Kqg6HvadLDCBN5t6

22/1/2016

Day 1 

By Kanchankanya from Sealdah at 8.30 pm.

Team members: Sourabh, Debasree and her son, Barun and family of 3, Subirda and family of 3, Arindam and family of 3 and Arun.

Orientation

The Western part of Teesta is called Terai region and Eastern Part of Teesta river is called Dooars. Dooars can be roughly divided into parts - Western Part consists of Murti,Khunia, Chapramari, Suntalekhola, Jhalong, Bindu, Gorumara. You can go to this place either by car or bus or by train. If you come by train (Kanchankanya - you have to get down at Mal junction). For animal sighting you should only go to Gorumara only.

We went to the Eastern part (get down at Hasimara - this is also the place to go to Bhutan - Bhutan border Jaigaon is only 30 minutes from here - you don't need passport to go to Bhutan.) of Dooars. In the Eastern part you will find Chilapata,Jaldapara, Jayanti and Buxa (Rajabhatkhawa).

23/1/16

Day 2 - Chilapata

Got down in the morning at Hashimara (scheduled stop ; Madarihat - non Scheduled stop, but nearer to Jaldapara) . From Hasimara, Jaigaon - Indian side of Bhutan border - is only 30 minutes by auto and popular entry point.

Distance from station to Medabari Eco resort (Chilapata) – 20 Km –@ 600/- per sumo/Bolero + one Maruti Omni. We are 12.5 people ! total amount paid is Rs 1200/-. Reached hotel at 1.30 pm- 2 hrs late !

Tips : Can hire an auto and reserve it for a much lesser rate from the station @ Rs 150-200/- we have been told

(At chilapata one can move around tribal village - hire jeep at 1 pm - Rs 1000 for 3 hours )

Evening safari in Chilapata by 6 seater jeep 

Quite disappointing - hardly any sighting . Elephant seen on the main road (which is not strictly a core forest area) - which leads to Jaigaon - Indian side of Bhutan border ( Phuntsholing - is Bhutan side of the border)

Animal Sighting - 2/100 - few birds and elephant

Jeep - 30/100

Resort - 30/100
Forest flora and fauna - 80/100

6 person can somehow seat in the jeep. For photographers maximum should be 4 per jeep.

# Evening safari ...1810/- jungle safari car rate – for 6 person (car entry fee Rs 250 + Guide 200/- + per person entry fee 60/- + car hire Rs 1000 )

MUST BRING NO. OF PHOTOCOPIES OF PAN CARD - FOR EVERY ENTRY AT RESERVE FOREST YOU NEED IT.

# safari in a separate car (personal or Tourist car from outside not allowed - you have to hire it exclusively from Forest Deptt - unlike, say, Masai Mara )

Hidden deep inside the Chilapata Forests the ruins of a thousand years old fort of Nal King has a tremendous historical and archeological importance. A trip through the deep and dark Chilapata Forest is a pleasant and exciting experience. 

Built in the 5th century during the Gupta Empire the ruins still recall the memories of the Golden Age of India.

# Contact no for tourist cars outside :

i. Nitu bhattacharya – Buxa based (can provide car from Chilapata) 9733 41 08 24

ii. Thapa for car - Jayanti based 8509 47 25 73

iii. Mithun das (9735 02 87 33 - Relax Lodge - Madarihat based - 24 Km) - he provided our car

iv. Sanjay at the resort - Chilapata based.

a. Rates for dry car 1200/- or 1500/- (fuel @ 10 km per litre for minimum 3 days)

b. 2600/- all inclusive - We paid Rs 2600 for whole day - 7.30 am to 7 pm.

c. point to point - varies

# Night halt at Chilapata forest, Cooch Behar, West Bengal, India - at Mendipara Forest Resort @ RS 1500/- ( with commode shower - very basic room - not highly recommended at this price - should negotiate the price) + Food Rs 400/- per person per day

24/1/16

Day 3 - Chilapta - Sikijhora - Rajabhatkhawa-Buxa-Jayanti-Chilapata

Morning - left at 8.40 am for Sikiajhora (Amazon cruize of Dooars) - only for 40 minutes [20 minutes one side and 20 minutes back- same route] @ Rs 50 per head. Only one boat at the moment. can be contacted at 96 79 408438 (Paresh) to hold the boat till you reach !

Experience - 75/100

Tip: if you pay more then apparently they will go further

Rajabhatkhawa (65 Km) for entry ticket of Buxa and Jayanti - Rajabhatkhawa Museum (worth visiting)  

Buxa Santalbari (had lunch - Momo @ Rs 20 for 8) - Trekking for 20 minutes only (out of 2 hours of trek time) - Experience - 35/100

Choto mahakal (through Jayanti river) - the car will follow the route of river. Not Possible during rainy season....not for unfit people

Experience - 85/100

Chunia Jhora Tea Garden - owned by Mcleod Russel

Experience - 75/100

Chuniya watch tower ( evening safari at Jayanti ) - 

Experience - 20/100

# Raydak forest bunglow, Pokri lake, Bird watch Tower could not make it due to lack of time

Came back in the evening at Chilapata at 7 pm.

25/1/16

Day 4 - Chilapata - Jaldapara

# Morning safari at Chilapata 

Animal Sighting - 0/100 - No sighting at all !!

Then left for Madarihat at 11 am (24 Km) at Rs 900 per Sumo - over priced. On the way we saw an elephant.

Reached Jaldapara Stayam Lodge (@ Rs 800- with commode shower) at 12 pm. - just in front of Forest gate / ticket counter/ Madarihat lodge of WB Govt. 

# Evening safari - no tour left.

We opted for alternative trolley line @ Rs 1840 for 6 person (not highly recommended)

Animal sighting - 5/100 - seen a bison and few birds

# Just after the safari we stood in the line from 5 pm for next day safari at 6 am, 8 am, 1 pm and 3 pm. counter opens at 6 pm. So much for the tourist ! - Jungle safari car rate – for 6 person (car entry fee Rs 250 + Guide 200/- + per person entry fee 60/- + car hire Rs 800 )

No online booking like other states, say Tadoba at Maharashtra, where we are going in April 2016. 

We somehow managed to book the morning safari at 8 am. But in spite of valiant effort of Arun and almost fighting with some person missed the pricey elephant tour @ Rs 850 per person approx. What a way to promote tourism in WB !

## In the evening we had our snacks at WB Govt owned Madarihat tourist lodge and even had our dinner at the tourist lodge - Mixed fried rice @ Rs 150/- is good - considering the place you are in. We even walked inside the lawn ! Outsiders are allowed inside the dining room.

1. Hollong (inside the Jaldapara forest - very difficult to get. Booking open 120 days before stay date - you have to book 120 days in advance when it opens.) - highly recommended - salt pit just in front of resort) or 

2.Madarihat Bungalow (at the Gate of Jaldapara Forest ) - No question of sighting from resort - may opt for any other resort, if budget is a constraint - though very nicely maintained

3. http://www.hotelroyalgreendooars.com/ Bivash roy 9933160106 and 9733 000 440 

4. Jaldapara Jungle Camp - help tourism 1200/- and 1600/- for booking - 67A kali temple road ,Kolkata -9733 000 442 

26/1/16

Day 5 - Jaldapara

# Morning safari at jaldapara. Highly recommended. 

Good sighting - 30/100 by Indian standard - seen 3-4 Rhino, few deer, 2-3 elephants, 8-10 peacock, few monkey, few bison

Left for train station at Hasimara at 3.45 pm to catch Kanchankanya at 4.45 pm. - @ 200-300/- for Toto or Rs 350-400/- for Sumo - 10 Km from our hotel/reserve forest main entry gate.

# Totopara (30 km from Jaldapara). A small village on the banks of River Torsha bordering Bhutan is the only habitation of Toto, a primitive tribe in the Dooars. 

Their number has dwindled to less than 1000. Could not go for lack of time.

Blog http://ourcanvas.blogspot.in/2010/11/dooars.html

Overall

Dooars is a shame, when you compare it with other reserve forests in India - in every possible way- be it mismanagement of booking safari, safari car quality, animal density, resort quality. There is no need to look at Doors with frosted glass and romanticizing about it. Somebody needs to bell the cat. There is also pathetic animal density to say the least. e.g. In Tadoba you can book safari sitting in Kolkata for April 2016 in January 2016 - which I did. What is going on in the name of elephant ride is nothing short of a scam.

Probably the only bright spot is Jaldapara and a resort at Jaldapara Rhino Cottage (+91 94 34 607825 - Aloke Guha) at Jaldapara beside Sishamara river where you can see animals from the resort (near Shalkumar, Falakata) !

NB: Make no mistake - we enjoyed a lot , over all !!