Showing posts with label Travel (F) - Cambodia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travel (F) - Cambodia. Show all posts

Sunday, May 15, 2011

Tour to Cambodia - Siem Reap


15/05/2011


Getting there:  Fly to Bangkok/Singapore/KL and change for Siem Reap Or There’s bus from Bangkok, and you can pick up a visa at the border.
Staying there: Accommodation to suit all budgets is available vary between $8 and $300.
Best time to visit: November to February.


We left for Siem Reap from Singapore at 2.50 pm by JetStar (no connection with our Jet in India). We reached Cambodia at 4 pm. We paid 20 USD as visa on arrival. It was really fast and efficient and my suggestion is there is no need to do Visa from India. Everything is super easy and fast. The Siem Reap Airport is small but quite nice. After coming out from the immigration our tuk-tuk was waiting outside the airport. When we reached the hotel it was almost dark. On the way we could see the Khmer architecture (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khmer_architecture) - which somewhat looks like a cobra (with fana).

We fell instantly in love with Siem Reap. The town’s clean, empty roads lined with French-style houses, its warm people — was a balm for my nerves.




It is one of the best hotels I have stayed at this price. The moment we entered we were given wet wash. There is free internet, free tea/coffee and free bike/bi-cycle. There is free breakfast too. How much we paid? Less than 20 USD!




I withdrew some money from an ATM (with my Axis Bank Travel card) and was charged 4 USD!

After taking some rest we went to pub street or night market by a tuk-tuk (2 USD) to have our dinner. I was taken aback by the place and alleys around that place. It was real class. If I just take the picture and post it somewhere - it is difficult to tell it is one of the poorest countries in the world. The roads are also quite well maintained. The city thrives on tourism. India should learn from them. The roads are closed along the pub street after it is dark. Didi and Baba had their dinner at a beautiful “Temple Club Restaurant” while watching the Apsara/ Ramayana dance.




I had it from a place recommended by LP. We saw fish massage on the footpath of Pub Street. We saw some Indian restaurants too.

Tourism is the lifeblood of Siem Reap. The name Siem Reap means ‘Siamese Defeated’, hardly the most tactful name for a major city near Thailand: and refers to the centuries-old conflict between the Siamese and Khmer peoples. Imagine Birmingham with the name ‘Germany Defeated’. The empire of Angkor once included much of modern-day Thailand, but there’s a touch of irony about the name, given that Thailand ultimately defeated Cambodia and controlled Siem Reap and Angkor from 1794 to 1907.

Siem Reap was little more than a village when French explorers discovered Angkor in the 19th century. With the return of Angkor to Cambodian, or should that be French, control in 1907, Siem Reap began to grow, absorbing the first wave of tourists and the temples of Angkor remained one of Asia’s leading draws until the late 1960s, luring visitors including Charlie Chaplin and Jackie Kennedy. With the advent of war and the Khmer Rouge, Siem Reap entered a long slumber from which it only began to awake in the mid-1990s.

16/05/2011

In the morning we had a sumptuous breakfast (free) in the hotel. I think there were at least 20 different items in it.



Our Tuk Tuk driver came in the morning to start the tour.




Passes are required to enter the Angkor area. They are on sale at the front gate -Apsara Authority counters for 1-day ($20), 3-day ($40), or 7-day ($60) intervals. The 3-day pass is valid for any 3 days within a week, while the 7-day pass is valid for any 7 days within a month. Cambodians can enter for free — you shouldn't need to buy a pass for your guide or your driver. You will have a photograph taken and printed on your pass to make sure they are non-transferable! Regular checks for the pass are performed at almost all sites within the park, so carry your pass with you at all times. We bought the 3 day pass. We entered through the normal south gate.

Bicycles are another option, though you will spend more time getting from place to place. They are probably best for visitors planning for several days. Bring sun screen, a good hat, lot of water and a scarf to keep the sun off your neck. The rental is around US$1-2 per day for a decent bicycle. We saw many foreigners doing that. But Tuk-tuk is definitely the best option.





Angkor Archaeological Park, located in northern Cambodia, is one of the most important archaeological sites in Southeast Asia. It is located about 20 minutes to the north, by car from central Siem Reap. I wonder if it should be called a temple or a city, because a temple is definitely an understatement.

Stretching over some 400 square kilometers, including forested area, Angkor Archaeological Park contains the magnificent remains of capitals of the Khmer Empire of the 9th to the 15th centuries, including the largest pre-industrial city in the world. The most famous are the Temple of Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, and the Bayon Temple with its countless sculptural decorations. Angkor Archaeological Park was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1992. But Angkor Wat is not the only draw as Siem Reap is dotted with other exotic temples built during, before and after the Angkor period — the remnants of a spectacularly rich culture.

Angkor is the scene of one of the greatest vanishing acts of all time. The Khmer kingdom lasted from the ninth to the 15th centuries, and at its height dominated a wide swath of Southeast Asia, from Myanmar (Burma) in the west to Vietnam in the east.

The temples can broadly be categorized into 4/5 groups:

  • Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom, the grandest temple of all and the ancient capital next to it
  • Little Circuit , taking in major sites to the east of Angkor Thom
  • Big Circuit (Le Grand Circuit), taking in major sites north and further out east
  • Roluos group, 15 km east from Siem Reap along National Highway 6
  • Outlying temples, located over 20 km from Angkor Wat
         http://angkor-net


Angkor Wat

Our first stop was Angkor Wat. Though 'Wat' is the Khmer (Cambodian) word for temple. Scholars believe that the architecture and sculptures are that of a temple where Lord Vishnu was worshipped but it was also built as a mausoleum for the king after his death. Built around the first half of 12th century by King Surya-varman II, the temple's balance, composition and beauty make it one of the finest monuments in the world. The temples of Angkor are highly symbolic structures. The temple is built as a representation of the mythical Mount Meru: this is why so many temples, including Angkor Wat itself, are surrounded by moats - broad ditch, either dry or filled with water, which surrounds the temple. 


As you tour the temples, you will see certain mythical figures and other motifs or a dominant idea or central theme cropping up repeatedly. They are Apsara, Kala and Naga. If you go to Tamilnadu the commonest name is Narasimha or Venkataswara (or for that matter Ma Kali in West Bengal). You will find Ma Kali boarding,Ma Kali Stores, Ma Kali transport. Similarly in Cambodia replace Ma Kali with Apsara!





After passing by the moat, we reached the starting point of the famous bas reliefs depicting scenes from various Hindu mythological stories and historic events. Walking from left to right you will come across scenes from battle of Ramayana, battle of Mahabharata, army of Surya-varman II, scenes from judgment by Yama (the supreme judge), churning of ocean by demons and gods to get Amrita or Amrito — the nectar of immortality, Vishnu's victory over demons, victory of Krishna over Bana and other scenes of battle between gods and demons, procession of people going to heaven and hell. 










Then we climbed the steps to reach the second tier and looked around the place. Then I climbed the steep steps to reach the third tier and the central courtyard. It has now been fitted with a handrail — particularly useful when descending. Although Didi and I climbed the steps, Baba did not climb the steps. Once you get there, the whole complex can be viewed very nicely.


While early Angkor temples were built as Hindu temples, Jaya-varman VII converted to Mahayana Buddhism AD. 1200 and embarked on a prodigious building spree, building the new capital city of Angkor Thom including Bayon, Ta Prohm, Preah Khan and many more as Buddhist structures.

However, his successor Jaya-varman VIII returned to Hinduism and embarked on an equally massive spree of destruction, systematically defacing Buddhist images and even crudely altering some to be Hindu again. Hinduism eventually lost out to Buddhism again, but the (few) Buddha images in the temples today are later Theravada additions.


Angkor Thom


Our next stop is near by Angkor Thom. It (literally: "Great City"), was the last and most enduring capital city of the Khmer empire. It was established in the late twelfth century by king Jaya-varman VII. At the centre of the city is Jaya-varman's state temple, the Bayon.

The stunning Bayon Temple, built in the late 12th or early 13th century by King Jaya-varman VII. Each of the 54 stone towers of Bayon is carved with four massive faces of the smiling Buddha. Some even have a third eye like Lord Shiva. It was humbling just to stand there, looking up at the giant smiling heads as dusk slowly spread its wings. The stone faces of Bayon are among Cambodia’s most recognizable images. They are a must-see for anyone visiting the Angkor temples. Didi and Baba did not go to the 1st floor to see more of those faces. But I must say the condition of the temple is not quite good. It reminds me of India.










Baphuon: Located to the northwest of the Bayon, the Baphuon is supposed to represent Mount Meru (sacred to Hinduism), and was one of the largest and grandest structures in Angkor. Built into the western face of the Baphuon is a giant reclining Buddha, added in the 16th century after the region converted from Hinduism to Buddhism. It is under renovation. After we left, King Norodom Sihamoni of Cambodia and Prime Minister Francois Fillon of France were among those who first toured the renovated temple during the inauguration ceremony on July 3, 2011.



Other Angkor Thom sights: The Bayon and Baphuon temples form only part of what was formerly the giant city of Angkor Thom, once thought to hold a population of one million. In addition to the Bayon and Baphuon temples, the ancient city of Angkor Thom holds a number of other sites of interest:

  • The Elephant Terrace - we got down from our auto to see it and went on to the platform
  • The Terrace of the Leper King                            - do-                                                              
  • Five entrance gates, one at each ordinal compass point and the Victory Gate in the east wall. The western and the northern gate are free from tourists, and climatic. Each of the gates is topped by the face of Avalokit-esvara (is a bodhisattva who embodies the compassion of all Buddhas. He is one of the more widely revered bodhisattvas in mainstream Mahayana Buddhism).


Though Ta Keo was part of our plan next, we skipped it for the time being as we were hungry and it was also very hot. Architecturally, Ta Keo is a temple-mountain, symbolizing Mt. Meru, with five towers in quincunx (A temple plan or arrangement) that has five towers arranged in an "X," as at Angkor Wat. (http://www.art-and-archaeology.com/seasia/sikhoraphum/sk01.html)


Little Circuit


We went to an Indian restaurant “Curry wala “(Didi wanted to try an Indian dish after a long time!) to have our lunch. I paid 6.25 USD to have one Nan (really it was Tandoori Roti) and half (shared with Baba) chicken butter masala. The food was very bad and very pricey (it was not even AC - like Bachchan Singh Dhaba of Rashbehari More- without any customer except us!)and the person selling was a Punjabi. I decided not to have any Indian food in Cambodia anymore. We paid more than Rs 900 which would have cost maximum Rs 200/250 in India.


After having lunch we went for next temple Ta Prohm Temple. Built during the time of king Jaya-varman VII and is best known as the temple where trees have been left intertwined with the stonework, much as it was uncovered from the jungle. There is a strange beauty in the marvelous strangler fig trees which provide a stunning display of the embrace between nature and the human handiwork.


This is one of the most popular temples after Angkor Wat and the Bayon because of the beautiful combinations of wood and stone. Black and white film photographers especially love this site because of this and most of the stunning postcard shots of Angkor's trees come from here. This is where Angelina Jolie famously shot Lara Croft: Tomb Raider. The forest has almost engulfed the 12th-century Buddhist monastery with gigantic trees growing along and into its walls — so much so that pulling down one would destroy the other.





Note that large sections of the temple are unstable rubble and have been cordoned off, as they are in real danger of collapse. As of 2010, authorities have started to restore Ta Prohm. We saw a sign board - which says that Indian Govt. is co-operating with Cambodian govt. to restore it. Wherever we went (to see the temple) we saw young girls selling goods in perfect American Accent “Hello Madam....2 dollar madam.....okay okay.....while coming back you can buy....”...Problem starts when you start talking to them, since those are the few words they know. One interesting thing since the local currency has been changed number of times the local currency simply does not exist. They will consider 1 USD = 4000 Riel. They will return the small changes in local currency. I bought some good quality Tee shirt @ 75/- with Angkor Wat as theme as a souvenir and some key rings too.


You will also see people playing musical instruments and asking for alms. Almost all of them claim to be war victims and some of them have their leg amputated. The music is very nice and haunting and remains a lasting memory for me.



After this we were tired and came back to our hotel and relaxed for some time and had dinner from one of the stalls on the footpath. I paid around for 1.25 USD - which was much cheaper than the restaurants. in the evening we went to the pub street to have our dinner. The Siem Reap River flows through the town and you can hang out in the numerous small cafés around the bustling Old Market. The market itself sells everything from clothes to veggies and fish. A Siem Reap is a great place to chill in. We went to the market to buy some staff. But I must say quality and artistry of staff in Bali is far better. While coming back to our hotel I walked all the way to our hotel - for a 15 minute pleasant walk to our hotel in Wat Bo Street. The Tuk Tuk will charge either 1 USD or 2 USD depending upon your bargaining skill.


17/05/2011




Big Circuit

Today our first temple as per plan is Ta Som. Ta Som is a small temple at Angkor, Cambodia, built at the end of the 12th century for King Jaya-varman VII. It is located north east of Angkor Thom and just east of Neak Pean. The King dedicated the temple to his father Dhara-nindra-varman II who was King of the Khmer Empire from 1150 to 1160.


Next one was Neak Pean - it is a tiny temple built during the reign of King Jaya-varman VII. The King ordered the construction of a vast baray (reservoir) east of Preah Khan temple to provide water to its hundred-thousand support workers. Stretching a half kilometer by 900 meters, the artificial lake stored millions of cubic meters of water to irrigate the rice fields during the dry season. Neak Pean sits at the center of the reservoir. It is surrounded by four smaller ponds, which were in turn surrounded by eight other ponds. At the very center of the complex was a tiny island with a single tower made of sandstone. Some historians believe that Neak Pean represents Anavatapta, a mythical lake in the Himalayas whose waters are thought to cure all illness.


Today we had some great lunch at “Easy Speaking Restaurant” at Pub Street. - Khmer Barbeque consisting of 5 types of meats - kangaroo, snake, frog for around 14.75 USD for three of us. The meat was bit rubbery, but if you are not old you won’t understand what you are eating! But it was a memorable experience. Baba could not eat most of it since he found it rubbery and found it difficult to crush and chew. There is scope to learn Khmer cuisine from many restaurants (“Temple Club Restaurant”) for approx 10 USD. After that left for Preah Khan. It was Jaya-varman VII's first capital, before the completion of Angkor Wat. Large and atmospheric, yet somewhat overshadowed by Angkor Wat and Ta Prohm, this temple is partly in disrepair with strangler figs crawling up the walls, but has some excellent carvings and fewer visitors, and is well worth a visit. The temple is some 3 kilometers north of Angkor Thom.




Frog !

Then we left for floating village - Tonle Sap Lake Floating Village: Chong Kneas. Though Kampong Phluk Floating Village, (off the Highway to Phnom Penh) is much more authentic 'floating village experience' than the one close to the Tonlé Sap ferry harbour, we had to opt for the nearer one. The combined lake and river system, uniquely, flows in the reverse direction during the rainy season — that is, upstream instead of into the Mekong. Mangrove trees line the water channels that wind through floating villages to fall into the gigantic lake. The villages themselves have been here for centuries. Fishing is predictably the main occupation here.


We paid $15 per head for a boat ride. It was booked for exclusively for us. The experience was rather exciting actually. Chong Kneas is a floating village at the edge of the Tonle Sap Lake. This is where the boat docks if you’re arriving from Battambang or Phnom Penh. It’s about 20 – 30 minutes from the center of Siem Reap. On the way to the floating village itself, you’ll see large paddy fields and stilted houses (some of them double-storied ones coming with pigsties!) on both sides of the road. You’ll also pass by Phnom Krom hill which has an ancient temple at the top.

The floating village

As soon as you enter the village, you’ll see rows of tourist boats docked closely together. You’ll also start smelling that fishy smell that seems to be present with river villages. One look at the water and you realize that it’s not even remotely clean. But such is life. People in the village still use it for washing and bathing.

The floating village is rather small. After about 20 minutes of going slowly on the boat, you’ll reach the large Tonle Sap Lake. On the way there, however, you’ll see many interesting sights. We even saw a school. The water level wasn’t that high yet. At the end we got down at a crocodile farm in the middle.

The crocodile farms

This farm is probably the ‘highlight’ of the Chong Kneas visit (other than the village and the lake itself). The fish farm is a catfish farm and visitors have the chance to feed them. When we came, the fish weren’t that excited about the food that we threw in. I suppose they were already full of food thrown in by previous visitors.

There is a crocodile farm with numerous crocodile’s right next to the fish farm. Most of them hide, but you can still see some of them clearly, whether they’re sleeping or yawning.

The rooftop

You can also go to the 2nd and 3rd story of the farm for a great view overlooking the floating village and Tonle Sap Lake. It looks like there’s another outlook point not far from the farm and it must be another tourist spot, but I’m not sure if they have a crocodile or fish farm as well. From the rooftop, you can see how big the lake really is. It's so huge, that even though it really is a lake, it looks more like a muddy colored ocean. We spent some time over there. It’s great to spend some time here. You can see everything from the top; the lake, the hill, the boats, the people. Definitely a good place for taking pictures.























It was time to return back to the shore. The water at this point of time is not deep and sometimes bamboos are used to move forward the boat - just like the way people do it in Sundarban - West Bengal. When we reached we bought a plate with our picture of us boarding the boat! They do it super efficiently. They take the picture, print it, paste in a short time of little more than 1 .20 hour and when you reach the shore you see the children standing there with your picture! When we reached the sun is already set.

After taking some rest at the hotel we left for dinner at the pub street. We had dinner at “Khmer Kitchen”.


18/05/2011

Outlying temples

We started the day with a tour to Kbal Spean. Its an Angkorian era archaeological site on the southwest slopes of the Kulen Hills to the northeast of Angkor in Siem Reap District... It is situated along a 50 metres (160 ft) stretch of the Stung Kbal Spean River, 25 kilometres from the mainAngkor group of monuments.

The site consists of a series of stone carvings in sandstone formations carved in the river bed and banks. It is commonly known as the "Valley of a 1000 Lingams" or "The River of a Thousand Lingams". The motifs for stone carvings are mainly myriads of lingams (of Shiva), depicted as neatly arranged bumps that cover the surface of sandstone bed rock, and lingam-yoni designs. There are also various Hindu mythological motifs, including depictions of the gods Shiva, Vishnu,Brahma, Lakshmi, Rama, and Hanuman, as well as animals (cows and frogs).


Walking all the way up was quite a feat and we had to stop number of times (but nothing compared of Ijen crater). It was a deep forest and we could see hordes of different colours and varieties of butterfly. Surprising there were very few tourists! Baba waited for us at the base of the hill. After coming back it was lunch time and we had to take lunch at the restaurants at the base of hill. We have never been ripped off like this in our life. One bread and jam was 5 USD. It is more expensive than 5 star hotel. Since there are not restaurants nearby - they are charging whatever they feel like. I did not eat anything in protest.

Next was Banteay Srei, a small 10th century temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. Interestingly, Garuda, Hanuman and Narasimha — all associated with the worship of Vishnu rather than Shiva — flanked the courtyard leading to the main shrine. It lies near the hill of Phnom Dei, 25 km north-east of the main group of temples that once belonged to the medieval capitals of Yasodhara-pura and Angkor Thom. Banteay Srei is built largely of red sandstone, a medium that lends itself to the elaborate decorative wall carvings which are still observable today. the carvings on this temple are exquisite. The buildings themselves are miniature in scale, unusually so when measured by the standards of Angkorian construction. These factors have made the temple extremely popular with tourists, and have led to its being widely praised as a "precious gem", or the "jewel of Khmer art." It reminded me of Bishnupur Terracotta temples of West Bengal. I bought a book of Angkor temples for Didi for 5 USD from a vendor selling books here.








Then we went to see Roluos group of temples. The ruins here are from the ancient capital of Harihar-alaya, dating from the late 9th century and thus predating Angkor itself.



  • Bakong. A five-terraced pyramid in the mountain-temple style.
  • Lolei. An island temple constructed in a baray, now dry.
  • Preah Ko. The first temple to be built here, dating from the 9th century.



They can be avoided, since they are simply no match for later day temples. By the time we see Roluos group of temples we had an overdose of temples. After taking some rest at the hotel (in fact I had my lunch near my hotel - I had chicken amok which was nothing great), we went for watching sunset from Phnom Bakheng. Suvuth took us to the spot.


The first temple-mountain constructed in Angkor, with a commanding hilltop location. Extremely popular (and crowded) spot for sunsets. The final climb to the top of the temple is steep and dangerous at dark. Didi went up and reached well within time, but by that time it was full of tourists. The view from the top is quite stunning. Elephants will carry you to the hilltop for $20 per person (as of 2008-11-08), but you still have to climb the temple stairs on your own. Note that the sun does not set over Angkor if seen from here, and any visible temples are in fact quite far away. Also note that you are NOT allowed to climb Phnom Bakheng after 17.30 - hence make sure you arrive earlier.







We did not go to see the Apsara Theatre, which promised traditional Khmer and folk dances/Apsara dance. The dancers, personifying the apsaras and demons, created magic with the lilting music and graceful movements. The reason being it is quite expensive and we have already seen the best dance at Bali. After having my dinner, I went to the Angkor night market (a shopper’s paradise if you can bargain hard). At the end of Angkor night market there is another night market called noon night market.


19/05/2011

Today we left from our hotel with Suvuth little early to see some nearby temple - Wat Preah Prom Rath, on the way to Pub Street - the glittering modern temple grounds gives a few hints to its 500 year history and then went to see THE LANDMINE MUSEUM.








This tiny museum was set up by local de-miner Aki Ra to educate locals and tourists about the dangers of land mines. Piles of defused mines and UXO lie around the site and the guides are mostly teenagers who were orphaned or injured by mines, many of whom live onsite. The museum moved in 2007.


Any visitor to Cambodia will know of the country's tortured and tragic modern history and how the country suffered from the Khmer Rouge and the 2nd Indochina war, better known as the war in Vietnam. This is a very worthwhile attraction that brings home the scale of the problem and shows you a slice of real Cambodia. During that period Cambodia become the world's most land mined country. On your visits to the temples you will likely come across Khmer musicians who are missing limbs as the result of landmine accidents. On the road to the Banteay Srei temple and near to the Angkor Butterfly Center, you will find the Cambodian Landmine Museum. This small museum is well worth a visit to deepen your understanding of the country's recent history.


Aki Ra, a former Child Soldier for the Khmer Rouge, founded the Cambodia Landmine Museum in 1997. He set up the museum in his home and began by displaying his own collection of decommissioned mines, bombs and other explosive remnants of war that he himself had cleared.He was probably born in 1970. His parents were killed by the Khmer Rouge. Aki Ra fought for the Khmer Rouge until 1983 when he was captured by the Vietnamese. He was conscripted into the Vietnamese army on threat of his life while still a boy.
He later served with the Cambodian army as a teenager and still later received landmine clearance training with the United Nations.Tourists began hearing stories about a young Khmer man who cleared landmines with a stick and had a house full of defused ordinance.
Aki Ra began charging a US$ 3 to see his collection, using the money to help further his activities. Thus began the Cambodia Landmine Museum. The first child Aki Ra brought home was a 9-year old boy who had lost his leg to a landmine and was living on the street. His wife Hourt had no idea Aki Ra would be returning with the little boy, but when he returned home she took the child to her family and said "Look, now I have a son". In July of 2010 Aki Ra was selected as a CNN Hero. In September he was chosen as a Top 10 CNN Hero for 2010. His story can be seen at :





Dotted as it is with luxury resorts and spa dens, it’s difficult to imagine the carnage that the Pol Pot regime (1975-79) once unleashed on Cambodia. innumerable people were killed and buried during the regime, and the handicapped trying to reconstruct their lives. The movie Killing Fields was based on it.

In Phnom Penh, the national capital which had once been reduced to a ghost town by the Khmer Rouge, memories of those dark years have been preserved at museums such as the Tuol Sleng, a schoolhouse - turned - detention centre, and the Choueng Ek Genocide Museum.

Savuth was insisting us to visit his village and sharing a meal and/or visiting his childrens' rural primary school. Many drivers and guides are often willing to give you a glimpse into how they and their families live. We skipped it for lack of time. But we went to see a local market of Siem Reap.


Today we had our sumptuous lunch at “Temple Club Restaurant”. It was time for us to bid adieu Kampuchea/Cambodia. Unlike Bali or Java people here are much better - we felt and do not try to rip off travelers. We paid Suvuth less than 150 USD for all his service with tips.


Since we did not take airport pickup from our hotel (since it was done by Suvuth), we negotiated with our hotel owner for airport drop and he willingly did it. In fact the hotel owner himself dropped at the airport. There lies the difference from India! Our plane is suppose to leave for Singapore at 4 45 pm. I must admit it was a bit overdose of temple, but it was like a dream. We reached Phnom Penh at 5.30 pm and left at 6.30 pm and ultimately reached Singapore at 9.05 pm Singapore time. After reaching Singapore I got the baggage arranged since I have to catch an early morning flight to KL at 6 30 am. So I had to book a Taxi early in the morning.

Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Budget Travel tips to South East Asia - Singapore/ Malaysia,Cambodia etc.























How to go to South- East Asia etc cheaply from India?


a. First make your passport.

b. Buy ticket with the help of :

Portals :





cleartrip.com or
http://www.cosmos.com/Vacations/ (for European tours) or
or directly through Low cost airlines(LCC)/ cheap airlines :
@@ Some of the places you cannot go from India (you have to use LCC Kuala Lumpur). E.g. you cannot buy ticket to say Indonesia from Calcutta, through Tiger airlines.


C 1A. Apply for visa - for Singapore ( IT CAN BE DONE ONLY THROUGH AN AGENT)
I.   2 photos - 3.5  * 4.5 cm - 80% of face appearance (in white background only  ,
II. 6 month Bank statements
III. Identity card of office- for office goers (not required for retired person)
IV. For self employed, you need to show a visiting card
IV. Duly filled up and signed visa form -
That's all, though Singapore is neither Visa free nor Visa for arrival (VOA) for Indians. Right now it is free for Thailand. However it is VOA for Cambodia and Indonesia.
You can see the following useful portal for visa info:
http://www.evisaasia.com/visa-requirement-english/tourist-visa-requirements-for-india-citizens-in-english/ or

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visa_requirements_for_Indian_citizens


C 2. Apply for travel insurance (call Deb at 9088 2040 12 at Kolkata)


C 3. Apply for forex : You should buy hard currency ($) and also have travel card.



Travel card is cheaper. Every time you load it with Indian rupee , they(banker like Axis bank, HDFC etc) will take Rs 165 (Rs 150 + service tax) as loading charges and if you return from your tour then, again, you have to pay around Rs 113 (Rs 100 + service tax) to surrender the card and get back the money. What is good about Travel card is that, it will be cheaper e.g. if the banker sells you dollar at 45.90 , then for travel card they will sell you at (say) 45.10.



Documents required for applying travel card and hard currency are :
Visa copy, E ticket copy, Pan card copy and Passport copy (If your passport is not having current address, then you need to give last 3 months bank's statement).

1. You need to fill up form A2

2. For travel card you have to fill up a form - which can be downloaded from the site of Axis bank (http://www.axisbank.com/personal/cards/travelcurrencycard/Travel-Currency-Card.asp).
For this you don't need to have a bank account with Axis bank.
You can contact Debabrata Panja, 9830 44 22 37 of Axis bank ( for Travel card and forex) who is very helpful and will do the needful for you at your doorstep.

C4 For hostels

Best is http://www.hotelscombined.com for comparison of hotels across various sites

use either Hostel World (http://www.hostelworld.com/) or 
Hostelling International (http://www.hihostels.com/) or

I have used http://www.hostelworld.com , hostelbookers.com and 



For insurance, try World Nomads (http://www.worldnomads.com/), probably the cheapest.

C 1B  Apply for visa - for Malaysia

There is departure tax at airport , normally it is included in the air ticket (in my case - AirAsia)
Same as above

** sometimes it is cheaper to go to Singapore via Malaysia/Bnagkok by Air asia. i.e get a ticket upto Malaysia and catch another flight to go to Singapore from Malaysia(or take a ktmb train from KL to Singapore for Rs 300/450 - cheapest one : 3 different timings, early morning, after noon & overnight.
Desc.
Train No.
Train Name
Origin
Destination
Departure
Arrival
Direct Train
1
EKSPRES RAKYAT
SENTRAL KUALA LUMPUR
SINGAPORE
14:07
21:10:00
Direct Train
13
EKSPRES SINARAN SELATAN
SENTRAL KUALA LUMPUR
SINGAPORE
09:00
16:41:00
Direct Train
25
SENANDUNG SUTERA
SENTRAL KUALA LUMPUR
SINGAPORE
23:00
07:00:0

Its 6 hours journey by train or there is bus service also. I have booked ticket on-line fromwww.ktmb.com.my

You can try 15-20 days prior to your travel date. I have booked it 15 days before the journey date.
The trains are usually full on weekends. They are good for the cheap & best travel option. KTMB operates 3 trains a day from Sentral KualaLumpur to Singapore.)

HOW TO BUY YOUR TRAIN TICKETS. 4 ways...

1) AT THE STATION:
Just walk into any KTM train station and buy your ticket (in this case it's the Tanjong Pagar station)
2) ONLINE: at www.ktmb.com.my

Click on 'e-ticketing' and proceed to register as a user.
Next, book your tickets and pay by credit card.
Print out your temporary ticket and collect the real ones at any KTM station.

Tips for booking online:


- Tickets may booked up to 60 days in advance.
- Kuala Lumpur is listed under 'S' as 'Sentral Kuala Lumpur'.
- The 'Label/slot' field refers to your choice of coach - K1,K2,K3
- You can also indicate the seat of your choice
- The best 2nd class sleepers are located in the middle of the coach
- Lower berths, thought slightly more expensive, are wider than upper berths


3) BY PHONE:
+6 03 2267 1200 (outside Malaysia)
03 2267 1200 (within Malaysia)

No need for any explanation here except be aware of KTM's office hours which are 08.15 to 17.00
4) BY EMAIL:callcentre@ktmb.com.my

When booking by email, simply specify the dates and class of travel preferred. The reservations centre will reply with a reference number which you will need to quote when you present yourself at the station to pick up and pay for your ticket.
If you reach LCCT (low cost terminal of Air Asia - http://www.malaysiasite.nl/lccteng.htm) late at night, then it is better to stay near Sentral KL for onward journey to Singapore next day by train, since the train station is at Sentral KL. e.g. you can stay at original backpacker travellers In at Jalan sultan (for details and booking google it). In fact i have stayed the night in LCCT airport and took the aerobus only in the morning.That is what most travelers do.
For that either take aerobus (last bus leaves at 1.30 am - time taken is 1 hour) for MYR 8
or
{A train also goes to Bangkok but have to change at Alor Star & need to wait for 8 hours to take another to Bangkok. Say about 24 hours journey}.
@@ But you may need multiple entry visa (a visa allowing someone to enter a country as often as they like) in Malaysia (@ Rs 1500 - 1750/- depending upon the agent) for that.
Visa fee for Singapore(basically multiple) according to the website is S$30 + service charge of Rs 300 , if you are in Calcutta then agents take around Rs 1750 -1900/-. I paid Rs 1500 for Malaysian and Rs 1750 for Singaporean visa to Alps Tours opposite American consulate in Kolkata- Ph No. 2282 2031.It took around 14 days to get the visa

The information given below is provided by Hemant Abhare, Bangalore.

A very Good hotels in Pantai tengah,Malaysia:
Charlie Motel for Rs 1200/- or Bella Vista Hotel (I liked it best for its offerings (has sea facing rooms too) for around Rs 1500/- (but remember these rates do not include taxes.)

C 1C  Apply for visa - for Cambodia -
For Indian passport holder, getting Cambodian Visa is very easy. It can either be E-visa or VOA(visa on arrival) . I have gone for VOA. It is very easy without any hassles; it should not take more than 15 minutes. I have not seen anybody facing any problem whatsoever. In fact i have been told that in e-visa sometimes they create problems.
The charges are 20 UD $. There is a departure tax also of 25 US $. In our case it was included in the air ticket, like Malaysia.

Go to Foreign ministry website to apply for e-visa : http://www.mfaic.gov.kh/There will be link for going to e-visa section. What you need to have before you apply for e-visa.

-
Passport photo scan copy
- Credit card
- Tentative date of travel
- Port of entry (you can get info about entry port on the same website. You can enter through specific border points of Thailand, Vietnam, and Laos)

Port of entry is something which you will need to know before, just to make sure that you have your route mapped.
## Most of the people travel to Cambodia via Thailand and most popular port of entry is Poi Pet which is 4 hours from Bangkok.

Steps involved:

- Update your personal information
- Update passport information
- Update date, travel mode (you can feel anything and its okay if you don’t know vehicle no), port of entry
- Update photo
- Pay money


Once you apply for Visa, within 2 days you will get Visa copy on your email. Take a printout and carry it with you while crossing the border. There will be immigration section where they will take your e-visa and will stamp entry date in your passport.

I think this Visa is valid for one month which is more than enough to travel across Cambodia.
I am told that somebody who has applied for e-visa,got his visa in 2 hours!!

From Poi Pet, in 4 hours you can go to Siem Reap. Cambodia is one of my most favorite travel destinations.
or

VOA
For VOA take your tickets and fly to Siem Reap from KL(say). It is super easy and they need just your passport, filled up VOA form, 1 passport size white background photo and in 10-15 minutes the visa is stamped on your passport

According to
Manish Banthia :
Some extras about Siem Reap:

~"Cambodia Backpackers" just walking distance from Pub Street. Moun is also a CSer and gives away free dorms and even free pickups from the airport. Very nice guy, very helpful. Else you also find dorm beds starting $1 at most places.

~ATMs dispense USDs, so don't bother exchanging currencies to Riels [Though $1=4000 riel is the usual calculation]

~Don't miss out on the "Traditional Apsara Dance", which happens most days in different places. Keep asking the CSers/locals :-)

~Pub Street and Night Market are worth a visit. It is difficult to believe Pub street is in Asia.Amazing place.
ATM's charge 2$ per transaction + the transaction charge that your bank imposes; so factor this in when you withdraw cash!
(In my case my debit card was charged 4 US $ for withdrawal on 16/5/2011.)

Apart from pub street & the night markets, I can recommend "Happy Herbs" pizza place. Ask for extra happy pizza and the owner will know what you need!

C 1D. Apply for visa - for Vietnam -

Well, if you try to find the info online, it is pretty much scattered, so it is possible for you to get confused. Here I am telling you the info, the stuff I did when I travelled to Vietnam.

First of all you need invitation letter to travel to Vietnam for tourist Visa. Don’t get scared, there are plenty of online website/agents, who will take care of this. You just need to pay 20 USD. The one website I used was, http://www.vietnam-visa.com/

Yours truly have done it through http://evietnamvisa.com

How it works?


Go to the website http://evietnamvisa.com . Select appropriate options like, application, type of visa, duration of the stay. Then it was ask you duration of stay, port of entry and other details.
Once you pay the money online, you will get a invitation letter in 2-3 days on your email. It will be scan copy of invitation letter when you can find quite a few names in the list along with your name. Don’t be scared. They just process invitation letter for 10-20 people at once. Inmy case it took only 1 day ! Dont go stamping sevice.

Once you get the invitation letter, all you need to do is to fly to specific airport you mentioned, go to visa on arrival counter and get the stamp. Simple isn’t it?

Now, for the people, who hates flying, like me (or want to experience road travel) can opt for another option, which is to get Visa prior of travel.

You need to do about thing in any case. In case of applying for prior visa you need to first get the same invitation letter from the above mentioned website.

Take this letter to Vietnam embassy, feel the form, pay the fees and you will get your Vietnam Visa in about week or so. Once you get the Visa, you can cross the Vietnam border by land.



C 1E. Apply for visa - for Laos -

There are two options to get Visa viz; VOA or prior visa
VOA:
Visa on arrival is applicable for Indian passport holder though service is available at only to airports.
Visas can be obtained on arrival only at Wattay and Luang Prabang International Airports and at theFriendship Bridge, Vientiane. All other crossing points require a valid visa on arrival
I guess the fee is something like 30-40 US$ and you get a month entry or three month entry.
(According to Manish Banthia, " I got my VOA at Pakse for $40 and there weren't any exit airport taxes. It was easy and simple. One peculiar thing when I took my flight to Bangkok from Vientiane; the airport people asked me to show $500 in cash, that was so weird.I had only $200 in cash and some Indian Rupees, equivalent to $180. I played the trick and told 'em that the Indian money I have equals more than $350. Even funny, they totally accepted. Thanks to them for not checking online then" )

Prior visa:

There is not much information available online, hence you need to go to embassy to apply for visa.Benefit of having Visa prior, you can cross the border by land from following entry points;

- Two checkpoints in Vientiane Prefecture - Wattay airport and the Mekong River "Friendship Bridge" from Northeast Thailand;
- One at the Luang Prabang International Airport;
- Two in Savannakhet Province: one between Savannakhet town and Mukdahan in Thailand, and one between Densavanh and Laobao in Quang Tri Province, Vietnam;
- One in Northwestern Bokkeo Province at Houai Sai and one at Tonpheung bordering Thailand's Chiang Rai Province;- One at Boten in Luang Namtha Province bordering China;
- One at Thakhek in Khammouane Province bordering Nakhon Phanom Province in Thailand;
- One in Vangtau in Champassak Province bordering Ubon Rathchatani Province in Thailand;
- One in Nam Phao in Borikhamsay Province bordering Cau Treo in Ha Tinh Province in Vietnam.

What you need?

1) 1 completed application form (visit http://www.laoembassy.se/visa.html)
2) 2 photos
3) Valid passport
4) Visa processing fee (SEK 300) foreign currency
Forex converter is given in my blog
According to Manish Banthia :
Some extras about Vientiane:

~Sukuran Pub, by the Mekong River-side is a cool pub to hang out. Lao Beer at 10000KIP :P

~Silom Guest House on Silom Road is a nice, safe and clean place. Something around $10-$15 for a private double bedroom.

~Very near to "Patuxai" and "That Luang" is resto http://www.khopchaideu.com/main.htm and I loved to hang out in this place.

~The tallest building in Vientiane has a cool semi open air whole night discotheque on the 13th floor[one can locate it standing by the river side]

~People and Tuk Tuks charge you as they wish, so bargain and negotiate. The people are actually most lovely.

C 1F. Apply for visa - for Indonesia
see earlier posts
VOA is 25 USD and there is departure tax too. But VOA is fairly simple and super fast without any hassles. The departure tax on May 2011 was Rupaih 40,000 from Bali to Java(Jogja) and Rupaiah 150,000 from Bali to Singapore.
Places of Interest – Borbodur and Bali. Ubud of Bali is one of the most amazing place i have ever visited.
Borobudur is in Jogjakarta/Yogyakarta, so you need to take a flight to jogja which takes like 1 hour from Bali.
Lion Air or mandala Airlines has some cheap tickets.
Bus is other option but then it takes like almost 12 hours to get to jogja and you need to cross bali strait to get to Java island. It sometimes costs the same as flight ticket and mostly of the trip is at night (night bus).From Jogja you can get to Borobudur by taxi or bus. It will take around 1 hour .


C 1F. Apply for visa - for Sri Lanka

In Sri Lanka ,its VOA at Colombo for thirty days for Indians, I am told.


C 1G Apply for visa - for Thailand (as on 12.08.2012)
a. 2 Photos
b. Rs 2000 visa charges in cash for 30 days tourist visa
c. Bank statement for 6 months
d. Return ticket
e.proof of hotel booking
visa timing in consulate office Kolkata 9 am to 12 am

** filled up form to be submitted 1st day and get the visa next day within 9 am to 12 am. There is no need to go personally.
Address:Royal Thai Consulate-General, Kolkata
18B, Mandeville Gardens, Ballygunge,
Kolkata 700-019
Tel.:(91-33)2 4403229, 2 4407836, 2 4409723
Fax.:(91-33)2 4406251
http://www.thaiemb.org.in/en/consulate/kolkata.php



VISA RULES

Entry date reminder

When applying for a Visa, you’ll need to write an entry date on the application, but backpackers may find it hard to predict the exact date that they’ll arrive. Usually, you can just put down an estimated date. Here’s a tip, pick an earlier date, rather than a later one. If you pick an early date and arrive later, it shouldn’t be a problem, but not the other way around.
If you’re worried about arriving earlier than anticipated, check with the Visa issuer first before you leave. In most cases, the dates can’t be changed, but they can add a remark and things should be fine. Bear in mind that the moment you enter the country, the countdown on your Visa’s validity begins, and you mustn’t make an exit after your Visa has expired!
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Border Crossing Tips

Border crossings can be much more challenging as compared to entry by flight. In most cases, Visa counters aren’t open 24-hours a day at the border. This means, if you arrive during non-office hours, be prepared to wait there!
Basically, there are two main types of border crossings
– ‘international crossings’ and
- ‘local crossings.’
You should also be informed that some border crossings are open only to locals and not foreigners.
One of the most alarming things about border crossings is the scams. Basically, the officials there will ask you for more money for the Visa, etc. Usually, you can worm yourself out of extra payments by saying that you’ve checked with the ministry of foreign affairs and their immigration department, and that you know how much the Visa is exactly. Usually, they won’t make things difficult for you if you know the ins and outs or are prepared.

Don’t be perturbed by this though, border crossings can be fun. Since not many tourist opt for it, things are usually more casual and you have some time to befriend the locals Before attempting a border cross, however, scope the nearest town from the checkpoint and if public transport is available.

Visa for Kids


Many travellers are unsure of whether or not they need to apply for a Visa for their children, but as a rule, if the child has a passport, he or she will need a Visa, regardless of the child’s age. But, if your child does not have a passport yet, please do speak with the Visa issuer and ask about your child’s Visa requirements before you travel. Applying for a children’s Visa is about the same as applying for an adult’s one, although you may need to submit a few additional documents.

Getting a Visa


For people who rarely travel, getting a Visa seems like such a hassle, but please don’t worry, as you do have several options. Let’s discuss the three approaches that you can explore to obtain a Visa:
i. Apply from an embassy
If you are planning to visit Vietnam, you can apply for Visa at the Vietnamese embassy orconsulate in your country. To search for an embassy near you, just use key words like ‘Vietnam Embassy in (your country).’ If you can’t find one, you can post your passport to a neighbouring country. Do check with the embassy before you post, or ask a travel agent if they can arrange a Visa run, which is basically the same thing, only they go to the embassy for you. With an embassy application, sometimes, you’ll be asked to attend an interview. Once the embassy issues the Visa, it will be stuck onto your passport before you leave the country.
ii. Visa on arrival
Some countries offer a ‘Visa on arrival’ (VOA) or ‘on-ground Visa’ option. The VOA counter will be clearly marked at the airport. Basically, your Visa will be stamped on your passport when you enter the country you are visiting. Usually, you will need to pay a stamping fee.
Some countries, like China, for example, require their citizens to show a valid Visa before flying out from country. In these cases, Vietnam can issue a pre-approval letter, approval code or invitation letter, which will verify that you will get a Visa on arrival.
iii. Electronic Visa

Countries like Cambodia and Australia have electronic Visas or e-Visas. Your application is performed online, and once approved, your Visa can be obtained by email or by downloading it from their website. You just need to print it out and attach it to your passport.


Let’s talk about the forms that Visas take, shall we? Well, some countries issue Visas in the form of stickers, which is about the size of one page in your passport. All you need to do is stick it into your passport, and you’re all set.

Another type of Visa is one stamped directly onto your passport. It usually has a date which states when you’re entering the country and the Visa’s validity period. When you exit the country, they’ll stamp it again with the date of exit.

Last, but not least, is the self-printed Visa, which is usually in the form of an image or just a number that the immigration can use to check your Visa’s authenticity. This also means that you’ll have to make the number ready for immigration counters to cross check with their systems.
Tips for Online Visas

Picture this scenario, you see a blank page on your computer, you press ‘next’ and it takes forever to load. What’s up? If this happens to you while you’re in the process of applying for an online Visa, make sure that you’re not uploading an image that’s not too big in size. Resize your picture and try again. If not, try with another computer or a different web browser such as Google Chrome or Firefox.

Another good tip is to have your passport with you while you’re making an application, you’ll definitely need some of the info in there. If you’re applying for friends, make sure you’ve gotten all their details and pictures before you start. This will save you a lot of grief.
Other than credit card payments, many online Visa portals accept Paypal. At the payment page, they will prompt you to log in to your Paypal account using your email address, and then you can make the payment from there. In some countries, you’ve got to go through an extended program in Paypal to verify your credit card.
Always enter your application in ENGLISH (Roman alphabet), not in Chinese or Japanese characters, and make sure you review all your information, especially your passport number and date of birth.
If you have two nationalities, pick one to enter. Use the one where you’re most likely to be approved. If you were born in the country you wish to visit, but are now holding a foreign passport, please check with their embassy. In Cambodia, for example, you need to apply for a special Visa, not a tourist Visa if you were born there. And, in Vietnam, if you were born there, you’re exempted from getting a Visa.

For all qeries on Asian visa see this site:


To dial a number FROM a CALLING CARD in Malaysia, follow these instructions:

018 or 008
country code (for Singapore, it is 65, Malaysia 60, Indonesia 62, Thailand 66)
area code (Singapore does not have any)
receiver's telephone number

Examples

say My phone number in Singspore is (65) 99987955 [Singapore country code =65]
So, to call me, you have to dial 018 - 65 - 99987955 or 008 65 - 99987955
My friend's US number is (818) 7150941 [USA country code = 1, Los Angeles area code = 818]
So, to call My friend, you have to dial 018 - 1 818 - 7150941 or 008 - 1 - 818 -7150941
To call me in India from Singapore 00 – 91 – 9830 xx xx 68.


Chronological order

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