Monday, March 10, 2025

Corbett - Gairal, Bharatpur Tour with Taj Mahal - 2025

 🐅Wild Trails : Our Jim Corbett & Bharatpur Bird sactuary Journey 🦜

Itinerary

27.03.2025   Kolkata (0055 hrs) - Delhi (0325 hrs) by Air India (Return Ticket Rs 10,000)

27.03.2025 Ramnagar (1145 hrs) > Dhangarhi Gate (1215) 
- 290 Km > Gairal (1415) >Dhikala zone>Gairal (1615) 

28.03.2025 Gairal (0615 hrs) > Dhikala Zone > Dhikala-1015 : Dhikala-1415 >Dhikala Zone>Gairal (Dhikala-1815)

29.03.2025 Gairal (0615 hrs) > Dhikala Zone > Dhikala-1015 : Dhikala-1415 >Dhikala Zone>Gairal (Dhikala-1815)

30.03.2025   Gairal (0615 hrs) > Dhikala Zone >Gairal (Dhikala-1015) : Gairal >Dhanagarhi gate - 1115 >Bharatpur (NH)

31.03.2025   Bharatpur (NH)

01.03.2025   Bharatpur (NH) > Fatehpur Sikri>Itmad-ud-Daulah>Taj Mahal>Delhi

02.03.2025    Delhi (0200 hrs) - Kolkata (0415 hrs)



Lineated Barbet
Blue Throated Barbet

black hooded golden oriole





Night Jar



Crested Kingfisher



Meet the Adventurers

Our group for this thrilling adventure consists of 5 travellers:

  • Sourabh (the planner and narrator of this journey)
  • Mohua dropped out due to some family exigiency
  • Jaideep & Sanchita (joining from CR Park, Delhi, with their own car)
  • Sampa
  • Soma


  • Additionally, Dr Pranab Datta aka Jadu Kaka joined us later from Delhi on March 30, 2025 at Iora Guest House (near Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary) with his family

About Jim Corbett National Park

Jim Corbett National Park, established in 1936 as Hailey National Park, is India's oldest and one of its most prestigious tiger reserves. Located in Uttarakhand, the park spans 1,318 sq. km, including 520 sq. km of core area. It is home to Royal Bengal Tigers, leopards, elephants, gharials, deer species and more than 600 bird species.

The morning safari timing is - 0615-1015 and evening safari timing is 1415-1815

Corbett’s Safari Zones:

The park is divided into 6 major zones:

  1. Dhikala Zone – The most premium and sought-after zone, known for its vast grasslands, high tiger population, and stunning river views. The rest houses near the Dhangarhi gate are: Sultan > Gairal > Sarpadhuli > Dhikala. Dhikala is furthest from the Dhangarhi gate
  2. Bijrani Zone – Dense forested area with a mix of sal trees and open meadows.
  3. Jhirna Zone – Open all year round and known for frequent sloth bear and leopard sightings.
  4. Dhela Zone – Rich in birdlife, making it a great spot for birdwatching.
  5. Garjiya Zone – Relatively new, ideal for nature lovers and photographers.
  6. Durga Devi Zone – A hilly terrain, best for spotting mahseer fish and elephants near the Ramganga River.

Wildlife in Dhikala Zone (Jim Corbett National Park) 🐅🌳

Dhikala is the most biodiverse and sought-after zone in Jim Corbett National Park. The mix of dense forests, riverbanks, and vast grasslands (chaurs) makes it an ideal habitat for a variety of wildlife.

🔹 Mammals Found in Dhikala:

  1. Royal Bengal Tiger 🐅 – The star attraction, often seen in the grasslands and near water bodies.
  2. Leopard 🐆 – More elusive than tigers, found in rocky and forested areas.
  3. Asiatic Elephant 🐘 – Herds frequently roam the Ramganga riverbanks.
  4. Sloth Bear 🐻 – Sightings are rare, but they do exist in the dense forests.
  5. Wild Boar 🐗 – Commonly seen, especially near the chaurs.
  6. Spotted Deer (Chital) 🦌 – The most commonly spotted deer in the park.
  7. Sambar Deer 🦌 – A preferred prey of tigers, found in denser parts of Dhikala.
  8. Barking Deer  – Shy and solitary, often heard rather than seen.
  9. Hog Deer – Found mostly in the grasslands of Dhikala.
  10. Gharial & Mugger Crocodile 🐊 – Seen in the Ramganga River.
  11. Otters – Playful and often seen near the riverbanks.

🔹 Birds Found in Dhikala: 🦜

Dhikala is a paradise for birdwatchers, with over 600 bird species recorded! Some highlights include:

  1. Crested Serpent Eagle – Often seen perched on high branches.
  2. Fish Eagle – Spotted near water bodies.
  3. Osprey – A migratory bird often seen diving for fish.
  4. Hornbill – Found in the dense forested areas.
  5. Ruddy Shelduck  – Seen in flocks near the river.
  6. Changeable Hawk-Eagle – A common raptor.
  7. Black Stork – Found wading near water sources.
  8. Kingfishers (Pied, White-throated, Common, and Stork-billed) – Found along the riverbanks.
  9. Himalayan Griffon Vulture – Seen soaring in the sky.
  10. Peafowl (Peacock) – A common sight throughout the park.
  11. Barbet - Lineated, Coppersmith, Blue throated

Why Dhikala zone is Special  ?

  • Dhikala is the largest and most scenic part of Corbett, renowned for its grasslands (chaurs) where tiger sightings are most frequent. It is definitely the most picturesque of all the National Parks in India.

  • Staying inside the Dhikala Zone is  allowed only at forest rest houses (FRHs). There is no private property here.

  • Day visitors can enter via Canter safari, but they are not allowed to stay overnight. These visitors do not access the core zones, as they mostly stick to the main roads—limiting the chances of significant wildlife sightings.

  • People staying in other zones are not allowed to enter Dhikala zone.
  • The Ramganga River runs through Dhikala, making it a prime area for wildlife movement.
  • This zone is also famous for elephant herds, crocodiles, and raptors/birds of prey.

         Sultan/ Gairal / Sarpadhuli Forest Rest House 

  • Staying at these rest houses gives you early access to core areas—unlike outside lodges.

    • Distance from Dhikala:

      • Sultan: ~1 hour away

      • Gairal: ~45 minutes (17 km)

      • Sarpadhuli: ~35 minutes

    Hence, if you're not staying at Dhikala FRH, you must return earlier to avoid fines. The main sighting area is Dhikala.

    • Food:

      • Only vegetarian food is served. Prices: ₹500 (Dhikala), ₹400 (Gairal).

      • Personally found it overpriced—e.g., 2 toasted breads with butter and an omelette cost ₹120 at Dhikala!

      • Outside food is not allowed.

    • Network:

      • No mobile network in Dhikala or Gairal (we had Airtel, Jio, BSNL, Vodafone—none worked).

      • Only a faint signal exists near one pole in Dhikala.

    • The whole tour is booked through Banzaara Travels. Booking safari in Corbett has become a big scam. So we were forced to book through Banzaara Travels. We were in touch with Priyanka - who did everything for us. We paid Rs 120,000 for 6 people for 6 safaris - without food (from Ramnagar to Ramnagar)

📅 Date-Wise Itinerary

🛫 March 27, 2025 – The Journey Begins

  • 00:55 AM – Flight from Kolkata (CCU) to Delhi (T3) via Air India.

  • 03:25 AM – Arrival in Delhi.

  • 04:15 AM – Our car (arranged by Banzaara Travels) picked us up. Jaideep and Sanchita joined from Sarai Kale Khan.

  • 09:00 AM – Breakfast at the well-known (but expensive) Mama Yadav restaurant.

  • 11:30 AM – After a 6-hour drive, we reached Ramnagar, bought 45 litres of water, parked our car at Ringora, and headed to Dhangarhi gate, where our driver Mushaid was waiting.

  • 12:30 PM – Completed entry formalities and entered the park.

  • 01:30 PM – Checked in at Gairal FRH inside Dhikala Zone. We had snacks for lunch.

Gairal FRH: Offers more peace and privacy than Dhikala FRH. Located right next to the Ramganga River—ideal for spotting gharials, otters, and even tigers. Due to dense tree cover, tiger sightings from the rest house are unlikely (unlike Sarpadhuli or possibly Sultan - I have not visited Sultan).

🌿 Evening Safari (02:15 PM – 06:15 PM)

Our first safari in Corbett's wild terrain. We explored dense sal forests, riverbanks, and grasslands.

  • Sighting: Two 15-month-old tiger cubs and a tiger crossing the road.

  • 06:15 PM – Returned to Gairal FRH.

Dinner: Skipped the overpriced vegetarian meal. Had Maggi, Anda Bhurji, and Bread Omelette instead.

The vegetarian dinner costs Rs 400 !  We were told there is no fan in Gairal. It is not correct. There is no AC, but there is fan. Because of the elevation it is not all cold in Gairal. It was actually quite chilly in the mornings and evenings.


 🐾 March 28, 2025 – Into the Heart of Corbett

🐾 March 28, 2025 – Into the Heart of Corbett

  • 06:15 AM – 10:15 AM – Morning Safari: No tigers, but plenty of birds.The morning was quite cold,even though it was March 28th !

  • 10:15 AM – 02:15 PM – Break at Dhikala. We didn't return to Gairal to save time. Had a light breakfast at 1030 am and snacks at 1330 pm.

    • Snacks counter has reasonably priced items.

    • Didn't opt for pricy lunch (₹500) at  the main Restaurant 

    • Relaxed —There is a nice place beside the Dhikala Reception, where we took some rest and had chitchat

  • 02:15 PM – 06:15 PM – Evening Safari:

    • Wonderful elephant sightings.

    • Left Dhikala at 5:30 PM to reach Gairal by 6:15 PM.

08:30 PM    Dinner: Skipped again,  had Bread omelette and made Maggi in the room.


🐾 March 29, 2025 – Another Day in the Wild

06:15AM - 10:15 AM – Morning Safari. No Tiger sighting - but lot of birds. 

  • 10:15 AM – 02:15 PM – Break at Dhikala. We didn't return to Gairal to save time. Had a light breakfast at 1030 am and snacks at 1330 pm.

    • Snacks counter has reasonably priced items.

    • Didn't opt for pricy lunch (₹500) at  the main Restaurant 

    • Relaxed —There is a nice place beside the Dhikala Reception, where we took some rest and had chitchat

🐅 02:15 PM - 06:15 PM – Evening Safari 

  • Explored another section of Dhikala.

  • Finally saw the tiger!

  • Returned to Gairal by 6:15 PM.

08:30 PM    Dinner: Skipped again,  had Bread omelette and made Maggi in the room.


🐾 March 30, 2025 – Final Safari & Transfer to Bharatpur

06:15 AM – 10:15 AM – Last Morning Safari
Our final chance to experience the morning wilderness of Corbett. Although we didn’t spot any tigers, we saw plenty of birds. I spotted the Coppersmith Barbet, Lineated Barbet, and Blue-throated Barbet.

We had to rush back to Gairal and didn’t have the option to stop at Dhikala. Unfortunately, our vehicle had a mechanical issue today, and the driver, Mushaid, took some time to fix it—so our safari time got shortened.

We were told there was a tiger sighting near Gairal FRH, so we hurried back, but unfortunately, we didn’t see it.

11:00 AM – Check-out from Gairal FRH

12:00 PM – Reached Ringora
At this point, our group split into two: Sampadi and I continued on to Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary, while Didi (Soma) returned to Delhi with Jaideep and Sanchita. Didi will catch her 9:00 PM flight from Delhi to Kolkata. She skipped Bharatpur as she’s leaving for Ladakh on April 3, 2025.

I made a mistake while booking our car to Bharatpur—it’s near Agra. I mistakenly selected the date as 30.04 instead of 30.03!

13:45 PM


Anyway, our trusted Gozocab managed to arrange a car within 1 hour 45 minutes. It will take us to Bharatpur (about 320 km) on an 8-hour journey. The charge was around ₹7,300.

23:10 PM – Arrival in Bharatpur & Check-in at the hotel. Jadu Kaka was waiting for us in the hotel. We had our dinner at Iora Guest House, while Jadu Kaka was giving us company !

Tony, Tapul and Spriha (and Jadu Kaka) had also arrived for the safari in their own car. They were resting in their room. The distance from Delhi to Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary by road is 220 km (via Yamuna Expressway and Agra Highway), with a travel time of 4–5 hours, depending on traffic.


















Bharatpur, also known as Keoladeo Ghana National Park, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the finest bird sanctuaries in the world. Spread over 29 sq. km, it is renowned for its wetlands, marshes, and forests, attracting migratory birds from as far as Siberia, Central Asia, and Europe.

The park is very well-maintained and tourist-friendly. There is no need for advance booking—we booked our visit on the spot. The sanctuary hosts both water birds and land birds, with different zones catering to each terrain type. I had the wrong impression that it was only home to water birds.

Only 4 people can travel in an e-rickshaw. Just as a gypsy is to a national park, the e-rickshaw is the preferred mode of transport inside Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary. There are also buggy carts (which can accommodate more than 6 people) and horse carts available.

  • Entry fee: ₹155 for Indians

  • E-rickshaw rental (3 hours): ₹1,200

  • Guide charges: Approximately ₹1,200 (hiring a guide is not mandatory)

  • Bicycle rental: ₹150 for 3 hours


Key Birds in Bharatpur:

  • Siberian Crane – The rarest winter visitor (now extremely rare)

  • Painted Stork – Seen in large numbers, nesting in trees

  • Great White Pelican – Found in flocks near water bodies

  • Bar-headed Goose – Migrates from Central Asia

  • Spot-billed Duck – A resident species

  • Eurasian Spoonbill – Found wading in shallow waters

  • Black-necked Stork – Rare but striking

  • Indian Cormorant & Little Cormorant – Frequently seen fishing

  • Common Kingfisher, Pied Kingfisher – Often seen near water bodies

  • Purple Heron & Grey Heron – Common in marshy areas

  • Night Heron – Active during dusk and dawn

  • Sarus Crane – The tallest flying bird in the world, often seen in pairs

  • Indian Roller – Known for its dazzling blue feathers

  • Oriental Darter (Snake Bird) – Often seen swimming with only its head above water

  • Greater Flamingo – Occasionally spotted in the shallower lakes

  • Raptors (Marsh Harrier, Steppe Eagle, Tawny Eagle) – Seen hunting in open areas


Mammals Found in Bharatpur:

Though mainly known for its birdlife, Bharatpur is also home to several mammals:

  • Golden Jackal – Frequently seen along the dirt tracks

  • Nilgai (Blue Bull) – The largest antelope in India, commonly seen grazing

  • Rhesus Macaque & Langur Monkeys – Often seen near temple areas

  • Indian Porcupine – Nocturnal and rarely spotted

  • Indian Python – Occasionally seen basking in the sun


🐦 March 31, 2025 – Exploring Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary

06:30 AM – Early morning at Keoladeo National Park (Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary), spotting migratory birds like Pelicans, painted storks, Spotted Owl, Copper smith Barbet by an e rickshaw. We saw a King Cobra.

We had our lunch at Iora Guest house.

3:00 PM – 6:00 PM – This afternoon, we once again explored the park and enjoyed a peaceful rickshaw ride through Bharatpur’s beautiful wetlands. Tapul chose to ride a rented e-cycle. Sampa Di did not join us for the evening safari. 


We had our dinner at Iora Guest House.


🚗 April 1, 2025 – Left for Delhi via Fatehpur Sikri and Taj Mahal

10:30 AM – We left for Delhi. Fatehpur Sikri is only 25 km from Bharatpur, so we decided to visit it on the way. There was a huge crowd at Fatehpur Sikri due to Salim Chishti’s Mazar, as it was just after Eid. Due to time constraints, we had to skip Sikandra.

Next, we visited Itmad-ud-Daulah, also known as the Baby Taj, which is considered a prototype of the Taj Mahal. The entry fee is ₹30.

The ‘Baby Taj’ (Itimad-ud-Daulah’s Tomb, 1622–1628) stands as Nur Jahan’s marble tribute to her father, Mirza Ghiyas Beg — the Persian noble who rose to become Akbar’s Diwan of Bengal and later Jahangir’s finance minister. As the grandfather of Mumtaz Mahal (who would marry Shah Jahan and inspire the Taj Mahal), his tomb’s delicate pietra dura mosaics and latticework mark it as the Taj’s direct prototype, predating it by 3 decades.
Nur Jahan’s destiny was forged in Bengal’s history : her first husband, Sher Afgan, fell to a staged revolt in 1607 as governor of Burdwan — a tragedy that cleared her path to marry Emperor Jahangir. Her brother Asaf Khan, Mumtaz’s father, further anchored the family’s power through his governance of Bengal.
As empress, Nur Jahan wielded unparalleled power during Jahangir’s opium-clouded reign, issuing imperial decrees, striking coins in her name, and leading military campaigns — ruling, in effect, as the empire’s shadow sovereign.
Without her ascent after Sher Afgan’s death, there would be no Asaf Khan to orchestrate Mumtaz’s union with Shah Jahan... and thus no Taj Mahal.
Yet history reduces her to ‘Jahan’s Light’, obscuring the truth: this architect-empress didn’t just illuminate the Mughal court — she designed its golden age.

After that, we had lunch at McDonald’s, and then proceeded to visit the Taj Mahal. The entry fee is ₹50, but if you want to go up to the elevated platform near the minaret, there is an additional charge of ₹200. Previously, there was no extra fee, but I was told the new government has imposed it.

To know more about the history of this place , read https://www.bomadg.in/search/label/Agra

9:30 PM – We reached Jadu Kaka’s house in Vasant Kunj, had dinner there, and left for the airport by Uber around 12:00 AM. We were late, but somehow managed to check in at the airport.


🛫 April 2, 2025 – The Final Goodbye

02:00 AM – Our Air India flight departs from Delhi Airport.

04:15 AM – We land in Kolkata, officially concluding our thrilling adventure.



Wednesday, March 5, 2025

Tripura Trails: Where Hills and Heritage Hail - A Journey Near Our Roots in Comilla


 09.05.25 Kolkata ( 0650 hrs - IST- Indigo) > Agartala 0810 hrs) (Rs 7,000 with return fare per person)

## Thre is no requirment of applying Inner line Permit in Tripura, unlike some other NE States

09.05.25 Agartala city Tour  - Night Halt at Agartala 

 10.05.25 Agartala > Neermahal>Matabari>Chobimura>Dumboor- Night Halt at Dumboor 

11.05.25 Dumboor > Jampui - Night Halt at Jampui 

12.05.25 Jampui > Unakoti> Agartala - Night Halt at Agartala 

13.05.25 Agartala (0850) > CCU (0955)

We are 5 people - (Sourabh + Mohua)  & (Bidhan Chhanda) & Debashree










Tripura,one of India’s most culturally rich yet lesser-explored states, holds a deep historical connection with Bengali heritage, the Mizo tribes and Rabindranath TagoreAs we embark on our five-day journey, we will explore ancient rock-cut sculptures, pristine lakes, Buddhist archaeological sites, hilltop villages, experiencing the blend of Hindu, Buddhist and indigenous Tripuri influences.

Nestled in India’s northeast, Tripura is a land of lush hills, rich culture, and fascinating history. With 8 districts covering 10,491 sq km, it has a population of 4.1 million (2024 est.). The state is bordered by Assam and Mizoram, while 84% of its boundary (856 km) is shared with Bangladesh—making it a key cross-cultural hub. Neermahal Palace is Just 50 km from Comilla (Bangladesh), this stunning "Lake Palace" was built by King Bir Bikram Kishore in 1930.

Tripura's landscape is predominantly characterized by loose, reddish lateritic soil, especially in its hilly regions. It dominates 60–70% of Tripura, particularly in the Jampui Hills, Longtharai Range and Atharamura Hills.

As of 2024, Tripura has 8 districts. Here’s the complete list with key highlights:

Districts of Tripura

  1. West Tripura

    • Headquarters: Agartala (state capital)

    • Key Attractions: Ujjayanta Palace

  2. South Tripura

    • Headquarters: Belonia

    • Key Attractions: Pilak archaeological site, Bhubaneswari Temple.

  3. Dhalai

    • Headquarters: Ambassa

    • Key Attractions: Dumboor Lake, Gandacherra Wildlife Sanctuary.

  4. North Tripura

    • Headquarters: Dharmanagar

    • Key Attractions: Jampui Hills

  5. Khowai

    • Headquarters: Khowai

    • Key Attractions: Chabimura (rock carvings)

  6. Sepahijala

    • Headquarters: Bishramganj

    • Key Attractions: Sepahijala Wildlife Sanctuary (spectacled langur),Neermahal

  7. Gomati

    • Headquarters: Udaipur

    • Key Attractions: Tripura Sundari Temple (one of the 51 Shakti Peethas), Gomati Wildlife Sanctuary.

  8. Unakoti

    • Headquarters: Kailashahar

    • Key Attractions: Unakoti’s ancient bas-relief sculptures (7th–9th century).

Cultural Tapestry

  • 19 Indigenous Tribes in Tripura : The Tripuri (or Borok people) are the largest tribal group, followed by Reang, Jamatia, Chakma, Lushai and others. Pre-1947, Tripura was 70% tribal (Tripuri, Reang, etc.), today, Bengalis dominate (60% of 4.1 million).  Manikya" became a caste marker for Tripuri Hindus.


  • The 19 Tribes of Tripura are:

Tripuri (Borok) – Indigenous to Tripura, ruled by Manikya dynasty. Dominant tribe with rich cultural heritage.

Reang (Bru) – Migrated from Myanmar’s Chin Hills. Known for Hojagiri dance and bamboo crafts.

Jamatia – Settled in Tripura’s forests. Traditionally practiced shifting cultivation (jhum).

Chakma – Buddhist tribe from Chittagong Hills (Bangladesh). Fled during Partition (1947).

Halam – Originated from Assam’s Cachar Hills. Skilled in traditional medicine.

Mog – Buddhist fishermen from Arakan (Myanmar). Settled in South Tripura.

Munda – Migrated from Bihar/Jharkhand. Worked as tea laborers under British.

Oraon – Came from Chota Nagpur Plateau. Known for folk songs like "Karam."

Santhal – From Bengal/Jharkhand. Famed for vibrant dances (Dhodro Banam).

Lushai (Mizo) – From Mizoram’s Lushai Hills. Settled in Jampui Hills.

Kuki – From Manipur/Myanmar. Fought alongside Manikya kings against British.

Garo – From Meghalaya. Known for betel nut cultivation.

Khasi – Migrated from Meghalaya’s hills. Matrilineal society.

Bhil – From Rajasthan/Gujarat. Settled in Tripura as forest dwellers.

Bhil (Tripura) – Distinct from western Bhils. Adapted to Tripura’s ecology.

Lepcha – From Sikkim/Bhutan. Traditional weavers and farmers.

Noatia – Sub-group of Tripuri. Practiced animism before Hinduism.

Uchoi – Indigenous to Tripura. Known for Garia festival celebrations.

Riang – Clan of Reang tribe. Faced displacement due to ethnic conflicts

  • LanguagesBengali (dominant, spoken by 60%) and Kokborok (the Tripuri language, written in  Bengali script/Roman . We have generally seen Kokborok written in Bengali script in signboards. Normally 3 languages are written on a signboard - English, Bengali and Kok-borok

Historical Layers

  • Bengali Influence: Migrations surged during the partition (1947) and Bangladesh Liberation War (1971), shaping Tripura’s demographics.

  • Once a proud princely state ruled by the Manikya dynasty for over 500 years, Tripura merged with India only on October 15, 1948 — a year after Independence. Maharaja Bir Bikram Kishore Manikya (last ruling king) was known for progressive reforms like roads, schools and a legislature, but his sudden death left his widow, Maharani Kanchan Prava Devi, to navigate Partition’s chaos. The airport is named after Maharaja Bir Bikram Kishore Manikya.

  • Yet, post-1947, geopolitical pressures (Partition’s refugee influx and proximity to East Pakistan - over 600,000 Bengalis fled persecution ) led his widow, Maharani Kanchan Prava Devi, under pressure from India’s Home Minister Sardar Patel, the Maharani signed the merger to avoid Balkanization.

  • to sign the merger agreement. Unlike most princely states that joined India in 1947, Tripura’s integration was delayed due to  Strategic deliberations (its 84% border with East Pakistan/Bangladesh) and the royal family’s initial hopes for autonomy.

  • Ujjayanta Palace (now the state assembly) and Neermahal (summer palace) symbolize the Manikyas’ golden age. 

Tipra Party & Their Demands

The Tipraha Indigenous Progressive Regional Alliance (TIPRA Motha), led by Pradyot Debbarma, advocates for:

  1. Greater Tipraland – A separate state or autonomous council for Tripura’s tribes.

  2. Constitutional Safeguards – ST status for all 19 tribes and protection of land rights.

  3. Economic Empowerment – Jobs, education, and infrastructure in tribal areas.

  4. Cultural Preservation – Revival of Kok-borok language and tribal traditions.

  5. Political Representation – More seats for tribals in Tripura’s legislature.

TIPRA Motha emerged in 2021, capitalizing on tribal discontent over citizenship laws ( CAA/NRC fears - Bengali demographic shift) and Bengali demographic dominance. TIPRA Motha (Tipraha Indigenous Progressive Regional Alliance) has achieved significant electoral success since its formation in 2021, particularly in tribal-dominated areas. Their slogan "Greater Tipraland" resonated, promising autonomy akin to Bodo Territorial Council (Assam)

Tripura Legislative Assembly Elections 2023: They won 13 Seats and emerged as the second-largest party (after BJP), decimating the CPI-M and Congress in tribal belts.

Key Wins: Pradyot Debbarma (royal scion and party founder) won from Takwi-Jampui. Pradyot Debbarma’s lineage (Manikya dynasty) lent credibility. Animesh Debbarma (TIPRA Motha leader) became Leader of Opposition.

Lok Sabha Elections 2024: They won Tripura’s Tribal-reserved Seat (ST). Candidate Jubaraj Bhattacharjee secured victory, defeating BJP and Left Front.

  •   Tagore’s Profound Bond with Tripura’s Royal Family

    Rabindranath Tagore’s relationship with Tripura’s Manikya dynasty was one of mutual admiration and patronage, spanning generations. He visited the royal court seven times between 1899 and 1926, finding both artistic inspiration and political kinship.

    Key Moments in the Tagore-Manikya Legacy

    1. Maharaja Bir Chandra Manikya (1862–1896)

      • Recognized Tagore’s genius when the poet was just 20 years old (1881), years before his Nobel Prize fame.

      • Commissioned Tagore’s plays like Rajarshi (1887) and Bisarjan (1890), which explored themes of kingship and morality—likely influenced by Bir Chandra’s progressive rule (e.g., introducing secular courts and land reforms).

      • The king’s brother, Prince Durgamoni, was a close confidant of Tagore’s father, Maharshi Debendranath Tagore.

    2. Earlier Ties: Dwarakanath Tagore’s Era

      • Maharaja Krishna Kishore Manikya (r. 1830–1849), Bir Chandra’s predecessor, knew Dwarakanath Tagore (Rabindranath’s grandfather).

      • Dwarakanath, a pioneering industrialist, likely engaged with Tripura’s royals through trade and cultural exchanges during Bengal’s Renaissance.

    3. Royal Patronage & Creative Tributes

      • The Manikyas funded Tagore’s projects, including Visva-Bharati University. In return, he:

        • Dedicated poems like "Banglar Mati Banglar Jol" to Tripura.

        • Advised kings on benevolent governance (e.g., Maharaja Radha Kishore Manikya).

      • Ujjayanta Palace hosted performances of Tagore’s plays, blending Bengali and Tripuri culture.

    Why It Matters

    This alliance wasn’t just transactional—it shaped Tripura’s modern identity and Tagore’s vision of unity beyond borders. The poet’s letters reveal his awe for Tripura’s "hills that touch the sky," while the royals embraced his humanist ideals.


🗓️ Day 1: May 9, 2025 (Thursday) – Exploring Agartala

Our journey begins with an Indigo flight from Kolkata at 06:50 AM, arriving in Agartala, the capital of Tripura, at 08:10 AM. The city, founded by Maharaja Krishna Kishore Manikya in the 19th century, is a fascinating blend of royal heritage, spiritual landmarks, and modern vibrance.

We Checked-in at our hotel, freshen up and had breakfast.

🔹  Heritage Park (~1 hr) – A beautifully maintained green space offering a peaceful stroll through miniature of replicas of Tripura’s major landmarks. It reminded me of Madurodam of Netherlands. It is worth a visit.

🔹Visited Durgabari Tea  - the estate is owned by the workers. There is no individual owner. Interestingly Luxmi Tea (aka Makaibari Tea) starated their business from Tripura.
🔹  We had lunch at a Local Restaurant –  tried traditional Tripuri dish - Mosdeng Serma and Gudok.

🔹Ujjayanta Palace & Museum (~ 30 minutes) – Once the royal residence of the Manikya Dynasty, this Indo-Saracenic architectural marvel is now a state museum showcasing Tripura’s tribal heritage, Mughal-style gardens, and grand hallsUjjayanta Palace was built by Maharaja Radha Kishore Manikya in 1901 AD. Incidentally, the name of the palace was given by none other than Rabindranath Tagore. Infact Radha Kishore Manikya was a great friend of the poet.  Ujjayanta Palace was built in place of the old palace of Tripura that was destroyed in the devastating earthquake of July 1897. Much of Agartala was also destroyed in this earthquake. It was during this time that Tagore helped his friend and the royal family by helping them to secure a loan from the Bengal Bank. A loan of Rupees 10 Lakhs was arranged and the architectural firm of Martin & Co from Calcutta was hired to design the grand palace. Ujjayanta Palace served as a symbol of modern Tripura. Construction of the palace began in 1898 and work carried on till 1901 (source: https://taleof2backpackers.com/ujjayanta-palace-places-to-visit-in-agartala/)

🔹  Tripura Government Museum (~1 hr) – An engaging collection of archaeological relics, artifacts, and tribal crafts. It is located inside Ujjayanta Palace & Museum. It is very important to visit this museum on the first day to understand Tripura and its tribe.

🔹 Maharaja Bir Bikram College Lake – A lake named after Maharaja Bir Bikram Manikya, the last ruling king of Tripura. It is a small lake infront of Maharaja Bir Bikram College.

🔹 ISKCON Temple  – A beautifully maintained Hare Krishna temple with a peaceful ambiance.

🔹Jagannath Temple  – Built in the 19th century, this temple is known for its distinct Hindu-Muslim fusion architecture, featuring a hexagonal base and octagonal domes.

🔹Rabindra Satabarshiki Bhaban - Since it is 25the Baisakh, we went there to watch Rabindra Jayanti, while Mohua was busy in Shopping !

🔹  Dinner at a Local Restaurant (~1 hr) – We indulge in Tripuri delicacies like Mosdeng Serma and Gudok.
🔹 We did not have time to go to Venuvan Buddha Vihar – A Buddhist monastery where monks chant in unison, creating a soothing atmosphere.

🔹 Return to the hotel (Raj Andar - near Ujjayanta Palace) 

📍 Night Halt: Agartala


🗓️ Day 2: May 10, 2025 (Friday) – Chobimura

This day takes us through Tripura’s rich historical and spiritual sites, including the stunning Neermahal (Lake Palace), Tripura Sundari Temple, and the mystical rock carvings of Chobimura, ending at the picturesque Dumboor Lake.


📌 Morning: Agartala to Neermahal

🔹 07:00 AMBreakfast & Check-out from Agartala Hotel

🔹 07:30 AMDrive to Neermahal (~1.30 hours) - A scenic drive through lush green landscapes & traditional Tripuri villages. We took the boat to visit Neermahal.  It took almost 1.45 minutes to complete the whole process. It was built by Maharaja Bir Bikram Manikya in 1930, blending Mughal & Hindu architectural styles. It is India’s largest water palace, standing majestically in Rudrasagar Lake. it will remind you of Udaipur Lake Palace. Once a summer retreat for the Manikya dynasty, now an architectural wonderA Ramsar-listed wetland, home to migratory birds & rich biodiversity. It is very near our ancestral home of Comilla. It was designed by British engineer Martin & Burn Co. (known for iconic projects like Kolkata’s Victoria Memorial).

🔹 11:00 AMDrive towards Matabari / Tripura Sundari Temple 

Tripura Sundari Temple (Matabari) :  One of the 51 Shakti Peethas, believed to be where Sati’s right foot fellBuilt by Maharaja Dhanya Manikya in 1501, the temple is over 500 years old.  

📌 Afternoon: Chobimura Rock Carvings - 

🔹 Enjoyed the scenic drive along the lush Gomati River valley. Chobimura is an ancient rock carvings of Hindu deities, etched onto towering cliffs by the river. It features a 60-ft-high carving of Goddess Durga, a unique form of rock art in Eastern India. Breathtaking views of the green hillocks & river gorge. We had a boat ride. The Boat ride costs Rs 1750 per boat for a 1 hour boat ride. It was quite pleasant.

🔹We had our lunch stop at a local eatery at Chobimura.


📌 Evening: Dumboor Lake

🔹 16:30 PMDrive to Dumboor Lake (~2 hours) - A beautiful journey through forests & remote villages. Dumboor is  named after Lord Shiva’s damru (drum), this serene lake has 48 scenic islandsSurprisingly, even in Agartala, few locals seem to know about this hidden gem.

When we Checked-in at Sudhir Chakma's Sunset View Homestay, it is already evening. The facilites were very basic. 

A Challenging Yet Scenic Stay at Narkel Kunja, Dumboor

The heat and humidity at Narkel Kunja Homestay were relentless, with not a whisper of wind to offer relief. Nights were particularly grueling—the ceiling fan spun sluggishly until the hosts replaced its capacitor in both the rooms, finally restoring some comfort. Just as we began to settle, a gentle breeze swept in late at night, bringing fleeting respite.

Despite the basic amenities (no AC, minimal facilities), the view from the homestay was breathtaking—a serene lakeside landscape that almost made up for the discomfort.

For travelers seeking AC options in Dumboor:

  1. Aisha Homestay (Narkel Kunja) – Facebook link . There is no Lake view though. But it is near the resort.

  2. Narkel Kunja Island Resort – Booking link

A raw but rewarding escape—for those who prioritize nature over luxury. However I would highly recommend Narkel Kunja Island Resort. There is a nice view of the Lake from the Resort.

📍 Dinner & Overnight Stay at our Sunset View Homestay at Narkel Kunja, Dumboor Lake


🗓️ Day 3: May 11, 2025 (Saturday) – Dumboor to Jampui Hills

Tripura’s only hill station, Jampui Hills, is home to the Mizo tribes, who migrated centuries ago. Vanghmun is regarded as the cleanest village in Tripura, offering pristine natural beauty and rich cultural heritage.

📌 Morning: Drive to Jampui Hills from Dumboor.

🔹 07:00 AMCheck-out from Dumboor Lake
🔹 07:30 AMStart drive via Gandacherra - Ambassa - Kanchanpur (~ 4 hours, 130 km)

However, Bidhan da, struggling to sleep in the stifling air, decided to cut short the trip and return to Agartala, planning to visit Unakoti, the next day. We had our breakfast at Gandacherra and Bidhan da booked a car for Rs 2200 and left for Agartala. 

 We had lunch at Abar Khabo restaurant at Kanchanpur. The food was good.

We reached Jampui Hill through a scenic route, through dense forests, rolling hills, and tribal villages.We passed through Tripura’s cleanest village, Vanghmun -  enjoying its pristine air & peaceful ambiance.

🔹 16:30 AMArrive at Jampui Hills 

Jampui Hills: Tripura’s Scenic Crown Jewel

Perched as the highest hill range in Tripura, Jampui Hills offers cool, pleasant weather and unparalleled panoramic vistas. From our stay, we marveled at the Blue Mountains of Mizoram melting into lush, endless valleys—a view so vast it felt like nature’s own amphitheater. Most of the people here are Christians.

We chose MJ Homestay, run by a warm Mizo family at the highest point, guaranteeing unobstructed sunrise and sunset views. However, the rooms are extremely basic—barebones amenities with minimal comforts.

For a better stay, I’d recommend:

  1. Eden Tourist Lodge (Government-run) – More reliable facilities. There is apparently a sunset view point.

  2. SS Homestay – Balances comfort with local charm.

Jampui’s beauty is undeniable, but pick your stay wisely to match your travel style—rustic adventure or relaxed comfort.

🔹Overnight Stay at MJ Homestay


🗓️ Day 4: May 12, 2025 (Sunday) – Unakoti 

  • A Morning in Jampui Hills: Church Bells and Cultural Harmony

    We began our day by visiting the local church, a heartwarming glimpse into the Mizo community’s Christian traditions. The village, home to the Lushai and Reang tribes, radiated quiet harmony—until Debashree, curious and unaware, tugged at the church bell rope.

    Within moments, the entire village spilled out of their homes, alarmed, thinking an emergency had struck. An elderly lady gently scolded her, explaining that the bell was reserved for urgent calls—a lesson in local customs we wouldn’t forget!

    The mishap, though awkward, revealed the tight-knit bonds of this hillside community, where even a bell’s ring carries weight.


📌 Morning: Journey to Unakoti

🔹 07:30 AMCheck-out from Jampui Hills (MJ Homestay)
🔹 07:00 AMDrive via Kanchanpur - Dharmanagar - Kumarghat (~3 hours, 120 km)

Our drive wound through forested hills, tribal hamlets, and emerald fields, offering postcard-perfect views at every turn. We passed orange orchards standing empty (off-season, alas) and learned how many farmers are now replacing them with betel nut palms—a shift in agricultural fortunes.

Then magic happened: thick clouds suddenly engulfed our car, transforming the landscape into something surreal. We couldn't resist—we tumbled out of our Ertiga to stand breathless in the mist, nature's own theater unfolding around us.

The road offered another gift: ripe jackfruits split open on the asphalt. Following foraging instincts (when fruit falls, it's time to feast!), we scooped up the sweet, sticky segments—an impromptu jungle dessert.

By 11:30 AM, we circled back to Kanchan's familiar eatery—the same spot that had fueled us yesterday—for a hearty brunch of local flavors.

🔹 14:00 AMArrive at Unakoti – "The Lost Hill of One Less than a Crore". It is one of India’s most mystical & ancient Shaivite pilgrimage sites.Unakoti, meaning "one less than a crore", features thousands of rock-cut carvings dating back to the 7th–9th century AD. This site is believed to have been carved by a sculptor-saint who was cursed by Lord Shiva.


📌 Midday: Exploring the Unakoti Rock Carvings

🔹 14:00 hrsStart exploring Unakoti 

  • Witnessed the colossal 30-ft-high carving of Lord Shiva's face (Unakotiswara Kal Bhairava).
  • Admired the stunning carvings of Ganesha, Durga on a lion, Nandi bull, and other Hindu deities.
Note : It is possible to go to Unakoti by train (apparently there is an AC compartment also) from Agartala. It is a picturesque journey, I am told. It takes much less time also.

🔹 We had to skip Saica falls for paucity of time. 


📌  Return to Agartala

🔹 04:30 PMDepart for Agartala (~4.5 hours, 160 km). The road to Agartala was  very bad.

🔹 08:30 PMArrive in Agartala & Check-in at Hotel 

🔹 09:00 PMDinner at a Local Restaurant 

  • Could not find the Tripuri specialties like Mui Borok or Bamboo Shoot Curry.

📍 Night Halt: Agartala


🗓️ Day 5: May 13, 2025 (Monday) – Departure

🔹 Check-out & transfer to Agartala Airport.
🔹 Flight to Kolkata, ending our Timeless Tripura journey and joined office directly from airport.

## Our Tripura Travel 

For our 5 days exploration of Tripura, we opted for a hired Ertiga (Agartala Airport to Agartala Airport) at ₹18,000, inclusive of fuel and driver. A few key logistical highlights:

  • Driver & Stay: Our skilled driver, Dipak, was a reliable navigator of Tripura’s winding hills and tribal villages. We covered his lodging costs —a common practice for long tours.

  • Local Expertise: The itinerary was crafted by Mr. Subhajit Choudhury, a physics teacher and Tripura native, whose insights transformed our route into a cultural deep dive. His knowledge of offbeat stops (Jampui and Dumboor) proved invaluable.

Why This Worked:

  1. Cost-Effective: At ~₹3600/day for a 7-seater, splitting this among 5 travelers would be economical.

  2. Flexibility: Unlike cabs or buses, this allowed impromptu halts for jackfruit feasts or cloud-chasing in Jampui Hills!

Pro Tip: There is  no toll/parking charges in Tripura !


Places I Missed Due to Time Constraints

Despite careful planning, our tight schedule forced us to skip several remarkable destinations:

  1. Pilak – An ancient archaeological site with rare Buddhist and Hindu relics.

  2. Mahamuni Buddhist Temple – A revered pilgrimage site housing a golden Buddha statue.

  3. Maitree Bridge at Sabroom – The newly built India-Bangladesh connectivity landmark.

  4. Sepahijala Wildlife Sanctuary – Missed the chance to spot the endangered spectacled langur (Phayre’s leaf monkey).

Later Discoveries:
I also learned about two lesser-known but equally captivating wildlife sanctuaries:

  • Trishna WLS (Famous for Indian bison and migratory birds)

  • Gomati WLS (Home to elephants and rare flora)

Official details: Tripura Forest & Wildlife Resources

Note : These sites deserve at least 2 extra days—especially for wildlife enthusiasts!

 (https://forest.tripura.gov.in/forest-wildlife-resources.html)


Alternative Itinerary: Agartala as Your Base

Many travelers opt for a more relaxed approach, using Agartala as their base and taking day trips to nearby attractions. While this plan offers convenience, note that Dumboor Lake may not be feasible due to its distance , if you plan to visit other places on that day.

Pros of This Plan:

✔ Less packing/unpacking
✔ Easier access to urban amenities

Cons:

✖ Misses remote gems like Dumboor Lake and Jampui Hills
✖ Longer daily travel times to farther sites


Chronological order

Followers