Tripura Trails: Where Hills and Heritage Hail - A Journey Near Our Roots in Comilla
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Tripura,one of India’s most culturally rich yet lesser-explored states, holds a deep historical connection with Bengali heritage, the Mizo tribes and Rabindranath Tagore. As we embark on our five-day journey, we will explore ancient rock-cut sculptures, pristine lakes, Buddhist archaeological sites, hilltop villages, experiencing the blend of Hindu, Buddhist and indigenous Tripuri influences.
Nestled in India’s northeast, Tripura is a land of lush hills, rich culture, and fascinating history. With 8 districts covering 10,491 sq km, it has a population of 4.1 million (2024 est.). The state is bordered by Assam and Mizoram, while 84% of its boundary (856 km) is shared with Bangladesh—making it a key cross-cultural hub. Neermahal Palace is Just 50 km from Comilla (Bangladesh), this stunning "Lake Palace" was built by King Bir Bikram Kishore in 1930.
As of 2024, Tripura has 8 districts. Here’s the complete list with key highlights:
Districts of Tripura
West Tripura
Headquarters: Agartala (state capital)
Key Attractions: Ujjayanta Palace
South Tripura
Headquarters: Belonia
Key Attractions: Pilak archaeological site, Bhubaneswari Temple.
Dhalai
Headquarters: Ambassa
Key Attractions: Dumboor Lake, Gandacherra Wildlife Sanctuary.
North Tripura
Headquarters: Dharmanagar
Key Attractions: Jampui Hills
Khowai
Headquarters: Khowai
Key Attractions: Chabimura (rock carvings)
Sepahijala
Headquarters: Bishramganj
Key Attractions: Sepahijala Wildlife Sanctuary (spectacled langur),Neermahal
Gomati
Headquarters: Udaipur
Key Attractions: Tripura Sundari Temple (one of the 51 Shakti Peethas), Gomati Wildlife Sanctuary.
Unakoti
Headquarters: Kailashahar
Key Attractions: Unakoti’s ancient bas-relief sculptures (7th–9th century).
Cultural Tapestry
19 Indigenous Tribes in Tripura : The Tripuri (or Borok people) are the largest tribal group, followed by Reang, Jamatia, Chakma, Lushai and others. Pre-1947, Tripura was 70% tribal (Tripuri, Reang, etc.), today, Bengalis dominate (60% of 4.1 million). Manikya" became a caste marker for Tripuri Hindus.
The 19 Tribes of Tripura are:
Languages: Bengali (dominant, spoken by 60%) and Kokborok (the Tripuri language, written in Bengali script/Roman . We have generally seen Kokborok written in Bengali script in signboards. Normally 3 languages are written on a signboard - English, Bengali and Kok-borok
Historical Layers
Bengali Influence: Migrations surged during the partition (1947) and Bangladesh Liberation War (1971), shaping Tripura’s demographics.
Once a proud princely state ruled by the Manikya dynasty for over 500 years, Tripura merged with India only on October 15, 1948 — a year after Independence. Maharaja Bir Bikram Kishore Manikya (last ruling king) was known for progressive reforms like roads, schools and a legislature, but his sudden death left his widow, Maharani Kanchan Prava Devi, to navigate Partition’s chaos. The airport is named after Maharaja Bir Bikram Kishore Manikya.
Yet, post-1947, geopolitical pressures (Partition’s refugee influx and proximity to East Pakistan - over 600,000 Bengalis fled persecution ) led his widow, Maharani Kanchan Prava Devi, under pressure from India’s Home Minister Sardar Patel, the Maharani signed the merger to avoid Balkanization.
to sign the merger agreement. Unlike most princely states that joined India in 1947, Tripura’s integration was delayed due to Strategic deliberations (its 84% border with East Pakistan/Bangladesh) and the royal family’s initial hopes for autonomy.
Ujjayanta Palace (now the state assembly) and Neermahal (summer palace) symbolize the Manikyas’ golden age.
The Tipraha Indigenous Progressive Regional Alliance (TIPRA Motha), led by Pradyot Debbarma, advocates for:
Greater Tipraland – A separate state or autonomous council for Tripura’s tribes.
Constitutional Safeguards – ST status for all 19 tribes and protection of land rights.
Economic Empowerment – Jobs, education, and infrastructure in tribal areas.
Cultural Preservation – Revival of Kok-borok language and tribal traditions.
Political Representation – More seats for tribals in Tripura’s legislature.
TIPRA Motha emerged in 2021, capitalizing on tribal discontent over citizenship laws ( CAA/NRC fears - Bengali demographic shift) and Bengali demographic dominance. TIPRA Motha (Tipraha Indigenous Progressive Regional Alliance) has achieved significant electoral success since its formation in 2021, particularly in tribal-dominated areas. Their slogan "Greater Tipraland" resonated, promising autonomy akin to Bodo Territorial Council (Assam)
Tripura Legislative Assembly Elections 2023: They won 13 Seats and emerged as the second-largest party (after BJP), decimating the CPI-M and Congress in tribal belts.
Key Wins: Pradyot Debbarma (royal scion and party founder) won from Takwi-Jampui. Pradyot Debbarma’s lineage (Manikya dynasty) lent credibility. Animesh Debbarma (TIPRA Motha leader) became Leader of Opposition.
Lok Sabha Elections 2024: They won Tripura’s Tribal-reserved Seat (ST). Candidate Jubaraj Bhattacharjee secured victory, defeating BJP and Left Front.
Tagore’s Profound Bond with Tripura’s Royal Family
Rabindranath Tagore’s relationship with Tripura’s Manikya dynasty was one of mutual admiration and patronage, spanning generations. He visited the royal court seven times between 1899 and 1926, finding both artistic inspiration and political kinship.
Key Moments in the Tagore-Manikya Legacy
Maharaja Bir Chandra Manikya (1862–1896)
Recognized Tagore’s genius when the poet was just 20 years old (1881), years before his Nobel Prize fame.
Commissioned Tagore’s plays like Rajarshi (1887) and Bisarjan (1890), which explored themes of kingship and morality—likely influenced by Bir Chandra’s progressive rule (e.g., introducing secular courts and land reforms).
The king’s brother, Prince Durgamoni, was a close confidant of Tagore’s father, Maharshi Debendranath Tagore.
Earlier Ties: Dwarakanath Tagore’s Era
Maharaja Krishna Kishore Manikya (r. 1830–1849), Bir Chandra’s predecessor, knew Dwarakanath Tagore (Rabindranath’s grandfather).
Dwarakanath, a pioneering industrialist, likely engaged with Tripura’s royals through trade and cultural exchanges during Bengal’s Renaissance.
Royal Patronage & Creative Tributes
The Manikyas funded Tagore’s projects, including Visva-Bharati University. In return, he:
Dedicated poems like "Banglar Mati Banglar Jol" to Tripura.
Advised kings on benevolent governance (e.g., Maharaja Radha Kishore Manikya).
Ujjayanta Palace hosted performances of Tagore’s plays, blending Bengali and Tripuri culture.
Why It Matters
This alliance wasn’t just transactional—it shaped Tripura’s modern identity and Tagore’s vision of unity beyond borders. The poet’s letters reveal his awe for Tripura’s "hills that touch the sky," while the royals embraced his humanist ideals.
🗓️ Day 1: May 9, 2025 (Thursday) – Exploring Agartala
Our journey begins with an Indigo flight from Kolkata at 06:50 AM, arriving in Agartala, the capital of Tripura, at 08:10 AM. The city, founded by Maharaja Krishna Kishore Manikya in the 19th century, is a fascinating blend of royal heritage, spiritual landmarks, and modern vibrance.
We Checked-in at our hotel, freshen up and had breakfast.
🔹 Heritage Park (~1 hr) – A beautifully maintained green space offering a peaceful stroll through miniature of replicas of Tripura’s major landmarks. It reminded me of Madurodam of Netherlands. It is worth a visit.
🗓️ Day 2: May 10, 2025 (Friday) – Chobimura
This day takes us through Tripura’s rich historical and spiritual sites, including the stunning Neermahal (Lake Palace), Tripura Sundari Temple, and the mystical rock carvings of Chobimura, ending at the picturesque Dumboor Lake.
📌 Morning: Agartala to Neermahal
🔹 07:00 AM – Breakfast & Check-out from Agartala Hotel
🔹 07:30 AM – Drive to Neermahal (~1.30 hours) - A scenic drive through lush green landscapes & traditional Tripuri villages. We took the boat to visit Neermahal. It took almost 1.45 minutes to complete the whole process. It was built by Maharaja Bir Bikram Manikya in 1930, blending Mughal & Hindu architectural styles. It is India’s largest water palace, standing majestically in Rudrasagar Lake. it will remind you of Udaipur Lake Palace. Once a summer retreat for the Manikya dynasty, now an architectural wonder. A Ramsar-listed wetland, home to migratory birds & rich biodiversity. It is very near our ancestral home of Comilla. It was designed by British engineer Martin & Burn Co. (known for iconic projects like Kolkata’s Victoria Memorial).
🔹 11:00 AM – Drive towards Matabari / Tripura Sundari Temple
Tripura Sundari Temple (Matabari) : One of the 51 Shakti Peethas, believed to be where Sati’s right foot fell. Built by Maharaja Dhanya Manikya in 1501, the temple is over 500 years old.
📌 Afternoon: Chobimura Rock Carvings -
🔹 Enjoyed the scenic drive along the lush Gomati River valley. Chobimura is an ancient rock carvings of Hindu deities, etched onto towering cliffs by the river. It features a 60-ft-high carving of Goddess Durga, a unique form of rock art in Eastern India. Breathtaking views of the green hillocks & river gorge. We had a boat ride. The Boat ride costs Rs 1750 per boat for a 1 hour boat ride. It was quite pleasant.
🔹We had our lunch stop at a local eatery at Chobimura.
📌 Evening: Dumboor Lake
🔹 16:30 PM – Drive to Dumboor Lake (~2 hours) - A beautiful journey through forests & remote villages. Dumboor is named after Lord Shiva’s damru (drum), this serene lake has 48 scenic islands. Surprisingly, even in Agartala, few locals seem to know about this hidden gem.
When we Checked-in at Sudhir Chakma's Sunset View Homestay, it is already evening. The facilites were very basic.
A Challenging Yet Scenic Stay at Narkel Kunja, Dumboor
The heat and humidity at Narkel Kunja Homestay were relentless, with not a whisper of wind to offer relief. Nights were particularly grueling—the ceiling fan spun sluggishly until the hosts replaced its capacitor in both the rooms, finally restoring some comfort. Just as we began to settle, a gentle breeze swept in late at night, bringing fleeting respite.
Despite the basic amenities (no AC, minimal facilities), the view from the homestay was breathtaking—a serene lakeside landscape that almost made up for the discomfort.
For travelers seeking AC options in Dumboor:
Aisha Homestay (Narkel Kunja) – Facebook link . There is no Lake view though. But it is near the resort.
Narkel Kunja Island Resort – Booking link
A raw but rewarding escape—for those who prioritize nature over luxury. However I would highly recommend Narkel Kunja Island Resort. There is a nice view of the Lake from the Resort.
📍 Dinner & Overnight Stay at our Sunset View Homestay at Narkel Kunja, Dumboor Lake🗓️ Day 3: May 11, 2025 (Saturday) – Dumboor to Jampui Hills
Tripura’s only hill station, Jampui Hills, is home to the Mizo tribes, who migrated centuries ago. Vanghmun is regarded as the cleanest village in Tripura, offering pristine natural beauty and rich cultural heritage.
📌 Morning: Drive to Jampui Hills from Dumboor.
🔹 16:30 AM – Arrive at Jampui Hills
Jampui Hills: Tripura’s Scenic Crown Jewel
Perched as the highest hill range in Tripura, Jampui Hills offers cool, pleasant weather and unparalleled panoramic vistas. From our stay, we marveled at the Blue Mountains of Mizoram melting into lush, endless valleys—a view so vast it felt like nature’s own amphitheater. Most of the people here are Christians.
We chose MJ Homestay, run by a warm Mizo family at the highest point, guaranteeing unobstructed sunrise and sunset views. However, the rooms are extremely basic—barebones amenities with minimal comforts.
For a better stay, I’d recommend:
Eden Tourist Lodge (Government-run) – More reliable facilities. There is apparently a sunset view point.
SS Homestay – Balances comfort with local charm.
Jampui’s beauty is undeniable, but pick your stay wisely to match your travel style—rustic adventure or relaxed comfort.
🔹Overnight Stay at MJ Homestay
🗓️ Day 4: May 12, 2025 (Sunday) – Unakoti
A Morning in Jampui Hills: Church Bells and Cultural Harmony
We began our day by visiting the local church, a heartwarming glimpse into the Mizo community’s Christian traditions. The village, home to the Lushai and Reang tribes, radiated quiet harmony—until Debashree, curious and unaware, tugged at the church bell rope.
Within moments, the entire village spilled out of their homes, alarmed, thinking an emergency had struck. An elderly lady gently scolded her, explaining that the bell was reserved for urgent calls—a lesson in local customs we wouldn’t forget!
The mishap, though awkward, revealed the tight-knit bonds of this hillside community, where even a bell’s ring carries weight.
📌 Morning: Journey to Unakoti
🔹 14:00 AM – Arrive at Unakoti – "The Lost Hill of One Less than a Crore". It is one of India’s most mystical & ancient Shaivite pilgrimage sites.Unakoti, meaning "one less than a crore", features thousands of rock-cut carvings dating back to the 7th–9th century AD. This site is believed to have been carved by a sculptor-saint who was cursed by Lord Shiva.
📌 Midday: Exploring the Unakoti Rock Carvings
🔹 14:00 hrs – Start exploring Unakoti
- Witnessed the colossal 30-ft-high carving of Lord Shiva's face (Unakotiswara Kal Bhairava).
- Admired the stunning carvings of Ganesha, Durga on a lion, Nandi bull, and other Hindu deities.
🔹 We had to skip Saica falls for paucity of time.
📌 Return to Agartala
🔹 04:30 PM – Depart for Agartala (~4.5 hours, 160 km). The road to Agartala was very bad.
🔹 08:30 PM – Arrive in Agartala & Check-in at Hotel
🔹 09:00 PM – Dinner at a Local Restaurant
- Could not find the Tripuri specialties like Mui Borok or Bamboo Shoot Curry.
📍 Night Halt: Agartala
🗓️ Day 5: May 13, 2025 (Monday) – Departure
For our 5 days exploration of Tripura, we opted for a hired Ertiga (Agartala Airport to Agartala Airport) at ₹18,000, inclusive of fuel and driver. A few key logistical highlights:
Driver & Stay: Our skilled driver, Dipak, was a reliable navigator of Tripura’s winding hills and tribal villages. We covered his lodging costs —a common practice for long tours.
Local Expertise: The itinerary was crafted by Mr. Subhajit Choudhury, a physics teacher and Tripura native, whose insights transformed our route into a cultural deep dive. His knowledge of offbeat stops (Jampui and Dumboor) proved invaluable.
Why This Worked:
Cost-Effective: At ~₹3600/day for a 7-seater, splitting this among 5 travelers would be economical.
Flexibility: Unlike cabs or buses, this allowed impromptu halts for jackfruit feasts or cloud-chasing in Jampui Hills!
Pro Tip: There is no toll/parking charges in Tripura !
Places I Missed Due to Time Constraints
Despite careful planning, our tight schedule forced us to skip several remarkable destinations:
Pilak – An ancient archaeological site with rare Buddhist and Hindu relics.
Mahamuni Buddhist Temple – A revered pilgrimage site housing a golden Buddha statue.
Maitree Bridge at Sabroom – The newly built India-Bangladesh connectivity landmark.
Sepahijala Wildlife Sanctuary – Missed the chance to spot the endangered spectacled langur (Phayre’s leaf monkey).
Trishna WLS (Famous for Indian bison and migratory birds)
Gomati WLS (Home to elephants and rare flora)
Official details: Tripura Forest & Wildlife Resources
Note : These sites deserve at least 2 extra days—especially for wildlife enthusiasts!
(https://forest.tripura.gov.in/forest-wildlife-resources.html)
Alternative Itinerary: Agartala as Your Base
Many travelers opt for a more relaxed approach, using Agartala as their base and taking day trips to nearby attractions. While this plan offers convenience, note that Dumboor Lake may not be feasible due to its distance , if you plan to visit other places on that day.
Pros of This Plan:
Cons:
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