Friday, February 28, 2025

Drama in Burma - land of thousand Pagodas

10.04.2025	Reachig Yangon by Indigo from Kolkata (1835 hrs) by MYANMAR AIRWAYS INTL - 8M-608	21:25 Hrs
10.04.2025	Stay in Yangon – 1d in Y	Night Halt – (NH) Yangon-1
11.04.2025	Day halt in Yangon-2d in Y	Night Halt – (NH) Yangon-1
12.04.2025	Yangon to Bagan -1d in B	NH Bagan-1
13.04.2025	Day halt in Bagan -2d in B	NH Bagan-2
14.04.2025	Day halt in Bagan -3d in B	NH Bagan-3
15.04.2025	Bagan to Inle -1d in I Stay in Ny-aung-shwe-1d	NH Inle-1
16.04.2025	Inle - 2d in I Stay in Ny-aung-shwe-2d	NH Inle-2
17.04.2025	Indein and Inle - 3d in I	NH Inle-3
18.04.2025	Inle to Kalaw Kalaw - 1d	NH Kalaw
19.04.2025	Kalaw to Yangon	NH Yangon	(Tkt enclosed)

20.04.2025 Leave Yangon ( 1645 Hrs ) by

MYANMAR AIRWAYS INTL - 8M-607

and leave for Kolkata 1735 Hrs

Myanmar at a Glance

Official Name: Republic of the Union of Myanmar (formerly Burma)
Capital: Naypyidaw (since 2005; Yangon was the capital until 2006)
Area: 676,578 km² ( more than 7.5 times the size of West Bengal)
Population: ~54 million (2024) or 5.4 Crore ie little more than half of West Bengal
GDP per capita: ~$1,400 USD (2023, World Bank) vs 2700 USD of India
Currency: Kyat (MMK); 1 USD ≈ 2100 {and 4,000 MMK (black market rate)}
Religion - 88% Theravada Buddhism, 6% Christian, 4% Muslim and 0.5% Hindu
Visa :

1. Consulate Visa (in Kolkata - it is opposite GST Bhawan, one stop from Acropolis Mall)

Processing Time: 3 business days (including date of submission)
Documents Required:

Application form.
Passport (valid ≥6 months).
Digital passport-sized photo.
Travel insurance not compulsory. I did not do it
Flight, itinerary and accommodation proof of 1st day.
Fees – 40 USD

2. Visa on Arrival (VoA)

Validity: 30-day stay, issued at international airports
Processing Time: Issued upon arrival (no prior application).
Documents Required:

Passport (valid ≥6 months).
Return ticket and accommodation proof.
USD 50 fee paid in cash at the airport. One of my friends did it.He told me it took only 15 minutes.

3. Myanmar e-Visa (Tourist)

Tourist e-Visa: Single entry, 28-day stay
I read from a blog it does not save time and money

Myanmar's Colonial Timeline
1. 1824–1885
  - Gradually annexed by Britain through three Anglo-Burmese Wars.
  - Became a province of British India in 1886 after the fall of Mandalay.
2. 1937: Separation from British India
  - Under the Government of Burma Act 1935, Burma was administratively split from India (effective April 1, 1937).
  - Became a separate British colony with its own government, though Britain retained control of defense/foreign policy.
3. 1942–1945
  - Japanese occupation during WWII; the Burma Independence Army (led by Aung San) initially allied with Japan.
  - Britain reoccupied Burma in 1945.
4. January 4, 1948: Full Independence
  - Negotiated by Aung San (assassinated in 1947) and Prime Minister U Nu.
  - Left the British Commonwealth and became the Union of Burma.

It happens only in Myanmar !

1.Long-Neck Giraffe womon: Padaung Women: Indigenous Kayan communities in Shan State practice brass coil neck rings, a cultural tradition dating centuries

2. Nat Worship: A syncretic tradition blending animist spirit worship with Buddhism. Shrines to nats (guardian spirits) often coexist with Buddhist pagodas

3. Over 2,200 surviving temples from the 9th–13th century Pagan Kingdom, such as Ananda Temple (1091 CE), blending Indian stupa designs with Burmese innovation in Bagan in a 104 Sq Km area.

4. Unofficial Currency Exchange: Due to economic instability, a thriving black market for kyat (MMK) exists, with exchange rates often double the official rate (e.g., 4,300 MMK/USD vs. 2,100 MMK/USD). In fact in KBZ Pay app of KBZ Bank, the rate shown is 3560 MMK /USD. KBZ Pay app is Myanmar's leading mobile wallet application, by Kanbawza Bank (KBZ Bank), the country's largest privately-owned bank. It enables users to perform a variety of financial transactions directly from their smartphones. e.g. make payments at participating merchants by scanning QR codes, Send and receive money instantly to other KBZPay users.

5. Floating Markets and village : Inle Lake’s floating gardens and villages rely on hydroponic farming, where crops grow on soil anchored to bamboo rafts

6. Thanakha is a traditional cosmetic paste made from ground bark of the Thanakha tree (Limonia acidissima ), used exclusively in Myanmar for centuries. It’s a quintessential part of Burmese culture, especially for women and children. At least 80% woman apply this regularly.

7. Betel nut ("Kun-ya") holds a distinct cultural and social role in Myanmar unlike anywhere else. Probably every 3rd person or sometimes every second person chews betel nut or Paan !

8.The most well-known traditional dress in Myanmar is the longyi, a sarong-like garment worn by both men and women. Men wear a longyi called a "paso," while women wear one called a "htamein". The longyi is a staple of Burmese culture, worn daily due to its comfort and suitability for the humid climate.Around 70-80% people wear it.

It is pronounced as lone-jee.

Generational Divide:

Older generations (50+): 60-70% still chew regularly
Middle-aged (30-50): About 40-50%
Youth (under 30): Maybe 10-20%
Urban youth are abandoning it fastest Regional Hotspots:

Mandalay Region: Highest consumption (possibly 50%+ adults)
Yangon: More moderate (30-40%)
Remote villages: Can reach 70% among men

Why It Feels Like "Every Second Person":

Chewers are highly visible (red mouths, frequent spitting)

8. In Myanmar there is Right-Hand Drive (RHD=Steering wheel on vehicle's RIGHT side) while there is Right-Hand Traffic (RHT). 80% of Myanmar's cars are used RHD vehicles from Japan (where cars drive on left). Importers avoid costly conversion to LHD. Despite officially requiring LHD since 1970, corrupt officials allow RHD imports through "special permits".

Normally it is RHD with LHT : e.g. UK,India, Thailand,Japan

Myanmar (Burma) is administratively divided into 7 states and 7 regions, totaling 14 primary administrative units. Here's the breakdown with key details:
1. The 7 States
(Predominantly ethnic minority areas with partial autonomy)
Chin State
Kachin State
Kayin (Karen) State
Kayah State
Mon State
Rakhine State
Shan State
2. The 7 Regions
(Majority Bamar/Burmese population, central government control)
Ayeyarwady Region
Bago Region
Magway Region
Mandalay Region
Sagaing Region
Tanintharyi Region
Yangon Region
Naypyidaw: The capital is a Union Territory, not a state/region

Several border states in Myanmar operate with de facto autonomy under local ethnic armed organizations (EAOs) or militias, though their legal status remains contested by the central government. Officially Myanmar’s 2008 constitution grants "self-administered zones" to some ethnic groupsHere’s a breakdown:
1. States with Significant Autonomy
(a) Shan State
Controlled by:
Shan State Army-North (SSA-N) (political wing: Shan State Progress Party)
United Wa State Army (UWSA) (20,000+ troops; operates like a state within a state)
Autonomy Level:
UWSA runs its own government, schools, and currency in Wa Self-Administered Division.
Opened casinos and trade zones with China (e.g. Mong La).
(b) Kachin State
Controlled by: Kachin Independence Army (KIA)
Autonomy Level:
Collects taxes, issues ID cards, and manages roads.
Hosts jade mines (funding its operations).
(c) Rakhine State
Controlled by: Arakan Army (AA) (since 2020 ceasefire breakdown)
Autonomy Level:
Runs parallel courts, hospitals, and education in rural areas.
Engages in clashes with Myanmar Army over resource control.
(d) Kayin (Karen) State
Controlled by: Karen National Union (KNU)
Autonomy Level:
Manages border trade with Thailand (e.g., Myawaddy).
Operates refugee camps for displaced Karen people.
2. Legal vs. Reality
Officially: Myanmar’s 2008 constitution grants "self-administered zones" to some ethnic groups (e.g. Wa, Naga), but with limited powers.
In Practice: EAOs ignore central laws and enforce their own:
Taxation: UWSA (Shan State )
taxes businesses (even state-run ones).
Education: KIA ( Kachin State )
teaches in Kachin language, not Burmese.
Military: AA (Rakhine State)
produces its own weapons (drones, rifles).

10-Apr-2025: Arrival in Yangon

Our journey to Myanmar commenced with eager anticipation. We boarded our Myanmar Airways International flight from Kolkata at 18:35, arriving in Yangon by 21:25. Yangon, formerly known as Rangoon, served as Myanmar's capital until 2006 and remains its largest city. The city's skyline is dominated by golden pagodas, reflecting its rich Buddhist heritage. Upon arrival, we were greeted by Mr. Kan Win, our driver, and checked into the Hotel Grand Galaxy in Downtown Yangon at 22:30. Having dined on the plane and with local restaurants closed, we retired for the night. The hotel offered excellent value for money.

Meet the members

Our group for this thrilling adventure consists of 5 travellers:

Sourabh (the planner and narrator of this journey)
Arindam, Rumi and Arko
Subir

We arranged a car for our entire tour (Yangon to Yangon) at $1,000 for five people. This package included all toll taxes, a boat tour on Inle Lake, a sunset cruise in Bagan, and two liters of water per person daily. Our travel agent is Mutu Suresh — a Yangon-based 3rd generation Bihari : who had never visited India. Normally people of Indian diaspora adopt a Burmese name.

Accommodation: Hotel Grand Galaxy, Yangon

NH – Yangon ( Hotel Grand Galxy)

11-Apr-2025: Exploring Yangon

Yangon, Myanmar’s former capital (1824–2005), is a blend of colonial grandeur and Buddhist spirituality. The city’s skyline is dominated by the Shwedagon Pagoda, believed to house relics of four Buddhas, including strands of Gautama Buddha’s hair (legend dates its origins to 2,600 years ago, though historians place its construction between 6th–10th century CE).

As we drove through Yangon , I couldn't help but notice how smooth and well-maintained the roads were — just like in the rest of Myanmar. The streets were impressively clean, far cleaner than what I'm used to seeing in Kolkata and rest of India. It was a pleasant surprise, and it made moving around the city not only easy but genuinely enjoyable. We also (almost) did not see any people begging.

Before coming to Myanmar, one article which really influenced my decision was an article by Mukul Kesavan, in The Telegraph (https://www.telegraphindia.com/opinion/dream-of-sameness-myanmar-seems-to-aspire-to-a-cohesive-buddhist-idyll )

I reproduce part of it :

Arriving in Myanmar in early July (2014), I expected to find a country mothballed by decades of isolation, given that it was only in 2011 that military rule formally ended and the West eased its sanctions. I had cast Yangon in the role of an eastern Havana, complete with finned cars creaking through its streets like grumpy sharks. I found, instead, a solidly built colonial city with unbroken pavements, roads dense with late model Japanese cars and an air of quiet well-being.

The locals wore straw hats against the sun, most women wore square patches of pink-brown paste on their faces (Tanakha)and snugly wrapped laungyis and, as a token of Myanmar’s integration into the global economy, everyone accepted dollar bills so long as they came unfolded, uncreased and in large denominations. But given that home for me was the belligerent chaos of Delhi, it was the civility of everyday transactions that was striking.

A tourist’s generalizations based on car-borne observations aren’t worth much, but as we rushed around Myanmar, from Yangon to Bagan to Mandalay to Lake Inle, this sense of travelling amongst friendly, unpredatory people was reinforced.

Till 1937, Burma was administratively a part of British India, but Myanmar didn’t seem like India at all: the girls that tried to sell us things at tourist sites were happy to take no for an answer and carry on chatting and in a week’s worth of travelling I didn’t once see a man leaving his sign on a wall or against a tree. (In fact toilets were free and mostly spick and span)

Walking on the wooden boardwalk that borders Kandawgyi lake in Yangon, I noticed, as any desi would, the absence of plastic waste and assorted garbage. There was a sense of déjà vu about this because I remembered observing the same absence while travelling in Sri Lanka a couple of years ago and I felt the same sense of demoralization. How did a neighbouring country, not conspicuously more prosperous or ‘modern’ than India, manage to sidestep the insanitary squalor that is urban India’s defining brand and every Indian’s birthright?

....But if we suppress for a moment our instinct for self-loathing, the contrast between Burmese cleanth and Indian filth raises a real, if old-fashioned, question. Why do Indians lack the civic sense that would allow them to respect common spaces by not littering or peeing in public, and that, more generally, might help them be impersonally civil to strangers?

Travelling through Myanmar, it was tempting to locate this difference between ‘them’ and ‘us’ in religion and culture. The really startling difference between India and Myanmar is the extent to which faith seems to regulate and define society. This might sound like an odd thing to say given the pervasiveness of religious belief in India, but there is no equivalent in India to the massive presence of Buddhism in Burma’s public domain.

The skyline everywhere is defined by gilded pagodas and temples. This isn’t dissimilar to the ubiquity of churches in European cities, but unlike the churches of western Europe, these Buddhist sacred places aren’t relics of a religious past; they are living monuments to the Burmese enthusiasm for Theravada Buddhism.

The (iconic) Shwedagon pagoda’s courtyards and pavilions were crowded with worshippers but in a way that was different from the way people gathered in churches and temples and mosques. It wasn’t congregational nor were there intermediating priests; the faithful were sitting in ones and twos, either reading small religious texts or gazing intently at the Buddha images or ministering to small religious niches scattered around the campus. Pagodas and temples seemed part of the normal routine of daily life in Myanmar. I saw young couples in every pagoda, just sitting there, hanging out.

The pile-it-on redundancy of pagodas in Myanmar has to be seen to be believed. Between the 10th and the 13th century, in the great ruined city of Bagan, 10,000 pagodas and temples were built in an area about as large as Lutyens’s New Delhi. In Inthein, a small settlement off Lake Inle, literally thousands of Buddhist shrines lie higgledy-piggledy in various states of ruination, built on account of some spasm of faith in the 17th century and then inexplicably abandoned.

The belief that individuals, through acts of devotion and pagoda building and charity, can accumulate merit over a lifetime and inch closer to enlightenment, seems to shape life in a very public way. In Mandalay, at the Mahamuni Pagoda, I watched young men climb up a plinth till they were level with a larger-than-life Buddha image so that they could press squares of gold leaf on to its torso. The image was bulbous and swollen with the quantities of gold that had been pressed on to it over the years. In Mandalay there was a large cottage industry devoted to producing the gold leaf for which there was an insatiable market amongst the devout. Every Buddha image or pagoda spire of any consequence in Myanmar was slathered with 24 carat gold.

Monks in airport lounges were treated with great deference and they were always the first to board, ushered in by bowing flight attendants. We saw little troupes of monks wrapped in maroon, carrying their lacquer bowls, being given cooked food by lay believers at certain hours in the morning, everywhere in Myanmar. There was a solemn, yet practiced, routine to it. Every man in Myanmar is meant to set aside some time in his life during which he is meant to live the routines of a monk.

It’s tempting for the tourist to connect the enormous, structuring influence of Buddhism in Myanmar to the way in which its people set about their public lives: the civic discipline that keeps Burmese cities clean, the grace with which they deal with others. ...

And so does the government of that country. Myanmar is as Buddhist a nation as it is possible for its State to make it. Its military rulers have done everything they can to bolster this sense of Burma as a cohesive Buddhist idyll. Given that 80 per cent of Myanmar’s population is Buddhist, this wasn’t hard to do. For decades, then, the Burmese State has helped its Buddhist majority live out this dream of sameness, this ideal of a perfectly homogeneous Buddhist nation.

It is, of course, a fantasy, played out at the expense of those citizens of Myanmar who aren’t Buddhist. The day we arrived in Mandalay there was a nine o’clock curfew imposed because of communal riots between Buddhists and Muslims in that city. Christians in the Shan country resist what they see as the Buddhist majoritarianism of the Bamar people. A hundred thousand Rohingyas live in camps in Burma, classified as stateless, internally displaced people, denied citizenship and civic rights. Radical Buddhist monks lead campaigns of persecution against this Muslim community.

Pro-democracy activists who might have been expected to defend basic civil rights, are reluctant to recognize the Rohingyas as citizens of Myanmar. ...

Walking through the crowded streets of Yangon near the famous Scott Market, I notice a few Indian shops manned by familiar desi faces and the little knots of Muslim women, conspicuous in their burqas. They seem like marginal people, stragglers in this unselfconsciously Buddhist nation.

Abruptly, I feel a nostalgia for home; there mightn’t be much to be said for our country of public widdlers, but we have one great thing going for us: our claim on our nation isn’t founded on faith.

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The order in which we have seen, is given here -

Shwedagon Pagoda: Our day began with a visit to the iconic Shwedagon Pagoda, a 99-meter-tall golden stupa believed to enshrine relics of the Buddha. Walking barefoot on its marble floors, we observed monks chanting and devotees offering flowers, creating a serene atmosphere amidst the city's bustle. We spent 1.5 hours exploring the pagoda and its surroundings, guided by a local expert for 20,000 MMK (Kyat).

Kandawgyi Lake & Karaweik Palace: A short distance away, we found respite at Kandawgyi Lake, where the striking Karaweik Palace seemed to float over the water. The lake, once a reservoir during British rule, reflects Yangon's colonial past. We spent 45 minutes walking around the lake.

Tip: Karaweik Palace currently does not host cultural shows, but it's a pleasant spot for lunch or dinner.

Chaukhtatgyi Buddha Temple: We visited this temple, home to a 66-meter-long reclining Buddha. His peaceful expression echoed the tranquility we felt.

Bogyoke Aung San Market (Scott Market): A great place for shopping, offering a wide range of souvenirs, handicrafts, jewelry, and traditional Burmese clothing. Later I learnt that plumbing work of this market was done by Oriyas. Even today a manhole depicts the name of Behera&Co.

Tea near Sule Pagoda: We enjoyed tea at a restaurant suggested by a person of Indian origin near Sule Pagoda.

Colonial District Walking Tour: After lunch, we embarked on a walking tour from Sule Pagoda through the Colonial District, where Yangon's history came alive through its grand old buildings— City Hall, St. Mary's Cathedral, The Telegraph Office, Supreme Court Building, Myanmar Port Authority Building, the Strand Hotel, Customs House. These architectural relics whispered tales of British rule and Myanmar’s independence in 1948. We spent 2 hours exploring this district.

Durga Bari of Rangoon: We visited this temple and met some Bengalis who have never visited India. Very near to this is St. Mary's Cathedral.

Ramakrishna Mission Building: We saw the building where Aung San Suu Kyi used to visit.

Hindu Temple (Kali Bari): Currently under reconstruction, we met some Nepali and South Indian individuals here.

By 19:00, we concluded the day with dinner at a restaurant near our hotel, indulging in local flavors.

Tip: Try Mohinga, a traditional fish noodle soup.

Difference between Stupa, Pagoda, Monastery, Temple :

Structure	Relics?	Enterable?	Monks Live There?	Example in Myanmar
Stupa	Yes	No	No	Shwedagon (Yangon)
Pagoda	Yes	Partial	Sometimes	Shwezigon (Bagan)
Temple	No	Yes	Rarely	Ananda (Bagan)
Monastery	No	Yes	Yes	Mahagandayon (Mandalay)

**1. Stupa ( Zedi in Burmese)**

Purpose: Houses relics (e.g., Buddha’s hair, teeth) or sacred texts.
Design:
- Bell-shaped dome (e.g., Shwedagon in Yangon).
- Topped by a hti (umbrella spire).
- No interior space (solid structure).
Example: Bagan’s Shwezigon Pagoda (a stupa colloquially /wrongly called "pagoda")

**2. Pagoda (Phaya)** (Temple is often called Phaya)

Purpose: A stupa complex with auxiliary buildings.
Design:
- Central stupa + surrounding monasteries.
- Often includes multiple stupas, prayer halls and shrines.
- May have interior corridors for circumambulation (e.g., Ananda Temple in Bagan—though called a "temple," it functions as a pagoda).
Example: Shwedagon Pagoda (in Yangon - a stupa surrounded by a vast sacred precinct).

**3. Temple (Phaya or Kyaung)**

Purpose: A hollow building for worship, meditation
Design:
- Interior space with altars, murals, and Buddha statues.
- Often attached to monasteries (e.g., Sulamani Temple in Bagan).
Key Difference between Stupas and Temple : Temples are enterable, stupas are not.

**4. Monastery (Kyaung)**

Purpose: Housing monks, teaching Buddhism, and community activities.
Design:
- Living quarters, meditation halls, and libraries.
- Often adjacent to temples/pagodas
Note: Unlike temples/pagodas, monasteries focus on daily monastic life, not relics.

Here are some of the most significant mudras (hand gestures) of the Buddha, each symbolizing a particular aspect of his teachings and spiritual journey

1. Dhyana Mudra – Gesture of Meditation

Description: Both hands rest on the lap, right hand over the left, with palms facing upward and thumbs touching, forming a triangle.
Symbolism: Represents concentration and the attainment of spiritual perfection.
Common Depiction: Often seen in seated meditation postures, especially in statues from the Gandhara and Sarnath regions.buddha-images.com+1buddhanet.net+1

2. Bhumisparsha Mudra – Earth-Touching Gesture

Description: Right hand reaches down to touch the earth, while the left rests in the lap.
Symbolism: Signifies the moment of the Buddha's enlightenment under the Bodhi tree, calling the Earth to witness his realization.
Common Depiction: Widely represented in Southeast Asian art, particularly in Thai and Burmese sculptures.Wikipedia

3. Abhaya Mudra – Gesture of Fearlessness

Description: Right hand is raised to shoulder height with the palm facing outward and fingers extended upward.
Symbolism: Conveys protection and the dispelling of fear.
Common Depiction: Frequently found in standing Buddha statues across various cultures.buddha-images.com+1Wikipedia+1Getty Images+1buddha-statues.info+1

4. Varada Mudra – Gesture of Giving

Description: Right hand is extended downward, palm facing outward, fingers pointing down.
Symbolism: Represents charity and the granting of wishes.
Common Depiction: Often seen in standing Buddha images, symbolizing benevolence.buddha-images.com+1Wikipedia+1Wikipedia+1buddha-images.com+1

5. Dharmachakra Mudra – Turning the Wheel of Dharma

Description: Both hands are held in front of the chest, with the thumbs and index fingers forming circles.
Symbolism: Denotes the Buddha's first sermon at Sarnath, symbolizing the teaching of the path to enlightenment.
Common Depiction: Associated with seated Buddha images, particularly in Tibetan and Indian art.buddhanet.net+1Wikipedia+1Wikipedia

6. Vitarka Mudra – Gesture of Teaching

Description: Hand is held up with the palm outward, and the thumb and index finger form a circle.
Symbolism: Indicates transmission of knowledge
Common Depiction: Seen in both standing and seated Buddha statues, especially in East Asian art.Wikipedia

7. Karana Mudra – Gesture of Warding Off Evil

Description: Hand is raised with the palm facing outward, and the index and little fingers extended.
Symbolism: Used to expel negative energies.
Common Depiction: Less common.buddha-images.com

8. Namaskara Mudra – Gesture of Greeting

Description: Palms are joined together in front of the chest.
Symbolism: Expresses respect and prayer.
Common Depiction: Common in devotional images and during rituals.
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NH – Yangon ( Hotel Grand Galxy)

12-Apr-2025: Yangon to Bagan : Bagan – Land of a Thousand Temples

We departed for Bagan at 8:30 hours, arriving at 20:00 hours. There are two routes to Bagan: one through Naypyidaw, which is usually faster but currently has a collapsed bridge, and another through Pyay, which is operational but longer. We chose the Naypyidaw route. The highway was monotonous, with few people or houses. We stopped at a KFC for lunch, the only proper food stop along the route. Due to the bridge's partial collapse, we were delayed by an hour.

Upon arrival, most restaurants were closed. There was no street lighting, and a power outage persisted until 23:00 hours. Our hotel's generator was turned off after 23:00 hours.

NH – Bagan

13-Apr-2025: Bagan – Land of a Thousand Temples

Bagan, founded in the 9th century, was the capital of the Pagan Kingdom (849–1297 CE), the first unified kingdom in Myanmar. At its height between the 11th and 13th centuries, it was home to over 10,000 Buddhist temples, pagodas, and monasteries. Today, around 2,200 of these religious structures remain, scattered across the Bagan plains. To explore this magnificent landscape, we hired a local guide for the full day at 50,000 MMK (approximately Rs. 1,000).

Since Arko had vomited the night before, both Rumi and Arko decided to rest and skip the day's tour.

Our exploration of Bagan’s spiritual heritage included the following highlights. The order in which we have seen, is given here -

Ananda Temple (built in 1105 CE)
Often regarded as the most beautiful and revered of all Bagan’s temples, Ananda Temple was commissioned by King Kyanzittha of the Pagan Dynasty. It is renowned for its symmetrical layout, Mon-style architecture, and four standing Buddha images facing each cardinal direction.
Upali Thein (13th century)
A small ordination hall (thein) named after the monk Upali, this structure is notable for its preserved frescoes depicting Jataka tales (stories of the Buddha’s past lives) and daily monastic life.
Htilominlo Temple (built in 1211 CE)
Commissioned by King Htilominlo (also known as Nandaungmya), this red-brick temple is famed for its elaborate plaster carvings and majestic spires. It stands as a remarkable example of late Bagan architecture.
Sulamani Temple (built in 1183 CE)
Constructed by King Narapatisithu, Sulamani Temple is known for its balanced proportions and interior frescoes. We climbed the Sulamani mound nearby, which offered us a panoramic view of the Bagan plain. The setting was so mesmerizing that we decided to return here for sunset.
Lunch in a Nearby Village
After a spiritually enriching morning, we stopped for lunch in a small village, experiencing local hospitality and simple Burmese cuisine.
Dhammayangyi Temple (built circa 1167 CE) and Shwesandaw Pagoda (built in 1057 CE)
- Dhammayangyi: The largest temple in Bagan, it was built by King Narathu, who ruled briefly and met a violent end. The temple is infamous for its massive structure and mysterious, sealed inner corridors.
- Shwesandaw Pagoda: Built by King Anawrahta, the founder of the Pagan Empire, to enshrine sacred Buddha relics from India. It used to be a prime sunset viewpoint, but climbing is now restricted for preservation.

We returned to Sulamani mound for sunset, but the cloudy sky muted the spectacle. Later, we tried another nearby sunset spot, East O Htein Taung, which turned out to be rather underwhelming. However, we discovered an unnamed sunset point about 1 km further away that offered a stunning and serene view, making it one of the most memorable moments of the day.

NH – Bagan

14-Apr-2025: Bagan – Land of a Thousand Temples

The hot air balloon ride over Bagan has unfortunately stopped. I'm not sure whether it has been discontinued from March onward or altogether. So, one bucket list experience remains unticked! The breathtaking aerial view of over 2,000 ancient pagodas and stupas would have been truly surreal.

We began our day by visiting the temples and sites we had missed earlier. The journey continued through the mystical plains of Bagan, revealing more of its rich history and cultural depth.

Sites Visited:

Dhammayazika Pagoda (late 12th century) – Built by King Narapatisithu in 1196, this lesser-visited but serene temple is known for its pentagonal floor plan and offers panoramic views of the surrounding area.
Local Village Visit – We explored a nearby village where we witnessed traditional weaving techniques and the hand-rolling of cheroot cigars—a local specialty still made with age-old methods.
Paya-Thon-Zu Phaya (13th century) – Meaning “Three Pagodas,” this complex features three interconnected shrines with exquisite frescoes reflecting Mahayana and Tantric influences.
Tayok Pyi Hpaya (13th century) – Built by King Anawrahta’s grandson, this large temple offers impressive upper terraces and a commanding view over Bagan’s plains.
Nanda-ma-nya Hpaya – A small temple, but renowned for its detailed frescoes and murals, giving insight into daily life and Buddhist teachings in ancient Bagan.
Abeyadana Hpaya (11th century) – Commissioned by Queen Abeyadana, this temple features rare Mahayana and Hindu imagery alongside traditional Theravāda Buddhist art.
Nan Hpaya (11th century) – Known for its unique sandstone carvings, this Hindu-influenced temple was likely built by the captive Mon King Manuha, blending Mon and Bagan styles.
Manuha Temple (11th century) – Said to have been built by the Mon King Manuha during his captivity, the tight chambers with massive Buddha statues symbolize his feelings of confinement and suffering.
Gubyauk Gyi Temple (early 12th century) – Famous for its beautifully preserved frescoes, this temple was built by Prince Yazakumar and offers insights into early Bagan mural art.
Mingalar Zedi (late 13th century) – One of the last great temples built before the Mongol invasion in 1287. It is admired for its symmetry and terraced design.
Thatbyinnyu Temple (mid-12th century) – The tallest temple in Bagan at 61 meters, built by King Alaungsithu. It’s a symbol of classical Bagan architecture and spiritual ambition.
Gawdawpalin Temple (early 13th century) – One of the grandest and tallest temples in Bagan, rebuilt after suffering damage during the 1975 earthquake. It stands as a majestic presence against the sky.
Bupaya Pagoda (originally 3rd century, rebuilt in 1975) – Perched along the Irrawaddy River, this stupa is believed to be one of Bagan’s oldest. Though the original was destroyed in an earthquake, the reconstructed version remains a popular scenic spot.

Evening:

We ended the day with a cruise on the Irrawaddy River, observing the temples from the water. While the experience was tranquil, it wasn't particularly exceptional.

Our final attempt to catch a sunset led us to the Bagan Viewing Tower, officially known as Nann Myint Tower. Built in 2005, this 61-meter-high steel and concrete structure offers panoramic views over the Bagan Archaeological Zone, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Sadly, rain disrupted our plans and we arrived just after it had closed.

NH – Bagan

15-Apr-2025: Bagan to Inle Lake

Sunrise at Nann Myint Tower

I rushed to catch the sunrise from the Nann Myint Tower, though sadly, my friends didn’t join me. The tower opens at 5:30 a.m., and I was the only tourist there! I left my hotel at exactly 5:30 a.m. and arrived shortly after. Unfortunately, the sunrise was not spectacular due to overcast skies. However, the panoramic views of Bagan's temple-studded plains were exactly what I had come to Myanmar to witness. This is truly the place to admire the vastness and grandeur of the Bagan Archaeological Zone. I paid 20,000 MMK (approximately USD 5 at the unofficial exchange rate of 4,000 MMK per dollar).

Journey to Mount Popa

After a quick breakfast at the hotel, we departed for Mount Popa at 8:30 a.m.

Our first stop was a sandalwood forest and a golden deer sanctuary—meant to showcase Myanmar’s natural heritage. Sadly, it was not very impressive and felt like a detour.

We then proceeded to Mount Popa, an extinct volcano and one of Myanmar’s most important spiritual sites. Rising dramatically from the surrounding plains, Mount Popa is revered as the abode of the 37 "nats" (traditional guardian spirits in Burmese animism). Atop a volcanic plug known as Taung Kalat, the golden Popa Taung Kalat Monastery is perched at a height of around 1,518 meters (4,980 feet) above sea level.

The 777-step climb to the summit was exhausting but rewarding, offering sweeping views of the countryside. The path was lined with curious monkeys, many of them attempting to snatch water bottles and snacks. One of them even managed to steal a water bottle from Arindam!

Arrival in Nyaung Shwe / Inle Lake

By the time we reached Nyaung Shwe, it was already late—the sun had just set. We had a simple but satisfying dinner at the nearby night market, soaking in the relaxed vibe of the lakeside town.

Inle Lake, nestled in the Shan Hills, is one of Myanmar’s crown jewels. Located in Nyaung Shwe Township, Shan State, it is the country’s second-largest lake, covering an estimated 116 km². It also ranks as one of Myanmar’s highest lakes, situated at an elevation of 2,900 feet (880 meters) above sea level.

During the dry season, the average depth is about 7 feet, with the deepest point being 12 feet.
In the rainy season, the water level can rise by an additional 5 feet.

The lake is surrounded by rolling hills and dotted with floating villages, stilted homes, and floating gardens, making it one of the most picturesque places in the country.

NH – Inle (Ny-aung-shwe)

16-Apr-2025: Inle Lake- Floating Villages & Padaung Ladies

A Day on Inle Lake

We headed to the jetty in Nyaung Shwe and boarded a boat for a full-day tour of Inle Lake, one of Myanmar's most scenic and culturally rich destinations.

Our journey began with the floating gardens, an extraordinary example of local ingenuity. These gardens are built on floating beds of hyacinth and mud, anchored by bamboo poles. This unique hydroponic agriculture has been practiced by the Intha people for centuries, allowing for year-round cultivation of tomatoes, cucumbers, and other vegetables.

We then stopped at a local market, which rotates among villages in the region on a five-day cycle. These vibrant markets are the heartbeat of Inle’s trade culture, offering everything from fresh produce to handmade crafts.

One of the highlights was visiting a village renowned for its traditional weaving techniques, especially garments made from lotus stems and cotton—a labour-intensive process that results in delicate and rare fabric. We picked up a few beautiful handicrafts here as souvenirs.

In Napam village, we witnessed traditional boat-building techniques and the rolling of cheroots, Myanmar’s local cigars. These crafts have been handed down through generations and remain a vital part of the village economy.

A significant spiritual stop was the Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda, considered the most sacred religious site around Inle Lake. The pagoda houses five small Buddha images, so richly covered in gold leaf that their original forms are no longer visible. The site is also central to the Phaung Daw Oo Festival, held annually during the Burmese month of Thadingyut (around October), where the Buddha images are taken around the lake in a royal barge.However, the pagoda is off-limits to tourists due to damage

Sadly, our boatman pointed out several lesser-known pagodas and homes that had recently been damaged by an earthquake. Around 10–15% of the houses in certain villages, had suffered visible destruction. These areas are not usually part of the tourist trail, except for the fully/partially-destroyed fisherman’s village.

Because of this, we missed seeing the famous Intha fishermen in action. These skilled fishermen are known for their unique one-legged rowing technique, where they balance on one leg while using the other to row—a method developed to navigate through the dense floating vegetation of the lake. Early mornings are typically the best time to witness this iconic scene, but unfortunately, the damage had made such visits impossible.

In the afternoon, we continued our lake exploration and visited the Nga Phe Kyaung Monastery, famously known as the Jumping Cat Monastery. Though the cats no longer perform tricks, the monastery remains an interesting wooden structure built on stilts in the mid-19th century, housing a collection of Buddha images and antiques.

Later in the day, we met the Padaung women, also known as the long-neck women of Myanmar. Belonging to the Kayan ethnic group, they are known for their cultural practice of wearing brass neck coils—starting from childhood—which gives the illusion of elongated necks. Their tradition, though controversial, has become symbolic of Myanmar's ethnic diversity. We chatted with them and picked up some souvenirs from their handicraft stalls.

We returned to Nyaung Shwe by 4:30 p.m., and cooled off with some ice cream. There, we met a friendly young woman from Kalaw, a mountain town known for trekking. She was the first fluent English speaker we encountered in days, and we had a refreshing conversation. She’s a trekking guide, familiar with Couchsurfing and hitchhiking, offering us a glimpse into modern Burmese youth culture and the adventurous spirit of Kalaw locals.

NH – Inle (Ny-aung-shwe)

17-Apr-2025: Inle Lake – Indien & Sunset at Vineyard

Since there wasn't enough water on the northern side of Inle Lake, we couldn't take a boat through the lake’s tranquil canals to reach Indein Village. Instead, we travelled by car—a journey of approximately 1.5 hours. We were told that by next month, this area would again be navigable by boat, once the water levels rise.

Indein Village, often referred to as a “hidden gem” of the Inle region, is famed for its ancient forest of stupas, many dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries, with some possibly even earlier, from the Shan and Pagan periods. These stupas, many in ruins and partially overtaken by vegetation, create an eerily beautiful and mystical landscape—evoking strong "Indiana Jones" vibes. You can call it “a poor man’s Bagan” due to its dramatic and atmospheric setting without the crowds or grandeur.

We spent over 1.5 hours wandering through the stupas, soaking in the silence and the rich sense of history. Then we returned to Nyaung Shwe, arriving around 2:30 p.m..
After a short rest at the hotel, we headed out again at 3:30 p.m., this time to the Red Mountain Vineyard & Winery, just outside Nyaung Shwe. This is one of the few wineries in Myanmar, located on a scenic hill with sprawling views over Inle Lake and the surrounding countryside.

Although Myanmar is not typically associated with wine production, this vineyard was founded in the early 2000s, using imported vines from France and Spain. The cool climate of Shan State makes it suitable for cultivating grapes, and the site has become a popular sunset destination. We enjoyed the breathtaking sunset over the lake—a perfect way to end the day.

➡️ Optional Additions to Your Itinerary:

Kakku Pagodas (Half-Day Trip from Inle)
If time allows, consider visiting Kakku, located about 2.5–3 hours from Nyaung Shwe by car. This lesser-known complex contains over 2,500 stupas, many of which date back to the 16th century, built by the Pa-O ethnic group. The symmetry and sheer number of stupas in one place create a mesmerizing sight.
Alternative: Add Hpa-An or Golden Rock (Kyaiktiyo Pagoda)
If you're looking to venture off the beaten path, consider trimming one day from Mandalay or Inle, and instead add a quick visit to:
- Hpa-An – Known for its surreal limestone caves, lush scenery, and Mount Zwegabin.
- Golden Rock (Kyaiktiyo Pagoda) – A major pilgrimage site with a gilded boulder balancing on a cliff edge, believed to be held in place by a strand of the Buddha’s hair. This site dates back to at least the 11th century, though the legend is likely older.

NH – Inle (Ny-aung-shwe)

18-Apr-2025: Inle Lake to Kalaw – The Hill Station of Myanmar

We left Inle for Kalaw at 8:30 a.m. and reached by 1:00 p.m., making a few stops along the way, including a bustling local market and an interesting monastery. After a quick lunch, we began our Kalaw city tour.

Kalaw, a former British hill station established in the British colonial era (1890s), sits at an elevation of 1,300 meters (4,265 feet) in the Shan hills. Its cool climate, pine forests, and colonial charm make it a peaceful retreat from the lowland heat.

🌿 City Tour Highlights

Hnee Paya (500-Year-Old Bamboo Buddha)
This revered Buddha image, believed to be over 500 years old, is made from woven bamboo and lacquered over. It is considered one of Kalaw’s most sacred and mystical relics.
Shwe Oo Min Pagoda – The Golden Cave Temple
A limestone cave filled with thousands of Buddha images donated by pilgrims. It’s a serene and spiritual place that has been in use since at least the early 20th century and is still expanding.
Colonial Heritage Walk
We explored remnants of British architecture, including:
- Christ the King Church – built by Italian missionaries in the 1930s, it stands as a symbol of Kalaw’s multicultural roots.
- Old British Mansions – scattered through the pine-covered hills, offering glimpses into the town's colonial past.
City Viewpoint
We hiked to a popular viewpoint that offered a panoramic view of Kalaw’s green hills and red-roofed buildings.
Aung Chan Tha Pagoda
A peaceful temple with beautiful golden stupas and views of the surrounding hills.
Sanatan Dharma Mandir (Hindu Temple)
Serving the Indian Hindu community since colonial times.
Sikh Gurdwara
A humble place of worship built by Sikh workers brought in by the British, particularly during the early 20th century for railway construction.
Mosque
Another testament to Kalaw’s diverse heritage — many Muslim traders and settlers arrived during the colonial period.
Indian Talkies House (Restaurant)
A great stop for sampling Indian-Burmese fusion cuisine that reflects the long-standing Indian presence in Kalaw.
Sites We Missed
Unfortunately, we couldn’t visit the Myin Ma Hti Cave Pagoda or the nearby tea plantations due to time constraints.

📝 Travel Tips for Kalaw

Hire a Local Guide: For trekking, guides charge around 15,000 MMK (~5 USD) for a half-day tour. Their local insights can really enrich your experience.
Dress in Layers: Kalaw mornings and evenings can be chilly.
Don’t Miss: The famous Kalaw avocado salad – the region is known for producing creamy, delicious avocados.
Tea Experience: Stop at Lily’s Tea House or a local tea farm to explore Shan tea culture, stroll through tea gardens, and buy some freshly packed loose-leaf tea.

Optional Activities (Time Permitting)

Thein Taung Hill Monastery Hike
A short 10-minute drive followed by a 30-minute hike brings you to the Thein Taung Monastery, offering sweeping views of Kalaw. Ideal for sunset or early morning.
Drive to Pwe Hla Village
A scenic drive through rural Shan landscapes — perfect for those wanting to experience village life away from touristy spots.
Seven Sisters Restaurant (recommended for Indian-Burmese fusion) or Red House (famous for wood-fired pizza) are great dinner options.

NH – Kalaw

19-Apr-2025: Kalaw to Yangon

We left for Yangon at 8:30 a.m. and arrived at around 7:30 p.m., taking the same long and rather monotonous Mandalay–Yangon Expressway, a route originally opened in 2010 to connect Myanmar’s two major cities quickly, though often criticized for its bland scenery and lack of infrastructure.

To save time, we didn’t stop for lunch — instead, we simply munched on snacks we had packed in our bags.

After reaching Yangon and checking into our hotel, we found that the nearby supermarket eatery was already closed. However, after much polite pleading, the kind staff agreed to prepare burgers for takeaway, which became our late but much-needed dinner.

NH – Yangon (Agga Hotel)

20-Apr-2025: Farewell to Myanmar

Our day began with a visit to the tomb (Dargah) of the last Mughal emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar, who died in exile in Rangoon (now Yangon) on November 7, 1862. After the failed Indian Rebellion of 1857, he was captured by the British and exiled to Burma. His tomb, along with that of his wife Zeenat Mahal and one of his grandsons, lies in a modest but revered mausoleum tucked away in the city. It was a poignant reminder of the fall of an empire and the quiet end of a once-glorious dynasty. Here, we also settled our final payment with our travel agent, Mutu Suresh—a Yangon-based 3rd generation Bihari who had never visited India. He brought his son along to meet us. They know Hindi !
We had some time for last-minute shopping at the popular Bogyoke Aung San Market, originally built in 1926 during British colonial rule and formerly known as Scott Market. It’s one of the best places in Yangon for handicrafts, jewelry, and souvenirs — we picked up some fridge magnets to remember our journey. Just beside it stands the Holy Trinity Cathedral, an Anglican church completed in 1894, showcasing British colonial architecture.
We then visited the St. Mary’s Cathedral, the largest cathedral in Myanmar. Designed by Dutch architect Jos Cuypers, it was completed in 1899 and features impressive red brickwork and stunning stained-glass windows — a true architectural gem in the heart of Yangon.
A quick stop at Inya Lake, a tranquil alternative to the more popular Kandawgyi Lake, offered a moment of calm before our departure. The lake, created during British rule in the late 19th century as a water reservoir, is now a peaceful spot for walks and is also known for being near the home of Aung San Suu Kyi.

Due to lack of time, we had to skip the People’s Park and Square, a popular green space located near Shwedagon Pagoda, offering beautiful views of the iconic stupa and a pleasant escape from the city buzz.

Finally, we headed to Yangon International Airport to board our Myanmar Airways International flight at 16:45, bidding farewell to the land of golden pagodas, serene lakes, and warm hospitality — a journey filled with culture, history, and unforgettable experiences.

Friday, February 28, 2025

Myanmar's Colonial Timeline

1. The 7 States

2. The 7 Regions

1. States with Significant Autonomy

(a) Shan State

(b) Kachin State

(c) Rakhine State

(d) Kayin (Karen) State

2. Legal vs. Reality