England , Wales and Scotland Tour - 2025
26.09.25 (Fri) Kolkata > Doha : Doha > Gatwick ✈️ >Pinsbury Park (Rs 61,591 with return fare per person)
Departure Time (03 50 hrs) CCU - Qatar Airways
Arrival Time (06 35 hrs) DOH
Departure Time (08 15 hrs) DOH - Terminal N - Qatar Airways
Arrival Time (13 25 hrs) Gatwick Airport London North (LGW) - By Thameslink Train (~£12-£15) - Spot booking
[ alternate option : Southern Train (~£15-£18) /Gatwick Express (£20-£25) ]
Departure Time (01 00 hrs) - London Victoria - SDG - National Express - https://www.omio.com
Arrival Time (05 40 hrs) - Cardiff - SDG
https://maps.app.goo.gl/Dn81yj3yKyppFJbf8 - Cardiff Tour
Departure Time (09 15 hrs) - Cardiff - SDG - Flix Bus
Arrival Time (10 40 hrs) - Bristol - SDG
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Departure Time (20 00 hrs) - Bristol (All) - National Express
Arrival Time (22 45 hrs) - Londn (All)
Night Bus to Edinburgh (from London Victoria Coach Staiton)
Departure Time (23 59 hrs) London Victoria Coach Stn - Flix Bus
Arrival Time (08 15 hrs - 30.9) Edinburgh Bus Stn
30.09.25 (Tue) Edinburgh (from Edinburg Bus Station) - Walking tour - Night Halt at Edinburgh
Departure Time (07 30 hrs) Castle Terrace outside NCP Park, Edinburgh (Timberbush)
Arrival Time (20 05 hrs)
02.10.25 (Thu) Day Tour of Scotland : St Andrews & the Fishing Villages of Fife >Edinburgh
Departure Time (0930 hrs) Gate J & Gate K, Edinburg Bus Station,St Andrews Sq (Rabbie's)
Arrival Time (00 00 hrs)
Night Bus to Machester (from Edinburg Bus Station - St Andrew Square)
Departure Time (22 00 hrs) Edinburg Bus Station, Elder Street - National Express
Arrival Time (04 00 hrs) Manchester Coach Stn, Chorlton Street
03.10.25 (Fri) Manchester>York>Manchester - Day Tour to York (Flix bus with return tkt) - Night Halt at Manchester
Departure Time (06 50 hrs) Manchester Shudehill Interchange - Flix Bus
Arrival Time (09 00 hrs) York Memorial Gardens - Leeman Road
Departure Time (18 24 hrs) York Stop RJ, Opposite Rail Station Road - National Express
Arrival Time (21 30 hrs) Manchester Coach Stn, Chorlton Street
04.10.25 (Sat) Manchester>Windermere & Lake Distric tour > Manchester - Night bus to London
Departure Time (08 15 hrs) Coach Parking Bays, Store Street,Manchester (Rabbie's)
Departure Time (02 50 hrs) Manchester Shudehill Interchange -Flix Bus Arrival Time (07 10 hrs) London Finchley Road
05.10.25 (Sun) London>City tour of Baker Street>Regent Park>Lords>Picadally Circus>St Paul's Cathedral>Tower Bridge - Night Halt London (meet Mita)
06.10.25 (Mon) London>Canterbury Tour >London - Night Halt London
Departure Time (08 30 hrs) Victoria Coach Station (Evan Evans Tours)
Arrival Time (19 00 hrs) Victoria Coach Station
Night Bus to Gatwick
Arrival Time (01 45 hrs-7/10) Gatwick Airport London North (LGW)
07.10.25 (Tue) London Victoria (National Express)>Gatwick >Doha : Doha CCU
Departure Time (09 00 hrs) LGW - Qatar Airways
Arrival Time (19 00 hrs) DOH
Departure Time (18 40 hrs) DOH - Qatar Airways
Arrival Time (02 20 hrs) CCU
Step-by-Step: From UK Visa Website to VFS for Biometric Appointment
1. Start on the official UK Government Visa Website (unlike Schengen, where you need to go VFS website first - at least, that was the case till 2024)
2. Create an Id & Fill in the Application
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Complete the online visa application form (e.g., Visa Application Form VAF).
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Upload basic information, travel history, employment, accommodation in UK, etc. You can change it n number of times, but once submitted, you cannot change it. If you wait too long, then you will be logged out. In that case you have to log in again, but your data will be saved till the last entry made. So in other words you fill up in multiple days.
You have to upload the documents online. If you opt for lounge facility, by paying Rs 5000 ~ more, then you dont have to upload it.
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Pay the visa fee online by card (for a standard 6-month tourist visa, approx. GBP 115).
3. Submit the Application Form
4. Redirect to VFS Global for Appointment
6. Choose Appointment Centre
Select Kolkata as your Visa Application Centre (located at: VFS Global Services, Rene Tower, Kasba, Rajdanga Main Road, Kolkata 700107)
7. Choose a Time Slot and Optional Services
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Premium Lounge. For this you have to pay Rs 5000 ~ extra.
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SMS updates
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Document scanning at the centre
Often, available time slots are shown only for lounge customers, making it feel like a subtle push toward paying extra. I forced to apply for lounge, since the time slot for free service was not readily available. As a result I did not upload the scanned documents.
8. Pay for Optional Services (if selected) : You’ll be asked to pay for any selected services in INR. This is separate from the visa fee already paid.
9. Print the Appointment Letter : After confirming your slot, download and print your appointment letter. This is mandatory for entry into the VFS office
Documents to Carry to VFS Kolkata for UK Tourist Visa
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Appointment letter (from VFS site)
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Printed UK visa application form with barcode (PDF from gov.uk)
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Passport (original + all old passports if available)
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Photograph (as per UKVI specs; though they usually take biometric photo at VFS). It was not required for me, since I opted for Lounge facility.
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Cover letter explaining your travel plan and personal background (to The High Commissioner, British Deputy High Commission, 1A, Ho Chi Minh Sarani, Kolkata - 700071, West Bengal, India )
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Hotel bookings for the stay in UK
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Bank statements (last 6 months, stamped preferably)
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Income Tax Returns (last 2-3 years)
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Salary slips (if applicable)
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Employer NOC / Leave letter (if employed)
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Property documents or financial proof (optional but helpful)
Know England
Quick Profile
1. GDP and Per Capita Income:
England is part of the United Kingdom, which has one of the world’s largest economies.
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GDP (UK): Around USD 3.4 trillion (2025 est.).
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GDP per capita (UK): About USD 50,000, while India’s is roughly USD 2,900.
So, the average English person earns around 18 times more than the average Indian in GDP terms.
2. Area and Population:
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England’s area: ~130,000 sq. km.
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West Bengal’s area: ~89,000 sq. km. So, England is about 1.5 times larger than West Bengal.
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Population: ~57 million (2025 est.), while West Bengal has ~100 million.
3. Major Industries:
Historically, England was the birthplace of the Industrial Revolution. Today, it is more service-oriented, though industry still matters.
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Key sectors: Finance (London), technology, manufacturing (automobiles, aerospace), education, pharmaceuticals, and tourism.
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Historic centres:
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Birmingham & Manchester: heavy industry and innovation.
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London: global financial capital.
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Liverpool: maritime trade
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4. Religion:
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Christianity is the major religion (mainly the Church of England, Protestant).
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Small but growing communities of Muslims, Hindus, Sikhs, Jews, and Buddhists due to immigration.
5. Ethnicity:
Modern England is ethnically diverse.
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Majority: White British (~75%).
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Minorities: Asian British (mainly Indian, Pakistani, Bangladeshi), Black British, and people of mixed heritage.
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Large immigrant populations from South Asia, the Caribbean, Africa, and Eastern Europe have shaped England’s cultural identity.
Around 4000–2500 BC – Stonehenge and Early People
At first, people in Britain lived by hunting animals and gathering plants. Later, new people called Neolithic farmers arrived. They knew how to grow crops and keep animals, so they started living in permanent villages instead of moving around.
These farmers began to build Stonehenge. First (around 3100 BC), they dug a big circular ditch with holes. Later (around 2500 BC), they brought in huge stones — some from faraway Wales — and set them up in the circle we see today.
Nobody knows for sure why they built it. Some say it was a calendar to track the sun, others think it was a temple for ceremonies, and some even joke it could have been a giant meeting or feast place.
43 AD – Romans on the Scene
122 AD – Hadrian’s Wall
410 AD – Romans Leave, Darkness Falls
Meanwhile, Wales and Scotland developed their own distinct identities.
From the Roman perspective, the Anglo-Saxons were considered less civilized because they didn’t have Roman-style cities, roads, or centralized government. But they had their own laws, warrior traditions, and farming systems. In fact, their culture laid the groundwork for the English language and early English kingdoms.
8th–10th Century – The Vikings Arrive
Around the year 793 AD, men from Norway and Denmark (the Vikings) started coming to Britain in long ships. At first, they came as raiders — they attacked places like the monastery at Lindisfarne, stealing treasure and scaring people.
But after some time, the Vikings didn’t just raid — they began to settle and live in Britain. They took over large parts of northern and eastern England, an area that became known as the Danelaw.
In Scotland, Viking settlers made a big impact, especially in the islands (like the Orkneys and Shetlands). Over time, they mixed with the local people, so Viking culture and Scottish culture blended together.
So, the Vikings were not only fighters — they also became farmers, traders, and settlers, controlling big parts of Britain for many years.
In 851, the Danish Vikings attacked England. Saxon King Alfred spent 25 years fighting them, retaking lost land, and rebuilding the city. After his victory, the Saxons enjoyed a time of peace and prosperity.
However, the Vikings kept coming back. In 1016, they finally took control and made one of their own a king, with London as their capital. Later, in 1042, Edward the Confessor, a Saxon who was friendly with the Vikings, became king. He built Westminster Abbey, which is still famous today.
1066 AD – The Norman Takeover
In 1066, the King of England, Edward the Confessor, died without children. This created a international power struggle for the English throne. Several men wanted to be the next king. One of them was Harold Godwinson (an English noble), and another was William the conqueror, Duke of Normandy (from France).
Harold became king first, but William said: “No, I was promised the crown!” So William gathered an army, crossed the sea from France, and fought Harold at the Battle of Hastings. Harold was killed in the battle (a story says he was shot in the eye with an arrow).
After winning, William became king. People called him William the Conqueror. He brought many changes: he built castles everywhere to control the land, he made the nobles speak French, and he set up a new system where the king owned the land and gave it to his followers (this is called feudalism).
This event changed England forever — it mixed French and English culture and shaped the country’s future.
1296 AD – Scotland Strikes Back
Two famous leaders stood out: William Wallace ( Braveheart movie fame - which won Oscar) and later Robert the Bruce.
Wallace fought bravely but was captured and executed.
Then Robert the Bruce took charge.
In 1314, Robert the Bruce won a big victory against the English at the Battle of Bannockburn. After more years of struggle, in 1328, Scotland’s independence was officially recognized, and Robert the Bruce was accepted as King of Scotland.
The lesson: Scotland might be small compared to England, but it was fiercely independent and very hard to conquer.
1536–1543 – Wales Joins the Club
Think of union of Wales and England as a “merger and acquisition” rather than a friendly handshake.
1536 – Henry VIII vs. the Pope
This set England on a Protestant path, dissolved monasteries, and caused centuries of religious conflict. Moral of the story: don’t annoy a king who wants a new wife.
1603 – Union of the Crowns
1642–1660 – Civil War & Cromwell’s Republic
Oliver Cromwell chopped off Charles I’s head, and Oliver Cromwell ruled as Lord Protector. Britain was briefly a republic — though Cromwell was basically a king without a crown. It is somewhat analogous to Caesar. Both rejected the formal crown/title at first, but wielded near-absolute authority.
After his death, the monarchy was restored in 1660 under Charles II, because, frankly, people were tired of Puritan bans on fun. Cromwell was so grumpy that people actually missed having a king.
1707 – Act of Union - Scotland and England
Why did this happen?
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Scotland was not doing well financially (after a failed project to set up a colony in Panama called the Darien Scheme).
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England wanted Scotland on its side, especially to stop Scotland from teaming up with France (England’s enemy).
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By joining, Scotland got access to England’s trade and colonies (more money-making opportunities).
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England, in return, got political security.
So, it was like a business merger: England provided wealth and protection, Scotland brought loyalty and unity — and together they became Great Britain.
Prosperous London increased in size and importance. It survived 1665 Plague and 1666 Great Fire..
1746 – The Last Hurrah of the Clans
He led an army of Highland clans (groups of families from northern Scotland) against the English government. At first, they won some battles, but in 1746 at the Battle of Culloden, they were totally defeated. Prince Charlie ran away, never to return.
After this, the British government wanted to stop the Highland clans from rebelling again. They banned traditional clothing like tartan kilts, took away their weapons, and weakened the clan leaders’ power. This was the end of the old Highland way of life.
Bagpipes and Scottish pride survived — but the clans as powerful groups were gone forever.
18th–19th Century – Prime Ministers & Empire
Fun fact: Many of the great capitalists in India weren’t English but Scottish. So next time you sip a cup of Darjeeling tea, thank a Scot with deep pockets.
British royal traditions and titles
Prince of Wales
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Since 1284, the heir apparent to the English throne has traditionally been styled the Prince of Wales.
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It began when King Edward I conquered Wales and gave the title to his son, Edward of Caernarfon (later Edward II), as a way of cementing English dominance.
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From then on, the monarch’s eldest son (and heir apparent) is almost always invested as Prince of Wales.
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That’s why Charles was Prince of Wales, and when he married Diana, she became Princess of Wales.
After Elizbeth's death Charles who was Prince of Wales is now King Charles III
Why different titles for the sons (William & Harry)?
The monarch gives peerage titles (like Duke, Earl, Baron) to their children or grandchildren, especially on marriage. These titles carry history, land, and symbolism.
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Prince William (Charles & Diana’s elder son)
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On his marriage in 2011, the Queen gave him:
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Duke of Cambridge (main title, used with Catherine)
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Also Earl of Strathearn (Scottish title)
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Baron Carrickfergus (Northern Irish title)
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After Charles became King in 2022, Prince William currently holds 5 titles, but the way he uses them depends on the context:
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Prince of Wales – his main title as heir apparent (since Charles became King in 2022). Catherine is now Princess of Wales.
So today, he is best known as Prince of Wales.
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Duke of Cambridge – the dukedom he received from Queen Elizabeth II on his wedding in 2011.
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Duke of Rothesay – his traditional Scottish title (used in Scotland.William inherited his father’s Scottish title).
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Baron Carrickfergus – a Northern Irish title, bundled in with Cambridge when he married.
He also holds Earl of Strathearn (another Scottish title given at marriage).
Princess Catherine – Princess of Wales, Duchess of Cambridge
Prince Harry (younger son)
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On his marriage in 2018, the Queen gave him:
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Duke of Sussex (main title, Meghan became Duchess of Sussex)
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Also Earl of Dumbarton (Scottish title)
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Baron Kilkeel (Northern Irish title)
Meghan – Duchess of Sussex.
Prince Edward (Charles’s brother) – Duke of Edinburgh.
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Princess Anne – Princess Royal (a special lifelong title for the monarch’s eldest daughter).
The Logic Behind These Titles
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Prince of Wales = reserved for the heir to the throne.
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Dukedoms = usually given to male members of the royal family when they marry. Other princes (not first in line) get a Duke title on marriage.
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Regional balance = often, a Duke title comes with linked Scottish and Irish peerages to reflect the UK’s four nations (England, Scotland, Wales, N. Ireland). Extra Scottish/Irish titles are bundled in to cover all of the UK.
Day 0 & 1: Thursday & Friday, September 25-26 : Arrival in London
From Pujo Pandals to Paddington: Our Journey Begins
After soaking up the Durga Puja madness (thank you, MassArt — and yes, it was free this year!), we had already done our fair share of pandal hopping — minus the crowds. South Kolkata on the 19th, North Kolkata on the 20th — we intentionally skipped the opening day, the 18th, assuming most pandals wouldn’t be ready yet.
By the way, the term pandal actually comes from the Tamil word pandal! They use the same term in Burma too — and we got that confirmed by Viji.
On the 21st, we even managed to squeeze in a Bonedi Bari Puja at Badan Chand Roy’s ancestral house at Colootala near Zakaria Street — the kind that smells of old-world charm. It’s also part of the MassArt circuit.
This year, we were joined by our special guests from the USA — Viji and her husband Sudeep — brave souls who agreed to follow us through the chaotic streets of Kolkata. Viji speaks fluent Bengali, though she’s from Tamil Nadu and has never lived in Kolkata!
We hired a car from 9 PM to 5 AM for a modest ₹3,000 per day. By the end of those nocturnal rides, our driver knew more about Durga Puja themes than the artists themselves!
Fast forward to 25th September 2025 (Chaturthi / চতুর্থী) — Departure Day
We left home a little after 11.05 PM and, and reached the airport within an hour! Clearly, the city’s traffic gods were in a generous mood that night.
When the Qatar Airways counter opened at 12:50 AM, there was already a big queue. We decided to wait it out, and sure enough — after 45 minutes, the crowd magically disappeared.
Moral of the story: when a counter opens, let the early birds tire themselves out. The patient traveler gets the smooth check-in!
13:25 – Arrival at Gatwick Airport - 26th September, 2025, Friday
Our flight left Kolkata at 3:50 AM and landed in Doha at 5:50 AM (local time). After a quick connection, we departed Doha at 8:10 AM and touched down at Gatwick Airport around 1:15 PM.
But alas, the real marathon had just begun — it took nearly 40 minutes just to exit the aerobridge, followed by a serpentine queue at immigration. We finally emerged at about 2:50 PM. Gatwick is located in the southern part of England (Heathrow is in the north).
Gatwick Airport: North, South, and a Shuttle in Between
Gatwick has two terminals — North and South — connected by a free shuttle train (it’s a bit like Rome). We landed at North Gatwick and came to South Gatwick by the free shuttle train.
From touchdown to exit, it took us roughly 1 hour 35 minutes
i.e., 1:15 PM + 1 hour 35 minutes = 2:50 PM.
Consider that your new rule of thumb for big airports!
Into London: Thameslink to the Rescue
To stay budget-friendly, we took the Thameslink train — an overground line, not the Tube — departing at 3:46 PM. We bought the tickets at the station (there is no ticket counter) using our forex/credit card, and yes, the train had free Wi-Fi — a true blessing for WhatsApp updates and “we’ve landed safely” messages!
There is no Tube/underground rail that directly links Gatwick to the city centre (Victoria).
Fare: Around £13.50
Time: ~60 minutes
Route: Gatwick → Victoria → King’s Cross & St. Pancras → Finsbury Park
Tip: Buy tickets at the station or online (cheaper with a Railcard)
https://ticket.thameslinkrailway.com
Pro tip: Skip the Gatwick Express — it’s very expensive (more than £20). It is faster, but so is losing money at a casino.
We also noticed another train called Southern Express, but the frequency of Thameslink is much better.
We reached Finsbury Park at around 4:40 PM.
Airbnb Adventures: A Victorian Welcome
Our Airbnb was hosted by Eerke at 21 Stapleton Hall Road, N4 3QE — a charming Victorian terraced house, about a 12-minute walk from the Finsbury Park transport hub (next stop, Arsenal — for football fans, that’s sacred ground).
The house itself was a three-storey delight, suitable for two to three families, with sleeping space for six people.
Ground floor: A lovely drawing-cum-dining room
First & second floors: Three bedrooms
Bathrooms: One shower room (first floor) and one bathtub with commode (second floor)
We paid around ₹12,000 for the entire building.
Airbnb: Eerke – 21 Stapleton Hall Road, N4 3QE
https://goo.gl/maps/HWMZKnDWieKkqSr46
Getting Around London
By Tube
Finsbury Park has direct access to Victoria Station via the Victoria Line (light blue — named after the main station on this route). Travel time is about 23 minutes to Central London/Victoria Station. Alternatively, the Piccadilly Line (dark blue) also takes you there.
Pro tip: Victoria Station, Piccadilly Circus, King’s Cross, and Paddington are some of the most important stations in London.
By Bus
Bus No. 73 from Finsbury Park drops you at Marble Arch (Stop 14). From there, it’s about a 10-minute walk to Victoria Station.
Total time: ~50–60 minutesBus No. 29 drops you directly at Trafalgar Square.
Airport Connections Made Easy
London has 4 major airports — Heathrow, Gatwick, Stansted, and Luton. Conveniently, Finsbury Park connects to all of them via direct or one-change train routes.
Evening Reconnaissance
17:15 – We checked into our accommodation and were welcomed by Eerke, who is originally from the Netherlands. He gave us a full orientation of the house and explained how everything worked. By the time we freshened up and were ready to move, it was already 6:30 PM.
18:30 – Arindam and I went on a reconnaissance mission. The rest were too tired to move. We mapped the area, located the coach/bus station, Tube entrances, and — most importantly — supermarkets like Tesco and Lidl.
Our initial plan was to go to Victoria Station. There are two Tube/Metro lines particularly important for tourists in London:
Victoria Line (light blue, named after Victoria Station)
Piccadilly Line (dark blue, named after Piccadilly Circus)
Most major tourist areas are very close to the Victoria Line. If we take Bus 29, we can get down at Trafalgar Square, from where Victoria is not very far. But buses, though cheap, take quite a lot of time.
21:30 – Mission accomplished. We returned triumphantly with food from a nearby shop, proudly clutching our new £5 Vodafone SIM cards (We had wanted a Tesco SIM, but alas, none were available. It later turned out that choosing Vodafone was a bad decision.).
The food was delightfully cheap by London standards — I got a portion of biryani/herbed rice and five chicken wings for just £3.50! We bought wraps for Mohua — actually, two wraps are enough for three people.
Day 2: Saturday, September 27 Oxford, Stratford-upon-Avon & Cotswolds
Arindam and his family set off on a grand day trip covering Warwick Castle, Stratford-upon-Avon, Oxford University, and the Cotswolds with Evan Evans Tours — which we later learnt was spectacular! ( He learnt that during the Second World War, Hitler had supposedly instructed that the German Luftwaffe should not bomb Oxford. Although London was heavily bombed, Oxford survived in a rather remarkable way.)
Morning Start: Finsbury Park to Ickenham
Our day began around 8:00 A.M., as we left Finsbury Park for Ickenham to meet our childhood friend Samrat, a true London legend. We switched lines at King’s Cross & St Pancras (a very important junction) — from the Victoria Line (light blue) to the Metropolitan Line (purple — there is a lift here). To go to Heathrow, you need to take this line.
Samrat stays at Hoylake Crescent and has now lived in London for 30 years, wearing more hats than most people ever will:
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Actor (he played “Last Topshe” opposite Soumitra Chatterjee’s Feluda in a TV series)
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NHS doctor
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Psychiatrist
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Barrister
As it turns out, a flair for drama works wonders both on stage and in court!
He was staying at a hotel on 26th September to meet a school friend who had come to London. We waited for him on a bench, and despite a 1.5-hour drive to Ickenham Tube Station, he arrived with characteristic enthusiasm.
Oxford: A Personal and Emotional Visit
Our first stop was Oxford to visit my cousin Nabo (or Novo) — one of the primary reasons for this UK trip. He lives in a wonderful care home under the attentive watch of mostly Indian nurses. Each resident has a private room, with communal dining and lounge spaces.
Nabo didn’t speak, but he followed our poetry reading session (poems written by Nabo himself) intently, occasionally glancing at me. He brought the poetry book from his room. According to Samrat, his health is much better than a few months ago.
Sadly, I couldn’t meet my Aunt Kitty, who also resides in Oxford, due to her health.
Stratford-upon-Avon: In Shakespeare’s Footsteps
Next, we headed to Stratford-upon-Avon, Shakespeare’s birthplace. This charming town, named after the River Avon (think “Gopalpur-on-Sea”–style specificity — referring to it this way avoids confusion with other places named Gopalpur), feels like an English storybook — timbered houses, quaint shops, and a lingering scent of literature.
We visited Shakespeare’s Birthplace (entry: a dramatic £26) and caught a brief live performance. Interestingly, Shakespeare’s father was a successful glovemaker and eventually became a local bailiff. Nearby, his sister’s house is said to have witnessed some of his final days — he was very close to her.
We also explored the Royal Shakespeare Company building. (The Shakespeare’s Globe Company is in London, beside the Thames.) Stratford was dotted with statues of his iconic characters, and we even glimpsed a bust of Rabindranath Tagore inside Shakespeare’s home! Samrat acquainted us with Tudor architecture, and a small performance was also going on there.
Lunch: Fish, Chips, and Cultural Adjustments
We indulged in classic Fish and Chips at a famous restaurant (Barnaby's Fish) in Stratford, which, to my Kolkata palate, felt more like Fish Batter Fry with French fries (not chips) — still delicious, though quite different from home. Cod is the fish of choice, and the portions are extremely generous — difficult for one person to finish. Samrat did not allow us to pay.
After that, we went to the information centre, collected a map, and Mohua bought some souvenirs.
The Cotswolds: A Living Postcard
From Stratford, we journeyed to the Cotswolds, a region that looks like it was pulled straight from a postcard. Honey-coloured stone cottages, rolling hills, limestone-tiled roofs, and a charming stream — the River Windrush — often called the “Venice of the Cotswolds” — meandering through villages made the scenery unforgettable.
The nearby quarries supply the iconic stone. Cotswold stone is limestone, and roofs are traditionally made with stone slates. The stone varies slightly in shade from golden yellow to pale grey, depending on the quarry.
Major historic and active quarry areas include:
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Temple Guiting (Gloucestershire) — still active
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Taynton Quarry (Oxfordshire) — stone from here was used in St Paul’s Cathedral, London, and several Oxford colleges
We saw many North Indian and South Indian students, but hardly any Bengali students, which tells you something about the state of our economy. However, we did see a couple dressed in Bengali saris on the occasion of Durga Puja, and another person dressed in Dandiya dance attire.
Samrat did not get down at the Cotswolds, as he has visited the region many times.
The Cotswolds were a major wool-producing region in medieval England, known for high-quality wool. The English nursery rhyme “Baa, Baa, Black Sheep” was first printed in 1744, but many scholars believe it may allude to medieval wool taxation — especially the heavy wool tax introduced by King Edward I in the late 13th century. Under these tax rules, wool producers often had to give a large share of their wool or wool income to authorities like the king (1/3) and the Church(1/3) and farmer (1/3) , reflecting how important wool was to the medieval economy.
Oxford Again: Academia, Theatre and Anecdotes
Back in Oxford — a little late — Samrat shared his insider knowledge. Apparently, Cambridge leans more towards science and technology (with Amartya Sen once heading Trinity College, Cambridge), while Oxford shines in the arts and humanities.
Samrat, a theatre aficionado in his youth (he was a constant feature in theatre and drama in our neighbourhood, or পাà§œা), knew Amartya Sen’s daughter and occasionally accompanied her to Oxford and Cambridge. He did the last Topshe with Soumitra Chatterjee for a TV series. Her (Nandana’s) husband has a house in Oxford/England. Through her, Samrat even met Amartya Sen.
A dash of theatrical history: R. D. Bansal had once approached Samrat’s parents with an acting proposal during his school days, but his mother vetoed it because of a “drawing exam” — a decision Samrat claims he still hasn’t forgiven!
Libraries, Legends, and Late Evening Travel
Oxford and Cambridge follow collegiate systems with many individual colleges, and entry to most requires tickets. As it was the start of the academic year, campuses were buzzing with freshers.
Evening found us at Oxford’s historic centre, where we managed to see the Hertford College Library and Bodleian Library — one of Europe’s oldest libraries (founded in 1602) and continuously operating as a legal deposit library. (For context, the Library of al-Qarawiyyin in Fez, Morocco — founded in 859 CE — is often cited as the oldest continuously functioning library in the world.)
Nearby, we spotted a building where Shah Rukh Khan once acted, with North Indian students enthusiastically posing for photos — they were on a day tour.
Samrat kindly dropped us back at Ickenham by 7:30 P.M., and we reached Finsbury Park in roughly an hour.
Skipping Royalty and Catching Buses
We opted to skip Windsor Castle — £30 per head felt a bit too princely for our tastes, and logistically it didn’t fit our already royal-sized itinerary.
Since I had a 1:00 A.M. FlixBus to Cardiff, I left our Airbnb for Victoria Station at 11:00 P.M. Arindam and his family, Mohua, and the others wisely skipped this leg — a decision my sleep-deprived self silently thanked them for.
By 23:59 hours, I reached Victoria Coach Station.
Day 3: Sunday, September 28 – Cardiff , Bristol & Bath tour >Night Bus to Cardiff from London
1:05 AM – The Great Escape from London Victoria
I left London Victoria Coach Station at 1:05 AM by National Express, 5 minutes late, half-asleep, and fully confident that I would reach Cardiff smoothly. Naturally, life had other plans.
The bus first dropped me in Bristol, where I had to change to another coach for Cardiff. By the time I finally reached Cardiff at 5:40 AM, Wales seemed to have vanished. There was not a single soul on the streets—not even a stray dog to guide me on this Sunday morning. It was still dark when I arrived.
To make matters worse, my mobile data also decided to take a rest. Empty roads, no maps, and no people—an almost perfect recipe for a traveller’s nightmare.
Lost in Search of Cardiff Bay
My original plan was to go to Cardiff Bay, but I wasted a lot of time trying to find my way there. By the time I finally reached the Bay area, it was already too late. I did not have enough time to explore, so I abandoned the plan and headed instead towards Cardiff Castle.
I then wandered around the city for almost three hours, like a lost pilgrim, waiting for the city to wake up.
Cardiff: Where Even the Signboards Speak Welsh First
Everything in Cardiff—signboards, announcements, directions—comes with a Welsh accent. The signboards are written in both English and Welsh, and Welsh, for the record, is a completely different language, not a cousin or a distant relative of English.
Even the English pronunciation sounded so musical that I could barely understand about 30% of what was being said. The rest, I politely assumed, was important.
A Short Historical Note on Cardiff
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Cardiff became the capital of Wales in 1955
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Cardiff Castle dates back to Roman times (around 50 AD)
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The city experienced rapid growth in the 19th century as a major coal-exporting port
Cardiff Castle: A Missed Appointment
Cardiff Castle opens at 9:00 AM, and my FlixBus to Bristol was scheduled to leave at 9:15 AM—from right outside the castle. So all I could do was admire the outer walls and quietly tell myself, “Next time.”
Instead, I explored the nearby landmarks: the church, cathedral, clock tower, and Town Hall, before heading back to the bus stop.
Cardiff may have been quiet that morning, but it left a strong impression—one that deserves a proper return visit.
Back to Bristol: A Warm Welcome from Belen
I then left for Bristol, where I was warmly received at the bus stop by Belén—our Spanish friend whom I had met earlier in Kolkata—and her friend Raúl. Their timing was perfect, as always.
Without wasting a moment, they took me straight to Arnos Vale Cemetery, where Raja Ram Mohan Roy is buried. Quite by coincidence, his birth anniversary had been just two or three days earlier. I discovered this in the most unexpected way—while looking for the toilet—where a poster nearby announced a commemorative programme!
The poster mentioned that many Indians had come from London and Bristol to mark the occasion over the weekend, and that the event had even been covered by the BBC (by journalist Salma Haque). The memorial structure is described as a “Chhatri”, and indeed, it closely resembles the chhatris of Orchha. His name there is inscribed as “Raja Ram Mohan Roy Bahadoor.”
Historical Note: Raja Ram Mohan Roy in Bristol
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Raja Ram Mohan Roy died in Bristol on 27 September 1833
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His death anniversary was commemorated on 28 September 2025, as it fell on a weekend
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His memorial was financed by Dwarkanath Tagore, the grandfather of Rabindranath Tagore
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The memorial was designed by James Prinsep
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Raja Ram Mohan Roy is widely regarded as the “Father of the Indian Renaissance”
Why Bristol?
At the time, Bristol was one of the most important ports in Britain and a centre of international travel and trade.
Encounters at the Memorial
I met several people there, exchanged greetings, and listened briefly to their stories—before rushing again, because rushing seemed to be the theme of the day.
I met a lady with the surname Barua, and another English “memsahib” who turned out to be the great-great-granddaughter of Keshab Chandra Sen (of Brahma Samaj fame). One visitor had travelled all the way from Bath for the occasion.
Exploring Bristol at Lightning Speed
At a nearby bus stop, I noticed a poster about the Bristol Bus Boycott (1963)—a fitting reminder of the city’s social history. Inspired by the US civil rights movement, activists and local communities organised a boycott against the Bristol Omnibus Company, which refused to employ Black and Asian drivers.
The movement drew strong support from migrant communities, including the Sikh community. A notable figure was Sardar Pratap Singh Kalsi, who played a key role in mobilising resistance against the colour bar—proving that discrimination rarely survives collective resolve.
The policy was eventually withdrawn, and the boycott helped pave the way for the Race Relations Act of 1965.
A Whirlwind Tour of Bristol
Before leaving for Bath, Belén insisted on giving me a quick tour of Bristol. We first went to see the Clifton Suspension Bridge. The view from there was breathtaking and reminded me strongly of Cuenca in Spain. We walked across the bridge—something that is quite difficult to do without a car.
Next, we visited St Mary Redcliffe Church, one of Bristol’s most iconic landmarks. Built in the 13th–14th centuries, it is a magnificent example of Gothic architecture. We then stopped at Bristol Cathedral, originally founded in 1140 as an Augustinian abbey and elevated to cathedral status in 1542.
Finally, we went to the Harbour Area, where a lively farmers’ market was underway. We walked quite a bit and even enjoyed paella—both Morisco and Valencian varieties—by the harbour. A Spanish meal in an English port city, guided by Spanish friends: perfectly balanced. This time, it was my turn to treat them.
Historical Note: Bristol
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One of England’s oldest port cities, mentioned in records as early as the 1020s
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A major trading port in the 17th and 18th centuries
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Birthplace of the famous pirate Blackbeard (Edward Teach)
Bristol’s Dark Past: The Slave Trade
From the 17th to the early 19th century, Bristol was one of Britain’s three major slave-trading ports, alongside London and Liverpool.
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Between 1698 and 1807, Bristol ships transported an estimated 500,000 enslaved Africans across the Atlantic
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Bristol merchants profited from the Triangular Trade:
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Manufactured goods → Africa
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Enslaved Africans → Caribbean & the Americas
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Sugar, rum, tobacco → Bristol
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The wealth generated from this trade financed many of Bristol’s grand buildings and powerful merchant families.
Edward Colston and Public Memory
One of Bristol’s most controversial historical figures is Edward Colston, a major slave trader associated with the Royal African Company, which transported more enslaved Africans than any other British company.
For years, buildings, schools, and streets in Bristol bore his name. In June 2020, during the Black Lives Matter protests, his statue was pulled down and thrown into the harbour—a moment that drew global attention and forced the city to confront its past.
From Bristol to Bath: A Short Journey, A Long Wait
Bath is just 11–15 minutes from Bristol by train, though we chose to go by car. Mohua and Arindam were supposed to reach by 9:30 AM, but in true Indian style, they missed their bus and arrived fashionably late.
Once there, Bath immediately worked its charm—small, historic, beautifully preserved, and extremely walkable. Every corner looked like it belonged in a postcard.
Historical Note: Bath
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Established as a Roman spa town around 60–70 AD
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Known to the Romans as Aquae Sulis (“Waters of Sulis”)
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A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987
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Famous for the Roman Baths, Bath Abbey, and Pulteney Bridge
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Jane Austen lived in Bath for about five years, and the city features prominently in her novels
Established as a Roman spa town around 60–70 AD
Known to the Romans as Aquae Sulis (“Waters of Sulis”)
A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987
Famous for the Roman Baths, Bath Abbey, and Pulteney Bridge
Jane Austen lived in Bath for about five years, and the city features prominently in her novels
Wandering Through Bath
We explored the town centre with Belén and Raúl, stopped for coffee, and lingered a bit—until Belén gently but firmly dragged us forward, because, unsurprisingly, we were getting late again. They, of course, had been to Bath many times before and knew exactly what we could (and could not) afford to miss.
A Detour to Castle Combe
Belén then drove us to a lesser-known but breathtakingly beautiful village—Castle Combe, located in the Cotswolds and often described as one of the prettiest villages in England. With stone cottages, a quiet stream flowing through it, and a timeless atmosphere, it felt even more picturesque than much of the Cotswolds itself. There are a few charming homestays as well, making it a perfect place to slow down—though we, unfortunately, could not.
The Great Race Back to Bristol
Time was running out. We had to reach Bristol Bus Station to catch our coach back to London.
Belén drove like a Formula 1 driver, while Raúl sprinted ahead to make sure the bus didn’t leave without us. Meanwhile, Mohua and Arindam’s family was already waiting at the station, and we kept them updated on our whereabouts via Raúl’s phone.
We finally arrived at 8:01 PM—just one minute late, but close enough for relief all around.
Later, unfortunately, Belén received a £200 speeding penalty. Since this entire adrenaline-fuelled drama was partly because of me, I paid 50% of the fine, considering it my contribution to international friendship and emergency travel logistics.
Return to London: The Final Crawl
We reached London Victoria around 11:00 PM, completely exhausted. From there, we took the Tube to Finsbury Park, bringing an end to a long, frantic, but thoroughly memorable journey.
https://www.viator.com/tours/London/Cardiff-Day-Trip-from-London/d737-8754P12?utm_source=chatgpt.com
Day 4: Monday, September 29 – Walking Tour of Central London
Our day began—not very early—because we had finally slept well. Since we were a bit tired, we left after 10:00 AM.
At 11:30 AM, Mohua waited at the Airbnb for Sonali to pick her up, while the rest of us navigated the London Underground and reached Victoria Station, the gateway to our ambitious walking tour of Central London.
The TravelCard That Didn’t Make Sense
After some serious calculations, we realised that buying a TravelCard made no sense for us. You need to stay and travel continuously for several days to make it worthwhile.
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Tube fare (single journey): ~£7
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TravelCard cost: ~£50 (Zone 1-3) is valid for 7 days (Oyester Card is Pay as you Go - is a pre-paid card)
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Bus fare: £2 flat rate (best deal in London!)
The good news: You can simply tap in and tap out with a credit card—no tickets required!
The bad news: Arindam’s credit card refused to cooperate with London Tube gates more often than not.
Result? Buying tickets at stations, causing delays. Thankfully, there was a human selling tickets at Finsbury Park (a rare and comforting sight).
Forex cards, however, never failed. Lesson learnt.
Westminster: Where History, Politics & Our Photography Skills Met
Westminster Cathedral (1903)
Our first stop was Westminster Cathedral—not Westminster Abbey, though 99% of tourists confuse the two.
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Mother church of Roman Catholics in England & Wales
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Built in Byzantine style, very different from Gothic churches
Westminster Abbey (Founded 960 AD)
Next stop: the famous Westminster Abbey, the coronation church since 1066.
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Burial place of kings, queens, poets, scientists
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Coronations of all British monarchs since William the Conqueror
We skipped going inside after hearing the ticket price: £27 for one hour. Our legs were curious, but our wallets staged a protest.
Big Ben & Houses of Parliament
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Big Ben (1859) – technically the bell, not the clock
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River Thames flows quietly behind it
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Houses of Parliament (rebuilt after 1834 fire)- Where British politicians have been arguing politely since the Victorian era
We crossed Westminster Bridge, capturing the classic shot: Red double-decker buses + Big Ben + Abbey—Instagram satisfied.
A Gaza demonstration nearby reminded us that history and politics never sleep, even during sightseeing.
The Thames Cruise That Never Happened
A friendly Bangladeshi gentleman tried to sell us a Hop-On Hop-Off Thames cruise.
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Original price: £50
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Reduced price: £25
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Our response: serious nodding, intelligent questions, and “We’ll do it later.” (A tourist tradition older than the Roman Empire.)
He also suggested a Greenwich ferry stopping at the Tower of London (£18) and kindly guided us toward 10 Downing Street.
10 Downing Street & The King’s Life Guard
10 Downing Street (Since 1735)
Official residence of British Prime Ministers—visible only through railings, CCTV cameras, and very alert armed police.
Nearby, we saw the King’s Life Guard:
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Royal horses
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Dramatic uniforms
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Extremely serious faces
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Absolutely no smiling
Souvenir shopping followed, naturally.
From Trafalgar Square to Buckingham Palace
We passed through:
Trafalgar Square (1845) - Built to commemorate Admiral Nelson’s victory at the Battle of Trafalgar (1805).
Then marched towards: Buckingham Palace (1703). Official royal residence since 1837.
The Royal Sight Without the Royal Drama
The famous Changing of the Guard happens around 10:45 AM.
We arrived at 3:30 PM.
So naturally—we missed it.
But something unexpected happened.
👉 We actually saw King Charles leaving Buckingham Palace.
No sirens.
No shouting.
No running policemen.
Just a calm royal exit—something unimaginable back home.
Mohua and Sonali joined us here. While we waited for Mita, we received her message through Sonali: “Come to Trafalgar Square.”
St James’s Park to Trafalgar Square: A Green Escape
We walked through St James’s Park, one of London’s oldest royal parks:
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Created in the 1500s by Henry VIII
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Once used for royal hunting (probably more ducks than deer)
The road toward Trafalgar Square reminded me of Red Road back home.
At Trafalgar Square, beside the National Gallery (opened 1824), I enjoyed street music while waiting for Mita. I spotted people from Bangladesh, Tamil Nadu, North India, and finally borrowed a phone from a gentleman from Kerala to call Mita. Soon, Mita joined us along with Mohua and Sonali.
Bus No. 29 & Back to Finsbury Park
We boarded Bus No. 29, which took us straight to Finsbury Park. Mita came with us—this was special, as she had stayed in Finsbury Park when she first arrived in London. Being (just ) over 60, her bus and Tube rides are free—a truly civilized policy.
(We could have visited Leicester Square too—it was just a stone’s throw away.)
The Great Scottish Escape: FlixBus to Edinburgh
We reached our Airbnb at 7:30 PM. We had already checked out; our luggage waited obediently near the door. After spending some time chatting with Mita, freshening up, and saying our goodbyes to our host, we headed back to Victoria Bus Station.
We had dinner at Itsu, a chain restaurant inside Victoria Train Station:
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Food at half price
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Teriyaki Chicken: £3.75
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Thai food for Arindam
Trains in the UK are 3–6 times more expensive, so we chose the sensible traveller’s option—FlixBus.
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Free Wi-Fi
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Onboard toilet
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Smooth ride
Luxury, by budget standards.
Some travellers keep Scotland for the end of their trip because they fly out of Edinburgh instead of London.
Our Flix bus departed at 23:59 hours. We got the last seats. Normally, I avoid them due to my health—but thanks to excellent roads and suspension, I had no problems at all.
A Mistaken Route, Medieval Streets & A Whisky Experience We Avoided
— Our Edinburgh Adventure Begins
We reached Edinburgh Bus Station at 8:15 AM. After a sleepless overnight journey, our bodies had arrived — our souls were following by slow courier.
As expected, guided by destiny (and no mobile data), we took the longest possible route and wandered straight into Princes Street. At first, we thought this was a mistake. Later, we realised it was a gift from the travel Gods, especially for Mohua and Rumi, who would not get another chance to see this iconic stretch.
Sometimes, being lost is not a mistake — it’s a budget sightseeing strategy.
Along the way, we saw bagpipers in traditional Scottish dress, a completely normal sight in various places in Edinburgh. Think of it as the Scottish equivalent of Flamenco dancers in Granada — atmospheric and impossible to ignore.
Fun historical aside: At one point, the jute mills of Dundee (Scotland) were major competitors of the jute mills along the Hooghly River in Bengal — a forgotten industrial rivalry linking Scotland and India.
Castle Rock Hostel — Coffee Before Check-In, Civilisation Restored
Our hostel, Castle Rock, sits right beside the Royal Mile and is easily one of the best hostels I have ever stayed in.
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Check-in: 3:00 PM
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Our arrival: Much earlier
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Solution: Dump luggage, grab free coffee, and quietly celebrate civilisation
We paired the free coffee at the hostel with biscuits and peanuts brought from India, proving once again that Indian snacks are essential survival equipment abroad.
Feeling surprisingly refreshed, we set out for a walking tour.
Edinburgh has two main walking routes:
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Princes Street
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The Royal Mile
Between them lies a deep gorge (once containing the Nor Loch, drained in the 18th century). There is no river today, just dramatic landscape, crossed by elegant bridges.
Edinburgh Castle — Admired From a Safe Financial Distance
Our Lonely Planet–approved walking tour begins, at Edinburgh Castle.
Key facts:
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Origins date back to at least the 12th century
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Built atop an extinct volcanic plug
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Residence of Scottish kings and queens
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One of the most besieged castles in Europe
Ticket: £19.50
Time needed: ~1.5 hours
We admired it lovingly from outside, as both our wallets and energy levels unanimously voted: “Not today.”
The Royal Mile — One Mile, One Thousand Years
The Royal Mile runs downhill from Edinburgh Castle to Holyrood Palace and forms the spine of the Old Town.
Thanks to the Lonely Planet route, we wandered into narrow medieval lanes that most tourists miss.
Literary and intellectual ghosts were everywhere:
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Robert Louis Stevenson was inspired here while writing Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde
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Adam Smith, father of modern economics, lived and died nearby (1790)
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William Wordsworth frequently visited Edinburgh
Highlights Along the Royal Mile
Lawnmarket (15th–16th century)
Once a medieval marketplace; today, a photogenic slope of history.
The Hub (1845)
A dramatic Gothic structure, originally a church, now the headquarters of the Edinburgh International Festival.
St Giles’ Cathedral (founded 1124)
The spiritual heart of Scotland since the reign of King David I. (We passed it respectfully — time is money.)
Parliament Square
Seat of the Scottish Parliament until 1707, when Scotland and England formally united.
The Heart of Midlothian
A heart-shaped mosaic in the pavement. Local tradition: people spit on it for luck. We demonstrated restraint and cultural sensitivity.
Real Mary King’s Close (17th century)
Preserved underground streets from plague-era Edinburgh — dark, damp, and deeply atmospheric.
Canongate Kirk (built 1691)
Final resting place of many prominent Scots.
Scottish Parliament Building (opened 2004)
Ultra-modern architecture marking the end of medieval history and the return of Scottish legislative power.
The Whisky Experience — Courageously Skipped
We passed the Scotch Whisky Experience, featuring a barrel ride and whisky education.
We skipped it because:
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We are not whisky connoisseurs
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We feared accidentally becoming whisky connoisseurs
Self-knowledge is important while travelling.
Grassmarket & Victoria Street — Executions, Legends & Harry Potter
Grassmarket was once the city’s execution ground, active until the 18th century. Apart from that Traders used to meet here.
The Lady Who Was Hanged — And Lived :
The story you heard is true. Her name was Margaret Dickson (1728–1794), famously known as “Half-Hangit Maggie.”
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Convicted of infanticide (born out of wedlock, when her husband left her)
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Hanged in Grassmarket in 1724
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Declared dead and placed in a coffin
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Revived during the journey home
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Public outrage led to her release, as she was legally “already executed”
She lived for decades afterward — Edinburgh justice meets Edinburgh drama.
Nearby, Victoria Street, with its colourful curves, is widely believed to have inspired Diagon Alley in Harry Potter. We took photos and heroically resisted buying wizard hats.
With this, our Royal Mile tour came to an end. Since Mohua and Rumi were tired, they decided to return to the hostel, while we proceeded to Princes Street.
Calton Hill — Edinburgh From the Clouds
Later, we found ourselves back near Princes Street and climbed Calton Hill, formed by volcanic activity millions of years ago.
Key facts:
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Public park since 1724
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Home to the National Monument (begun 1826)
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Inspired by the Parthenon
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Never completed due to lack of funds
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Nicknamed “Edinburgh’s Disgrace”
The 360-degree view was worth every exhausted step.
At the top of Calton Hill, we spotted a rather well-travelled cannon — one that has seen more of the world than most of us. This cannon was manufactured by the Portuguese in the mid-16th century , at a time when Portugal was a major maritime and colonial power. Like many things in imperial history, it changed hands, eventually ending up with the British. Much later, it was reportedly used during British military campaigns in Indo-Burma (including the Rakhine/Arakan region) in the 19th century, before finally retiring — peacefully — to Calton Hill.
Today, it stands here not as a weapon, but as a silent witness to centuries of global trade, colonial ambition, and military history, having travelled from Portugal to Asia and finally to Scotland.
Not bad for a cannon that now spends its days doing absolutely nothing — except posing for photographs and confusing tourists like us.Then we were back at the beginning of Princes Street. Here, Princes Street more or less meets the Royal Mile.
Princes Street — Edinburgh’s Chowringhee
Princes Street felt like Edinburgh’s Chowringhee Road — wide, grand, and architecturally stunning.
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The Old Town (Royal Mile) sits high on a ridge
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Princes Street lies on flatter ground across the gorge
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From here, Edinburgh Castle rises dramatically above the city
We saw the towering Scott Monument (completed 1844) — a Gothic tribute to Sir Walter Scott, one of Scotland’s greatest writers.
Dinner, Exhaustion & Hostel Life
Before returning to the hostel around 8:00 PM, we grabbed food from a Pakistani restaurant.
Back at the hostel :
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People were socialising in the common room
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Conversations floated in every accent imaginable
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Mohua and Rumi were already asleep in the common room !
What We Missed (Next Time, Hopefully)
Due to exhaustion and time limits, we skipped:
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Dean Village (12th century)
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Scottish National Gallery (opened 1859)
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Arthur’s Seat (extinct volcano, ~350 million years old)
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Greyfriars Kirkyard (home of Greyfriars Bobby)
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Stockbridge
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Johnnie Walker Experience
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Rosslyn Chapel (built 1446, post-Templar era, despite Da Vinci Code myths)
Epic Day Trip: A Journey Through Rain, Ruins, Monsters, and Ice Cream
1. Departure: The Pilgrimage Begins (with an Unexpected Celebrity)
Our grand expedition into the Scottish Highlands began early in the morning, when the weather was doing what Scotland does best — threatening rain with deep personal commitment. The Highland terrain reminds one of Switzerland, with small hills called Ben (in Scottish Gaelic), numerous lakes known as Loch, and valleys referred to as Glen. We heard the fascinating history of Scotland from the guide.
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From Lowlands to Highlands: Stories on a Moving Bus
As our Timberbush bus rolled out of Edinburgh and headed
north, the landscape began to change — and so did the stories. Scotland, our
guide reminded us, is not just one country in spirit. Historically, it was
almost two worlds: the Lowlands and the Highlands.
The Lowlanders, closer to England, spoke English (or
Scots) and were more connected to trade, industry and monarchy.
The Highlanders, descended largely from Celtic
tribes, spoke Gaelic (often misheard as “Gallic”), lived in clans,
and followed a very different social order.
After the tour, we understood, though Scotland is not entirely highland, its rugged northern landscape is so powerful, that it defines how the country is remembered.
Bagpipes, kilts, and clan loyalties were not costumes
— they were identity.
The MacGregors, like many Highland clans, were once
powerful — but clan politics were brutal. Some clans were favoured by the Crown
and granted land; others were pushed out, outlawed, or even banned by name.
Clan identity was everything, and feuds could last generations.
Mac” / “Mc” in Gaelic = son of. So McGregor
= Son of Gregor.
Romans,
Walls, and the Edge of an Empire
Long before medieval kings, the Romans reached this
land and called it Caledonia. They never fully conquered it.
Unlike Gaul , Romans could never subdue Scotland. They attacked Romans continuously. Instead, Romans built walls:
- Hadrian’s
Wall (begun in 122 AD, about 74 miles long)
- Later,
the Antonine Wall (138 AD)
Even today, parts of Hadrian’s Wall (10%) survive — a
reminder that Scotland once marked the edge of the Roman world.
Robert
the Bruce and a Divided Scotland
No Scottish story is complete without Robert the Bruce. In 1306, Bruce killed his rival John Comyn inside a church at Dumfries — a shocking act that split Scotland.
Roughly half the Scottish nobility opposed Bruce at first. Bruce’s
early years as king were marked by defeat, exile, and survival. He
destroyed castles so enemies could not use them, gathered support slowly, and
inspired loyalty from key allies like James Douglas, one of the most
fascinating warriors of medieval Scotland.
All this led to the turning point - The Battle of
Bannockburn (1314). Bruce’s 7,000 men defeated an English force of
nearly 20,000, one of the most decisive battles in Scottish history. It
didn’t end English claims — but it proved Scotland could fight back.
The legendary story of Robert the Bruce and the spider is a famous Scottish tale of perseverance. While hiding in a cave after defeat, Bruce watched a spider fail six times to swing its web to a ceiling beam. On the seventh attempt, it succeeded. Inspired by this, Bruce rallied his forces to try again, leading to his decisive victory at the Battle of Bannockburn (1314) and securing Scotland's independence.
Jacobites,
Kings, and Bloody Consequences
Fast-forward to the late 17th and
18th centuries. After William of Orange (Stadtholder of the Dutch Republic, and later King of
England, Scotland, and Ireland [reigned 1689–1702]) took the
English throne in 1689, supporters of the deposed King James II ( II of England/VII of Scotland. (ruled 1685–1688) was overthrown in the Glorious
Revolution because of his Catholicism. Jacobites believed the deposed Catholic Stuart line were
the true monarchs of England, Scotland, and Ireland, and sought to restore them
to the throne against the Protestant ) became known as Jacobites (from Jacobus,
Latin for James). Many Highland clans supported Jacobites.
Glencoe Massacre (1692)
The bitter hatred between the Campbells and the MacDonalds
ended in tragedy. Government soldiers — many of them Campbells — were hosted by
the MacDonalds of Glencoe, then murdered them in their sleep. Men, women and
children were killed. Glencoe’s dramatic landscape still carries the weight of
that betrayal.
The famous Three Sisters of Glencoe stand today as
silent witnesses.
Bonnie Prince Charlie and the End of the Highland Dream
The final Jacobite rising came in 1745, led by Charles
Edward Stuart, remembered romantically as Bonnie Prince Charlie.
Initially successful, the Jacobites marched deep into
Britain. But by the time they reached Culloden (1746) near Inverness:
- Jacobites:
~4,000, starving and exhausted
- British
Government forces: ~8,000, well-fed and disciplined
The result was devastating. The Jacobites were crushed.
After Culloden, Highland culture itself was targeted — clan systems
dismantled, tartans banned, Gaelic suppressed.
It was the end of the old
Highlands.
Loch Ness, Fort William, and the Modern Highlands
As we passed Fort William, the guide pointed out its
role in British military control and later in WWII commando training —
commemorated by the nearby memorial.
Then came Loch Ness — deep, dark, and mysterious.
- Over
1,000 feet deep
- The largest
freshwater lake in Britain by volume
- So
deep it never freezes
Loch Ness is a large, deep, and murky freshwater lake/ (or
"loch" in Scottish ). The legendary monster "Nessie," is
said to dwell in Scotland's deep, murky Loch Ness. Whether or not one
believes in Nessie, the loch feels ancient and unknowable.
Today’s Scotland: Two Cities, One Country
The Highlands remain sparsely populated. Inverness, often called the unofficial capital of the Highlands, holds about 25%
of the Highland population.
Meanwhile:
- Edinburgh
became the centre of finance, law, and administration
- Glasgow
grew into an industrial powerhouse during the Industrial Revolution
Two cities, two histories — still shaping Scotland today.
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Hamish Dubh — The Highland Cow Superstar
With his majestic fringe (which clearly cost more than your whole haircut budget), Hamish Dubh stood there like a furry philosopher of the mountains.
We clicked a thousand pictures, of course — because in Scotland, you must take at least one photo of a Highland Cow or you are deported at the border.
2. Glencoe — Scotland’s Most Photographed Depression-Inducing Beauty
After tea and cow-influencer time, we rolled into Glencoe, one of the most dramatic, cinematic, heartbreakingly beautiful valleys in Scotland. Naturally, as per tradition, it started raining the moment we got down from the bus, at 3 sisters of Glenco !
Why Glencoe Is Famous
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One of the most photographed spots in Scotland.
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Volcanic in origin, carved by glaciers during the last Ice Age.
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Site of the infamous Massacre of Glencoe (1692) where the MacDonalds were killed by the Campbells — one of Scottish history’s biggest betrayals. The famous Three Sisters of Glencoe stand today as silent witnesses.
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Appears in films like Skyfall and Harry Potter.
Despite the rain, the view was spectacular — moody, misty, and perfect for wondering if you accidentally stepped into a fantasy novel.
3. Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle
Next stop: the Urquhart Castle and the legendary Lake Ness or Loch Ness, home of Nessie, the world-famous sea monster .
But our adventure was more historical than monstrous — because we first visited the iconic Urquhart Castle. We were given 1 hour to see the Castle and exhibition.
3.1. Urquhart Castle — Drama, Battles & A Cinematic Curtain Reveal
The Slide-Show Surprise
Inside the visitor centre, we watched a short 8 minute presentation about the castle’s chaotic past — battles, kings, clans, treasons, more battles. When the show ended, the curtain rose dramatically, revealing the actual castle ruins outside. This was perhaps the most cinematic, goosebump-worthy reveal we have ever seen. Just outside the slide show hall is the exhibition centre.
The Exhibition
A very educational gallery explained:
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How medieval people lived in the castle
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Their professions
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And how surnames like:
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Smith (blacksmith)
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Steward (keeper of the household)
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Marshall (horse caretaker) originated — much like Indian surnames derived from professions.
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We came out feeling smarter and impressed at how well-explained everything was. Then we went to see the Urquhart Castle. A Castle that has seen everything. Urquhart Castle sits dramatically on the banks of Loch Ness.
Historically:
First recorded around 6th century, associated with St. Columba.
Fought over repeatedly during the Wars of Scottish Independence (13th–14th centuries).
Controlled by both English and Scottish forces at different times.
Blown up in 1692 to prevent Jacobites from using it. The Jacobites were political supporters and rebel groups in the 17th–18th centuries who wanted to restore the Stuart kings to the throne after James II was removed in the Glorious Revolution of 1688.Jacobite" comes from Jacobus, the Latin form of James — meaning supporters of King James II and later his heirs. James II (1633–1701) was the King of England, Scotland, and Ireland from 1685 to 1688.
He was the last Catholic king to rule these kingdoms.Today: spectacular ruins
5. Boat Ride Across Loch Ness — Searching for the Monster
After exploring the castle, we boarded a boat to cross Loch Ness, gliding over the deep, mysterious waters where Nessie may or may not pay rent.
Important Note: This castle entry + boat ride ticket must be purchased separately.
Arindam and his family, wiser and less enthusiastic about boats, skipped this part and waited on the other side for us.
We bought a Hamish Dubh painting - 2 for 10 Pound after the boat ride. I bought it from the artist.
6. Pitlochry — Ice Cream Therapy
After surviving history, rain, and fictional monsters, we arrived at the charming Victorian town of Pitlochry. We rewarded ourselves with their famous Pitlochry ice cream — because after so much historical trauma, only dairy products can heal the soul. Their whisky ice cream is very famous.
7. Return Journey — Back to Civilization
With bellies full of ice cream and phone galleries full of misty mountains, we drove back home at 2030 hours through rolling Highland landscapes. It is almost a 12 hour tour. We took a toilet break in between. Normally, public toilets are free in England, but the guide remarked, “It’s a bit sad that you have to pay 50p to pee” !
It was the perfect ending to a day packed with:
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Weather mood swings
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Ancient tragedies
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Cow celebrities
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Castle ruins
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Boat rides
Suggestion:
- If you only have time for one, go for St Andrews & Fife .
- If you have two days, add Loch Ness & Glencoe for a contrast between the Highlands and the coast.
- Drop Isle of Skye is very far and a day trip won’t really allow you to see anything.
Day 7: October 2 – Day Tour of Scotland Tour- II : the Fishing Villages of Fife,St Andrews,Falkland and the Forth Bridge
- Timberbush Tours:
- Departure Time: 9:00 AM
- Return Time: Approximately 6:00 PM
- Price: From £53.00
Our Timberbush tour began in Edinburgh, a city that looks classical rather than modern, yet feels surprisingly organised. With a population of only about 5.5 million, Scotland has shaped the world far beyond its size. Edinburgh’s New Town, built on a grid system, was among the earliest examples of a planned city in Europe. Scottish ideas on urban planning travelled far — even influencing the planning philosophies later seen in places like Washington, D.C. The Enlightenment spirit still lingers here.
As we left the city, our guide pointed out remnants of older social policies — like the window tax, which once taxed homes based on the number of windows. To avoid higher taxes, people built larger windows instead of more, a decision that quietly shaped Scottish architecture.
Scotland’s industrial rise was powered by what lay underground: coal and iron. By the 16th century, these resources supported steelmaking, shipbuilding, and later railways. Eastern Cities like Dundee and Aberdeen became vital links between the North Sea, the Atlantic, and inland Britain.
Even today, Scotland looks to nature for power — now through wind energy, which often supplies the vast majority of the country’s electricity on windy days.
Stop 1:The Fishing Village of Fife — 30 Minutes of Pure Panic Walking
Our first stop was one of the postcard-perfect Fishing Villages of Fife (likely Anstruther, Crail, or Pittenweem — all equally pretty and equally difficult to pronounce). Long before heavy industry, Fife prospered through salt production, essential in medieval times for preserving food. Fishing villages grew here, sustained by the North Sea and coastal trade.
The guide gave us 45 minutes — which in tourist time means:
5 minutes for bathroom
10 minutes for photos
10 minutes for walking
5 minutes for regretting we didn’t get more time
But the village was charming. Small harbours, colourful boats, cobbled lanes, and I learnt something important. From this one little village, you can go to half of Scotland.
Historically, these villages were major medieval herring hubs, and by the 16th century, they supplied fish to most of Scotland. Today they supply Instagram content.
Stop 2: St Andrews: Faith, Learning, and the Vatican of Golf-2.30 hours free time
From Fife we reached St Andrews, one of the most historically layered towns in Scotland- the place where golf was not just invented…but worshipped. Golf was played here since at least the 15th century. So popular was the game that medieval kings once tried to ban it because it distracted men from archery practice.
Alfred Dunhill
The legendary Old Course at St Andrews is to golf, what FIFA World Cup is to football — the ultimate shrine. Some call it the “Home of Golf”, because:
Golf was first played here in the early 1400s
The Royal and Ancient Golf Club, founded in 1754, wrote the earliest rules
We strolled around the picturesque green patches, watched golfers and enjoyed the iconic view of the course next to the North Sea.
We walked to the dramatic ruins of St Andrews Castle, originally built around 1200 AD. The ruins of St Andrews Cathedral, once the largest church in the country, speak of Scotland’s early adoption of Christianity around the 6th century, developing into a distinct tradition known as Celtic Christianity. The St Andrews Cathedral, consecrated in 1318, was once:
The spiritual heart of the nation
The centre of medieval pilgrimage
Residence of bishops
Prison
Battlefield
And finally: the most scenic pile of stones in Scotland
Destroyed multiple times (the Scots call this “minor renovation”), the castle still stands proudly by the sea. Walking through the grounds felt like being inside a history book.
The town remains a centre of learning — a university town. In modern times, it quietly entered global headlines when Prince William met Kate Middleton here as students. We saw the coffee shop where they met.
We had lunch here — the peaceful kind of lunch only possible in a university town .
The guide spoke of Alexander Selkirk, a Scottish sailor marooned near Chile in the early 18th century. His survival story later inspired Daniel Defoe’s Robinson Crusoe. Selkirk returned after years alone — mentally changed, but alive — a reminder of how Scottish lives often crossed oceans.
Stop 3:Falkland: A Village Frozen in Time - 45 min free time
Our next stop was Falkland, a small, dreamy cobblestone village in Fife, where the streets feel almost like a preserved film set.
Then our bus took us to Falkland Parish Church. We visited the quaint Falkland Parish Church, built in the 19th century, quietly beautiful and standing near the famous Falkland Palace. It was once a favourite royal retreat of the Scottish kings. The Falkland island near Argentina were named after a Scottish noble title rooted in Falkland, Scotland. However, politically and geographically, the two are unrelated in modern governance.
The village is so pretty that parts of the Netflix series Outlander were filmed here.
Railways, Industry, and the Price of Progress
As we moved southward again, the narrative turned industrial. Scotland’s abundance of coal, iron, and sandstone helped build railways that connected the north-east of Scotland to the rest of Britain. Rivers like the Tay became industrial arteries.
One bridge, however, became infamous. The original Tay Rail Bridge, opened in 1878 and even crossed by Queen Victoria, collapsed during a storm in 1879 as a train passed over it. The disaster killed everyone onboard and became one of Britain’s worst industrial tragedies.
The inquiry revealed flawed materials and dangerous vibration under wind pressure. Public trust in railways collapsed along with the bridge. Yet Scotland responded not with fear, but with engineering courage.
Stop 4 :The Forth Bridge (at Queens ferry): Strength Over Beauty
Our final stop before returning to Edinburgh was the Forth Bridge, an iconic cantilever railway bridge and a symbol of regained confidence. The world-famous Forth Bridge (opened 1890), a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the greatest railway bridges ever built.
Its bright red iron structure is so iconic that it appears on Scottish banknotes. Built deliberately massive, it was designed to withstand wind, weight, and time. Scottish American (born in Fife) Industrialists like Andrew Carnegie, who made fortunes from steel, embodied this era. Carnegie famously believed that to die rich was a disgrace and later devoted much of his wealth to libraries and education.
The bridge still stands as proof that failure can lead to better thinking — not retreat.
Scotland Today: Old Ideas, Modern Values
Modern Scotland blends tradition with progressive values:
Free healthcare
An organ donor unless you opt out ation system
Strong public education
And culturally, Scotland continues to punch above its weight — from Enlightenment thinkers to global icons like Sean Connery, who carried a distinctly Scottish presence onto the world stage. Another Scot, Andrew Cowper Lawson is famous primarily as a pioneering geologist who fundamentally shaped modern earthquake science.
Final Stroll: Scottish Parliament & Holyrood Palace
After reaching the Royal Mile, we walked down to see the Scottish Parliament, a modern building so simple and accessible that:
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It has less security than an average Indian apartment complex, and
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You can practically walk into the lobby
Just across the road is the historic Holyrood Palace, the official residence of the British monarch in Scotland. Sadly, it was closed — apparently the King doesn’t care about our itinerary.
We took an overnight National Express bus at 22:00 hours from Edinburgh Bus Station to Manchester. The bus went via Carlisle and reached Manchester at approx 05:00 hours (Oct 3).
Day 8: Friday, October 3 : Manchester > York >Manchester
A Rain-Soaked, Wall-Hugging, Train-Chasing Day Trip to YorkAfter an overnight bus journey, Arindam and his family bravely declared themselves “officially exhausted.” They wisely cancelled the York trip and chose recovery mode in Manchester, with a pilgrimage to the Manchester United stadium. Sensible people. We, on the other hand, are not sensible — so we continued. From the bus station we marched to our hotel, dumped our luggage in the lobby (because check-in is always at 2 pm precisely when you need it at 7 am), and set off again for the Shudehill Interchange — Manchester’s coach station — to catch our FlixBus to York. The Great FlixBus BetrayalWe waited from 6:30 to 7:30 am. No bus. No announcement. No explanation. Eventually we discovered the truth: the bus had been quietly cancelled. No drama. No apology. Just FlixBus being FlixBus. Then appeared our guardian angel — an elderly gentleman who told Mohua: “Don’t waste your time in Manchester. Take a train from Piccadilly. It’s close.” Thus began our determined march to Manchester Piccadilly at 8:10 am — like disciplined soldiers betrayed by the Bus Kingdom. The £25 Escape to YorkWe reached the station just in time. Trains, unlike buses, honour schedules. Fare: about £25 per person. York: A Medieval JewelAt York station I collected a city map. York is small, atmospheric, and enchanting — instantly reminding us of Dubrovnik and its famous walls. True, York lacks the Adriatic Sea, Croatian sunshine, and Game-of-Thrones drama — but it compensates with English charm and layered history. York’s City Walls: 2,000 Years in StoneYork’s walls are among the best-preserved medieval town walls in Europe. Historical timeline:
Today they form the longest continuous medieval walls in England (about 3.4 km). We walked along the walls enjoying views over the old town. Not Dubrovnik-level dramatic — but deeply atmospheric. Afterwards we descended into the city proper to explore it “not from an ivory tower,”as I declared ! Rain: The Official Weather of BritainJust as we admired the medieval streets, the sky did what British skies do best — it opened. Heavy rain. But armed with ponchos and raincoats, we marched on heroically: drenched yet determined. Lebanese Lunch in Medieval EnglandWe ducked into a Lebanese restaurant for hummus (হুমাস) — perhaps the most historically inappropriate cuisine inside a medieval English city. But hunger respects neither geography nor chronology ! Cost: £7 — practically the cheapest meal in York. The Old City on FootRain or shine, York’s historic centre is wonderfully walkable: crooked lanes, Gothic towers, ancient walls, and the faint aroma of 1,000 years of history. We discovered a fascinating public library offering free self-service health checks — blood pressure, oxygen saturation, height, weight — entirely DIY. No staff. Machines everywhere. Results displayed against WHO reference values. In India, such a machine would require:
Here, nobody was present. Everything worked. Nearby stood a contemporary art gallery. We entered until the ticket barrier — then retreated with dignity upon seeing the entry fee. An Accidental University VisitBy mistake we wandered into a university campus — which turned out to be the University of York. No guards. No suspicion. No “Where are you going?” interrogation. We simply walked around like honorary academics. Not once did I experience racism in England; everyone we met was helpful and courteous. York Minster: Gothic MajestyWe reached the great York Minster, one of the largest Gothic cathedrals in Northern Europe. Key facts:
Technically, only a city can have a cathedral — hence York is a city, not a town. We entered the precincts and admired it from outside (cathedral entry fees in Britain can rival airline tickets). Bus Roulette: Return to ManchesterOur scheduled bus back was at 6:24 pm — but inevitably delayed. We noticed another bus of the same company going via Leeds. I politely asked the driver:“If there is a seat, may we board?” British transport miracle: he said yes. Thus we departed before our original bus even arrived. Food Notes from Northern EnglandLet me record important culinary observations:
Typical prices observed:
Conclusion: Britain is expensive; Pret is civilisation. Back to Manchester: Football Dreams vs RealityWe returned to Manchester by train at 9:30 pm and ate dinner (wisely purchased earlier in York). Arindam’s family attempted visits to the legendary Manchester United and Manchester City stadiums. Without prior booking, security treated them like paparazzi: “No entry.” They instead visited the National Football Museum — an excellent consolation prize — and explored the city centre near the hotel. Final VerdictDespite rain, cancelled buses, and medieval-era dampness, York proved utterly charming: compact, historic, and walkable — a city where Romans, Vikings, Normans, and tourists coexist peacefully. And sometimes, the best travel memories begin with a cancelled bus. |
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Day 9: Saturday, October 4 – Day Tour to Lake district from Manchester
The Rabbie’s Tour Begins – Small Bus, Big Expectations (and Slight Panic)
On 4 October 2025, we joined the famous Rabbie’s 1-day Windermere & Lake District Tour from Manchester. Our pickup point was on Store Street near Manchester Piccadilly, and the tour was scheduled to depart at 8:30 am. Naturally, we left “a little late” — 8:00 am sharp, which in our personal time zone counts as heroically punctual.
We reached in about 15 minutes, but locating the exact pickup point felt like a real-life treasure hunt designed by British town planners. I finally spotted it, only to discover that the rest of our group had vanished into Manchester’s morning mist, wandering in circles in search of the correct turn. Despite my ongoing health issues, I marched ahead at record speed and eventually located them — still searching — and shepherded everyone to the bus.
We finally departed at 8:36 am — a triumph of navigation, cardio, and mild panic.
Our driver-guide appeared to be comfortably over 70, yet spoke with such clarity that — for the first time in three tours — we understood every word without needing subtitles ! Rabbie’s tours use adorably small minibuses, which feel less like public transport. Following Rabbie’s official route, the day unfolded like a perfect English novel — landscapes straight out of Pride and Prejudice, weather straight out of British reality.
As we left Manchester, our guide launched into the dramatic story of the city — its rise, fall, and reinvention.
From Cottonopolis to Comeback City: Manchester’s Rise, Fall, and Revival
On our way toward the Lake District, the guide narrated the extraordinary history of Manchester — how a city of roughly 100+ cotton mills (about 106 at its peak) became a post-industrial wasteland with virtually none, and then reinvented itself as one of Britain’s most dynamic urban centres.
I scribbled notes in a moving bus; some words escaped me then, but the story itself stayed unforgettable. Here is the polished and historically accurate version.
Roman Beginnings: AD 79
Manchester’s recorded history begins around AD 79, when the Romans built a fort called Mamucium on a sandstone bluff above the River Medlock.
Before the Romans, Celtic tribes lived in the area.
The Romans remained only a few centuries. Across Roman Britain — including towns such as Londinium and Aquae Sulis — they introduced piped water systems using lead pipes (plumbum, origin of “plumbing”). Modern studies show some Roman-era populations had elevated lead exposure from plumbing, metalwork, and mining. However, Britain’s mineral-rich water often formed protective deposits inside pipes, so exposure existed but was likely not catastrophic.
As the Roman Empire weakened under invasions and internal crises, it withdrew from Britain in the early 5th century.
Then came the so-called Dark Ages, about which comparatively little is known in Manchester.
Medieval Weaving Town
Manchester re-emerged in the medieval and Tudor periods (16th century) as a centre of cottage textile production — especially wool and linen weaving.
Its damp climate proved ideal for spinning (threads break less in humid air). Flemish weavers, already famous across Europe, recognised Manchester’s potential and shared techniques and trade links.
By 1700, Manchester had about 6,000 people.
By 1750, roughly 20,000–25,000 — already growing fast before full industrialisation.
Industrial Revolution: Cottonopolis
From the late 18th century onward, Manchester exploded into the world’s first industrial city — the capital of cotton manufacturing, soon nicknamed “Cottonopolis.”
Key drivers:
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Mechanisation (spinning jenny, water frame, steam engine)
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Coal supply
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Canals and railways
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Global trade networks
A crucial turning point was the Bridgewater Canal (1761), built by the Duke of Bridgewater to transport coal cheaply from his mines to Manchester. Coal that once took days by horse arrived in hours — fuelling steam-powered mills.
Soon the skyline filled with chimneys and warehouses.
By the early 19th century, Manchester had over 100 cotton mills and was among the richest industrial cities on Earth. The 1830 Liverpool–Manchester Railway — the world’s first inter-city passenger railway — cemented its industrial dominance.
Slavery and Cotton
Manchester’s prosperity depended on raw cotton grown in American plantations worked by enslaved people.
Britain abolished the slave trade (1807) and slavery across the Empire (1833), but American slave-grown cotton continued to supply Lancashire mills. This moral tension shaped one of Manchester’s proudest moments.
Peterloo: Birth of Labour Politics (1819)
In 1819, tens of thousands gathered peacefully at St Peter’s Field demanding political reform. Authorities panicked and sent cavalry.
The Peterloo Massacre:
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~18 killed
600 injured
It galvanised reform movements and helped inspire British labour politics and trade union movements.
The American Civil War and Moral Stand (1861–65)
When the American Civil War halted cotton imports, Lancashire mills shut — the Cotton Famine. Workers faced starvation, yet many supported the Union cause against slavery rather than demand slave-grown cotton. This stance remains part of Manchester’s civic identity.
Peak Wealth and Innovation
Manchester stayed wealthy into the early 20th century:
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Manchester Ship Canal (1894) turned it into an inland seaport
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Global cotton exchange
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Engineering and manufacturing
Nearby, Rolls‑Royce emerged in the regional industrial ecosystem (founded 1904).
Manchester also became a scientific pioneer:
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First stored-program computer (1948) at the University of Manchester
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Work of Alan Turing in computing
Collapse: Mills to None (1960s–1990s)
After WWII, global competition and structural change destroyed the cotton industry.
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Last cotton mill closed: 1968–69 (period)
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Manchester Cotton Exchange closed: 1968
In roughly a century, Manchester went from ~106 mills to virtually none.
1970s–80s: Urban Decay
Late-20th-century Manchester faced:
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Derelict mills
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High unemployment
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Inner-city poverty
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1981 riots
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Post-industrial gloom
Large areas felt abandoned.
Reinvention: The Council’s Gamble
From the 1980s–90s, regeneration strategies included:
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Attracting service industries
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Converting mills to apartments/offices
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Redeveloping docks (Salford Quays)
A turning point came when the BBC moved major operations to MediaCityUK in Salford — transforming Manchester into a media hub.
1996 IRA Bomb: Destruction to Opportunity
An IRA bomb devastated Manchester’s centre in 1996. Reconstruction allowed planners to redesign it with modern retail and public spaces. Regeneration accelerated dramatically.
Sporting Catalyst: Commonwealth Games 2002
The 2002 Commonwealth Games triggered massive investment:
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Stadiums
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Transport
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East Manchester renewal
Industrial wastelands became thriving districts.
Modern Manchester
Today Greater Manchester has:
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Metrolink tram network
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Major universities
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Media industries
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Global football brands
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Finance and tech sectors
Often called the “Capital of the North,” it symbolises urban revival.
Manchester’s story is not just mills — but industry → collapse → courage → reinvention. Few European cities have reinvented themselves so completely.
Lake District Footnotes
Our guide then turned to the landscape ahead.
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The Lake District has over 16 major lakes and many tarns (not 3,000 lakes — that figure usually counts all small waters).
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Deepest lake: Wastwater
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Grasmere associated with William Wordsworth
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Mere historically means a lake (not specifically deeper or darker)
Windermere itself is England’s largest natural lake .
Stop 1: Windermere — Where the Wind Nearly Blew Us to Scotland
First came Windermere, formed by glaciers ~13,000 years ago.
We had planned a serene boat ride. Nature replied: “Wind speed exceeds human dignity limits.” Even the ducks were walking sideways.
So we admired the dramatic, rain-lashed lake instead. We spotted the Royal Windermere Yacht Club and spent ~45 minutes battling rain and photography. It reminded me of Lake Bled (Slovenia) and Lake Ohrid (North Macedonia) — if those lakes had British weather and fewer cooperative tourists.
Stop 2: Grasmere — Wordsworth, Gingerbread, and No Lake in Sight
We passed Ambleside and reached Grasmere, a stone-cottage village so pretty it could cause career changes in painters. Wordsworth called it: “the loveliest spot that man hath ever found.”
At Dove Cottage, Wordsworth lived (1799–1808) and wrote many poems including I Wandered Lonely as a Cloud (“Daffodils”). We saw his grave at St Oswald’s Church.
Grasmere is famous for gingerbread — which is essentially a cross between biscuit and cake. Mohua purchased some.
Wordsworth later became Poet Laureate (1843).
A small stream ran through the village. The actual lake of Grasmere lies just outside the village centre — explaining why I saw none and briefly doubted geography.
Thankfully, the rain paused.
Stop 3: Derwentwater — The Postcard Lake
Heavy rain forced cancellation of a flooded bridge stop, so we went instead to Derwentwater near Keswick.
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Glacial lake (~10–12 kyr)
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Famous islands
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Landscapes that inspired Beatrix Potter
Here we finally breathed fresh air and felt like extras in a BBC nature documentary.
Evening: Manchester by Night — Because We Still Had Energy
The tour ended early at 6:30 pm (scheduled 8:30 pm), so we explored Manchester by tram — buildings glowing, wind temporarily non-lethal.
My planned pilgrimage to Old Trafford was cancelled; instead I paid £3.70 for a scenic tram philosophy tour: ride to last stop, remain seated, return same tram. Highly recommended.
Dinner: Vietnamese Comfort Food
We ended at a Vietnamese food-court restaurant previously vetted by Arindam — therefore certified safe for Bengali digestion ! Students received 25 % discount; by cosmic generosity, so did we.
I ordered pho; Mohua rice. Final bill: £22 for two after discount and service .
Day 10: Sunday, October 5 – Final Sightseeing in London
A Night Bus, Fake Detective, Ancient Mummies & A Long Walk Across London
The Great Escape from Manchester (02:50 – 07:15)
Our London adventure began at the very respectable hour of 2:50 a.m ( since our bus which was suppose to leave at 1159 am was cancelled), when most sane people are asleep and only travellers, ghosts, and National Express drivers roam the streets. We waited in our Hotel till 12 pm and finally left for the bus stop. I suggested it is not a good idea to leave at 2 pm. Rather it is better to wait at the bus stop. Since it was Friday we saw many young crowd ( mostly punk and loud) both outside and inside the bus station. We saw similar kind of young and entitled, wayward, drunk young people , I am used to in all over Europe.
We finally boarded a FlixBus from Manchester Shudehill Interchange to London Finchley Road.
Fun fact: Night buses in the UK are dominated by National Express and FlixBus, the two vanguard of sleepy transportation. For comparing routes, timings, and prices, the website CheckMyBus (checkmybus.com) is actually quite helpful—especially for those with midnight wanderlust.
By 07:15 a.m., we reached Finchley Road, feeling victorious yet mildly zombified. From there, we hopped onto the Metropolitan Line to King’s Cross St Pancras, then shifted to the Piccadilly Line for Finsbury.
Our Airbnb host, a true angel of hospitality, allowed us to check in early and keep our luggage. After freshening up, the London marathon began. We had our first proper English breakfast - which is more or less similar to what you have in Flurys in Kolkata. We bought 2, but shared between us. I was eager to taste it. It was around 10 Pound , almost similar to Flurys'. It was almost 10.30 am, by the time we were done with our breakfast.
Baker Street: Meeting a Detective Who Never Lived There
Our first stop: 221B Baker Street – The Sherlock Holmes Museum. We took the tube to get down at Baker Street.
Here’s the truth, they don’t tell you in the movies:
👉 Sherlock Holmes never lived here.
👉 Arthur Conan Doyle never lived here either.
👉 The house is an imaginary address for an imaginary detective, curated into a museum for very real tourists like us.
Still, it was fun to see the Victorian setup—and more importantly, to tell everyone we visited Sherlock’s home, even though the man himself might have said, “Elementary, my dear tourist, this is all make-believe.”
Walking Through Regent’s Park to Lord’s Cricket Ground
We strolled through the lush Regent’s Park, one of London’s royal parks created in 1811 under the direction of architect John Nash.
We then reached Lord’s Cricket Ground, proudly called the “Home of Cricket.” Founded in 1814, it is sacred soil for cricket lovers.
Unfortunately, we couldn’t go inside. From outside, it didn’t look particularly impressive—certainly not for a place that has witnessed cricketing history for 211 years. But we clicked our photos and moved ahead like true tourists with no time to waste.
We took a bus to reach British Museum near Lords Cricket ground.
British Museum: Time Travel for Free
Next stop: the legendary British Museum (founded 1753, opened 1759), which charges exactly £0 for entry but charges heavy emotional damage because you can’t finish it in one lifetime. With our limited time , we decided to see some special items.
We admired only the following :
1. The Rosetta Stone (196 BC) – Room 4
This trilingual decree (Greek, Demotic, Hieroglyphic) became the key to decoding Egyptian hieroglyphs when Jean-François Champollion cracked it in 1822.
Also in Room 4: Bust of Ramesses II
Ramesses II (1279–1213 BC) – the Pharaoh with the strongest PR team in history. You’ll recognise him because half the statues in Egypt look like him.
2. Egyptian Mummies – Rooms 62 & 63
These mummies represent Egypt’s obsession with the afterlife. The Egyptians perfected the art of preserving bodies around 2600 BC.
3. Parthenon Sculptures – Room 18
Aka the Elgin Marbles, collected during the “Empire Shopping Era” of Britain (early 1800s).
These are the original friezes and statues from Athens’ Parthenon temple, showcasing classical Greek art - largely taken during the “I like this, I’ll take it” era of the British Empire(447 BC).
4. Crouching Venus – Room 23
A Roman sculpture from the 2nd century AD, is a Roman version of a much earlier Greek statue of the goddess Aphrodite, or Venus to the Romans.
5. Hoa Haka-nanai’a (Easter Island ) – Room 24
A massive basalt Moai statue from Easter Islandcarved around 1200 AD
6. Assyrian Lion Hunt Reliefs – Room 10
Carved around 645 BC from the palace of King Ashurbanipal in Nineveh (modern Iraq), these reliefs depict the king heroically hunting lions. They are considered the greatest masterpieces of Neo-Assyrian sculpture.
7 Nataraj - Gallery of China and South Asia — Room 33
This is where you can see the iconic bronze sculpture showing Shiva in his cosmic dance, symbolising creation, preservation and destruction. When we reaached room was just closed (5 minutes before time).
This museum is proof that if history had a lost-and-found department, most nations would file claims here.
Other Major London Museums You Should NOT Miss
Even though we didn’t go this time, every traveller must keep these on their list:
1. The National Gallery (Founded 1824, Trafalgar Square)
Home to masterpieces by Da Vinci, Van Gogh, Rembrandt, Monet, and nearly every artist whose works could bankrupt an entire country today.
2. Natural History Museum (Opened 1881)
Famous for dinosaurs—especially Dippy the Diplodocus and the blue whale skeleton.
3. Victoria & Albert Museum (Founded 1852)
The world’s largest museum of art, design, and fashion. 5,000 years of global creativity under one roof.
4. Tate Modern (Opened 2000)
Housed in a former power station. Home to modern and contemporary art
❌ Skipped Attractions, for want of time
We did NOT go to:
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Greenwich (Prime Meridian, Royal Observatory, Cutty Sark)
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Kew Gardens
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Harrods
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Little Venice
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Brick Lane
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The Shard
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Soho (London’s red-light district)
At this point, we were skipping more places than a truant schoolboy skipping classes.
🌟 Piccadilly Circus → St Paul’s Cathedral
We reached Piccadilly Circus (from British Museum walking), the Times Square of London—minus the chaos, plus some sophistication.
Rumi got tired here, so we parted ways. They could not see St Paul’s Cathedral, while I marched on like a historically curious soldier.
St Paul’s Cathedral (Completed 1710)
Entry fee: £20, but unless you are extremely interested, you can admire it from the outside.
Designed by Sir Christopher Wren, this cathedral survived:
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The Great Fire of London (well, the previous version didn’t survive)
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World War II bombs (this version did survive)
From here, I crossed over to the Millennium Bridge (opened 2000, famously wobbly on opening day). The view of St. Paul’s from the bridge is stunning—worth every “tourist step” taken.
Tate Modern & Globe Theatre
On the other side, I saw from outside :
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Tate Modern (opened 2000) – modern art inside a converted power station
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Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre – a faithful 1997 reconstruction of the 1599 original
London requires legs of steel and a calendar of 10 days to finish properly.
I passed by Borough Market (operational since the 12th century!) and continued walking till Tower Bridge—where London finally turned gold under the evening sky.
Return Journey
Finally, I took the tube and came back to our Airbnb at around 7.45 pm, ending a day so long it felt like two. Mita has already arrived in our Airbnb. We chatted for quite some time before she left for her home.
Day 11: Monday, October 6 – Canterbury Tour-Our Grand Finale: The Canterbury–Dover–Leeds Castle Adventure -Powered by Evan Evans Tours & our last remaining tourist energy.
After several days of heroic walking, countless tube rides, and a lifelong supply of British weather mood swings, we embarked on our final UK tour — a full-day escape to the green countryside of Kent, affectionately known as the “Garden of England”.
Before the tour even began, Mohua had to drop out at Victoria Station because she was running late and she had problem with escalator. Arindam and Rumi had already reached the Coach Station. I reached just in time, when bus has come out of the Victoria coach Station.
Stop 1: Leeds Castle — The “Loveliest Castle in the World”
Built: Originally in 1119, later transformed by Henry VIII in the 1500s for his first wife, Catherine of Aragon. This has nothing to do with the city of Leeds, which is in the middle of England and this one is in South West. Surrounded by a moat, manicured gardens, and swans who behave like they own the place, this medieval beauty has served as:
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A Norman stronghold
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A royal palace
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A private residence
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And finally… a tourist magnet
We wandered through the lavishly decorated rooms, admiring antique furnishings and wondering how medieval people managed this kind of interior design. Beyond the grand rooms and royal history, the grounds offer several delightful attractions, all of which I explored:
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The Falconry Centre: Home to daily bird-of-prey demonstrations featuring hawks, owls, and falcons.
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The Princess Alexandra Gardens: Seasonal flowers lining the River Len — perfect for slow scenic walks.
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The Black Swan Ponds: Photogenic swans drifting like they’re posing for a Victorian painting.
Leeds Castle wasn’t just a castle — it was practically a theme park for history lovers, and I made sure to see as much as possible.
Stop 2: Dover Seafront — Home of the Legendary White Cliffs
Age of the cliffs: Around 70 million years old
Our tour took us to Dover’s seafront, where we caught a majestic glimpse of the White Cliffs of Dover—that iconic chalky coastline that has welcomed soldiers, kings, poets, and now... us.
During World War II, these cliffs were a major symbol of British resistance. You can see the shore of France from here.
Sadly, we didn’t have time to climb the cliffs or storm the Dover Castle like a Viking, but the panoramic view was worth every minute.
Stop 3: Canterbury Cathedral — England’s Spiritual Heartbeat
Founded: 597 AD
Rebuilt: 1070–1077 (Norman style)
Famous for: The 1170 martyrdom of Archbishop Thomas Becket
Our final stop was Canterbury Cathedral, one of the most important Christian sites in the world and the headquarters of the Archbishop of Canterbury. What Vatican is to Roman Catholics, this one is to the Protestants.
Inside, we admired:
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The stunning stained-glass windows (some dating back to the 12th century)
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The crypt, one of the oldest parts of the building
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The exact spot where Thomas Becket was murdered by knights who misunderstood King Henry II’s rant (“Who will rid me of this turbulent priest?” led to a very bloody literal interpretation.)
Becket’s shrine became one of Europe’s most popular pilgrim sites, inspiring Geoffrey Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales in the 14th century.
Our guide narrated all of this with such passion that even our tired legs renewed their faith.
Driving Through Kent — England’s Countryside at Its Best
Between stops, we enjoyed the rolling hills, medieval villages, and scenery that looked like someone left the “Saturation” slider on full blast. Evan Evans Tour commentary was informative, entertaining, and sprinkled with British humour—the perfect blend for the last adventure of our UK trip.
Why We Skipped Cornwall ?
Cornwall, the land of dramatic cliffs, turquoise coves is a minimum 4+ hour train ride from London. And if you choose the bus (or “coach,” as the British insist on calling it), you can expect to spend around 8 hours wondering why you ever left your comfortable Airbnb. So, after a quick reality check — and looking at our extremely tight itinerary — we realised: Cornwall was simply not doable.
Instead of chasing seagulls in Cornwall, we opted for a lovely and far more realistic day tour to Canterbury and Kent. It saved time, saved energy, and most importantly, saved us from turning the entire trip into a National Express residency.
But make no mistake — Cornwall is very special. One day, Cornwall — one day.
Day 12: Tuesday, October 7 – Departure from London
The Great Gatwick Sleepover: How We Accidentally Spent 24 Hours at an Airport
Our National Express bus from Victoria to Gatwick was scheduled to leave at 23:59 hrs on 6 October, and at just £3.50, it felt like the travel bargain of the century — especially when trains to Gatwick cost as much as a small inheritance ! We reached Gatwick financially responsible…only to discover that our flight was delayed by 24 hours.
Yes. Twenty. Four. Hours.
At that moment, Gatwick Airport became our surprise Airbnb.
The Left-Luggage Robbery
We thought of keeping our luggage in the storage area, until the staff said:
“£15 per bag, please for 6 hours .” which is roughly ₹1,800 per suitcase.
Our bags were not Louis Vuitton. They were not worth £15 of resting time. So we kept everything with us.
Airport Hotel? No, Thank You
I walked all the way to the airport hotel - which itslef was an adventure. The airport hotel quoted nearly £100 per room. So the decision was unanimous: We will survive 24 hours inside the airport.
Sonali to the Rescue
Thankfully, Sonali came after office hours with snacks, moral support, and proof that good friends exist even during airline-induced suffering. We chatted, laughed at our situation, and tried not to cry in the corner like other stranded passengers.
Qatar Airways?
Sadly, Qatar Airways made no arrangements for food, hotel, accommodation, blankets, nothing.
Finally… Home!
The next day, after several philosophical discussions about life, airlines and overpriced sandwiches, we finally boarded the flight to Kolkata.
Of course, I had to miss office for one day, but after spending a full day living inside Gatwick Airport, I think I earned it.
Tips : Cheap Budget Tour operator – rabbies.com / timberbush-tours.co.uk

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