SCENIC MIZORAM
17–21 September 2026 | 5 Days • 4 Nights | Base: Aizawl
Aizawl → Champhai → Vangchhia → Zokhawthar & Rih Dil →
Hmuifang → Sialsuk → Thenzawl → Vantawng Falls → Falkawn/Zokhua → Reiek→ Aizawl
17 SEPTEMBER Kolkata → Aizawl → Durtlang → Bara Bazaar→ Aizawl
18 SEPTEMBER Aizawl → Champhai → Cosmos → Vineyard → Vangchhia → Zokhawthar → Rih Dil →Champhai
19 SEPTEMBER Champhai → State Museum → Solomon’s Temple → Hangi Lunglen Tlang → Bara Bazaar→ Aizawl
20 SEPTEMBER Aizawl → Hmuifang → Sialsuk → Thenzawl → Vantawng Falls → Falkawn/Zokhua → Aizawl
21 SEPTEMBER Aizawl → Reiek -Lengpui → Guwahati → Kolkata
Mizoram is not a destination where distances on a map tell the whole
story. The mountains, winding roads, weather and travel time make even
apparently short journeys considerably longer.
Aizawl — the city, people, food and Mizo urban culture
Champhai & Vangchhia — eastern Mizoram, vineyards, flowers, rice
fields, archaeology and the Myanmar frontier
Hmuifang–Thenzawl–Vantawng — forests, countryside, hills and waterfalls Falkawn/Zokhua, which adds another layer of traditional Mizo culture.
Mizoram was a part of Assam from 1947 till 1987. The Mizo National
Front, founded by Laldenga, fought for Mizo independence. The Mizoram Peace
Accord was eventually signed, and Mizoram became the 23rd state of India on
20 February 1987.
Mizoram’s Famine of 1959: From Rat Explosion to Lasting Peace
Mizoram’s history bears witness to how a natural phenomenon can trigger a political upheaval—and how peace can eventually emerge from decades of conflict. In 1959, the region was struck by the devastating Mautam famine, caused by the mass flowering of bamboo, a phenomenon that occurs approximately every 48 years. The bamboo seeds provided abundant food for rats, triggering an explosive increase in the rat population. When the seeds ran out, the rats turned to standing crops and stored grain, leaving communities facing severe food shortages.
The tragedy was compounded by inadequate and delayed official relief, deepening the people’s sense of neglect. Pu Laldenga helped organise the Mizo National Famine Front to provide relief and protest the government’s response. It subsequently evolved into the Mizo National Front (MNF), which launched an armed insurgency in 1966. What began as a humanitarian crisis thus became part of a prolonged and painful political conflict.
Nearly 48 years after the 1959 famine, bamboo flowered again in 2007, bringing fears of another rat explosion and famine. This recurrence reminded Mizoram of the close connection between its natural environment, food security and history.
The political story, however, took a more hopeful turn. On 30 June 1986, the Government of India, the Government of Mizoram and the MNF reached the historic Mizoram Peace Accord, with Pu Laldenga signing on behalf of the MNF. The agreement brought the two-decade insurgency to an end, enabled underground cadres to return to civilian life and paved the way for Mizoram to become a full-fledged state in 1987.
The enduring significance of the accord lies not merely in ending armed conflict, but in demonstrating the possibilities of dialogue, political accommodation and reconciliation. From the devastation of the rat explosion to the flowering of peace, Mizoram’s journey is a powerful reminder that even a deeply troubled past need not determine the future.
Aizawl is said to derive its name from two Mizo words:
·
Ai — cardamom
·
Zawl — flatland
So, perhaps at some point in history, this area was covered with
cardamom fields.
According to the historical account I have collected, in 1810 a
tribal chief, Lalsavunga, established the place as a village. Today, a
large park in Aizawl is dedicated to him.
The Lushai Hills came under British rule in 1895, and Aizawl became
the capital in 1898. With the arrival of the British, Christianity spread among
the local population. Today, Christianity is deeply woven into Mizo society.
Mizoram is also known as the Land of the Blue Mountains. The
famous Blue Mountain is associated with Phawngpui Peak, the highest peak
in Mizoram, located in the Lawngtlai region.
Mizoram is predominantly mountainous, formed largely by the Mizo
Hills, which form part of the broader Rakhine/Arakan mountain range.
KNOW MIZORAM
Mizoram vs West Bengal: a quick comparison
| Parameter | Mizoram | West Bengal |
|---|
| Area | 21,081 km² | 88,752 km² |
| Population (Census 2011) | ~10.97 lakh | ~9.13 crore |
| Density | ~52 per km² | ~1,030 per km² |
| Main communities | Mizo tribes (Lushai, Lai, Mara and others): ~94% Scheduled Tribe | Bengali-speaking majority; SC ~23.5%, ST ~5.8% |
| Religion | Christian ~87%, Buddhist ~8.5% (mainly Chakma), Hindu ~2.7%, Muslim ~1.4% | Hindu ~70.5%, Muslim ~27%, Christian ~0.7% |
| Per capita GSDP, 2024-25 (current prices) | ~₹2.87 lakh | ~₹1.82 lakh |
| Literacy | the state reports ~98% in 2024 | ~77% (Census 2011) |
| Sex ratio | ~976 | ~950 |
Reading the numbers
- West Bengal has about 83 times Mizoram’s population on only about 4 times the land, so it is roughly 20 times as densely populated.
- Mizoram’s literacy is among the highest in India, and the state has been declared fully literate under the national literacy programme.
Agriculture
- Mizoram: Traditionally shifting (jhum) cultivation on hill slopes, now moving towards settled farming and horticulture. Main crops are rice, maize, ginger, turmeric, bird’s-eye chilli, oil palm and bamboo. Horticulture output was about 708 thousand tonnes in 2023-24.
- West Bengal: One of India’s top rice producers and the largest jute producer. It also grows tea, potato and vegetables, and is the second-largest fish-producing state .
Industry
- Mizoram: Very little large industry. The economy rests on government services, handloom and handicrafts, bamboo, food processing, small hydropower, and border trade with Myanmar and Bangladesh.
- West Bengal: A diversified base including jute mills, engineering, steel , petrochemicals , leather, textiles, and IT .
Taxation status
- Income tax in Mizoram: Scheduled Tribe members residing in Mizoram are exempt from income tax on income arising in Mizoram. This Section 10(26) of the 1961 Act has limits:
- It does not cover non-tribal residents, who pay tax like everyone else. While paying Rent you cannot deduct TDS. My friend's Company based in Kolkata faced problem in this regard
- It does not cover a tribal person’s income earned outside the state (for example, a Mizo working in Delhi).
- Agricultural income: Not taxed under central income tax in either state.
- GST: Applies in both states with no special relief for Mizoram.
- Land and entry rules in Mizoram: Article 371G protects Mizo customary law and land ownership. Outsiders need an Inner Line Permit to enter, and non-tribals cannot freely buy land.
Tucked into a corner of India that shares borders with Bangladesh (Chittagong) and Myanmar, Mizoram feels remarkably remote from the Indian heartland. In India it shares its border with Assam, Tripura. So food habit is somewhat similar to these places.
Aizawl, the capital of Mizoram, stands at approximately 1,132 metres (about 3,714 feet). It is a beautiful hill city with a cool climate through much of the year. With around 4,15,000 inhabitants, it is a busy city, yet largely peaceful.
Naming tradition in Mizoram : In Mizoram many names begin with “Lal”
From Aizawl, shared Sumos connect most major towns and
destinations, including:
· Champhai
· Thenzawl
· Lunglei
Hiring a car in Mizoram can be expensive. Mostly SUVs are available, with reported rates of around ₹30–35
per km. This cost needs to be factored into the trip.
For travel between the main towns, Sumo services are considered
reliable, just like Darjeeling , Kalimpong which are lifeline.
Sumos are available from Zarkawt Main Street. (জারকাওত). From Zarkawt, there is also a flight of stairs leading down towards the market area, where Sumos to Champhai are available. There are several Sumo counters along the street. Wherever you want to go, simply approach a Sumo counter and ask. They can generally help with the time, fare and other details.
From Zarkawt, Sumos to Silchar are also available. Guwahati services operate from other stands, although there is a bus counter at Zarkawt as well.
While considering the return journey, I found references to buses leaving around 2:30 PM and reaching Guwahati only the following morning. Volvo buses are also available.
Sumo tip
Try to get a seat in the front
or second row.The third row can become
uncomfortable, particularly for tall passengers. For offbeat destinations and
villages, always check the Sumo timings beforehand. More importantly, go
personally to the counter, meet the driver or representative, and get your seat
booked. This will be pencil booking. There is no requirement for cash payment. There is a language problem in Mizoram. People generally do not understand English or Hindi outside Aizawl. More so for the drivers. Some people faced this problem of Sumo not turning up to the pick up point because of communication problem. So go to the booking counter personally and book it. That is one of those lessons
which is much better learnt before the journey than during it.
Night Sumos to Champhai are also available from Aizawl.
NO HORN
There is very little litter in Aizawl; the roads and streets are remarkably clean. One thing that really stands out about this city, and indeed the entire state, is that nobody seems to honk. Traffic police stand at road junctions, regulating the flow of traffic efficiently and smoothly.
Aizawl has a fleet of bike taxis — riders on scooters who take passengers to different destinations.
They reportedly charge around ₹20–30, depending on the destination, although tourists may sometimes be asked for more.
FASHION
Another thing that caught my eye was the fashion sense of the people here. Everyone is dressed neatly, elegantly and modestly.
KOLKATA → AIZAWL
Four Bengalis, one shared car and the beginning of a Mizoram adventure!
The Mizoram expedition finally began on 17 September 2026. After all the planning, research and itinerary-making, it was time to stop looking at Mizoram on Google Maps and actually reach there.
Our flight was scheduled to land at Lengpui Airport at 3:20 PM. Two members of our travelling group, Sumana and Anjan, had already reached Mizoram by different routes. Sumana had arrived by plane, while Anjan had travelled by train to Sairang railway station.
They had got a head start on us and had already made a provisional booking for a Sumo to Champhai at ₹700 per person.
Meanwhile, the rest of us were about to begin our own little adventure.
The flight from Kolkata to Aizawl
Flight: IndiGo 6E-6616
Departure: Kolkata (CCU) — 2:05 PM
Arrival: Lengpui Airport (AJL) — 3:20 PM
Duration: 1 hour 15 minutes
We landed at Lengpui Airport, the gateway to Mizoram, surrounded by the hills that make this part of the country so distinctive.
And then came the next question: How do you get from Lengpui Airport to Aizawl without making a hole in your travel budget?
From Lengpui Airport to Aizawl — the shared-car solution
There was a bus waiting in front of the airport that went towards Aizawl and charged ₹500 per person. That was one option.
We, however, found a shared car and travelled with two Bengali boys from Kolkata. The total fare was ₹1,500, which we shared among the four of us.
That brought the cost down to just ₹375 per person.
In other words, we saved ₹125 each compared with the bus fare. It may not make us financial geniuses, but every rupee saved on transport is another rupee available for food, local experiences or an unexpected detour.
There is something reassuring about meeting fellow Bengalis in a distant corner of the country.
The drive from Lengpui to Aizawl took us towards the hill city, with winding roads and beautiful landscapes along the way. We had allowed roughly 1–1½ hours for the transfer, although the actual time depended on road and traffic conditions.
Where to stay in Aizawl?
The plan was to stay in central Aizawl rather than near the airport. It was a practical decision: the airport is some distance from the city, and staying centrally would make exploring Aizawl much easier. Chanmari is a very good place to stay.
Hotel researched before the trip
Cosmo Hotel, Aizawl
- Type: Bengali hotel
- Quoted rate: approximately ₹1,500 for a non-AC room
- Contact numbers: 0389-2346156 / 09863370610
The hotel information had been collected during the planning stage. However Sumona booked Corporate Guest House for the first day.
For a short first evening, the priority was simple: get settled, freshen up and start getting acquainted with Aizawl.
Evening plan:
Aizawl is not a city that sits politely on a flat piece of land. It spreads across ridges and slopes, with houses appearing to climb the hills in every direction.
Bara Bazaar: A glimpse of everyday Aizawl
Bara Bazaar is Aizawl's lively market area. The intention was to walk around, observe local life, explore the shops and look for local snacks and everyday Mizo products. Markets often tell you more about a place than a collection of monuments does. They reveal what people eat, what they buy, what they wear and how the city goes about its daily business.
Dinner and an early night
The final item on the day's plan was a good local dinner, followed by rest. The philosophy for Day 1 was straightforward: Land → find transport → reach Aizawl → settle in → explore if time permitted → eat → sleep.
Our first evening in Aizawl turned out to be far more memorable than we had imagined. It was a lovely mix of local food, old friendships, unexpected discoveries and conversations that travelled thousands of miles beyond Mizoram.
A Little Shop, a Few Cigarettes and a New Discovery
We stepped into a small shop where a few women were busy rolling cigarettes by hand. The cigarettes were called Joziyal in the local language. A packet cost just ₹10, and they were incredibly light.
Curiosity got the better of all of us. We bought a packet, and we all smoked! Well, when in Mizoram, do as the Mizos do—or at least try a local cigarette once. At ₹10 a packet, it was certainly one of the cheapest experiments of the trip!
We met some Benglai from Karimganj, Barak Valley of Assam - selling Jhalmuri. In fact, we met many Bengalis and almost all of them are from Barak Valley. Some of them are selling Phuchka - 5 for Rs 10.
An Old College Friend and a Dinner at Red Pepper
Sumana had a special reason to look forward to the evening. She was meeting Alemala, her Mizo friend from her college days. Sumana had asked her to take us somewhere we could sample authentic Mizo dishes. Alemala suggested Red Pepper, and that became our dinner destination.
One thing worth mentioning about Aizawl is its rather different rhythm of life. Most shops close by around 6 PM. Some restaurants remain open until 8 PM, while others stay open until 10 PM. Sundays are particularly quiet, as it is the day of church, and almost everything remains closed.
We reached Red Pepper at around 6:30 PM, and Alemala joined us a little later. Before I describe the food, a word about alcohol in Mizoram. The state has historically had strict prohibition laws, although the rules and permitted exceptions have changed over time. So, don't arrive expecting to find the usual whisky brands, a bustling pub scene or restaurant-bars on every corner. Mizoram is certainly not the place to go looking for a conventional nightlife experience.
The Mizo Thali: A Lesson in Simplicity
Following Alemala's recommendation, we ordered a Mizo thali. Now, if you are accustomed to the robust flavours of Bengali food, or the fiery chilli pork served in restaurants elsewhere in India, the Mizo palate might come as a surprise. The dishes were extremely mild . I had been particularly excited about trying the pork, but what arrived was essentially boiled pork. But the quality of Pork was very good.
Alemala informed us Kolkata is their favourite city outside Mizoram.
If you go expecting the spicy, chilli-laden pork that we are used to eating elsewhere, you may be disappointed. There was no dramatic burst of flavour, no fiery sauce and no attempt to overwhelm the taste buds. Instead, the food was simple, subtle and almost startlingly restrained.
Yet there was something appealing about that simplicity. The meal felt wholesome, and I could easily imagine that, for people accustomed to this style of cooking, it was comforting everyday food.
Overall, it was a pleasant experience, and it gave us a glimpse into a food culture quite different from our own.
A Walk Through the Quiet Streets of Aizawl
By the time we finished dinner, the restaurant was preparing to close. We stepped out into the streets at around 8:30 PM. The roads were surprisingly quiet, and the city seemed to have settled into its nighttime stillness. Alemala and Sumana walked for a while, chatting like the two old friends they were. It was a lovely little moment, uncomplicated and full of nostalgia. After some time, Alemala got onto her scooter and left.
I found myself wondering whether Sumana would ever meet her again in this lifetime. Back in college, neither of them could probably have imagined that one day Sumana would travel all the way to Alemala's hometown and meet her there.
And now, here we were, walking through its streets after dinner, with an old friendship briefly bringing two very different worlds together. Travel has a way of making the improbable feel perfectly natural.
A Tiny Café and a Trip to South America—Without Leaving Aizawl!
After saying goodbye to Alemala, we continued walking along the quiet streets. Before long, we stumbled upon a tiny café. It was a small place, but several young Mizo men and women were sitting inside, chatting and enjoying the evening. The café seemed to serve as a little oasis for Aizawl's younger crowd—a place to meet friends after the rest of the city had gone to sleep.
We settled down and ordered passion-fruit tea. And then, quite unexpectedly, the conversation travelled from Mizoram to South America.
Dipankar began recounting stories from his adventures in Peru. Dipanka in particular, had a chilling tale to tell about Lake Titicaca. There we were, sitting in a little café in Aizawl, sipping passion-fruit tea while listening to stories from the high-altitude landscapes of South America. Not a bad way to end the day!
The contrast was delightful. Outside, Aizawl was quiet and almost deserted. Inside, the conversation carried us across continents, from the hills of Northeast India to the distant waters of Lake Titicaca.
And just like that, our first day in Mizoram came to an end.
Day 1 in Retrospect
Our first evening had given us a little bit of everything: a packet of local hand-rolled cigarettes, our first Mizo thali, an old college friendship rekindled, deserted streets and an unexpected South American travelogue over tea.
We had arrived in Mizoram expecting to discover a new place. By the end of the evening, we had also discovered something about its people, its pace of life and the quiet pleasures of travelling without rushing from one attraction to another. With Sumana and Anjan already ahead of us and the Champhai transport arrangement provisionally in place, the larger adventure was beginning to take shape.
Rice Bowl • Vineyard • Myanmar Border • Cosmos Country
The original plan was ambitious : Aizawl → Champhai → Cosmos fields → Vineyard → Vangchhia → Zokhawthar → Rih Dil → Aizawl. We had hoped to visit Rih Dil, the famous heart-shaped lake across the Myanmar border, and perhaps squeeze in the archaeological site of Vangchhia as well. Reality, as usual, had its own itinerary.
The actual day turned out to be a fascinating mixture of Mizo cuisine, vineyards, spectacular landscapes, a tense encounter at an international border, and a reminder that sometimes the most memorable part of a journey is the part you never planned. We eventually reached Champhai, explored its vineyards and countryside, and made it to Zokhawthar. But Rih Dil remained tantalisingly out of reach, while Vangchhia had to be sacrificed for lack of time.
Nevertheless, the day gave us enough stories to fill several pages.
6:00 AM — An Early Start at Chanmari
We were up before dawn and reached the vicinity of the Presbyterian Church at Chanmari, near our corporate guesthouse, by around 6:00 AM. Our shared Sumo was scheduled to leave for Champhai at 6:15 AM. Aizawl was still asleep. The streets were unusually quiet, and there were hardly any people around. We found a small tea shop nearby and decided that a cup of tea would be a sensible way to prepare for the long journey ahead. The shop, however, was already busy. Inside and outside, it was crowded with labourers from the mainland India—men who had come from Uttar Pradesh, Bihar and Bengal in search of work. Dressed in vests, T-shirts and lungis or trousers, they had gathered for their morning tea and breakfast. After eating, they climbed into a Matador van and disappeared into the early morning. It was an interesting little glimpse of another side of Mizoram: beneath the familiar images of hills, churches and quiet streets, there was also a workforce arriving from different parts of India to keep the state functioning.
At 6:15 AM, our Sumo arrived. We loaded ourselves in, and the Champhai expedition began.
6:15–10:00 AM — The Road to Champhai
The drive from Aizawl to Champhai is long, winding and wonderfully scenic. Earlier travel accounts had suggested a journey of around five and a half hours, and we were prepared for a substantial road trip.
The road conditions, however, were better than expected. The first 30 kilometres or so outside Aizawl were rough, but most of the remaining stretch was in very good condition. And once we had left the immediate surroundings of Aizawl behind, the landscape began to unfold in spectacular fashion.
The hills opened up, the valleys deepened, and the road wound through one beautiful vista after another. The scenery seemed to become more generous with every passing kilometre. There were green slopes, distant blue hills and stretches of countryside that made us forget how long we had been travelling. Inside the Sumo, we kept ourselves entertained with conversations, poetry and songs. Two other Mizo passengers were travelling with us. Unfortunately, the language barrier prevented us from striking up a meaningful conversation with them. We shared the same vehicle and the same spectacular views, but our respective vocabularies failed to cooperate.
09:00 AM — A Mizo Breakfast That Looked Suspiciously Like Lunch
After approximately 80 kilometres, our driver pulled over at a roadside eatery. It was around 09:00 AM.
We assumed we might have a cup of tea or perhaps a light breakfast. Instead, a substantial meal appeared before us: rice, dal, chicken, pork, vegetables, chutney and several other accompaniments.
There were around nine dishes on the table, including rice.Breakfast, apparently, was a flexible concept in this part of Mizoram. We learnt that this was quite normal for people who ate early, fuelled themselves properly and then headed off to work. I could not remember all the Mizo names of the dishes, but a few stayed with me.
A vegetable-based dish called bai was served, along with a pork preparation that I remembered as vawksa rep. There was also a thick, delicious Mizo dal. Of all the dishes, bai was the one I particularly enjoyed.
The price was ₹250 per person.
For that amount, we received a substantial meal with rice and eight or so accompaniments. By the time we finished, nobody needed to ask when lunch would be served. The only uncertainty was whether we should call it breakfast, brunch or lunch. We decided not to disturb the local culinary system by insisting on a classification.
Another one and a half to two hours of driving remained before we reached Champhai.
Around 11:30 AM — Welcome to Champhai, the Rice Bowl of Mizoram
We reached Champhai at approximately 11:30 AM. Champhai is known as the Rice Bowl of Mizoram, and its landscape explains the title. The area is famous for its agricultural fields, rolling countryside and proximity to the Myanmar border. In the right season, the vineyards and flowering fields add further colour to the scenery.
The town itself was small and relatively quiet. But arriving was only half the challenge. We now had to find a vehicle to take us around. That turned out to be an adventure of its own.
The Great Taxi Negotiation
A number of small Maruti Alto cars were standing at a designated spot, apparently available as taxis. We approached the drivers and tried explaining the places we wanted to visit. Unfortunately, communication proved difficult.
After several such exchanges, I turned to my companions and exclaimed, in exasperation:
“Shit! Not one of them understands either English or Hindi !” Dipankar came up with a more sensible suggestion. Let us go to the tourist lodge where we have booked our stay. Surely the manager there will understand us. It was a good idea. We hired an Alto for ₹100 simply to take us to the government tourist lodge. At least we would be able to communicate our plans to someone who knew the area.
The Tourist Lodge and a Very Unexpected Discovery
At the Champhai Government Tourist Lodge, we were relieved to meet the lady manager, who spoke English. The language barrier had been a recurring problem. English and Hindi were not widely understood by the drivers we had approached, and we quickly realised that trying to plan a complicated sightseeing circuit without local assistance would be unnecessarily difficult.
We therefore explained our proposed itinerary to the manager and asked her to help us organise the day.
Our greatest priority was Rih Dil. The lake lies in Myanmar, just across the international border from the Zokhawthar area of Mizoram. It is culturally significant to the Mizo people and is one of the most famous attractions associated with Champhai. The moment we mentioned Rih Dil, however, the manager reacted emphatically. “It is closed. You cannot go to the border. There was firing there last night.” That was not what we had hoped to hear. We had travelled all the way from Aizawl with the lake firmly in our minds. We decided that we would go as far as the authorities permitted us to go, without attempting anything that was unsafe or unauthorised. We left our luggage at the lodge and, with the manager's help, arranged the same car for the day's sightseeing at Rs 3,200.
Before leaving, though, I noticed something unusual at the reception counter. There was a large glass jar filled with little packets. At first glance, I assumed they contained toffee. On closer inspection, I discovered that they were condoms.
Condoms. In a jar. At the reception counter of a government tourist lodge.
I found the arrangement rather unexpected. Why were they being kept there in such quantities, and so prominently displayed?
I did not have an answer then, and I could only speculate about the reason. But after what we were about to hear at the Myanmar border, the observation acquired a different context later in the day.
For the moment, however, our driver was waiting and our expedition had to continue.
Early Afternoon — Champhai Winery and Vineyards
Our first stop was a local winery. Mizoram has had a complicated history of alcohol prohibition and regulation, so the existence of a winery was interesting in itself. Local grape cultivation and wine production have developed in parts of the state, including the Champhai region. The winery we visited was one such establishment, with vineyards nearby.
The surrounding area was associated with grape cultivation. But due to gap in communication we could only visit the factory , but not the vineyard. For a region better known for its hills, rice fields and tribal culture, the vineyards were an unexpected attraction. We bought few Champhai wine.
The landscape was especially appealing: agricultural fields and rolling hills stretching towards the horizon, with the Myanmar border not far away.
Champhai's reputation as the Rice Bowl of Mizoram was well deserved, but there was clearly more to its countryside than rice alone.
Afternoon — Zokhawthar: At the Edge of Myanmar
From the winery, we proceeded towards Zokhawthar, the Indian border town opposite Rihkawdar in Myanmar. This was the most eventful part of our day.
Before reaching the border, we were stopped by personnel of the Assam Rifles. They checked our temporary Inner Line Permits and recorded our details in a register. The Inner Line Permit, or ILP, is an essential travel document for visitors to Mizoram who are not exempt from the requirement. We had applied for ours online before travelling. The permit had to be checked before we were allowed to proceed further.
After completing the formalities, we continued towards the international bridge over the Tiau River, which forms part of the India–Myanmar boundary in this area.
The bridge was busy. People were moving in both directions, and the settlements on either side stood remarkably close to the river. The international border was not some distant geographical line separating two empty stretches of land. It ran through a lived-in landscape, where people, homes and everyday activities existed on both the sides of the river.
Seeing the movement across the bridge, we naturally assumed that we might be able to cross as well.
We were wrong.
“Only Residents of the Border Area May Cross”
The personnel on duty stopped us and explained that crossing was permitted only to residents of the designated border area—people living within approximately 10 kilometres of the frontier on either side. Other visitors were not allowed to cross.
We tried explaining that we had travelled a considerable distance specifically to visit Rih Dil. We made several requests, hoping that an exception might be possible.
It was no use.
We were told to approach the Commandant. He seemed to be keeping a close watch on the surroundings and gathering information directly from those who lived there instead of sitting on a AC room.
We introduced ourselves and explained our purpose. We told him that we had come from far away and that visiting Rih Dil was the main reason for our journey to Champhai.
Could he please allow us to proceed?
His answer was unequivocal.
“Forget Rih Dil. You cannot even cross that bridge, Madam.”
He pointed towards the Myanmar side and explained that the situation was sensitive. According to him, armed members of a group from Myanmar's Chin State were present on the other side and were watching the area. He also referred to firing the previous night.
We could see people across the bridge, but he warned us that the situation was not as straightforward as it might appear to a casual visitor. From where we stood, everything seemed peaceful. People were moving around, houses stood close to the river, and the bridge looked like an ordinary crossing connecting neighbouring communities.
But a quiet scene does not necessarily mean a safe one.
The Commandant was responsible for our safety as well as the security of the border. He made it clear that he could not permit us to cross.
We tried once more to explain our predicament. After all, we had come all this way.
He finally offered a compromise.
“Come, I will take you halfway across the bridge. That portion belongs to India.”
That was the closest we were going to get to Myanmar.
Halfway Across an International Bridge
The Commandant personally accompanied us to the middle of the bridge.
We stood there, took photographs and looked towards the Myanmar side. The people and houses were so close that the border felt less like a distant international frontier and more like a line running through an interconnected neighbourhood. Yet the difference between the two sides was significant. We could not proceed beyond the point authorised by the security personnel.
We had not reached Rih Dil, but we had experienced something that a routine tourist visit would probably never have offered: a firsthand glimpse of life at a sensitive international border, together with an appreciation of the responsibilities of those guarding it.
The Commandant spoke to us for a while before we turned back. During the conversation, he raised concerns about drug use and HIV in the border region. He made some sweeping claims about the prevalence of HIV among local people. We had no independent way of verifying those figures, so they could not be treated as reliable statistics. Nevertheless, his comments conveyed the seriousness with which he viewed the health and social challenges facing the area.
I could not help recalling the jar of condoms at the tourist lodge reception. Perhaps the two observations were connected in some way; perhaps there were other reasons for making condoms readily available. We had no evidence to establish a direct connection. But the coincidence certainly made us think about the public-health challenges that can exist in remote border communities, often hidden behind beautiful landscapes.
We left the border with mixed feelings. Rih Dil had remained out of reach, but the visit had given us a far more vivid understanding of the realities of the region than a brief tourist crossing could have done.
Sometimes, a closed border teaches you more than an open one.
Late Afternoon — Through the Rice Bowl of Mizoram
With the border visit over, we returned to the countryside around Champhai. Our original itinerary had included Vangchhia, a different destination known for its archaeological remains, carved stones and ancient menhirs. But by now, the clock had made its position clear. Vangchhia lay on a different route, and we simply did not have enough time to include it . We therefore dropped the idea.
Instead, we concentrated on the landscape that had made Champhai famous. The countryside was beautiful. Green rice fields stretched across the valleys, framed by hills that appeared blue in the distance. In places, the land rose and fell in gentle waves, producing a landscape that reminded us of Switzerland. Dipankar thought there was also a striking resemblance to parts of Vietnam.
Both comparisons made sense. The rolling fields and layered hills created a landscape that felt quite different from the denser, steeper scenery around Aizawl.
It was not difficult to understand why Champhai was called the Rice Bowl of Mizoram. Agriculture was not merely an economic activity here; it shaped the entire visual character of the region.
We stopped at a particularly attractive stretch of countryside, got out of the car and spent some time admiring the views. There was no elaborate tourist infrastructure, no grand viewing platform and no need for an entry ticket. Just fields, hills, open sky and the occasional road winding through the landscape.
For travellers accustomed to measuring a destination by its monuments and attractions, this was a useful reminder that sometimes the countryside itself is the attraction.
The Cosmos Fields — A Flowering Season We Had Missed
We also stopped at a hillock associated with the famous cosmos flowers of Mizoram. Cosmos flowers are among the most recognisable seasonal attractions of the Champhai region. During the flowering season, large stretches of countryside can be covered in colourful blooms, transforming the landscape into a spectacular floral display.
October is often associated with the flowering spectacle. Our visit on 18 September, however, was too early for us to expect the full display.We could appreciate the location and its potential, but the complete carpet of flowers that we had imagined was not guaranteed at that time.Nature does not consult a traveller's itinerary before deciding when to bloom.
Early Evening — A Dam, Moonlight and a New Name
As the afternoon wore on, our driver took us to a dam. By then, darkness had begun to settle over the countryside. The water reflected the moonlight, creating a peaceful scene that was quite different from the busy border area we had visited earlier. We stopped for a while to enjoy the view.
It occurred to us that we had spent the entire day travelling with our driver without asking his name. After all the winding roads, sightseeing stops and border negotiations, this seemed a rather elementary omission. So we finally asked him. His name was Faka.
7:00 PM — Back to the Tourist Lodge
We returned to the Champhai Government Tourist Lodge at around 7:00 PM.
The town seemed almost deserted. Shops had closed, the roads were quiet, and the evening had settled over Champhai. It was a fitting end to a long day that had begun before dawn.
Sometimes, the best travel days are not the ones in which every item on the itinerary is ticked off. They are the ones that leave you with stories you could never have planned.
Before leaving the lodge we had informed them about the dinner we want to have at the lodge.
What Changed from the Original Plan?
The original itinerary had been designed around an ambitious circuit: Aizawl, Champhai, the cosmos fields, a vineyard, Vangchhia, Zokhawthar, Rih Dil and a return to Aizawl.
DAY 3 — SATURDAY, 19 SEPTEMBER 2026
CHAMPHAI TO AIZAWL — A LONG DRIVE, A HOTEL FAUX PAS AND A WALK IN THE CLOUDS
Route: Champhai → Aizawl → Solomon’s Temple → Aizawl Skywalk
Night halt: Aizawl
1. Leaving Champhai for Aizawl
We left Champhai at 6:00 AM on 19 September, having arranged to be picked up from the Government Tourist Lodge, where we had spent the previous night. The lodge was government-run, and its location was excellent—a good base for exploring Champhai and its surrounding countryside.
Our return journey to Aizawl was a long one. We finally reached the state capital at around 2:30 PM, after spending much of the day on the road. The journey had begun early, but Mizoram's hilly terrain does not always allow the distance on a map to translate into a short journey.
Champhai–Aizawl Sumo counters
For anyone planning a similar journey, these were the contact details we had noted for shared Sumo services:
- Nuremi Counter: 9612144053
- Tesanga Counter: 961209366
- Chawngi Counter: 03831-235981 / 9436385727
- Sawma Sumo Counter: 03831-234480 / 9436377322
It would be sensible to confirm the current numbers, departure times and availability before travelling, as local transport arrangements can change.
2. The Great Hotel Switch
On reaching Aizawl, we encountered a small but instructive episode in the art of hotel selection.
Dipankar had got to know a Mizo girl through social media, and, on her recommendation, we changed our original hotel arrangement. Unfortunately, this turned out to be a mistake—the new choice did not work out as expected.
Fortunately, Anjan came to the rescue with a recommendation for another hotel, where he himself had stayed on the first day. We shifted there and deposited our luggage.
The episode was a useful reminder that a recommendation from someone familiar with a place can be invaluable—but a recommendation obtained through social media may still require a little due diligence. In travel, even a minor change of hotel can become a small adventure of its own.
3. Exploring Aizawl by Car
Once we had settled in, we arranged an Alto car through the hotel for ₹2,500. The hotel staff also helped us plan the afternoon's itinerary, which was particularly useful when time was limited.
Our first destination was Solomon’s Temple, followed by the Aizawl Skywalk.
Solomon’s Temple
Solomon’s Temple is one of Aizawl's prominent landmarks and an important part of the city's religious and cultural landscape. It offered us another perspective on Mizoram, where Christianity has a strong presence and religious buildings form a distinctive feature of the urban scenery.
The visit also served as a reminder that travelling through a place is not merely about its landscapes. Its faith, architecture and everyday cultural life are equally important to understanding it.
Aizawl Skywalk — Better with a Little Rain
From Solomon’s Temple, we proceeded to the Skywalk. This turned out to be one of the highlights of our afternoon.
The Skywalk was very good and, in my opinion, well worth visiting. The elevated viewpoint offered an enjoyable way to appreciate Aizawl's dramatic setting amid the hills.
As we were there, it began to rain. Far from spoiling the visit, the rain made the experience even more atmospheric. The misty hills and the changing light gave the surroundings an added charm. We paused for some tea and coffee, allowing ourselves a little break after the long journey from Champhai.
Sometimes, the weather refuses to follow the itinerary but improves the experience anyway. The rain at the Skywalk was a case in point.
4. What We Missed: Mizoram State Museum
The Mizoram State Museum had been on our original list, but we had to drop it for lack of time.
In retrospect, the museum would have been a useful complement to what we had already seen in Champhai and along the way. It provides context for Mizo history, culture, traditional dress, lifestyle and ethnographic traditions. Such a visit can help a traveller understand the people and customs encountered in villages and the countryside, rather than viewing them merely as picturesque elements of the landscape.
But travel itineraries, like government files, sometimes have to be prioritised. After the long drive from Champhai, the hotel change and the visits to Solomon’s Temple and the Skywalk, the museum had to be sacrificed.
5. Night Stay in Aizawl
We spent the night in Aizawl. After an early start and a substantial road journey, followed by an afternoon of sightseeing, the day had been full enough.
This
is another long driving day, but the combination of forest, countryside,
waterfall and traditional culture makes it worthwhile.
Because
it is Sunday, the day is designed primarily around outdoor attractions.
A
dedicated SUV with an experienced local driver is strongly preferred.
Early
breakfast is important.
Approximately 50 km south of Aizawl, around 1,619 metres
elevation.
Activities:
·
Forest viewpoints
·
Grasslands
·
Mountain views
·
Nature walk
·
Mizo villages
·
Photography
Hmuifang
lies between Aizawl and Thenzawl, making it a natural stop on this route.
Keep this deliberately
short.
·
Mountain viewpoints
·
Scenic landscape
·
Photography
If weather conditions
are particularly good, spend a little more time here.
If not, move on.
Explore:
·
Town
·
Landscape
·
Handloom/craft area, if open
·
Golf Resort area
·
Scenic viewpoints
Lunch - Have lunch around Thenzawl.
This is one of the principal highlights of the trip.
Vantawng Falls is approximately 750 feet high and is
described as Mizoram’s highest waterfall.
·
Viewing tower
·
Waterfall photography
·
Surrounding hills
·
Scenic landscape
·
If practical, look towards Tuirihiau
Falls as well
Vantawng is particularly
attractive from September onward, although road conditions can change quickly
during the monsoon.
The September–January
period is considered a favourable period for the waterfall.
This is the cultural stop I have deliberately added to Day 4. Falkawn is only around 18 km south of Aizawl, making it a
practical late-afternoon stop on the return journey.
Explore:
·
Traditional Mizo houses
·
Zawlbuk — traditional dormitory
·
Lal In — Chief’s house
·
Traditional village structures
·
Cultural displays
There are two
principal heritage-village experiences around Aizawl. This is one of them :
·
Reiek Village —
approximately 30 km
·
Falkawn Village —
approximately 18 km
The traditional
structures provide a glimpse into earlier Mizo life and architecture.
If energy and weather permit, choose one final Aizawl sunset
viewpoint.
If the timing works naturally: Sakawrhmuituai sunset — only if feasible.
Otherwise, skip it.
Try:
·
Local pork
·
Mizo chicken
·
Local vegetables
·
Herbs
·
Bai
·
Sawhchiar
·
Smoked pork preparations
If time permits we may visit the State Museum, Solomon’s Temple etc before proceeding to Lengpui
Airport.
6:30 AM - Breakfast and check out.
After a 1.5-hour scenic drive from Aizawl, arrive at Reiek, a charming village.
Reiek (25–30 km away). Spend 2–4 hours.
• Activities: Reiek Peak hike, viewpoint,
• Reiek Heritage Village - A model Mizo village was also built for the visitors there.Head to Zokhua, a traditional Mizo village.
Peek into ancient Mizo life and architecture (if it cannot be covered on day 4).
# We hired a car for Reiek as we could not find any proper public vehicle for Reiek that would suit our time.
• 12:00–1:15 PM: Return to Aizawl.
• ~1:15 PM: Leave for Lengpui Airport. Reach by 2:30 PM
Keep sufficient buffer for the mountain road.
IndiGo 6E-6552
Aizawl (AJL): 15:55
Guwahati (GAU): 16:45
Aircraft: Airbus A320
Duration: 50 minutes
Guwahati (GAU): 21:10
Kolkata (CCU): 22:25
Aircraft: Airbus A320
Duration: 1 hour 15 minutes
22:25 Arrive Kolkata
Urban Mizo life, markets, food,
culture and hills.
Mountain scenery, hiking and
heritage.
Forests, grasslands, villages
and countryside.
Waterfall, landscape and the
dramatic southern hills.
And the eastern extension adds a
fifth dimension:
Rice fields, vineyards,
flowers, archaeology and the Myanmar frontier.
· Covers urban culture,
mountains, forests, countryside, archaeology and waterfalls
·
Adds the distinctive eastern
Mizoram experience of Champhai
·
Includes vineyard and possible
cosmos-flower viewing
·
Includes Vangchhia
·
Keeps Rih Dil as an optional
border excursion subject to current permissions
·
Adds Falkawn/Zokhua without
creating another separate day
·
Uses flexible outdoor
activities that can be adjusted according to weather
·
Keeps the final day free from
risky long-distance sightseeing
Traditionally considered an
excellent period for:
·
Clear skies
·
Beautiful sunsets
·
Misty mornings
·
Better trekking conditions
September offers:
·
Green and lush landscapes
·
Monsoon greenery
·
Dramatic mountain scenery
But:
·
Weather can be unpredictable
·
Rain is possible
·
Roads can become challenging
The tourism
information I have collected also indicates that September to January can be
a good period, particularly when visibility is good.
The important point
is that September remains a potentially wet month.
A scooty can be a
convenient way to explore Aizawl if one is confident riding on steep hill
roads.
Bike taxis are also
available.
For the long-distance days,
particularly Champhai and Vantawng, a dedicated SUV with an experienced local
driver is the safer and more practical option.
One thing I am particularly curious to experience in Aizawl is its
youth culture.
Music, fashion and football appear to be deeply woven into
contemporary Mizo life.
The young people of Aizawl are often described as being remarkably
fashionable, with modern international styles visible everywhere — at offices,
in markets and while socialising.
Traditional Mizo attire is more commonly seen during family
functions and church occasions.
Football is another major part of contemporary Mizo culture. Lallianzuala Chhangte, Jeje Lalpekhlua, Shylo Malsawmtluanga (Mama),Lalengmawia Ralte (Apuia) are some of the famous footballers
The sport has a huge following, and Mizoram’s football team has
developed a strong reputation at the national level.
This is going to be an important part of my trip.
A definitive Mizo dish — pork or fish slow-cooked with bamboo shoot,
taro leaves and local herbs.
Deeply savoury, warming and unmistakably Mizo.
A thick rice congee cooked with pork or chicken.
Mizo comfort food and traditionally eaten as breakfast and recovery
food.
Smoked pork preparations.
The aroma of wood-smoked pork is one of the signatures of Mizo
markets.
Boiled vegetables, often leafy greens, accompanied by fermented fish
paste.
Simple and distinctly local.
Pork with spring onion.
Simple but potentially extremely flavourful.
Traditional Mizo rice beer.
Note: alcohol rules and availability
should be checked locally; this is retained here as part of the research notes
rather than as a recommendation to consume it.
· Fresh
· Simple
· Less oily
· Pork-heavy
· Affordable
Described in my research
as a celebrated Mizo restaurant in Aizawl, with authentic home-style cooking.
Several options
around the Zarkawt commercial area, offering Mizo and continental food.
Morning stalls for
sawhchiar and local snacks.
Some churches
reportedly operate community kitchens open to visitors, offering an interesting
window into local food culture and tlawmngaihna.
Although it is not part of this September journey, this is something
worth remembering for a future trip.
Chapchar Kut is held in the first week
of March and celebrates the completion of jhum/shifting-cultivation clearing
work.
The festival features:
·
Music
·
Dance
·
Feasting
·
Cheraw
·
Khuallam
·
Chai
The iconic Mizo
bamboo dance, in which dancers step between pairs of bamboo poles rhythmically
clapped together.
The traditional “dance of the
guests”, associated with welcoming important visitors.
A community dance performed by
groups moving together rhythmically.
First week of March.
Exact dates follow the traditional
Mizo calendar.
Accommodation and flights should
be booked well in advance.
One of the most
fascinating social concepts in Mizoram.
Shopkeepers
leave their produce with the prices clearly displayed and a container for
payment.
Customers
simply deposit the money and take the goods.
No shopkeeper.
No elaborate security.
Just trust.
It is a
beautiful example of community-based honesty and social responsibility.
0389-2341083
/ 2349421
03831-235866 /
9436143518
9436379544
9366078543
03838-261489 /
9612065527 / 9863352362
8415841566
The information I
have collected suggests that these lodges can generally be contacted by phone
for bookings.
If plans change
and the lodge is no longer required, inform them.
The
research notes say the hosts were very welcoming and prepared local vegetarian
food on request.
Travel agent and operator
of the cafeteria at Thenzawl Golf Resort.
Runs a homestay in
Aizawl and can reportedly arrange car rentals.
Ro Pianga - Zokhawthar Tourist Lodge - +91 98622 02975
Chawngtlai R - Champhai Tour Guide - +91 98625 38351
Indian travellers
need an Inner Line Permit (ILP) before entering Mizoram.
Application: - https://ilp.mizoram.gov.in/
The research notes
mention a processing period of approximately 5–7 days.
Sunset
can be as early as around 4:30 PM.
Therefore,
sunset viewpoints should be planned early rather than treated as a late-evening
activity.
Aizawl has a strong café culture.
One café specifically noted in
my research.
Shopping can be comparatively
expensive because many goods come from outside the state.
And remember:
Sunday - Many shops and establishments
remain closed.
Sunday is fundamentally a church and family day.
Almost everything can become quiet.
The city may feel dramatically different from Saturday.
Therefore:
·
Do not depend on shopping on
Sunday
·
Do not depend heavily on
restaurants
·
Finish essential purchases
beforehand
·
Keep Sunday focused on outdoor
attractions
·
Carry food/snacks when
travelling
My research notes also mention that church attendance is a major
part of Sunday life and that many establishments close early.
September is still monsoon season.
Therefore:
·
Carry waterproof bags
·
Carry rain gear
·
Keep electronics protected
·
Expect sudden rain
·
Allow flexibility in the
schedule
·
Hire experienced local drivers
Mountain roads can be steep and winding.
·
Umbrella
·
Rain jacket/raincoat
·
Waterproof footwear
· Waterproof bags
· Power bank
·
Small daypack
The general principle for this trip:
Start early.
The research notes suggest that early morning travel — roughly 6–8
AM — can mean better road conditions and less traffic.
For the Champhai expedition, an even earlier start may be necessary.
These are deliberately not part of this 5-day itinerary, but
remain on my Mizoram list.
Located around
Murlen village.
Known for its dense
forest and biodiversity, including plant species, mammals such as tiger,
leopard and sambar, and birds including pheasants and partridges.
Also
known as Phawngpui National Park.
Centred
around Phawngpui Mountain and its surrounding forest reserve.
Known
for birdlife and rare animals including tiger, leopard and capped langur.
And this is perhaps the most important section of the itinerary.
Five days are simply not enough to see Mizoram properly.
By keeping Aizawl as the base and refusing to change hotels every
night, I am deliberately leaving several important parts of the state for
another trip.
The highest peak
of Mizoram and the mountain associated with the state’s famous “Blue Mountain”
identity.
This deserves a
separate trip rather than being squeezed into five days.
A major forest and
wildlife destination in eastern Mizoram.
It needs
considerably more time than a quick roadside stop.
A completely different southern
Mizoram experience.
The distance and road time make
it unsuitable for this particular five-day itinerary.
Another major southern
destination and gateway towards the Blue Mountain region.
Again, this needs its own
journey.
Farther south and therefore
outside the practical range of this short trip.
There
are numerous small Mizo villages and lesser-known viewpoints which cannot
realistically be incorporated into a fixed five-day schedule.
These
are the places best discovered through local drivers and residents.
A well-known lake destination
which I am leaving out this time.
It would require rearranging the
existing route and would dilute the Champhai/Vantawng focus.
I will pass through/near
the broader Serchhip region during the southern journey, but I am not giving it
a dedicated exploration day.
Even the
Champhai day only scratches the surface.
There are other
places around the district that would be better explored with an overnight
stay.
Zokhawthar and
Rih Dil are themselves only a glimpse of the eastern frontier.
A future trip
could be designed specifically around the border region.
This is not an attempt to “finish Mizoram” in five days.
It
is an attempt to experience as many different sides of Mizoram as possible
while maintaining one simple rule:
Sleep in Aizawl every night and return to Kolkata on 21 September.
The journey therefore becomes a series of contrasting experiences:
Aizawl — city and culture
Reiek — mountains
Champhai — rice fields, vineyards and flowers
Vangchhia — ancient history
Zokhawthar & Rih Dil — the Myanmar frontier
Hmuifang — forests and countryside
Sialsuk — mountain scenery
Thenzawl — town, crafts and countryside
Vantawng — waterfall
Falkawn/Zokhua — traditional Mizo life
https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Mizoram
