FAQs on Chit funds

West Bengal’s ‘chit fund’ mess and inaction of MCA 

VINOD KOTHARI | 

The massive money, which is raised surely shows somewhere on the balancesheet of the company, filed regularly with the MCA. The primary recipient of the information about these companies is the MCA, and surprisingly the MCA is the least proactive in the entire process of bringing these perpetrators to regulatory focus, sooner before tonnes of money vanish

As the bottom-of-the-pyramid population continues to fret about having lost one’s life savings in the West Bengal “chit funds”, it is interesting to find politicians promising new stringent laws against such funds. In fact, law-making is the least of the reasons for suchschemes to have flourished in the state. However, as political connections of one of many that have gone bad are exposed, the easy face-wash for the politicians is in law-making, to cover-up what is quintessentially an implementation issue. The reality is that we are not short of such laws—in fact, we have a plenty of laws that prohibit such schemes and impose sternest penalties for the perpetrators of such scams. But if a Rs22,000-crorescheme questions the very institutions that define our system—Supreme Court, SEBI, or whoever else—there is little surprise that the only succour for political face-saving is in law-making. And this is what we have done over the decades—as the write up below shows.

This article gives a quick overview of the laws regarding “chit funds” or devices of sourcing public deposits.

First of all, the West Bengal “chit funds” are not chit funds at all. Chit funds are a different structure altogether. Chit funds are mutual credit groups where money circulates among the group members, and the monthly contributions of the chit members are received circularly by one of the members who bids for the same at the highest interest rate or lowest “net present value”. Chit funds are perfectly legal, if they are registered under the Chit Funds Act, 1982, and run under the provisions of the law. The several names that keep popping up in West Bengal are not chit funds—these are collective investmentschemes  or public deposit schemes which on the face of it do not fall under any law, as they are structured so as to be neither a “public deposit” nor a “collective investmentscheme”. But that facial structure is so gullible that any regulatory investigation may easily expose that these schemes were effectively nothing but public deposit schemes.

The evolution of regulatory structure in India is a rare case of human learning—we have burnt our fingers every time to learn that the fire is too hot to handle. So, every scam brought a law; in essence, the law is the edifice built on scams and not on intuition.

• • Deposit regulation: These rules were inserted in the Companies Act in 1975 after several cotton mills in Gujarat and Maharasthra burnt public savings.  In fact, India is one of the few countries in the world which allows non-banking companies to raise deposits from the public. World-over, access to public deposits is allowed only to banks. In India, companies may raise pubic deposits—however, subject to provisions of Section 58A of the Companies Act. This allows only deposits to the extent of 25% of the net worth of the company, places restrictions on interest rates, brokerage, etc.
• • Chit fund laws and money circulation scheme laws: Money circulation schemeswere banned by a law in 1978, after Sanchayita Investments went down with money pooled from a few lakh investors in West Bengal. Soon after, chit funds became a hotpolitical issue, leading to chit fund law in 1982.
• • NBFC Regulations: Non-banking financial companies (NBFCs) are allowed to raise deposits up to 10 times their net worth, but this privilege is granted only to so-called “depository NBFCs”. This is a fairly well-regulated institution coming under the RBI, and the regulations have been toned after hard lessons were learnt with the CRB scam of 1997. Accordingly, NBFC Directions were framed in 1998 after few hundreds of NBFCs had gone down with public savings.
• • Private placement scams: Several hundred companies raised money by way of “private placement” of shares taking advantage of a Companies Act provision whereby only “public offers” required regulation by the securities regulators (now Securities and Exchange Board of India—SEBI, earlier Controller of Capital Issues). This resulted into a “deeming rule” in Section 67 of the Companies Act, inserted in 2000, whereby any offer of securities to 50 or more persons was deemed to be a public offer.
• • Collective investment scheme regulations: Plantation companies with schemessuch as “money grows on trees” continues to raise public money against collectiveinvestment schemes, and it took SEBI several years before the Collective InvestmentScheme Regulations were framed in 1999. A collective investment scheme is one where public money is raised for investment in any asset or scheme, other than by way of shares, deposits, mutual funds, etc.
• • Alternative investment funds: This is a new a regulatory instrument under SEBI, to regulate privately pooled vehicles for collective investments. This became effective in 2012. This is by far the only regulation which is not “reactive”.

So, with all these laws, how to scamsters still end up raising several thousands of crores? Obviously, so much money is neither raised overnight, nor raised silently enough, as there is a massive machinery of agents who raise the money from the very bottom of the population pyramid. Each scamster innovates an ingenious device, but none of these devices are not iron-clad to avoid regulatory action, provided there was a will power.

Here is an inclusive inventory of the schemes currently in use:

• • Debentures: Sahara used the argument that (a) Sahara was issuing optionally convertible debentures which were not ‘securities’ under securities laws, and hence, were free from the securities regulations, and were not ‘deposits’ under the deposit regulations, and therefore, to be regulated by none. The Supreme Court ruling has rubbished the first argument.
• • NBFC companies: The Companies Act rule restricting issue of  securities to less than 50 in order to escape the “deemed public offer” rule does not apply to NBFCs—hence, several of the “chit funds” use an NBFC to raise instruments such as debentures not regulated under public deposit rules.
• • Preference shares: Some of the entities issue preference shares to the depositors. A preference share is essentially the capital of the company, and not a deposit.
• • Land deals: Some companies contend as if the so-called depositor places order for purchase of land by the promoter. Later on, the land deal is cancelled, and money is returned with interest.
• • Advances for purchase of goods: Some operators show as if the ‘deposit’ had actually placed an advance for purchase of goods. The order is later cancelled and money is refunded with interest.

No matter what is the device used, the common thread in each of these schemes is that the flow of new ‘depositors’ must keep coming in, because the only source from which maturing deposits could be serviced is by inflows from new depositors. Money is initially raised at hefty interest rates, and with attractive periodic prizes, gifts, gala parties, and so on. The agents who mobilise the deposits are given hefty commissions, because the structure essentially relies on a highly incentivised structure of brokers or agents, who reach right to the doors of the depositors to collect deposits. The cost of interest, plus the agency commissions, the luxurious spendings on so-called depositor prizes, and add to all this the lavish remunerations of the promoters themselves—all adds to a huge cost of interest, say, about 25% to 30%, which no lawful business may produce. It is not that these promoters are blue-eyed investors who know tricks of investing—so, they end upinvesting money in illiquid properties, resorts or hotels.

Now, the only way to keep servicing investors is that new depositors must flow in, so that old depositors can be repaid. That is, the base of the depositor pyramid has to continue to expand so that those up in pyramid can be paid—this is what Ponzi schemes are all about.  This is what we call “tiger riding”.

Soon, the ride comes to and, and guess what happens at the end of any tiger ride! In the process, thousands of gullible investors have lost their life savings.

As hundreds of crores are raised though tens of thousands of agents, surely enough the exercise is not invisible to the regulatory eye. The massive money which is raised, irrespective of the label, surely shows somewhere on the balance sheet of the company, which is filed regularly with the MCA (ministry of corporate affairs). The primary recipient of the information about these companies is the MCA, and surprisingly, it is the MCA which is the least proactive in the entire process of bringing these perpetrators to regulatory focus, sooner before tonnes of money vanish.

No, it certainly is not the lack of laws that allows these scamsters to rob people of hard-earned money. It is clearly an implementation issue.

(The author is a noted expert in financial laws. A lots of author’s writings appear atwww.india-financing.com and www.vinodkothari.com)

My personal experience

Now I have to report the readers some personal information I have about these companies. All these companies (CIS) publish a brochure which follows a typical pattern – in the front page there is a picture of landing of plane, an European lady working a call centre with head phone and pictures of some multi-storeyed building (in fact Sei Samay from TOI group on 12.5.13. reported how Saradha group ventured into , at least on paper, aviation sector, call centre or business process outsourcing – to show that the company is into these businesses. In the second page there is a picture of Certificate of Incorporation (COI) given by Registrar of companies, unit of MCA (which comes with Ashok’s stambha emblem). The reason behind this is to tell investors that it is guaranteed by Govt of India. Actually, technical meaning of this COI is, company is in existence and is legally incorporated (i.e. duly submitted memorandum of association, article of association, paid fees as per norms). First time I saw this brochure is when I was going travelling from Bishnupur to Garpanchakot in 2009.In fact on 13.5.13. The Telegraph reported a similar investigative story (how COI given by ROC is shown as proof of Government approval of such scheme).  About three years back my close friend (who was working in a senior position of a segment of capital market) was approached by the management of an MLM Company. My friend was explained that he need not do anything. He has to appoint some agents, who will work under him. Nobody will get to see him even. He will work from the background. For that he will be given a hefty commission. It was also explained to him that after some point of time they will issue shares in lieu of debentures at a premium (i.e. against a debenture of Rs 100 they will be given equity share worth Rs 200) and then will manipulate the market to make the value of share to almost nil. Then the holders of the shares cannot legitimately claim anything against them (however yours truly thinks this is not possible due to strict guidelines issued by SEBI in recent years) . When he explained his inability he was told if you do not join, somebody else will join. We Bengalis are “know it all people “. We seem to know everything under the sun, but the moment they are told fairy tales of money growing in trees, they will forget everything and will fall for greed. They are called “sab janta gamchawala”. They know everything, but at the end of the day they will sale only gamcha (towel). So the greed is God.

But for people who works in the household as domestic help the scenario is somewhat different. They are embarrassed to deposit Rs 100 in the bank and they do not know how to fill up the deposit slip -  which the agents happily do it for them. According to me the solution lies in banks being more proactive in banking correspondent model (as part of financial inclusion – many banks have become pro-active in this matter and Saradha issue will make it more compelling case) and for that Aadhar card or any biometric card will be of great help.

Tomar nam amar nam Vietnam !

In search of Hindu kingdom of Champa in Vietnam

27.03.13. Kolkata : 1235  hrs > - Bangkok 1700 hrs
28.03.13. Bangkok>Hanoi (0930 hrs)

29.03.13. Halong Bay

30.03.13. Halong Bay>Cat Ba

31.03.13. Cat Ba > Halong City > Hanoi (1700 hrs) > Hue by bus
01.04.13  Hue (1700 hrs)
02.04.13  Hue (0800 hrs) > Hoi An (1200 hrs)
03.04.13  Hoi An  > My Son > boat-making village > wood-carving village > Hoi An 

04.04.13. Hoi An  > Da Nang > Hoi An >  Na Trang by bus

05.04.13. Na Trang  > Po Nagar > Na Trang 
06.04.13. Na Trang  > Ho Chi Minh City (20 00 hrs)
07.04.13. Ho Chi Minh City Tour >Airport>Bangkok
08.04.13  Bangkok>CCU

      27.03.2013

           

Kolkata, West Bengal, India (12:35 am)

   Holi was celebrated in Kolkata on this day, but thankfully, there were plenty of taxis available to get us to the airport without any hassle. After a smooth flight, we arrived in Bangkok (BKK) around 5 pm. Once we completed the Visa on Arrival procedure, we had a little time to explore Bangkok before continuing our journey.

     The Embassy in Kolkata had mentioned that carrying at least 500 USD in hard currency was mandatory for the Visa on Arrival. However, I discovered that the visa fee had to be paid strictly in Thai Baht (THB), not USD, contrary to what the consulate had advised. The fee was 1,000 THB, and it turned out to be slightly cheaper to arrange the visa beforehand in India. Interestingly, I also learnt that there was no transit visa option at BKK airport. For practical purposes, multiple-entry visas seemed non-existent—quite different from Malaysia's flexible visa policies. It felt like Thailand's visa regime was unnecessarily restrictive!

   Since we had a few hours to spare, we took a quick city tour. We visited the Victory Monument and wandered around the bustling Siam Square, all with our backpacks in tow. Despite the brief tour, I could already feel the city’s vibrant energy.

      Later, we returned to the airport and settled down to rest for the night, as we had an early morning flight to Ha Noi. Sleeping at the airport wasn’t the most comfortable experience, but the anticipation of exploring Vietnam kept our spirits high.

28.03.2013

      

 Hanoi, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi (9:30 am)

     We opted for Visa on Arrival, although we had already completed the online visa approval process beforehand. For the stamping fee, we paid $45 USD. In total, the visa process cost us a hefty ₹5,500!

Understand

     Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam and its second-largest city, is a fascinating blend of Eastern and Western influences, seamlessly combining traditional Sino-Vietnamese motifs with French colonial elegance. Remarkably, the city emerged largely unscathed from decades of war and is now undergoing a building boom, rapidly transforming into a modern hub in Southeast Asia. As a city with over a thousand years of history, Hanoi has stood resilient through invasions, occupations, and political shifts, making it a fine choice for the nation's capital.

     Historically, Hanoi was known as Thang Long, the imperial city conquered by the Chinese in 1408 and renamed Tống Bình. This occupation ended in 1428, thanks to Le Loi's leadership, who ascended the throne as Lê Thái Tổ. In 1831, the Nguyen Dynasty renamed the city Ha Noi, though by then the political centre had shifted to Hue. Hanoi rose to prominence again in 1887 when the French declared it the capital of French Indochina. 

     The city’s role as a capital was cemented after the First Indochina War when it became the seat of power for North Vietnam in 1954. It was fought between France and Việt Minh (Democratic Republic of Vietnam), from 19 December 1946 until 21 July 1954.Việt Minh was led by Võ Nguyên Giáp and Hồ Chí Minh.

   The fall of Saigon on April 30, 1975, marked the end of a Vietnam divided into the communist North and US-allied South. The fall of Saigon was a “glorious landmark” that ended a 30-year fight for independence that began with the fight to oust French colonial troops. At Independence Palace, a North Vietnamese tank smashed through the gates on the final day of the war. Saigon, the former South Vietnamese capital, was renamed Ho Chi Minh City after it fell to North Vietnamese and Viet Cong troops.

    The end of the war with the US resulted into formation of its modern nation. In 2023, Vietnam upgraded its relations with the US to that of a comprehensive strategic partner, the highest diplomatic status it gives to any country and the same level of relations as China and Russia. (www.telegraphindia.com/world/vietnam-celebrates-50-years-of-wars-end-with-focus-on-peace-and-unity-prnt/cid/)

  The Việt Minh was a nationalist and communist movement fighting primarily for independence from French colonial rule.

     Geographical Focus: Primarily active in northern Vietnam, the Việt Minh's influence was instrumental in establishing the Democratic Republic of Vietnam in the North

     Leadership : Hồ Chí Minh and the Indochinese Communist Party

     Outcome : Led to the establishment of North Vietnam 

    

    The Viet Cong or National Liberation Front (NLF) was a communist insurgency that fought to topple the South Vietnamese government and helped unify Vietnam under communist rule after the Vietnam War.

    Geographical Focus: Operating mainly in South Vietnam, the Viet Cong utilized the Ho Chi Minh Trail—a network of supply routes through Laos and Cambodia—to facilitate movement and logistic

    Leadership National Liberation Front, aligned with North Vietnam

    Outcome : Contributed to the fall of Saigon and reunification of Vietnam

     So they were active in different time periods, had different objectives, and operated under different political circumstances. The Việt Minh focused on ending colonial rule, whereas the Viet Cong sought to reunify Vietnam during the Vietnam War. Hồ Chí Minh was the founder, leader, and the ideological face of the Việt Minh movement. He personally led the struggle against French colonial rule and later became the President of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam (North Vietnam).

    The Viet Cong (NLF) was a southern communist-led insurgency. Therefore Hồ Chí Minh was not directly involved in field operations, he was still the President of North Vietnam until 1969, a symbol of inspiration and a unifying figure for the southern insurgents. Actively involved in strategic planning and ideological support through North Vietnamese leadership, especially in the early 1960s. After his death in 1969, the Viet Cong and North Vietnamese forces continued fighting under his ideological legacy — to the extent that the final push to reunify Vietnam in 1975 was often framed as fulfilling “Uncle Hồ’s dream.” Hồ Chí Minh's involvement was more symbolic and strategic, rather than direct operational leadership, especially as he aged and his health declined.

   Hanoi's scholarly history is just as illustrious. The city was home to Vietnam’s first institution of learning, Quoc Tu Giam, established in the 11th century. Nearly nine centuries later, Hanoi also hosted Vietnam's first Western-style universities. Today, it continues to serve as a centre for scientific study and research in the country.

    Despite its turbulent history, Hanoi retains a remarkable old-world charm. Conflict and historical preservation have inadvertently shielded the city from excessive modernisation, and as a result, the skyline remains mostly low-rise, with buildings rarely exceeding five stories in the city centre. The Old Quarter, with its narrow, atmospheric streets and well-preserved colonial and pre-colonial architecture, rivals Hoi An for its historical allure.

    Unlike the bustling and sprawling Ho Chi Minh City in the south, Hanoi offers a more understated charm. It is a city to be savoured, ideal for an extended stay to explore its layered history, culture, and cuisine. With its efficient transport options and abundance of travel agents, Hanoi also serves as the perfect base for excursions to Northern Vietnam, offering endless opportunities for exploration.

Get in

From Noi Bai Airport to Central Hanoi

     Getting from Noi Bai Airport to central Hanoi is straightforward, with taxis being the most convenient option. Fixed-price taxi stands are located just outside the airport exit, offering fares to the city for approximately USD 17. These taxis provide a hassle-free option, ensuring transparency and a guaranteed fare.

    For those considering non-fixed-price taxis, be cautious. Agents outside the arrival hall may quote prices ranging from USD 15 to USD 30, but the fare you agree upon with the agent might not align with the expectations of the driver. Always confirm the price directly with the driver before getting into the car to avoid any surprises.

    In summary, the best and most reliable option is to take a fixed-price taxi from one of the authorised companies stationed outside the arrival hall. It offers peace of mind and ensures you start your Hanoi adventure on the right note!

Getting from Noi Bai Airport to Central Hanoi: Public Buses and Shuttle Buses

     For those seeking an affordable and local experience, public buses offer a budget-friendly way to get from Noi Bai Airport to the city centre. The journey takes about 1.5 hours, and Bus #17 is a popular choice. It crosses the Chuong Duong Bridge and stops near the Old Quarter, in Long Bien, just a few blocks from Hoan Kiem Lake—one of Hanoi's most famous landmarks. The fare is only 7,000 dong, making it a very economical option. Don't be misled by taxi drivers or shuttle bus operators who claim that the public bus stop is far away or that the service has been discontinued. Public buses run between 05:00 and 22:00, and all of them are air-conditioned and comfortable. Unlike in India, where you might pay at a kiosk, here you pay the driver directly, which is a small but interesting difference.

     If you prefer more direct transport, the airport shuttle buses are another option. These buses stop at the Vietnam Airlines Office on 1 Quang Trung, which is slightly south of the Old Quarter. Though it's a bit further from the heart of the city, it’s a convenient spot with taxis and motorbike drivers readily available. The shuttle costs US$2 (or 40,000 dong) for foreigners, and 35,000 dong for Vietnamese passengers. Be aware that if you have extra luggage, the driver may give you some trouble, but don’t hesitate to insist on paying the same rate. These shuttle buses run hourly, and after getting off at Long Bien Bridge, I grabbed a taxi for 40,000 dong to reach our hotel.

     Once we arrived at the hotel, which was conveniently located, we dropped off our luggage and set off to book our Ha Long Bay tour at one of the Sinh Cafes. Afterward, we enjoyed lunch and spent the rest of the afternoon strolling around Hanoi, as the day tour had already departed.

 Get around

Transport in Hanoi: Taxis, Cyclos, and Motorbike Taxis

      Taxis are the best option for long-distance travel, but if you're looking for something more affordable for shorter trips, cyclos (pedicabs) are a great choice. However, be aware that taxi fares in Hanoi are not always consistent, and different taxi companies do not follow standardized rates. For solo travellers, motorbike taxis, known locally as xe om (meaning "motorbike-hug"), are a popular and inexpensive way to get around. These motorbike drivers can be found on nearly every corner, particularly in the Old Quarter. If you choose this mode of transport, it’s a good idea to write down the agreed-upon fare (with all zeros) to avoid any misunderstandings later on. Even if you speak Vietnamese, a driver might try to claim you agreed to a fare of 50,000 dong instead of the intended 15,000 dong. As a rule of thumb, a typical 10-minute ride should cost no more than 15,000-20,000 dong, and drivers will often accept US dollars as payment as well.

     Interestingly, the US dollar is commonly used in Hanoi, and many vendors will happily accept it as currency. In fact, we had an amusing experience when Mohua paid a fruit vendor with a $10 note, and the vendor returned 9 USD in change!

By Bus: A Cheap and Reliable Option

   Buses in Hanoi are a scam-free, budget-friendly way to get around, though they may be a bit challenging to navigate at first. Despite this, the buses are relatively fast and surprisingly comfortable. To make your journey easier, pick up a map with printed bus routes at Trang Tien Street (the book street near the Opera House). Take a few minutes to familiarize yourself with the over 60 bus lines, find your bus stop, and wait for the bus to arrive. A one-way fare is only 5,000 dong, offering an affordable way to explore the city.

By Metro: The Upcoming Addition to Hanoi's Transport System

     Hanoi is set to be serviced by a metro system, expected to be operational around 2015. Construction for the metro began in 2010, promising to add more convenience to the city's growing public transport options in the coming years.

See

Museums  (NOTE: ALMOST ALL CLOSED ON MONDAYS)

Temple of Literature: A Walk Through History

     Since the Temple of Literature was not far from our hotel, we decided to walk there and take in the city along the way. On our journey, we stopped for some refreshing shakes, where we met a kind and friendly local girl who guided us to the temple. Founded in 1070, the Temple of Literature was established as Vietnam's first university just six years later. The courtyard is home to numerous stone tablets, each mounted on the back of a tortoise, engraved with the names of graduates spanning centuries. The entry fee was around 30,000 dong.

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum: A Somber Experience

     Since it was already late, we had to skip the Museum of Ethnology and instead made our way to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum on foot. The mausoleum is open from 08:00 to 11:00 AM, with the last entry at 10:15. While Ho Chi Minh’s name is synonymous with Saigon in the south, only Hanoi holds the man himself, preserved in a distinctly Lenin-esque fashion—despite it being against his wishes. We arrived after closing time, so we sat on the footpath in front of the mausoleum. The grounds surrounding it were impeccably clean, much like a spotless home. We also passed the Presidential Palace, and from there, the view of the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, especially lit up at night, was stunning.

Museum of Ethnology: A Missed Opportunity

     Unfortunately, we didn't have the chance to visit the Museum of Ethnology (Bao Tang Dan Toc Hoc Vietnam) on Nguyen Van Huyen Street. This museum showcases the culture and rituals of Vietnam’s many ethnic groups. A highlight is the open-air exhibition featuring houses from various ethnic communities, complete with inhabitants dressed in traditional costumes. It’s a must-see in Hanoi, and we were disappointed to have missed it.

Hoan Kiem Lake: A Peaceful Retreat

      Next, we headed to Hoan Kiem Lake, a pleasant park located at the heart of Hanoi, just a short walk from the Old Quarter. It's a popular leisure spot for the locals, and a great place for people-watching. The lake’s name, "Hoan Kiem," means "returned sword," which is tied to a local legend. According to the tale, King Le Loi was given a magical sword by the gods to defeat the Chinese invaders. While boating on the lake, he encountered a giant turtle, which grabbed the sword and took it into the depths, returning it to the gods. It’s said that giant turtles still live in the lake today.

     A mummified specimen of one of these turtles is on display at Ngoc Son Temple, located on a small island in the middle of the lake. Sitting by the lake reminded me of a similar one back home in South Kolkata, although Hoan Kiem Lake is encircled by a road, unlike the more secluded lake in Kolkata. The circumference of both lakes seemed almost identical.

      In the evening, we walked around the lake again, enjoying the serene atmosphere. A group of women were doing free-hand exercises, adding to the lively, yet tranquil ambiance. The legend of Hoan Kiem Lake is also depicted at the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre, located just across the street. A visit to the theater is a must in Hanoi, where live musicians accompany performances of folk legends using wooden puppets dancing on the water's surface. The performances are visually captivating, with the narration in Vietnamese, but the experience is universal and doesn’t require understanding the dialogue. Tickets cost 60,000 and 100,000 dong, with several shows held throughout the day. If you miss the first 15 minutes, you can sneak in with the incoming crowd for the next performance. Camera passes cost an extra 15,000 dong, but whether you buy one or not is based on the honor system.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AftYN3-dbtg 

Hoa Lo Prison: A Missed Historical Landmark

    Unfortunately, we didn’t have the time to visit Hoa Lo Prison (also known as the Hanoi Hilton), located at 1 Hoa Lo, Hoan Kiem. This historical site was built by the French at the turn of the 20th century, designed in a classical French prison style. It was here that the French imprisoned and executed many of the Vietnamese revolutionaries. The prison holds significant historical value, but we had to skip it this time due to time constraints.

Money Changers: Where to Get the Best Rates

    Money changers can be found in most guesthouses and banks, but the exchange rates they offer are usually quite poor. It’s advisable to avoid street vendors who change money in the black market, as their rates may not be favorable either. The best place to exchange money in Hanoi is on Ha Trung Road and Hang Bac. You’ll find gold and jewelry shops there that offer much better rates than banks or hotels. Just walk into a few shops, ask them to show their rates, and compare. I personally exchanged money at a jewelry shop, where the rate was consistently better.

ATMs and Cash

     ATMs are easily accessible throughout the city, and cash is king here. However, keep in mind that there is usually a transaction limit of 2,000,000 dong per withdrawal, so it’s a good idea to plan accordingly if you need more cash.

Markets: Souvenirs Galore in the Old Quarter

    The Old Quarter is filled with souvenir shops, making it a perfect place to pick up mementos from your trip. The area is always bustling, and there’s no shortage of items to browse and buy. Whether you're looking for traditional Vietnamese crafts or more modern souvenirs, you'll find something to take home.

Food: A Journey for the Senses

     Eating is one of the most important parts of my travels, and I truly believe that a country’s cuisine is deeply tied to its history, geography, and culture. I’m known to walk miles just to try an interesting dish (though this has sometimes caused problems with my co-travelers—my famous Vizag food trip, for example!). Food tells a story of a place in a way nothing else can, and in Hanoi, the food scene is no exception.

     The most famous dish, of course, is Pho, a noodle soup that comes in two varieties: Pho Ga (chicken noodle soup) and Pho Bo (beef noodle soup). The broth, the freshness of the herbs, and the perfect balance of flavors make Pho a must-try in Hanoi.

     Hanoi’s street food culture is vibrant, with hundreds of small kiosks lining the sidewalks. These street stalls are typically equipped with plastic tables and chairs on the pavement, offering an authentic and lively experience. A bowl of noodle soup can cost as little as 20,000 dong, but be cautious—some vendors may "forget" to give you your change. I recommend learning a few basic Vietnamese phrases to help with communication, as many of the vendors do not speak much English. The street food is a great way to immerse yourself in the local culture, though be aware that food quality, freshness, and hygiene can vary.

 

Exotic Treats in Hanoi

Next to Beijing, Hanoi might just be the second best destination for exotic foods. One particularly unique experience is in the suburb of Le Mat, also known as the Snake Village. This area boasts numerous restaurants specializing in cobra dishes. Live cobras are kept on-site, much like lobsters are kept in Western seafood restaurants. If you order cobra blood wine from the menu, the waiter will kill a live cobra, drain its blood into a shot glass filled with rice wine, and top it off with the still-beating heart of the snake for you to gulp down! Not for the faint-hearted (excuse the pun). Le Mat is a short 10-minute drive across the river from downtown Hanoi, accessible by bus numbers 10, 15, or 17. After getting off at the large "mega-mall" just beyond Gia Lam Station, walk 500 meters down the road. The cost of a cobra meal ranges from 400,000 to 1,000,000 dong (USD $50), but it is divided into multiple dishes, enough for 3-4 people to share.

Another local delicacy is dog meat (thịt chó), popular especially in winter. Many restaurants in the Tay Ho district offer this dish.

For a truly unique experience, you might want to try ca cuong, an extract from the giant water bug (belostomatid). A few drops are added to noodles for an unforgettable aroma. I didn’t get the chance to try these with Mohua, though!

Also, you’ll find boiled duck fetus eggs (similar to the Filipino balut) sold by peddlers throughout the city for around 5,000 dong. The vendor cracks the egg in front of you, peels off the shell, and serves the contents in a small plastic bowl. The egg is then garnished with julienned ginger, basil leaves, and chili sauce for an added kick.

---

Safety and Scams in Hanoi

Hanoi can be a dangerous city, both by Asian and Western standards. Pickpockets operate in groups, and scams are frequent. Thieves on motorbikes snatch bags from café tables, while fake mechanics throw nails on the road to cause flat tires. Even the police, sadly, are known to steal from both locals and tourists and demand bribes for the return of stolen items. A dual pricing system exists, with tourists often paying many times more than locals. This is especially true in restaurants where the price may increase if you start eating before agreeing to the price.

Always keep an eye on your belongings, particularly in crowded places like the Dong Xuan night market. Female pickpockets are also a common concern, and it’s advisable not to let them surround you. Be wary of hawkers who charge vastly inflated prices based on your appearance. Vendors often target foreigners, especially those with expensive-looking items, and may charge up to three times more than the standard rate.

Luckily, we didn’t encounter any major issues, but I did find Vietnam to be quite dishonest, comparable to Bali—if not worse.

---

Traffic and Pedestrian Safety

The streets of Hanoi are dominated by motorbikes, which often seem to be in a mad dash for something just out of reach. In Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), for example, there are about 6 million motorbikes for a population of 9 million. With the cost of a motorbike around 1,000 USD, compared to a car that costs at least 50,000 USD, it’s no surprise that few people can afford cars.

This overwhelming number of motorbikes makes pedestrian traffic quite challenging, especially in the narrow streets around the Old Quarter. When crossing the street, always look left, right, back, and front. Take each step slowly and steadily, allowing the motorbikes to pass. It may seem chaotic, but with patience and attention, you’ll be fine. Be aware that the streets are not ideal for the faint-hearted, or for anyone with hypertension or heart issues.

Interestingly, even for us as Indians/Kolkatans, crossing the roads in Hanoi proved to be a challenge! In fact, I would say that Mohua only truly learnt the art of crossing the road after coming to Hanoi!

---

Telephone and Internet

Telephone: Hanoi’s area code is 4, with a recently added '3' in front of all local numbers. For example, a local number 1234567 would now be dialed as 3 1234567 from within the city, or 04 3 1234567 for inter-provincial calls. From abroad, the number would be dialed as +84 4 3 1234567.

We bought a SIM card at the airport for 5 USD, which cost us about 1000 VND per minute. While it's better to avoid purchasing a SIM card at the airport, we had no choice at the time.

Internet: 3G Internet is widely available and affordable in Hanoi, with SIM cards priced between 45,000 and 55,000 dong. However, be cautious when purchasing a SIM card at the Vinaphone counter at Hanoi Airport. The staff may mislead you into buying an overpriced, incorrectly set-up SIM card. We were told that the unlimited Internet plan costs 500,000 dong, but the lady at the counter pocketed the money without setting up the card properly.

Internet cafes are scattered around the city, especially in the Old Quarter. Rates can be as low as 3,000 dong per hour. Many of the cafes cater to teens playing online games, but there are also some that offer Skype-capable computers for international calls. The wifi cafes around Hoan Kiem Lake are particularly popular.

---

Halong Bay Tour

I booked a 2-night, 3-day Halong Bay tour from Sinh Café on March 28, 2013. My friend U. May had recommended this itinerary for a more complete experience of the area, and I’m looking forward to it.

29/03/13

Cruise to Sapa and Ha Long Bay Adventure

If you're the adventurous type, or simply feeling temporarily tired of the city atmosphere, a cruise to the northern countryside in Vietnam is a great option. A round trip will take you through charming villages, lush hills, and valleys with stunning natural beauty. The main roads are generally in good condition. The Sapa mountain region, home to ethnic minorities and surrounded by breathtaking mountain scenery, is a trekker's paradise with paths connecting various tiny mountain villages. This area is the second most popular trip after Ha Long Bay and is particularly popular with tourists. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to visit Sapa. Interestingly, Vietnam bears a resemblance to West Bengal in some ways. If you think of Hanoi as being near Siliguri, Sapa would be similar to Kalimpong.

---

Ha Long Bay Cruise

Our journey began with a pick-up from the hotel at around 8 a.m. We were then driven to the Halong City pier, where we saw many people waiting to board their boats. However, by the time our turn came, the boat we were supposed to board was already full. We had to wait for the next one, but luckily, our boat was much emptier. Passengers on the boat were part of different tours—some were there for just one day, others for one night, and some for two. Hundreds of cruise boats depart daily, and many of them look very similar.

After boarding the boat around 12 p.m., we were served lunch. Interestingly, a group of Ukrainian tourists chose not to have the provided meal and instead brought their own food—cup noodles. It's also a good idea to make a photocopy of your receipt, as the guide will collect the original. Be mindful that drinks, including water, are not included in the price and can be quite expensive on the boat, so it’s better to opt for a full package that covers meals and drinks.

Ha Long Bay, known for its spectacular ocean karst topography, is undoubtedly the most popular side-trip from Hanoi. After lunch, we disembarked to explore a nearby cave, where we saw stalactites and stalagmites formed from limestone. The cave is well-lit, and the view from the top is stunning. However, Mohua chose not to join me on the trek to the shore, as the distance between the boat and the land was too far for her.

---

Kayaking Adventure and Cat Ba Island

Next, we went for kayaking, which was part of our package. Having never kayaked before (and not knowing how to swim), I thought, "Why not give it a try?" My kayaking partner turned out to be a French guy, and interestingly, no one else from our boat opted for kayaking.

Be cautious when kayaking—they might provide you with half-broken paddles, and if they break completely, you'll be charged for them. At first, I found it difficult to get the hang of it, as they only handed us a life jacket and a paddle, nothing else! Thankfully, my French companion had prior kayaking experience, or we would’ve been in serious trouble. I even bumped into another boat at one point! After about 15 minutes of struggling, we returned to our boat.

Afterward, we headed to the boat's roof to relax. The view from the top was absolutely breathtaking. We lounged in beach chair-like seats, enjoying the stunning scenery. After some time, we made our way to Cat Ba Island. We arrived at the Cat Ba Island pier around 5:30 p.m., and some of the other passengers decided to stay on the boat. A van came to pick us up, and we were taken to a hotel in Cat Ba Town.

That evening, we had dinner at the hotel itself. Cat Ba is a small, charming island, and we were excited to explore it further the next day.

30/3/13

Trekking on Cat Ba Island

The next day, we left for the pier to pick up some more tourists. After gathering everyone, we set off for a trek. Our destination was the top of a hillock. As usual, Mohua decided not to join me at the top. It was drizzling lightly, which added to the atmosphere of the hike.

The view from the top was absolutely breathtaking—mist enveloped the surroundings, creating a mystical and serene landscape. As we neared the summit, the last part of the trek involved climbing up a watchtower, which was a bit nerve-wracking. The rain had made the surface slippery, making the climb feel a bit more precarious. But the payoff was worth it—the view from the top was mesmerizing.

Exploring Cat Ba Island and Overnight on the Boat

After returning to the hotel, we had lunch there. Later, we took a leisurely stroll around the island. The hotel was conveniently located very close to the beach, so we headed to a private beach attached to another hotel. The views from the beach were absolutely stunning, and we enjoyed a peaceful walk around the town.

By around 4 pm, we returned to the hotel to catch the van for the journey back to the pier. It was about a 10 km ride from the hotel. Tonight, we would be staying on the boat. The experience of being in the air-conditioned cabin on the boat was truly unforgettable.

We had dinner onboard, and it was interesting to note that we were the only Indian/Asian guests on the boat. We had a chat with some Dutch brothers and sisters who had visited India and were sharing their experiences. They mentioned they were headed to Australia next, where they'd be working on a farm picking fruits before continuing their travels to Brazil for the World Cup. They were having a great time, enjoying beers late into the night. Eventually, we retired to our cabin.

31/3/2013

A Memorable Morning and Return to Halong City

We woke up the next morning surrounded by the breathtaking limestone mountains – a perfect backdrop for Mohua’s birthday. It was time to head back to Halong City, so we boarded another boat. There were only five people on board, including us, making it feel like a private cruise. Since it was the off-season in Vietnam, the boat moved at a leisurely pace, allowing us to fully absorb the spectacular scenery of the bay. Unlike Phuket, where we’ve seen many beautiful sights, there are around 300 limestone mountains in this area. It’s truly one of a kind. The weather was a bit chilly, adding to the unique charm of this experience.

  

Return to Hanoi and the Open Bus Experience

After reaching Halong City around 12:30 pm, we had lunch and still had some time before our bus was scheduled to leave for Hanoi. We decided to buy a few souvenirs to take home.

By the time we arrived in Hanoi, it was almost 5:30 pm, and our “open bus” was ready to depart soon. We grabbed some baguettes, milkmaid, and sausages for the journey.

We were picked up in front of our travel agent’s office and dropped off at the open bus office. This bus had no seating arrangements – passengers could only lie down. It was unlike any bus I had ever seen before!

01/4/2013

Hue

We reached Hue the next day. The bus stop was not very far from the hotel, so we walked for 10 minutes to reach our accommodation. On the way, we spoke to some travel agents about the city tour, only to find that the bus for the day tour had already left. Eventually, we decided to do the city tour by motorbike taxi. The drivers dropped us off at the hotel and waited for us for a while. In the meantime, we took a quick shower and left for the city tour. This was my first motorbike taxi ride in my life! However, it was definitely more interesting than a bus tour. Our hotel was in a very good location, very close to the river.

Hue (Huế) is in the central region of Vietnam and was the former imperial capital. The city is closely tied to the Nguyễn Dynasty, which ruled from 1802 to 1945, when Emperor Bao Dai abdicated in favor of Ho Chi Minh's revolutionary government. The city went through tough times during the Vietnam War when it was captured by the Viet Cong and held for 24 days. During this period, the VC killed around 3,000 people suspected of sympathizing with the South.

The main landmark is the Perfume River (Hương Giang), with the old city and the Citadel on the northern side, and the newer city, including most hotels and restaurants, on the southern side. Much of the riverside has been beautifully transformed into a pleasant boulevard and park. The tombs are located further south, on the outskirts of Hue. It is a very nice and charming city.

Climate

Hue’s weather is infamously unpredictable: the Truong Son Mountains to the south cause it to be mostly misty or rainy. Things get even wetter than usual during the winter rainy season, especially from February to the end of March. To be safe, bring an umbrella any time of year. In winter, don’t forget a sweater and jacket as it can get rather chilly, with temperatures sometimes falling as low as 8°C at night.

During the summer months, it’s typically dry, with temperatures soaring into the high 30s. Fortunately, we didn’t experience rain during our stay.

Get in by train

A second-class sleeper from Hanoi to Hue on the SE1 (leaving Hanoi at 19:00) cost 710,000 dong in October 2012 (for a hard-sleeper, 6-person cabin, middle bunk; the bottom bunk is a little more expensive, while the top bunk is the cheapest). It’s an excellent way to see the country. It's worth buying your tickets at the train station, as it can save you some effort and money. Hotels often overcharge by doubling the prices, citing reasons like high season or the need to buy tickets on the black market. To/From Laos From Vientiane, you can book a sleeping or sitting bus for 180,000 Kip (1 USD = 8,000 Kip approx.). The sleeping bus is the same price as the sitting bus, and it takes about 15 hours to get to Hue, so the sleeping bus is the better choice. Getting Around By Taxi Like in other Vietnamese cities, Hue is filled with cyclos and motorbikes, along with a few meter taxis. Taxi drivers are usually honest, but make sure they turn the meter on: trips start at 15,000 dong for the first 2 km and increase by 11,500 dong/km. By Bike You can hire a motorbike for 100,000 dong locally. Fuel costs 25,000 dong per liter. Note that maps are a foreign concept here—nobody understands them! Make sure your motorbike comes with a helmet, as you can be fined otherwise. Cyclo A cyclo is the local version of a rickshaw. Many cyclo drivers also act as pimps and may offer local women (starting at $10/hr). I’ve been approached by them several times! On Foot Be sure to stop by 24 Tran Cao Van St to pick up your free map (and enjoy some delicious banana pancakes).

See

Imperial Citadel (Đại Nội)

The former imperial seat of government and Hue's prime attraction, the Imperial Citadel is a sprawling complex of temples, pavilions, moats, walls, gates, shops, museums, and galleries, featuring art and costumes from various periods of Vietnamese history. Thanks to its size, it is also delightfully peaceful— a rare commodity in Vietnam.

The citadel was severely damaged during the fighting between the French and the Viet Minh in 1947, and again in 1968 during the Tet Offensive, when it was shelled by the Viet Cong and then bombed by the Americans. As a result, some areas are now just empty fields, bits of walls, and explanatory plaques. However, other buildings remain intact, and a few are in sparkling condition. Restoration has been ongoing for 20 years, but there is still quite a long way to go. Entry costs 80,000 dong (for foreigners; less for locals) and is open from 06:30 to 17:00. Inside, you can pay $1.50 (30,000 dong) to dress up in the King or Queen's clothing and sit on the throne for a fun photo opportunity.

---

Tombs of the Emperors

The other great attractions in Hue are the Tombs of the Emperors, located along the Perfume River south of the city. They are accessible by taxi or bike from the city, but the best way to see them is to hire a riverboat for a cruise. Plan to make a full day of it.

The tombs themselves are worth the cost and effort. Most date from the late 19th or early 20th centuries, when the Emperors had been reduced to figureheads under French colonial rule, with little else to do but build elaborate tombs for themselves. The finest examples are the Tomb of Tu Duc, the Tomb of Minh Mang, and the Tomb of Khai Dinh—all excellent examples of Vietnamese Buddhist aesthetics and architecture.

---

Tomb of Tu Duc (7 km)

Constructed from 1864 to 1867, the complex served as a second Imperial City where the Emperor went for "working vacations." Tu Duc’s contemplative nature and poetic spirit are reflected in the landscape and arrangement of the 50 buildings that once stood here. A vast, sprawling complex set around a lake, with wooden pavilions, tombs, and temples dedicated to wives and favored courtesans (Tu Duc had 104 to choose from). The courtesans' quarters are in ruins, with only outlines and crumbling walls left amid waves of overgrown grass and silence. But other areas are stunningly well-preserved. The Emperor's tomb itself, tucked away in the back, is surprisingly modest—the final courtyard is nearly empty, with just a stone coffin in the middle. (The tombs of Empress Le Thien Anh and Emperor Kien Phuc, who briefly ruled in 1884, are also located here).

Since we took the motorbike tour, lunch was not included. Afterward, we went to see the Thien Mu Pagoda (4 km)—perched on a bluff over the river and housing some very fine gold and silver Buddha images. The Thien Mu Pagoda overlooks the Perfume River and is the official symbol of the city of Hue. Thien Mu means "elderly celestial woman" and refers to an old legend about the founding of the pagoda.

Hue Day Tour - City Tour The city tour includes the Citadel, three tombs (Tu Duc, Khai Dinh, and Minh Mang), a garden house, and a Perfume River cruise with a stop at Thien Mu Pagoda. From there, it’s a short ride to the Tourist Boat docks, where the tour concludes. This is a very good value for money package at USD 10 (from Jade Hotel). For the same itinerary, some tours charge up to USD 13, possibly offering better food options. Please note that entrance costs are not included. Money will be collected on the bus: 80,000 VND for the Citadel and tombs, and 20,000 VND for the garden house. Thien Mu Pagoda is free to visit. The motorbike taxi doesn’t offer as many attractions.

A traditional industry of Hue is embroidery, and framed embroidery can be purchased in many stores in the backpacker area of Hue.

Eat Hue is famed for its Imperial cuisine, originally prepared for the emperor and his retinue. Although the emphasis is more on presentation than taste, an imperial banquet is well worth trying. The most famous local dish is bún bò Huế, a noodle soup served with slices of beef and lashings of chili oil. Another tasty local treat is sesame candy (mè xửng), which is peanut-flavored, chewy, and quite tasty if fresh, and goes for under 10,000 dong per box. Sleep There are plenty of cheap traveler hotels and mid-market hotels in Hue, as well as a couple of expensive giants. The largest cluster is around the short lane of Pham Ngu Lao. It's not quite as big (or backpacker-oriented) as its counterpart in Ho Chi Minh City. We stayed on Pham Ngu Lao. Hue is a safe city, and there isn’t much to worry about. However, at night, all cyclo-drivers, especially in the Pham Ngu Lao area, should be avoided. During the day, a ride should be fine, but at night, avoid them at all costs. I was approached by a cyclo driver asking if I wanted a lady-boy. After our day tour was over, Mohua went to the hotel to rest. I went to see the night market beside the river and bought some pictures drawn by a local artist. Normally, I buy local art from the places I visit. While buying, a cyclo driver approached me asking if I wanted some girls! After coming back to the hotel, we went to eat at a very nice restaurant. They were offering a special deal of VND 79,000 for two. Get Out There are also frequent bus services to Savannakhet and Vientiane in Laos. Buses leave at 06:00 and 18:00. There are 3 scheduled direct buses to Vientiane: 6:00 am, 9:30 am, and 6:00 pm. 02/4/2013 We went to the travel agency office in Hue to catch the 8 am bus to Hoi An. Hoi An We reached Hoi An at around 12 pm. Since the car was supposed to pick us up from the hotel, we called to inform them of our arrival. However, they told us to take a taxi to the hotel, and they would cover the cost. We took the taxi and arrived at our hotel, which has a nice swimming pool near the reception.

After quickly taking a shower, we had lunch at a restaurant (Café 43) opposite our hotel. It is highly rated on Tripadvisor, and the food was good. We then walked to the Old Quarter, which is just 5-6 minutes from our hotel. Hoi An is the most beautiful city in Vietnam, and its Old Town is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

 Understand

Hoi An, once known as Faifo, has more than 2,000 years of history. It was the principal port of the Hindu Champa or Cham Kingdom, which controlled the strategic spice trade with Indonesia from the 7th to the 10th century and was a major international port in the 16th and 17th centuries. The foreign influences from this period are still evident today.

The culture and heritage of Hoi An primarily come from the Champa or Cham people, whose kingdom originally stretched from Hue in the south to the area south of Nha Trang. The Cham people are believed to have originated from Java, though another theory suggests they came from Kalinga, Amaravati, and Champa, near present-day Darbhanga, according to Mr. Geetesh Sharma. The original Cham political capital was Tra Kieu, the commercial capital was Hoi An, and the spiritual capital was My Son. The Cham people were Hindu, but by the 10th century, the influence of Arab traders in Hoi An led to some converting to Islam. Today, these Cham Muslims are a minority in Vietnam.

The second major influence on Hoi An’s culture came from the Chinese, initially from traders but especially from the Ming Dynasty armies who, after settling in Hoi An for several years, moved further south and established Saigon as a major trading port. The third major cultural influence came from the Vietnamese, which is more recent and occurred after the Cham lost control of the area.

Although serious shipping business has long since moved to Da Nang, the heart of the city remains the Old Town of Hoi An, full of winding lanes and Chinese-style shop houses. The area is particularly atmospheric in the evening as the sun sets. While most shops now cater to tourists, the area has largely been preserved as it was for several centuries, which is unusual in Vietnam.

Since Hoi An was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999, there has been a significant increase in mass tourism. As a result, many houses have been sold by the local community to speculators and shop owners for commercial purposes. Consequently, the community and its traditional culture have been displaced, replaced by shops, restaurants, art galleries, and a large number of tailoring and shoe shops catering to Western tourists.

By boat

Hoi An has a river system that stretches for hundreds of kilometers. This was the ancient transport network of the Cham Kingdom, used to move goods between the highlands, through Hoi An, and onward to China. Speedboats and traditional ghe nang sailing boats were commonly used on both the river and the sea.

Get around

The center of Hoi An is very small and pedestrianized, so you'll be walking around most of the time. Evenings are especially busy, with motorbikes competing with pedestrians for even the smallest space on the street! The city's government does not allow motorbikes to enter the Old Town on the 14th and 15th of each lunar month. On those evenings, a lot of activities, including traditional games, are held throughout the town.

Taxis can be found in the middle of Le Loi Street, across the river on An Hoi, or can be called by phone. A local 15-minute taxi fare is around 60,000 VND. Motorbike taxis, of course, are always an option, especially if you're traveling alone. You can also charter boats for about US$1 per hour.

The cost of motorbike rentals in Hoi An in 2013 ranged from US$4 to US$5 per day (80,000-100,000 VND). Note: Foreign international driving licenses are NOT valid in Vietnam. In case of an accident, a foreigner driving a motorcycle without a valid license will be at fault and must pay! Also, personal insurance may not cover someone riding a motorcycle with a driver who does not have a valid license.

See

Old Town

Entry to all historical sites in Hoi An is via a coupon/ticket system, where 90,000 VND (US$5) gets you a ticket that can be used to enter 5 attractions: one museum, one old house, one assembly hall, the handicraft workshop (and traditional music show) or the traditional theater, and either the Japanese Covered Bridge or the Quan Cong Temple. Tickets are sold at various entry points into the Old Town. I was impressed by the fact that this is a wonderful way to show the old city — where you can see the old city and residents in their houses, while the money paid to them (indirectly through the coupon) helps them maintain their house. I often wonder why this system can’t be done in the old part of my city along Rabindra Sarani/Chitpore, where there are so many heritage buildings. One of my French friends also told me that Hanoi reminds her of Kolkata — but one is a beauty, and the other is a beast. When you enter an old house, they will keep a portion of the ticket. Some of the houses, of course, do not take the coupon — so we ended up seeing far more than the 5 houses we were entitled to visit.

The city requests that visitors dress "decently" while visiting sites in the Old Town: men should wear a shirt, and women should avoid wearing a bikini top, sleeveless blouse, or skirt above the knees. Respect the local culture, and remember that you are not on the beach. The important landmarks of the Old Town in Hoi An are:

• Japanese Covered Bridge: Located on the west end of Tran Phu Street. Constructed in the early 1600s by the Japanese community, it was built roughly 40 years before they left the city under the strict sakoku policy enforced by the Tokugawa Shogunate and was renovated in 1986. Today, it's the symbol of Hoi An. To enter, you have to give one coupon, but it’s possible to cross back and forth several times without meeting a ticket checker.

• Quan Cong Temple: Located at 24 Tran Phu Street.

The ticket also allows admission to one of the 4 museums in the Old Town:

• Museum of Folk Culture: Some may be put off by the bizarre-looking plaster sculptures of Vietnamese peasants, but this museum documents the dress and culture of rural Vietnam.
• Museum of Trade Ceramics: Located on Tran Phu Street. The dusty, unlabeled displays of broken pottery are forgettable, but the house itself is nice enough, providing a better opportunity to explore the layout of an old Hoi An home.
• Hoi An Museum of History and Culture: Located on Nguyen Hue Street. This museum contains old black and white photos of Hoi An taken in the early 20th century. It also houses an old cannon, two-thousand-year-old pots from the Sa Huynh period, and a case full of 9th-century bricks and tiles from the Champa period.
• Museum of Say Huynh Culture: The museum's main collection consists of pottery and urns from the 1st and 2nd centuries. Upstairs is another museum, the Museum of the Revolution, which houses pictures of war heroes and a collection of weapons such as grenade launchers, machine guns, and AK-47s.

There are 3 old houses that exist in an awkward halfway state between museum showpiece and somewhat shabby residence for the family that lives there. Your ticket allows admission to one.

• Phung Hung House: Located on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street, just west of the Japanese Bridge. A traditional two-story wooden house, inhabited for over 100 years by eight generations; the current generation attempts to guide you around in hopes of a tip.
• Quan Thang House: Located on Nguyen Thai Hoc Street.
• Tan Ky House: Located on Nguyen Thai Hoc Street. A younger member of the family will provide a cup of tea and a "tour" that doesn't stray from the front room of the house, as you'd need to step over sleeping members of the older generation to go anywhere else. The design of the house shows how local architecture incorporated Japanese and Chinese influences. Japanese elements include the crab shell-shaped ceiling supported by three beams in the living room. Chinese poems written in mother-of-pearl are hanging from several columns that hold up the roof.

Numerous congregation halls, where Chinese expatriate residents socialized and held meetings, are dotted around the town. They are typically named after the home region of their members, such as Fujian and Canton. Your ticket allows admission to one. Some do not have ticket-takers, so it's up to your conscience if you want to try wandering into a second.

• Cantonese Assembly Hall: Located on Tran Phu Street. Built in 1885, it has a calm courtyard with ornate statuary. Take a peek at the half-hidden backyard and its kitschy pastel dragon statues.
• Hokien (Fujian) Meeting Hall: Located on Tran Phu Street. Built in 1757.
• Chinese All-Community Meeting Hall: Located on Nguyen Duy Hieu. Built in 1887, it's near the Fujian hall, also spanning the block.

Finally, you can choose one of the following for "Intangible Culture":

• Hoi An Handicraft Workshop: Located on Bach Dang Street. Folk music performances are offered at 10:15 and 15:15 every day except Monday.
• Traditional Theatre: Located on Nguyen Thai Hoc Street.
• Swan Boats: Check out the swan boats on the river. These are passenger boats shaped like giant swans whose eyes light up at night.

The Hoi An Orphanage is located right next to the Roman Catholic church. Do recognize that children should not be exploited as tourist attractions — this is not a zoo. If you want to visit and speak with the people who run the orphanage about their work or make a donation, please do.

03/4/2013

Yesterday, we booked a tour from a travel agent near our hotel to visit the Hindu Champa or Cham temples. An elderly lady there reminded me of a typical Bengali grandmother with Chittagong lineage!

From her, we learnt that they refer to India as 'Ando'! We were picked up by a bus in the morning to visit My Son, which is about an hour and a half away from Hoi An. The trip to My Son is inexpensive in town, ranging from 60,000 to 100,000 VND, depending on the mode of transport. We opted to go by bus and return by boat.

My Son is a set of ruins from the ancient Cham Empire on the central coast of Vietnam. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, designated in 1999. My Son was built by the Champas, who ruled central Vietnam from 200 AD to 1700 AD, until they were finally annexed by the Vietnamese in the 19th century.

Influenced by Hinduism, the Champas built temple complexes in central Vietnam. The best-known and most preserved temples, still in daily use by Buddhists, are the Po Nagar Cham Towers in Nha Trang. By the 10th century, some Cham people had become Muslims (there are Cham Muslim communities in Cambodia). The Champa King resided in the political capital of Tra Kieu (the commercial capital was the port of Hoi An). The temples of My Son were the most important religious sites of the Champa Kingdom between the 4th and 13th centuries. The temples were constructed using bricks, without the aid of mortar, and adorned with sculptures of gods, priests, animals, and scenes of mythical battles and devotion. These temples served as places of worship for Lord Vishnu.

After the fall of the Champa Kingdom, the jungle began to reclaim the temples. By the 1960s, the temples had already fallen into disrepair when the Viet Cong used My Son as a base. The Vietnamese, not being Cham, had little respect for the Cham culture and heritage after defeating them. An Act of Congress was passed, prohibiting the US from bombing My Son, which effectively allowed the Vietnamese to use the site as a base.

Today, there is no benefit for the local communities in My Son from tourism to this UNESCO site, even though community benefit is required under UNESCO World Heritage Site status. In general, UNESCO WHS sites in Southeast Asia are poorly managed compared to those in developed countries. This highlights a deeper issue within both the United Nations and the host countries. Western tourists visiting Southeast Asia should expect UNESCO WHS sites in the region to be no more than a sales and marketing pitch for mass tourism — leading to more destruction than preservation. For instance, at My Son, there are no Hindu Cham monks or priests, no respect for the Hindu religion or temples, no connection to the local communities, no benefits from tourism for the locals, artifacts are being stolen, and the buffer zone is being destroyed. Some travel guides even compare My Son to Angkor Wat, Bagan, and Borobudur. Historically, they have a point: in their time, these complexes were leading spiritual centers, and they have all fallen into atmospheric ruin. However, the ruins at My Son are not as impressive as those at the aforementioned sites for various reasons. Still, the stunning jungle scenery may be worth the trip, and anyone with an interest in Vietnamese history that doesn't focus on America or France will find it fascinating.

The layout of the Champa Kingdom, with its temples (My Son), political capital (Tra Kieu), commercial center (Hoi An), and the offshore Cham Islands, was based on the principles of feng shui.

Get in

It’s a one-hour drive by motorbike from Hoi An, assuming you find your way the first time! The park is open from 8 AM to 5 PM, but the later afternoon hours are calmer and cooler. Remember to bring water.

One way to visit My Son is to join an organized tour from Hoi An, which is about an hour away. Any hotel or travel agent will be eager to arrange one for you. The cost can be surprisingly low — US$5 will get you there and back on a bus, or you can opt for a tour that includes a bus, a boat ride, lunch, and a couple of extra stops for US$6. However, neither option includes the admission fee to My Son, which is now 100,000 VND, up from 60,000 VND. Unfortunately, there is still no benefit to local communities from tourism here.

You can drive in and park closer to the ruins inside the park for 30,000 VND, which goes directly to the restaurant. The best times to visit My Son are early in the morning or late afternoon when there are fewer tourists.

For a sunrise tour, expect to leave Hoi An around 5 AM. Most other tours depart around 8 AM. A private driver and car will cost about US$70 from Danang (excluding My Son’s admission fee), with the return trip included.

Given the relatively small scale of the ruins — and how easily they can be overwhelmed by crowds — you’re much better off doing the trip on your own. A round-trip motorbike taxi from the center of Hoi An should cost about US$10, while a four-seater car would be around US$35. The rural scenery on the way to My Son is among the most beautiful in the country.

If you'd like to drive yourself, you’ll see more foreigners on motorbikes here than anywhere else in Vietnam. Since it’s only a 43 km drive, you’ll need to buy a maximum of 2 liters of petrol, which costs about 42,000 VND.

Get around

All vehicles can go as close as 100 meters from the temples.

In the past, drivers would leave you near the ticket office, which is a few kilometers away from the ruins. After crossing a bridge and walking through some beautiful scenery for a few minutes, you'll arrive at a small depot, where jeeps and vans wait to shuttle visitors the rest of the way. When you're done touring the ruins, jeeps or vans will be waiting in the same place to take you back.

You can explore the ruins on foot, with nothing more challenging than a slight hill to climb. Maps of the area tend to give the impression that the site is larger than it actually is. There are plenty of comfortable, rustic-looking benches along the way.

A little-known feature is the lake at the bottom of My Son, which is perfect for quiet kayaking, or the surrounding hills, which are great for hiking.

See & Do

Near the ticket office, there is a Champa museum that describes many of the artifacts and the history of the site. However, the curators have made the puzzling (and frustrating) decision to remove virtually all of the better-preserved sculptures from the ruins and display them here, or at the small museum in Group A, instead of keeping them in the context of the temples where they originally belonged. Therefore, it's recommended to visit the museum briefly before visiting the temples themselves — it closes half an hour before the other sites, so you might not be able to visit it on the way out. Some pieces of sculpture have visibly been stolen from My Son!

The temples are in varying states of repair, with restoration still underway on some. They are organized into nine "groups," labeled A-G. Effectively, there are three major sites: A, B-C-D, and E-F. The G, H, and L ruins are separate and a little trickier to find. If you can't locate them, don't spend all day searching; they are much smaller than the others. All of the sites are connected by reasonably well-labeled walking tracks.

The entire layout of the temples is based on the sun and the rays of the sun, and this is clearly visible in the early morning. The early morning sunlight shines behind the head of Lord Vishnu, from where it is scattered throughout the area.

The layout features Sanskrit scriptures first, followed by the Lingam, over which water flows to wash hands and feet before entering the temples barefoot. Traditional dance performances are held at 9:45 AM for the benefit of the tour groups (except on Mondays). The stage is right before you reach the first group of ruins, across from the souvenir shop. These are NOT traditional dances, and the entire show is not within the context of My Son as a UNESCO sanctuary. Do holy Hindu temples in India and other countries feature dancing?

Sleep

There’s no accommodation available in My Son. What we saw there were primarily ruins and some broken sculptures, but it was still interesting. From the guide, we learnt that some of the stolen idols are in the Louvre Museum in Paris. The Champa or Cham civilization was at its zenith around 1000 AD. We also saw craters in the ruins — the Americans didn’t spare the temples of the Champa. In fact, our guide’s father was one of the soldiers who took refuge in the Champa ruins during the war. It was a place where many Vietnamese took shelter during the conflict. We could only imagine what it looked like 1000 years ago. Most of the notable idols are now housed in the Da Nang Cham Museum. We were the only Asians on this tour. Despite the ruins, I found the site very interesting. There are different theories about the origins of the civilization.

After the tour, we boarded the bus and were dropped off at the boat station. From there, we returned to Hoi An by boat. 

Along the way, we stopped at a boat-making village, a wood-carving village and more. 

We were served a simple lunch on the boat. The ancient Champa way of travel was through the river system. The rivers of Hoi An stretch for hundreds of kilometers and offer an interesting and adventurous alternative to traveling by road. 

After returning to Hoi An, we visited the remaining old houses in the city that we hadn't seen yesterday. After strolling through the old town, we bought the famous lanterns of Hoi An. We then returned to our hotel and had dinner at Café 43.

04/4/2013

By bus to Da Nang from Hoi An

There is a public bus (#1) from Hoi An bus station to  Da Nang bus station, which costs 18,000 dong. However, we heard that they sometimes try to charge foreigners 40,000 dong. We walked to the bus station, which is about 500 meters from our hotel. Exactly what we had heard happened — they returned only 40,000 dong to us instead of 64,000 dong. We had asked a local about the fare before boarding the bus. When we pointed out that they were overcharging us and requested the correct balance, the lady conductor shamelessly returned the extra money. Interestingly, most of the conductors in Thailand and Vietnam are women. Almost all the buses are air-conditioned. Da Nang is about 1 hour away from Hoi An. Fortunately, we got off right in front of the Da Nang Cham Museum.

 See

Cham Museum: Founded in 1915, it houses a collection of stone sculptures from the Hindu-practicing Cham civilization, which occupied much of central Vietnam from the first millennium AD through the 14th century. Entrance is 30,000 VND, and the museum can be toured in about an hour. The sculptures are nearly all made of sandstone, and some have weathered badly over the centuries, but you can still appreciate the delightful artistic quality of the figures, which include Shiva, garudas, nagas, lions, monkeys, and elephants. The collection also includes striking examples of the ancient Hindu fertility icons — lingam altars decorated around the sides with rows of breasts.

 

 The sculptures were mostly removed from the facades or interiors of Cham ruins (which would have been looted otherwise). The ruins themselves, such as nearby My Son, now tend to be crumbling piles of bricks and somewhat disappointing, giving little sense of the spectacular artwork produced by the Cham civilization. Any visit to My Son should be paired with the Cham Museum. The collection is also interesting to compare with Balinese sculpture and the early, Hindu phase of Angkor Wat in Cambodia.

We informed the security guard that we were going to meet Mr. Van Vo Thang, the Director of the museum.

We had called Mr. Thang before our trip to Vietnam. By the time we reached there, it was already 11 p.m. In Vietnam, many government offices open at 7 a.m., so by their standards, it was quite late. We were escorted to Mr. Thang's office, where we handed over the gifts from Mr. Geetesh Sharma. In return, Mr. Thang gave us a memento for Mr. Sharma and one for ourselves. Since he was leaving shortly, we left his office to explore the museum.

It was quite amazing to see the museum in this condition. It’s hard to believe that you’re not in India. We saw sculptures of Vishnu, Shiva, Nandi, Saraswati, Brahma, Lakshmi, and Yaksha all around us. The museum is very well maintained and the exhibits are displayed beautifully, much better than what we often see in India. The museum also sold replicas of the idols from My Son. However, even inside the museum, there is no fixed price; you have to haggle! In fact, most of the sculptures from My Son are now housed in the Da Nang Museum, as otherwise, they would have been stolen.

Da Nang is Vietnam's third-largest city, located on the Eastern Sea coast, midway between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, and is the largest city in Central Vietnam. The city itself has neither the charm of Hanoi nor the hustle and bustle of Ho Chi Minh City, but it has its share of sights and is close to the attractions of Hoi An and the imperial capital of Hue. This makes it a popular vacation spot for those looking to explore central Vietnam's attractions or relax on the city's beaches.

Understand

The regions surrounding Da Nang, including My Son and Quang Nam, were founded by the Cham people, who practiced Hinduism. This area served as the capital city and center of the Hindu Champa Dynasty. However, the Vietnamese invasion in the 17th century significantly halted the development of the Cham civilization. During the Vietnam War, many of the vast monuments and buildings were bombed, leading to the destruction of these cultural treasures.

On our way back to Hoi An, we saw the Marble Mountains but didn’t stop to visit since we were running a bit late. The entrance fee is 15,000 VND. The Marble Mountains are located 9 km south of downtown, right across from many of the larger beachside resorts. The group of mountains includes Kim Son (Mountain of Metal), Moc Son (Mountain of Wood), Thuy Son (Mountain of Water), Hoa Son (Mountain of Fire), and Tho Son (Mountain of Earth). Several Buddhist temples are built into the caves and grottoes, making it a popular pilgrimage site.

The real fun, however, is at the Am Phu cave, where you can make the steep climb toward the light and enjoy a view from the top of the mountain, surrounded by sacred images. Be sure to bring comfortable shoes for walking or climbing. Open-tour buses do stop here, but they tend to rush you along, so any motor driver in Da Nang or Hoi An will be happy to take you and allow you to set your own pace. Guides are available, but be cautious of the aggressive statue sellers outside.

 

After walking around Da Nang, we took a bus to Hoi An. Mr. Sharma, who has visited Vietnam 17 times to date, told me that in 1984 the entire town was in ruins. Everything you see today has been developed in the last 28 years!

Coffee

Drinking coffee is an integral part of Vietnamese culture, so it's a great idea to spend some time enjoying coffee while you're there. Coffee in Vietnam, especially in the central region, is very strong and has a wonderful aroma. In Da Nang, people spend a lot of time drinking coffee and chatting with friends and family in various coffee shops. There are several types of coffee shops in Da Nang: luxurious, mid-range, and special-themed cafes. Vietnam is the second-largest coffee producer in the world, after Brazil.

Buy

Almost every building in the Old Town area of Hoi An that isn't a restaurant is a shop selling one of the following: clothes, shoes, souvenirs, bags, or jewelry. These shops are primarily geared toward tourists, not locals. Prices are often inflated compared to the rest of Vietnam and are usually quoted in dollars (which is often a red flag), so haggling is recommended. However, the wide variety of styles available and the opportunity to have clothes custom-made can make it worthwhile.

Custom made Suits

You’ll find tailoring shops all around the Old Town of Hoi An. You can choose the color and type of every material used and dictate the details of the style. Measurements are taken, and the specifications are either sent out for fabrication at a factory or workshop outside the city, or, more rarely, made in-house. The suit is usually ready by the next day. Most shops will continue altering it until you're completely satisfied.

However, it's important to note that the quality of tailoring and materials, especially for business suits, is NOT comparable to what you might expect from places like Singapore or Hong Kong. If you're looking for a more casual or everyday suit, Hoi An tailors will be more than adequate.

Quality comes with a price, even in Hoi An. If you opt for the cheapest shop or fabric, you will likely be disappointed. That being said, don’t hesitate to negotiate—it's part of the experience.

Bring enough time and don't settle for the 24-hour suit (unless you want to end up with something subpar): You’ll need at least a few days for proper fittings. Be sure to let the shop owner know that you have enough time to come in for multiple fittings.

Cloned clothes

Hoi An has a long tradition of copying and quickly making new garments for travelers. You can bring in clothes (or even a picture of clothes) that you want copied to any tailor shop, and they will try to replicate it. You can often choose the type of fabric and color for the copy. Bargaining for a better price is common, especially if you're ordering multiple copies. One of your British co-passengers had a dress made for an upcoming wedding she will attend, and she seems to be happy with the result.

     

     

Custom made shoes

Another thing you'll find in Hoi An are shoe shops. All the shoe shops in Hoi An will make custom shoes for you. The greatest concentration of shoe stores is along Hoang Dieu Street, where there are at least 8 stores in a row. You can ask them to make you a style that you see there, or one from a catalogue or picture. You can choose the material, color, and type of base. As with custom clothes, the fabrication is usually done a little outside of town, or at least in an area with lower rent costs. Look for shoe shops that have a sign saying: "No like = no pay."

Eat

Food in Hoi An is, even by high Vietnamese standards, cheap and tasty. In addition to the usual suspects, there are three dishes that Hoi An is particularly famous for:

• Cao lầu, a dish of rice noodles that are not quite as slippery as pho and have a texture closer to pasta. The secret is the water used to make it, and authentic cao lầu uses only water from a special well in the city. The noodles are topped with slices of roast pork, dough fritters, and, like much of Vietnam, plenty of fresh herbs and veggies.
• White rose, a type of shrimp dumpling made from translucent white dough bunched up to resemble a rose.

Wonton dumplings, essentially the same as the Chinese kind, served either in soup or deep-fried.

I tried all of these, and they were quite nice. If you're really adventurous, you can sit on small stools, eating a bowl of Cao Lau with wooden chopsticks, and sipping the ice-cold "White Coffee with Vinamilk." At almost every street corner, you can see locals sitting on stools, eating and chatting.

Walking along the river at night, you'll find many pubs. Beer costs around 30,000 dong. Some bars also serve food, such as fried prawn crackers, for around 15,000 dong a plate. Just walk into any pub and have a seat. A large 1.5L bottle of mineral water costs about 10,000 dong. We ate at one of the hawker stalls beside the river.

Prices in the very center of Hoi An are generally a little inflated due to the tourist trade. Don't pay more than 10,000 dong for a baguette, 10,000 dong for a beer (though most places charge 10,000-15,000 dong), or 20,000 dong for a bowl of noodles.

Our favorite restaurant was Cafe 43, located at 43 Tran Cao Van. This place offers typical traveler fare with Biere Lerue for 10,000 dong and bia hoi (fresh beer) for 3,000 dong. The food is tasty, with the Cao Lao noodles being the local specialty, and the portion size is generous. The "fresh spring rolls" (steamed) are around 40,000 dong but are huge. This place is becoming more and more popular.

Hoi An New Town

The atmosphere of the Old Town has been preserved intentionally: strict bylaws prohibit new construction within its narrow lanes. As a result, there's a building boom just outside the borders of the Old Town, most noticeably to the north of Le Hong Phong.

After coming back to Hoi An, we quickly freshened up at the hotel and left for the Old Quarters, where our open bus was waiting to take us to Nha Trang.

5/4/2013

Nha Trang

We reached Nha Trang early in the morning and took a taxi to our hotel. Most open tour buses arrive from Ho Chi Minh City to the south (a 10-12 hour journey) and from Hoi An to the north (a 16-hour journey).

Nha Trang is Vietnam’s most famous seaside resort town. It's more lively and urban in character compared to other beach destinations like Mui Ne and Phu Quoc. It's also the scuba diving center of Vietnam.

Understand

Traces of human settlement in Nha Trang date back to the Cham Empire, although during the Vietnamese rule, it was little more than small fishing villages. The French recognized the beauty of this bay, with its islands and white sand beaches, and began transforming it into a resort town.

The monsoon season lasts from October to mid-December. During this time, sea winds can be strong, and the weather can sometimes get quite chilly. Summer, as expected, attracts many vacationers, and hotel rooms can become somewhat more difficult to find. By night, late-night pickpockets target tourists, and motorbike taxis can be a genuine problem. Occasionally, they may even try to sell women. A simple taxi ride can turn into a problem. Police presence is virtually nonexistent in the city. While Nha Trang has plenty of charm during the day, by night, it is a city where I'd recommend taking basic precautions (like you would in places like Bangkok, Saigon, or Patong).

Get around

Today, most of the tourist infrastructure is located in the southern part of town around Biet Thu, while most of the locals reside around the Cho Dam in the northern quarters. Tran Phu is the backbone of the city, accompanied by a pleasant waterfront promenade, palm trees, and nearly 6 km of beach. We stayed on Tran Phu Road.

Nha Trang has a reliable and easy-to-navigate public bus system, with a ticket fare that does not exceed 3000 dong for a ride on a modern, air-conditioned bus with Vietnamese music. A wonderful option for seeing the sights is to hire a cyclo driver for the day at USD $10.

I found the city tour to be quite similar to what we've seen in other cities. It included a visit to Long Son Pagoda (79 ft. tall white Buddha) and Po Nagar. Since I was more interested in seeing the Po Nagar Temple, we skipped the city tour. There are island tours available, but we skipped them as well, since it would have meant missing Po Nagar. We hired motorbike taxis for us, taking two bikes. The journey was nice and interesting, and you can enjoy a 360-degree view with the beach on your right.

Po Nagar Cham Towers: Admission: US$ 0.8. The name reminded me of T Nagar in Chennai, India. These four brick towers were built by the Cham civilization between the 7th and 12th centuries to honor Yang Ino Po Ngar, the mother of the kingdom. The incense aroma inside the temple makes it clear that it remains an active religious site for the local Buddhists of Nha Trang. The longevity of these last vestiges of a once-dominant Southeast Asian civilization should impress temple enthusiasts. The small complex sits on a hill with views of Nha Trang's fishing village, offering a wonderful view of the city. We spent some time there and saw Lingas inside the temple. The temple is well-maintained (restored), and there is a nice museum inside.

After visiting the temple, we took the bike waiting for us outside to drop us near the hotel. Since we were hungry, we had lunch at KFC before returning to the hotel. Mohua had some urgent official work, which she tried to complete at the internet kiosk inside the hotel (free). However, due to a sudden power cut, everything she had written was deleted! Because of the power cut, we had to wait for a while before she could send the work to India.

We then decided to go to the beach for swimming. The beach is the main draw here, but the sand is quite littered. If you're coming to Nha Trang specifically for the beach and have been to other Asian destinations like Thailand and the Philippines, you might be disappointed. You’ll see many women vendors walking along the beach selling fruit and hot, steamed seafood. There was some activity on the beach, like parasailing and beach volleyball. People were also playing football. I swam for about an hour and then sat on the beach for some time. By the time we left, it was almost dark. We went to see an exquisite exhibition near the beach. The embroidery work in Vietnam is simply mind-blowing—I've never seen anything like it before. After dinner, we returned to our hotel, where the party had already started. There's a nightclub in front of our hotel, so it was a bit difficult to sleep due to the noise.

We bought some provisions from one of the many departmental stores (similar to the 7/11 shops in Thailand). Before coming to Vietnam, I had read that organized retail is allowed here, unlike in India, despite the country being communist. We bought items from the nearby A Mart. There are a couple of well-stocked modern mini-supermarkets in the main tourist area, called A Mart. These stores are very much aimed at the tourist market, and you’ll rarely see locals shopping here. Another remarkable thing in Nha Trang is that many places have everything written only in Russian, showing that it’s a favorite destination for Russians.

6/4/2013

We got up early in the morning, had breakfast at the hotel, and left for Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). I had wanted to visit Mui Ne and Da Lat, but due to lack of time, we had to skip both. Da Lat is a hilly region and lies on one of the routes to Ho Chi Minh City.

We took the other route via Mui Ne. Mui Ne is a lovely resort area in Phan Thiet, near Ho Chi Minh City in southern Vietnam. The previously sparsely populated beach south of the fishing village of Mui Ne has seen significant development over the last 15 years. Now, it is a 15 km long strip of resorts lining Nguyen Dinh Chieu street, shaded by coconut palms. The main resort area is between the addresses of 2 and 98 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, and it’s actually named Ham Tien.

By Bus

Most overseas visitors reach Mui Ne via "Open Tour" buses that run between Ho Chi Minh City and Nha Trang. We reached Mui Ne around 2:00 PM and had lunch at one of the restaurants near our bus station. Some people got off the bus at Mui Ne, while others boarded for Saigon.

The buses stop in the heart of the tourist strip in Mui Ne, so there’s no need to take a taxi. If you're traveling from Mui Ne to Ho Chi Minh City, you will likely be placed on a bus already full from Nha Trang. Some less scrupulous travel agents might not even provide you with an actual seat.

Getting Around

Mui Ne is easy to navigate, as the area consists of one long strip along the main street, Nguyen Dinh Chieu. Motorbike taxis (xe om) are everywhere, and their drivers will often approach you as you leave your hotel. Bargain hard to get the right price—10,000 to 15,000 VND is usually enough to pay for a ride from one place to another along the main strip.

On the way to Mui Ne, we passed some temples that are remnants of the ancient Cham culture, dating back to the 8th century. The entire journey from Nha Trang to Mui Ne is quite breathtaking.

Day Tours in Mui Ne

There are various day tours available in Mui Ne. Travel agents and restaurants often offer these tours, which typically cost around $10-13 USD for a half-day tour. The standard tour includes a visit to the fishing village, the fairy stream, and the red and white sand dunes. Tours usually start either at 5:00 AM or 2:30 PM, so you can catch the sunrise or sunset over the dunes. Unfortunately, we couldn’t participate in a tour, as our bus only stopped for lunch.

However, on the way to Mui Ne, we saw the fascinating landscape of the red sand dunes. The famous Sand Dunes are located at the north end of Mui Ne Bay, about 10 km from the main resort strip. The entire region is quite sandy, with orange sand often blowing onto the coastal road. Most day tours offered by local operators include a stop at the dunes.

Beach

The sea is wonderfully warm but can be quite rough, with large waves and a strong rip tide. When the tide is in, the beach is often quite small. The area between kilometer markers 11 and 13 has the largest stretch of sandy beach that remains intact. Since large waves typically start after 11 AM, you may prefer to swim in the early morning when the water is calm.

Get out

The bus journey to Nha Trang and Ho Chi Minh City takes about 5 hours. After having lunch, we left for Saigon. Mohua didn't get off the bus, so I bought packed food for her. We continued on our journey to our last destination: Saigon. By the time we reached Saigon, it was already dark, and we arrived around 8 PM.

Ho Chi Minh City 

Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC), formerly known as Saigon, is Vietnam’s largest city and the former capital of South Vietnam. Despite being renamed after the fall of Saigon in 1975, the name "Saigon" is still widely used by both locals and visitors.

Getting Around:

• By Bus: The No. 152 non-air-conditioned airport bus is a cheap and safe way to travel from the airport to Pham Ngu Lao Street, with a 5,000 dong fee for luggage. The bus stops at the east end of the Pham Ngu Lao area near the Ben Thanh Market roundabout. The bus service is only available until 6:00 PM, so make sure to plan accordingly. The fare is affordable, but it's important to have exact change as the bus only gives coins in return, which are often not accepted in some places.

• By Cyclo: A cyclo ride, a reverse tricycle where passengers sit in the front seat, offers a great way to see the city at a relaxed pace. It's a popular choice to experience the hustle and bustle of Ho Chi Minh City. However, be cautious with valuables like cameras and watches, as these can be targeted by motorbike riders.

Traffic:

• Ho Chi Minh City has an overwhelming number of motorbikes, making crossing the street a challenge for newcomers. The traffic can seem chaotic, but you get used to it over time. A good tip is to follow a local when crossing or seek help from the "Tourist Security" officers in their green uniforms, who are always happy to assist.

Travel Tips:

• Airport Tips: If you're traveling to the airport, be specific about which terminal you need to go to. International flights depart from the newer terminal, while domestic flights are from the older one. Taxi drivers charge a 10,000 dong entry fee to drop passengers off at the airport, which is separate from the airport departure tax included in your flight ticket.

• Maps: You’ll receive a free tourist map at Tan Son Nhat International Airport, and most hotels also offer maps of the District 1 area, which is similar to a neighborhood in other cities. Be sure to pick one up to navigate better around the city.

Talk

As with most other parts of Vietnam, the main language is Vietnamese. The local dialect of Vietnamese is the southern dialect, which differs somewhat from the northern dialect spoken in Hanoi. However, speakers of both dialects are usually able to understand each other. English is spoken by most of the younger, well-educated upper class. Educated senior citizens are usually able to speak French, though, generally speaking, English is far more useful these days.
Ho Chi Minh City is also home to a sizable ethnic Chinese community, mostly around Chinatown, and many of them are bilingual in Cantonese and Vietnamese. A few useful phrases are:

• Hello: Xin Chào
• Excuse Me / Sorry: Xin Lỗi
• Thank You: Cảm ơn
• Very Good: Rất Tốt
• Bye: Tạm Biệt

However, we had great difficulty communicating in Vietnam. Hardly anybody speaks English on the street. So, the idea I had that apart from the Philippines, Vietnam might pose a threat to India's booming BPO industry was unfounded. But generally, people in Saigon speak better English.

Since we were late, we walked around the touristy part of Saigon and booked our city tour for the next day. Our hotel was in a very convenient location. The touristy part of Saigon is quite similar to the scene at Khao San Road in Bangkok. We had wonderful strawberry Shinto (juice) and Pho at a chain restaurant, Pho 24.

7/4/2013

Today we left for the city tour. We were picked up from our hotel and had some Vietnamese spring rolls for breakfast. Since it was off-season, they hired a mini-van as there weren’t many passengers. We met a nice Malaysian couple in the van.

See

First, we went to the War Remnants Museum – Open daily from 7:30 AM-12 PM, 1:30 PM-5 PM. The museum was opened in a hurry, less than five months after the fall of the South Vietnamese regime. It has moved to new premises with three stories of exhibits and various U.S. military hardware (tanks, jets, helicopters, howitzers) displayed outside the building. This disturbing display of man’s cruelty during the Vietnam (American) War includes halls filled with gruesome photographs, a simulated "tiger cage" prison, and jars of deformed fetuses attributed to contamination by Agent Orange.

An exhibit on the 3rd floor tells the story of war journalists from around the world who documented the war and, in many cases, disappeared or died. As usual, I was late, and the other tourists were waiting for us. Actually, the time allotted is completely inadequate.

There were many things I saw that I had never heard of or known before. I had no idea that Agent Orange was used on such a large scale by the Americans. I would be lying if I said I came out with ‘just’ a bad impression of America's role during the war. In reality, it was extremely disturbing and changed my attitude toward Vietnam somewhat (especially since we had been a bit annoyed by the continuous cheating we were subjected to in Vietnam before coming to the museum). It’s not without reason that Bertrand Russell used such strong words to condemn U.S. vandalism. Even today, many Vietnamese children suffer from Agent Orange (transmitted from their parents). See the pictures below.

                         

Effect of Agent orange

On the way, I could see the Mariamman Temple (a Hindu temple in the South Indian style – typical of this region, be it Singapore, Bangkok, or KL) in Saigon.

Thien Hau Pagoda: Then, we went to the Thien Hau Pagoda. The elderly Malaysian couple offered a prayer there. It is dedicated to Lady Thien Hau, the sea goddess, who left two giant turtles to keep an eye on things in her absence. A festival is held in her honor on the 23rd day of March. Don’t miss the gorgeous sculptures on the walls of the courtyard outside the temple. Entry is free.

Then, it suddenly started raining, so I had a chat with our guide. I told her that the name Ho Chi Minh is very well known in India. I asked her many questions, and she told me she couldn’t answer too many because she might end up in jail if she shared internal matters about Vietnam! It was very apparent she was not happy with the present government. Like in most communist countries, there are human rights violations everywhere. So, what I had read was correct.

• Then we went to the wholesale market for some shopping: Chợ Bình Tây in Chinatown, which sells everything from spices and Chinese medicines to silk and obscure varieties of fermented fish and dried seafood. If you're searching for a variety of Vietnamese silks and velvets, skip the tourist trap of Ben Thanh Market and head to Bình Tây instead. Most of Chợ Bình Tây consists of wholesale goods. The market reminded me somewhat of markets in India. It is chaotic and quite hot inside, but some of the items are interesting.

• Lacquerware (opposite Lucky Plaza on Dong Khoi) is one of the standout things to bring home from Saigon. We went to the lacquerware shop, and Mohua bought some souvenirs from there.

Then we went for a lunch break. We were brought to District 1, the tourist area of Saigon. Some new tourists joined the tour after lunch, and some co-tourists left. We had lunch at the same Pho 24 shop.

Afterward, we visited the Reunification Palace, which is open daily from 7:30 AM–11:00 AM and 1:00 PM–4:00 PM.

Also known as Independence Palace (the old name), this is a restored five-floor building largely untouched since the day Saigon fell to the North. Construction started in 1962 and was completed in 1966. Formerly South Vietnam's presidential palace, the war ended on April 30, 1975, when tank #843 crashed through the gate. A replica of that tank is now parked on the lawn outside. Be sure to check out the impressively kitschy recreation room, featuring a circular sofa, and the eerie basement, which is full of vintage 1960s phones, radios, and office equipment, supposedly left exactly as it was found when the North took over. There is also a photo gallery and a propaganda film recounting how the South Vietnamese supporters and American imperialists succumbed to Ho Chi Minh's indomitable revolutionary forces. Afterward, the South Vietnamese supporters were forgiven, and everyone lived happily ever after. There is a nice outdoor café on the grounds outside the palace. Entry is 30,000 dong. One can also enjoy a nice view of the city from the Reunification Palace.

Next, we went to see the beautiful Notre-Dame Cathedral. This is a French-built Catholic cathedral in the city center with free entry. Apparently, everything was brought from France to build this cathedral. Afterward, we visited the main post office across from the cathedral. Its façade is quite nice. Inside the post office, it is more like a souvenir shop. They have essentially converted everything into a shop, which seems to be a marketing strategy used everywhere we have gone. It's a good way of promoting the country. We have a lot to learn from them.

Just in front of the post office, we saw a photo shoot of a newlywed couple.

Eat

You're spoiled for choice in Saigon, which offers the country's largest variety of Vietnamese and international food. However, bargains are becoming harder to find, and restaurant prices have been rising by up to 30% per year due to a combination of higher food prices, rising wages, and soaring real estate costs. Land in the city center now sells for around US$16,000 per square meter, so even a modest-sized restaurant sits on real estate worth more than US$1 million. Authentic local food at bargain prices is one of the glories of Vietnam, but it's becoming harder to find in Saigon as the city becomes more upscale and cosmopolitan.

The local food shows influences from French colonial times—bakeries offer fresh and excellent baguettes, which they will fill with cheese, potted meat, ham, and onions, or any combination thereof, at reasonable prices. Beef is used in various dishes, whether in any of the many variations of pho or in a regional specialty such as Hue beef soup. Be sure to try, aside from pho, dishes such as the aforementioned Hue beef soup, or "banh xeo."

Budget

Food stalls are scattered all over the city, with a good collection in Ben Thanh Market. For local fast food, we tried the ubiquitous Pho 24 chain (though it can be more than twice the price of local fare). Additionally, foreign fast-food franchises like KFC have established presences in the city.

Pho 24: A clean, modern chain found everywhere in Ho Chi Minh City, offering excellent beef noodle soup. Be careful of the fake Pho 24/24 on Pham Ngu Lao Street, which does not belong to the chain and serves terrible and expensive food.

 

Coffee Shops

Vietnam is the world's second-largest exporter of coffee, behind Brazil, and cà phê is very popular among the Vietnamese. It's a paradise for coffee-loving visitors. The local style is strong and sweet; key words to remember are: sữa (sweetened condensed milk), đá (ice), and nóng (hot, pronounced "nowm"). Cà phê đá is strong, sweet iced coffee; and cà phê sữa đá is the same but with condensed milk. Cà phê (sữa) nóng is brewed fresh at your table in a little metal apparatus placed over a cup. Prices range from 10,000 to 20,000 dong for coffee in the local style.

Since ice might or might not be made with purified water, strictly cautious visitors should avoid it, though long-term residents consume ice from reputable cafes and restaurants all the time.

Sleep

There are plenty of nice and reasonably priced local hotels available for tourists, as well as very expensive international chains like Sheraton and Hyatt.

Budget

The main backpacker hangout is Pham Ngu Lao in District 1, just a short walk (10 minutes) from Ben Thanh Market. The lanes and alleys in the area between Pham Ngu Lao and Bui Vien are jammed with 5-10 room mini-hotels offering prices around US$15 per room (air-con with hot shower and cable TV).

Contact

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) telephone code: 08. Please note that in late 2008, many (but not all) landline phone numbers in Vietnam were given the prefix 3. Free Wi-Fi access is provided at many hotels, guesthouses, restaurants, and cafés. You can find open access points that don't require a password throughout the area around Pham Ngu Lao/Vu Bien and Ben Thanh Market.

Get Out

There are some tours we could not take, since we would have had to stay one more day in Saigon:

• Cu Chi Tunnels: Day trips are tirelessly promoted by travel agencies around Pham Ngu Lao and can be done as a half-day trip or a full-day trip with a stop at Tay Ninh to see the Holy See of the Cao Dai religion. Tours, including admission, should cost 70,000-110,000 dong, and are available every day of the week. The Cu Chi tunnels are about a 1.5-hour drive from HCMC center. It's worth taking the trip to see these amazing underground structures that were used for survival during wartime. There is also a shooting range where tourists can fire the same guns used in the tunnels during the war. One way to get to the tunnels is by speedboat.

• Mekong Delta: Boat tours are available with almost an infinite mix of itineraries, ranging from short overnight trips to leisurely meanders over several nights. If doing a two or three-day Mekong Tour, expect to be shuffled between tour companies along the way. Since we have already been to the Sundarbans in India, the largest delta in the world, I thought we could skip this.

• Phnom Penh: A 6-hour bus ride to the capital of Cambodia ranges from US$10-12 (210,000-252,000 dong). When you pass into Cambodia and the bus rests for 15 minutes, do not buy anything from the roadside café. Instead, cross the road to purchase drinks or food from the roadside shops because prices can be up to 50% cheaper than at the bus stop café.

Alternatively, you could book a tour with a boat and bus to Phnom Penh in Cambodia, which will have you spending a night in a cheap hotel in Chau Doc before making the trip over the border (cross-border package prices may include visa support, which should cost 360,000-530,000 dong). Avoid Kumho Samco, as they will try to charge $25 instead of $20 for the Cambodia visa.

After we were done with the day tour, we went to the hotel to pick up our luggage and left for the bus station, which departs (last bus at 6 pm) for the airport. At the airport, we had to buy even water at an astronomical price. NOTHING IS FREE in Vietnam. Not even a glass of water. That made me really annoyed.

Anyway, we reached Bangkok within an hour and spent the night at the airport to catch the morning flight the next day.

8/4/2013

We arrived in Kolkata on time, and I quickly rushed to my office to save my half day !

Major Source : Wikitravel, wikipedia and numerous other references