Mandir-moy Pathra - little known grand temple town of Bengal

We (Ashitda and his wife, Arko and his wife ) left for Pathra on 9.8.14. by Tata Sumo. Ashita picked us from Exide More and we took the road towards Kona Expressway. At Kolaghat Dhaba we had the usual rounds of tea (Rs 16), Kachori (4 pcs @ Rs 40). The food was good.

Route to Pathra - click here 

Pathra, on the bank of the river Kangsabati, is a village of temples. There are 34 temples in the village, all over 200 years old. Barely 10-15 km from Midnapore town, this nondescript hamlet is a treasure trove for those who like to travel back in time.

The history of Pathra goes back to the Gupta age, when the place was the hinterland of Tamralipta port, a gateway to southeast Asia. From 8th Century to 12th Century, it was an important hub for Hindus, Jains and Buddhists. A majestic Vishnu Lokeshwar statue dug out in the village in October 1961 revealed both Hindu and Buddhist influences, indicating that practitioners of both religions frequented Pathra.

The turning point in the history of the village came in 1732, when Nawab Alivardi Khan appointed Bidyananda Ghoshal as the revenue collector of Ratnachawk pargana.

Bidyananda established temple after temple in the village, making it a major draw for Hindu pilgrims. The nawab, however, was not too pleased with Bidyananda’s work. He was thrown into prison and then sentenced to death. Legend has it that the elephant that was to crush Bidyananda’s head refused to do so.

The Ghoshal family changed its surname to Majumdar and continued building temples till the end of the 18th Century.

Another branch of the family, with surname Bandopadhyay, also started constructing temples. With indigo   cultivation and silk trade boosting the family’s fortunes, funds were not difficult to come by.

The decline started as the rich families shifted base from the village and ignorant local residents started vandalising the temples. Many of the structures were reduced to rubble. There was neither any initiative from the government nor from the academic circle to preserve the structures.

The efforts of a local resident named Yeasin Pathan and a handful of scholars from the mid-1960s finally bore fruit in the form of government grant and technical assistance from IIT Kharagpur in saving the temples. A slice of Bengal’s glorious past was salvaged in the nick of time. The timid looking man with a frail frame would hardly resemble any activist. Md. Yeasin Pathan (awarded Kabir for communal Harmony by the Hon’ble president of India) was much beyond an activist. A Muslim who had struggled and fought for this upkeep of Hindu temples. A High School Peon who despite his meager means had given the temples the status they deserved. Over two centuries old these temples talked through the walls reminding us of the glorious days of the zamindars.

Today, 28 out of 34 temples in Pathra are under the supervision of the Archaeological Survey of India. It has repaired 18 temples.

Orientation

There are two sets of temples - one on the road and near the river and second set of temples located about 200 m away and not at all visible from the road. These temples are far better preserved and well worth the little walk that will carry you there.

When we reached we first encountered the nava-ratna temple (on the main road) on the western bank of the river is the grandest. The 250-year-old, 40-ft high structure has nine towers and many terracotta panels on its walls. A small aat-chala temple established in 1816 stands in the same compound. The backdrop of river makes it very interesting. We were told during rainy season the river takes a different shape altogether.

Just opposite to it is a cluster of three aat-chala temples and a small nava-ratna temple called Shiva-laya. Terracotta artworks adorn these temples, too. Behind them is a Durga-dalan, a temple-like structure made of stone. There is also Kalachand dalan nearby.

There is a small ground here where people often come for picnic and sometimes shooting takes places here. It is not very difficult for us to understand that the place is ideal for that  - with terracotta temples all around.One of the temples show the date of completion 1761 – our guide Prabhash Bhattacharya showed us that. He is a very interesting person and even acted in a theatre and got award for his acting skill ! He made our day.

 Some distance away from the main road is another group of pancharatna temples, built in the typical Bengal style and enriched with terracotta sculptures.These temples are better preserved and have intact Shivalinga idols that are still worshipped by the locals.. The terracotta panels that still exist bear images of Ram, Balaram, Radha and Krishna, Dashavatar, Hanuman, Durga and hunting. One can see the guns in the hand of soldiers at the entrance.The majority of the temples are dedicated to Krishna, Vishnu and Shiva. Most of the temples offer glimpses of Islamic architectural styles. Stucco lime and seashell are the main materials used.

There’s also a simple yet attractive rasmancha, built in 1832. It has nine small towers – little further ahead and then take left turn through the un-metalled road. There are few more temples on the way which we could not go because of heavy rain.

The other important temples are Sarba Mangal, Das Mahavidya and Hansa.

The second biggest temple of Pathra is a Sitala temple popularly known as Buri-marthan. It, too, is 40 ft high. The lousy restoration made to this temple with plasters look like any modern day temple. City planning students at IIT Kharagpur have done extensive research on Pathra. They have proposed to develop the village as a heritage tourism destination. We came back around 8 pm to Kolkata. We had also planned to go to Gopgarh, but had to abandon our plan due to rain. Trip tips Train Local and express trains are running from Howrah to Midnapore. Distance from Midnapore to Pathra is 10-15 km. Pathra is easily accessible by car or trekker from Midnapore via Hatikhola. Car Pathra is a two-hour drive from the city. The road inside the village can be difficult to navigate after a spell of rain. Take NH6 (Bombay road) towards Kharagpur. Before reaching Pathra you will reach Kharagpur and then take the road which goes to the right towards Midnapore - soon after a few kilometers we crossed the bridge over the river kangsabati and asked for direction and then took an almost U turn from Dharma More . At the end (after travelling 7-10 Km to reach Pathra) there is a fork in the road one of which goes towards Midnapore and the other runs parallel to the river and goes towards Pathra - you fill find a giant banyan tree on the left. Keep following this road until you reach the temples which are well marked with ASI signboards. . But you have to ask people. People generally know the name Pathra. Pathan has written a book called “Mandir-moy Pathrar  Itibritta”. On the way we saw a bridge which can be safely called Hunch back of Notredam ! Contact Pathra Archaeological Preservation Committee (Phone: 9932785126) for additional information.  By Road: Distances Kolkata – Kharagpur – 115Km Kharagpur to Dharma More (Bridge on River Kangsabati) – 7km Dharma More to Pathra – 7-10 km Road Conditions: (August 2014) Kolkata to Kharagpur – 4 Lane Tar towards Medinipur – Single Lane road with occasional potholes. Towards Pathra – Road is under construction. Presently in very bad shape. Accommodation Since there is no option for accommodation at Pathra therefore you have to stay in the town of Midnapore. WBTDC Rani Shiromani Tourist Lodge. Tel: (03222) 263125, 9732510074. Tariff - Double Bed Rs. 700-1000. Source:    1.       http://somensengupta.com/Pathra.html        2.       http://thoughtshoppe.blogspot.in/2011/02/temples-of-pathra.html        3.       http://therollersorigins.wordpress.com/2013/10/15/pathra For more pictures you can see http://cameyes.blogspot.in/2011/08/pathra-village-of-terracotta-temples_27.html Location https://www.google.com/maps/@22.408837,87.417757,368m/data=!3m1!1e3?hl=en-US

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The Telegraph Article: Football backpacker bound for Brazil- Calcuttan saves up for more than a decade for dream trip to World Cup - SUDESHNA BANERJEE

My interview in The telegraph on 6.6.14.

Pobre Indiano. Nao me roube (Poor Indian. Don’t rob me) Sourabh Datta Gupta’s survival kit for Brazil includes these words in Portuguese that he has got custom-printed on a T-shirt bought at Maidan Market. “People have been warning me about theft in Brazil. I thought it prudent to appeal to the better nature of potential strikers,” said Sourabh, an employee of a state government undertaking who has been saving for more than a decade to fulfil his dream of watching the Fifa World Cup. The 43-year-old’s dream trip starts on Friday night with a train journey to Mumbai, from where he is scheduled to catch a flight to Brazil. Sourabh’s closest encounter with Brazilian football before this was in 2002, when he was based in Delhi. He had read about Ronald Machado, the husband of the then Brazilian ambassador, playing with Garrincha and written to the embassy about his passion for the game and admiration for the World Cup-winning captain. “The World Cup was on at the time and I got an invitation to watch the matches at the embassy with the other Latin American ambassadors and also attend their World Cup party,” he recalled, narrating stories about Garrincha at Botafogo club that he had heard from Ronald. The Delhi experience made Sourabh, who calls himself a “worshipper” of jogo bonito(the beautiful game) and maintains a large collection of football videos, contemplate the possibility of watching a World Cup in a host country someday. “I couldn’t go in 2006 as I hadn’t saved enough and missed the one in 2010 because the recession had dragged down the value of my stocks. With this edition of the tournament happening in Brazil itself, I just had to go, even if it meant selling off an apartment that I had invested in,” he said. But Brazil, he soon realised, was a very expensive country to be visiting. He had saved around Rs 3 lakh for the trip while travel agencies were said to be charging Rs 6-9 lakh for two-week package tours. His plan to stay there close to a month made Mission Brazil look even more intimidating. When he last checked, dormitory bunk beds were going for Rs 8,500 a night ahead of the “good matches”. Fortunately for Sourabh, he had a friend’s uncle to fall back on. Babu S.P. Narahari, a bachelor from south India, has been based in Santos since 1969 and will play host to Sourabh when he isn’t travelling across south and central Brazil. “I take Babu Mama around whenever he comes to Calcutta, so he was there for me. But I needed accommodation elsewhere too,” he said. Out of desperation, Sourabh posted an appeal on the online forum of a global cultural exchange group. As a member of the group, he had previously hosted foreigners visiting Calcutta and thought that someone would do him a similar turn in Brazil. Strong online recommendations from each of his guests in Calcutta, including by a Brazilian boy named Hugo Sampio whom he had taken to Mohun Bagan Football Club, clinched the deal for Sourabh. It was only after acceptances started coming in, leaving him spoilt for choice in some cities, that Sourabh started his preparations for Brazil. His first attempt at buying match tickets was during a Fifa online lottery in end-January. It landed him a ticket to a Portugal-Ghana match. In March, another round of bookings opened on the Fifa site. “But our server was down for an hour and a half and by the time I could log in, tickets to the best matches were gone,” Sourabh recounted. He had to be content with tickets to three second-rung matches. Another Calcuttan whom his “Babu Mama” has agreed to host on his recommendation repaid the favour by helping him get a ticket for a match featuring Brazil. Sourabh will put on his yellow jersey and cheer his favourite team as the Samba boys takes on Cameroon in Brasilia on June 23. Before that, he has dates with Belgium and Algeria on June 17 and Columbia and Ivory Coast on June 19. He will watch a match each featuring Portugal and England as well. Until the start of the week, Sourabh had been spending nights trying to book long-distance bus tickets online. Portuguese posed the biggest problem before his newfound Brazilian friends pitched in. “I sent them an SOS on WhatsApp,” he said of Douglas Moreira and Hugo, who taught him that todos meant all stations and comprerwas the command to buy a ticket. But when CSP turned out to be social security number, and CIP the zip code, he was again all at sea. “Rodolpho Cammarosano de Lima, one of my hosts in Brasilia, offered his own address and other details and it was 4am when I went to sleep after buying the first of the bus tickets,” Sourabh said. Till a couple of days back, he did not have a host in Rio de Janeiro. “I had written to a girl seeking accommodation in the famous hillside favelas. They are much better than our slums. The rent would be cheaper and I would get to stay where Garrincha did!” he said. On Thursday, he got an invitation from Suhaila Terra Brito, a doctor’s wife. In Rio, he does not have a match ticket yet but has booked his place in a football match organised by locals for fans from across the world. “I would have to pay a fraction of the venue rent. I have told them that even if I get to tap the ball once, I am in.” https://www.telegraphindia.com Please read this amazing article  http://www.nytimes.com My second interview in The telegraph on 13.7.14. In the land of Jogo Bonito Futsal to favela: Sourabh Dattagupta, a 43-year-old Calcuttan, on his 25-day football pilgrimage to Brazil that was 10 years in the making A Maradona lookalike dons the Albiceleste warpaint in Copacabana We were cruising at 35,000ft. A group of Ivory Coast supporters had boarded our Ethiopian Airlines flight and in the dead of night, dressed in colourful gear they sprung to life, parading down the aisle, singing and playing trumpets and maracas. We were headed for the greatest carnival on earth and the party had already begun. Sao Paulo A fan tries his ‘hand’ at getting a ticket Hugo, a Brazilian student who had stayed in our Rashbehari Avenue home during a trip to India, was there to receive me at the airport. He drove me to his father’s house. Other than a swimming pool, the housing complex had a futsal ground. This five-a-side variant of football is tremendously popular in Brazil. I had seen on YouTube how skilled these players are in dribbling and juggling. Hugo gave me a quick introduction to Brazilian lifestyle. One point that stood out: the necessity of a bath! “We Brazilians hug a lot, so we bathe two-three times a day,” he said. The next day he took me to Fifa Fan Fest, where a giant screen had been put up. But the crowd and the lack of seats made us beat a retreat at half time. His friends joined us, as did his girlfriend. Soon I gathered it was their Valentine’s Day. After stopping at a salgado(snacks) counter, I bid them adios (goodbye) and left for the home of a friend’s uncle. I was wearing a T-shirt made to order at Maidan market that had the words “Pobre Indiano. No me Roube” (Poor Indian. Do not rob me) printed on it. As I was walking to the bus stop, a group of youths spotted it and burst out laughing. This T-shirt worked as a conversation-starter throughout my trip and opened my eyes to the high regard Brazilians have for India. One of the youths, William, was a theology teacher and had read The Mahabharata. Sourabh sports his made-in-Maidan market tee Santos Santos is a port city in the state of Sao Paulo. While Pele remains its biggest mascot, having played for the local club all his life — he is on billboards endorsing products — Robinho has been the recent star. While playing football with the local boys on the beach, I learnt that Brazil’s current mascot Neymar Jr too has played here for long. It was touching to see how deeply they love him. The next day, I set off for the Fifa office in Sao Paulo by bus to collect the match tickets I had booked on the Fifa site. Taxi in Brazil is prohibitively costly. So is telephone, especially pre-paid ones. They all use WhatsApp. Hugo taught me that when I called him that day. The two-line conversation cost me R$2.50 (Rs 72)! Neymar rules the shelves too I was lucky to be in Santos when the Pele Museum opened. Brazilian President Dilma Rousseff was to inaugurate it, along with Pele. Given the political atmosphere, that drew a horde of protesters to the venue and I couldn’t get in till all the guests had left. So I had to be content seeing his boot and jersey instead of the legend himself. Beautiful horizon That’s what Belo Horizonte, my next destination, means. By now, I had figured out that whatever the distance, city buses and Metros had flat rates, around R$3. For the 65-plus, it’s free. But long-distance buses are costly, nearing flight rates on some routes. Rocinha, Rio’s biggest favela, decked in national colours My host Leandro’s parents were so thrilled to have me over that the next day they took me to the market, introducing me to all passers-by as “Indiano”. Real estate is so costly that unlike elsewhere in the West, children stay on with their parents for long. Leo’s father was a volunteer at the Confederations Cup and gifted me that T-shirt. “Don’t wear it now. Tourists will take you to be a volunteer.” With my little Spanish and no Portuguese, that would indeed be a calamity! It was in the city of the architect Oscar Niemeyer, famous for its food and hospitality, that I was to watch my first match: Belgium vs Algeria. But I was so overwhelmed with the colourful crowd that I could barely focus on the match. It hardly helped that people in front kept walking in and out, for an unending supply of beer. Over to Brasilia Though I missed the bus to Brasilia that night, the conductors at the depot made sure I reached at the same time by a different route at no extra cost, without understanding any English. An eagerness to help seems to run in their blood. Here I stayed with Douglas, who works in a government hospital. Healthcare is free in Brazil, including medicines. The roads were velvety. There were no powercuts. “So what the heck are you all protesting against?” I asked, bewildered. “Corruption,” he replied. Douglas plays the violin at the local church and took me to a church-organised fair where I had churrasco, their famous grilled meat. We also went for the Colombia-Ivory Coast match. At my next stop, I reached the day my host Rodolpho’s girlfriend was leaving town. I felt uneasy about being a “kebab mein haddi” but soon realised that they have no qualms about public display of affection. Messi is always larger than life The next day, we went for the Brazil-Cameroon match and Rodolpho chose his jersey from an array in his wardrobe. On match day, everyone, with or without a ticket, is in a Selecao shirt. So I sat in a sea of yellow at the Arena Mane Garrincha. I got my face painted at no cost, again courtesy my “Indiano” tee. Neymar looked so frail up close that I wondered how he survived the giant defenders. He wouldn’t for long, as it later turned out. I had a ticket to the England-Costa Rica match the next day in Belo Horizonte. England was already out of the tournament but that hardly stopped the supporters from singing along. The full team was not fielded initially. I had to wait for a long time to see Wayne Rooney and Steven Gerrard in action. After the match, I visited a picture postcard town called Ouro Preto, a world heritage site that was home to Brazil’s 18th century gold rush. In the bus on the way back, I met an Indonesian boy who showed me his pictures with Beckham, Messi and other gods. I lost no time in sending him a Facebook invite. At night, when I reached Rodolpho’s house, there were five others sleeping over. A Brazilian girl got so excited on learning I was from India that she sang me the opening bars of Daler Mehendi’s Tunak tunak tun and danced a Bollywood jig. For the Portugal-Ghana match the day after, my seat was behind the goal and both goals happened at my end. Here I met a Bangladeshi who was a volunteer. Fifa, I learnt, takes volunteers from across the globe who have to reach and stay at their own cost. This man was lucky that his duty was in the galleries and he could watch the match free. A ‘referee’ halts the march to Maracana stadium with a red card Last stop Rio Dali and Mozart greeted me at my next host Suhaila’s place in Rio de Janeiro. No, not the masters, these were her cats. The world had descended on Copacabana beach to party. But I stood transfixed watching two girls playing with a football on the water’s edge, oblivious to the revelry— trapping it on the chest and in the same motion passing it to the other without the ball ever touching the ground. Jogo Bonito! Despite the happy memories of watching matches on the giant screen at the beach, my best experience was seeing a Brazil match live in Rocinha, Rio’s biggest favela (slum). TV sets were put up every 10 metres in serpentine alleys wrapped in flags, big and small. Life had come to a halt. Each pass triggered animated debates, each missed chance fuelled agitated reactions. After the victory, hundreds of chocolate bombs were burst, just like back home. The day I landed in Calcutta, Brazil crashed out. Watching the debacle on TV, it was the people of the favelas, who seemed to embody the passion we associate Brazil with, that my heart went out to. World Cup beats in Brasilia AS TOLD TO SUDESHNA BANERJEE What is your most enduring image of World Cup 2014? Tell ttmetro@abpmail.com http://epaper.telegraphindia.com/paper/23-16-13

Jhalmuri is a hit in London

I was lucky to meet Angus two months back while going to a tribal village. His love for Bengali food is infectious. Please read the article here telegraphindia.com . I am now taking him to hidden food treasures of Kolkata. He has made an amazing documentary on street food of Kolkata. Without any doubt it is the best I have ever seen in this category - it is unique in its own way. If you want a copy, you can contact me.He is also writing a book on street foods of Kolkata. According to him in Kolkata you get the best street food anywhere in the world taking everything into consideration. 

click the link for the documentary in Fox Travel and Living in "Eat Street"

Jhalmuri man

A humble newspaper cone of jhalmuri from the streets of Calcutta changed the life of Angus Denoon. Selling his house, the Englishman moved into a van from which he started selling jhalmuri across London, wrote a book, and made a film. Denoon tells t2 how it all started and why Calcutta continues to fascinate him. How did your love affair with Calcutta street food begin?  I first came to Calcutta eight years ago, only for a day. But that day was the last day of Durga Puja and the city was very open and friendly. At Sealdah, I saw all the drummers (dhakis) and I remember thinking “this is unbelievable!” I came back for longer the next year. I noticed the hand movements of the street-food sellers — like a dance, fluid and precise, with no wasted energy. The way they run their kitchens, their set-up, with really efficient ways of chopping... was totally inspiring. I loved it. Which street food did you try first? A puri breakfast. I was initially sceptical... but you know what happens when you eat really good food. You lose the worry and suddenly the pleasure takes over. But how did you end up selling Calcutta street food in England? Before I came back to Calcutta six years ago, I had a shop, a girlfriend, a dog, and a cottage in Devon. Then the relationship ended, the shop I sold, my dog died and I decided to see where this project took me. Back in England, I started working at festivals, selling jhalmuri and doing a bit of catering.... But why jhalmuri? I used to watch a muriwala a lot in Calcutta, so when I was asked to make something from Calcutta in England, I thought I’d try that. I went to Southall, got a few tins, muri, sevand other things. It was a very odd version of jhalmuri... I started making it at a Friday market in Devon — a hippie market but also with lots of old people, conservative customers. Everyone, from the hippies to the conservatives, loved it. I continued simply because of their reaction! Rich, poor, Jamaicans, Africans, Chinese, English — the whole cross-section of society. When they see it being made, they’re like little babies with their eyes wide open, and when they taste it, they’re like ‘WOW!’ Never before have I seen that reaction for a dish. One is always adapting, just like with the muri. I’ve now got better sources for my ingredients — Wembley, Tooting, Southall, you learn where is good for what. I can chop very fast now, I have a little way of cutting a cucumber and a tomato and I know how to play the crowd. So you’re a performer too? Oh yes. Like all these guys [the street-food sellers of Calcutta]. They’re doing little shows. I’ve watched the customers — maybe they eat from the same man almost every day, but when it’s being made, they watch. Eating street food is a private but public experience. You’re on the level playing field of the streets, where everyone, if they’ve got a little money, can have it. That’s why Calcutta is so incredible. When you’re on the street, being bombarded with traffic, noise, people, and you put that food in your mouth, you are transported. You get re-energised, you’re given this boost and then off you go. I think that’s why Calcutta is special. It’s a hard city in many ways — the pollution, the traffic. But this? It’s affordable, good, fresh food. It doesn’t get much better than this! The taste of the food doesn’t have to correlate with the price — that’s the most extraordinary thing for me. What about your book and film? The book is a street-food guide for tourists but I want to re-do it. I’ve seen that you can adapt this style of cooking to anything... I want to see how you can adapt it to western cooking. As for the film, I came to Calcutta and filmed for a month. I had never used a camera before and knew nothing — I just filmed. Back in England, some filmmaker friends taught me how to edit. That’s how the film happened. I would like my film to be an interactive experience — sounds of Calcutta playing in the background and the film broken up into a day in Calcutta. So, start by passing cups of chai around, pause and put a spotlight on, for example, ghugni being made. Then pass that around, the film begins again and so on. You said Londoners were initially wary — has that changed? People are opening up. The whole street food thing in London is really taking off... it’s become a bit of a fad. So that’s good, although obviously a fad has its downside. Your favourite street food? I love batata puri. And chhatu — both in the solid form with onion and green chilli as well as the paste with water. I’ve just bought three packs, breakfast is sorted for ages! Tell us about a memorable reaction to your jhalmuri… There was this mela in Acton, a big affair — 20,000 people, mostly Indian. I was nervous because it was my first time selling to Indians. People started coming to me as soon as I arrived, asking: ‘What are you doing? Selling jhalmuri!’ There were three old ladies, tiny and grey-haired, who started singing and clapping as I went about making the muri. Suddenly there were hundreds of people around me, singing and clapping! It was amazing — I got choked up. The way people react is the main thing and when you see that happen, it’s very powerful. When you’re working in the kitchen of a restaurant, no matter how good the food is or how much you’re paid, you just don’t get to see that. When I look at my accounts, I don’t really make much, and I work very hard. It’s a labour of love, but you keep going... The food is so good, and that’s when you think you need to keep it going, somehow. Angus Denoon is the british chef who’s made our jhalmuri a London street snack   The Telegraph 23.10.13. Trust you are refreshed after Durga Puja,’ was the opening line of Angus Denoon’s email to t2. Denoon is as Calcuttan as any of us, and some. The British chef is a regular sight on London’s street corners making and selling jhalmuri, the Calcutta street snack he first tasted and fell in love with close to a decade ago. A t2 chat with London’s Jhalmuriwallah, as he likes to call himself... When did you first visit Calcutta? It was in 2004, I think. I came on via a stopover from Australia on my way back to the UK. I stopped at Calcutta so I could go to the mountains. I went to BBD Bag to buy my ticket and saw the sprawling street food stands there. I was cautious and ate chapatti andsabji and thought what a friendly and relaxed city it was — very different from what I had imagined. That night, I went to board my train from Sealdah and outside all the drummers were warming up for the night ahead, for it was the last night of Durga Puja. I had never heard of Durga Puja nor heard drummers like it. The spell had been cast. When did you first taste the city’s jhalmuri and how would you describe that experience? That first trip, I spent only one night in Calcutta, but the following year I returned on the same flight and this time I stayed. I have spent much of my life as a chef and since my first visit to India — Mysore in particular — I was taken with the street foodwallahs... not just the taste but the beauty of the hands and the theatre of the procedure... and had always thought of making a film on the subject. The night before I left the UK on my trip that would end up in Calcutta, I had a dream that now is the time to make the film and throughout the trip, I had pointers that this is what I should do. So when I arrived in Calcutta, I had the intention to make a pilot for the proposed series of street food around the world, although at the time I had no camera or had never made a film before. I also had no idea that I was walking into one of the greatest cooking shows on earth. So I spent a couple of weeks walking the streets and eating and watching and eating some more before heading to Nepal. It was there that I was told that a shop had the camera I had thought of buying. So I got it, returned to Calcutta, walked out on to the streets and pressed the red button. I knew nothing about the food and knew no one, so I just watched a lot. One stall that had a place to sit was a jhalmuri stall in front of the old Dunlop Building on the corner of Mirza Ghalib Street and Royd Street near Park Street. The guy was very beautiful to watch as he swirled around his set-up mixing and chopping and roasting... like a dance, and at the end, he produced a bag of mystery to me that tasted wonderful. It was light and fresh but substantial in its effect. I was sold. What made you decide to sell jhalmuri on the streets of London? I liked the versatility of the dish, the fact that it was so portable and you did not need a kitchen to get it ready. I have spent many, many hours in hot airless kitchens where you never see daylight, sunlight or the moonlight. Also, it is accessible to most people, no matter what their diets or religious beliefs are. What was the reaction when you walked out with your jhalmuri cart on the streets of London for the first time? From the very first time I served it to people, I realised this dish was something special, as everyone from all different sections of society, of all different ages and homelands seemed to like it very much. Often when I cooked before and did food different to what people are used to, they were not favourable in their reaction, but the jhalmuri crossed all barriers... and that is very rare and very special. When I started to serve Indian people, they were very very encouraging and supportive... even though at first I did not know what I was doing really. I learnt so much from them... as I still do now. How would you describe your jhalmuri cart and how has it evolved over the years? My van and cart continually evolve. They are always, though, made from bits of stuff that comes my way... from scrap yards, skips and all that. Like the way the muri I sell has evolved, things just seem to come and I just follow. I also sell ghugni chaat, phulchas, lassi, cha, dhokla and Gujarati dal. How is your jhalmuri different from the one we get here? When I first started, I kept it as authentic as possible to how I remembered it in Calcutta. But over time, it has evolved to meet the desires and wishes of the people over here. Now mine has less percentage of muri than in Calcutta and it has a tamarind sauce that I make with palm sugar. So, in a way, it is heading towards bhel. There is also more fresh stuff in there.... I like to put fresh ginger in there. When I am around Gujarati people, I do it like this and around the Bangladeshis like that. What’s the best compliment you’ve got for your jhalmuri? Once at an Indian mela in London, I had three Bengali grandmothers sing to me and my cart was surrounded by people... dancing and all happy! That was special. Is there any street food in Calcutta that you don’t particularly fancy? I can honestly say that on the streets of Calcutta, I have eaten some of the best food I have eaten anywhere — be it fancy Michelin-starred restaurants or five-star hotels. For weeks I have eaten pretty much exclusively from the street food stalls and I cannot think of anything I have not enjoyed. The standard is remarkable and there is much the western world could learn about how to feed a lot of people with tasty, fresh and nutritious food from how things are done in your city. Where does The Everybody Lovelove Jhal Muri Express go from here? To start it was sticky because people did not know what I was doing and the English can be quite shy until they have a drink. Also, I was not really sure of what I was doing and therefore not that confident and that in itself does not attract people. But over the years, my confidence grew and more people tasted it and once they taste, they always return and tell others. I would like to see more jhalmuriwallahs in the UK. We have a very big problem in the West with obesity and much of this is caused by people eating mass-produced snacks.Jhalmuri has a magic from how it is made to how it tastes... and we all need a little magic. QUICK FIVE BEST JHALMURI IN CALCUTTA The guy outside the Tata building (Centre) opposite the Maidan WOULD LOVE TO WHIP UP JHALMURI FOR Professor (Muhammad) Yunus, founder of the Grameen Bank BIGGEST FAN OF HIS JHALMURI i had a dog called Robbie and he loved it! ONE INGREDIENT HIS JHALMURI CAN’T DO WITHOUT Well, a Bengali would say mustard oil, but I have done versions with this and that and not this and that and as long as you have the muri anything is possible. I am looking at taking the principles of jhalmuri and using only British ingredients — spelt (hulled wheat) for muri, rhubarb for tamarind, apples, radishes, carrot seeds and flaxseed oil BEST NON-CALCUTTA STREET FOOD i have spent a few days in Mumbai and I did like the papad chaats they had on Juhu beach. Also outside the palace in Mysore, I had some cucumber chaat, I have never seen elsewhere. The chaat carts of Goa were wonderful with their versions of sev puri and paani puri. But for variety, quality and price, Calcutta is in a league of its own Priyanka Roy source : http://www.telegraphindia.com/1131023/jsp/t2/story_17481787.jsp#.U4wLYXKSwXM To know more log in to  streetfoodkolkata ,   www.indiainlondon.com ,  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2w2-WFamROc  https://www.youtube.com/user/uhrangus/featured mongodenoon.wordpress.com/ helengraves.co.uk , www.kerbfood.com

MADRID: Livin’la Vida Loca

source : http://moneylife.in/article/madrid-livinla-vida-loca/36617.html
Naveena Israni

If there’s one city on earth that knows how to ‘live the crazy life’, it’s Madrid. Naveena Israni explores the passion and vibes of this effervescent city

For years considered the ugly stepsister of beautiful Barcelona, Madrid has finally come into its own. It has emerged as the beating heart of Spain, a beguiling city that really knows how to live. The seat of the government and monarchy, Madrid has an old-world elegance that’s reflected everywhere—from the gardens, monuments and museums to medieval mansions and royal palaces. Despite being tied to tradition, the city is brimming with cutting-edge design, fine arts and sheer energy. Its gregarious nightlife is also legendary; the innumerable bars and nightclubs enhance the appeal of after-dark Madrid.No wonder, tourists can’t afford to give this city a miss.

Getting around Madrid is convenient and reasonably priced. The city sports one of the best public transportation networks in the world and the second-largest metro system in Europe. Buses and subways form an integrated network. A single ride costs €1.50 / €2, while a 10-ride ticket costs €12.20 / €18.30 (depending on the zone). To save cost, buy a 10-ride Metro-bus ticket that is valid on both metro and bus. You can also buy an unlimited travel pass for one, two, three, five or seven days.

The best sightseeing option is Madrid ‘Hop-On Hop-Off-City-Tour’ bus. It operates on two separate routes, but a single ticket is valid on both routes. The tour costs €21 for one day and €25 for two days. If you’re planning to spend more than a day touring the city, buy themoney-saving Madrid card that provides free entry to over 50 museums and a variety of attractions.

If you don’t want to travel by public transport, flag down taxis that are plentiful and not too expensive. Most taxi-drivers don’t speak English, so make sure to carry your destination address written in Spanish or your hotel’s business card. It would help to know a few Spanish words to indicate directions and street numbers. Renting a car isn’t recommended, since parking is a nightmare. This makes sense only if you’re planning day-trips to nearby towns.

Though Madrid is considered the most expensive city in Spain, it’s cheaper for travellersthan major world capitals like Paris, London or New York. You can change cash or traveller’s cheques at any bank or exchange bureau. Get your cheques in large denominations to save on per-cheque commission charges. Exchange bureaux have longer hours than those of banks, but worse rates and steeper commissions. Most major credit cards are accepted throughout Spain.

Tourists should watch out for value-added tax, known as impuesto sobre el valor añadido (IVA). Hotels and restaurants charge IVA at 7%; on retail goods, it’s 16%. Visitors are entitled to a refund of the 16% IVA on purchases above €90.16 from any shop. Just ask the shop for a cash-back refund form and present it at the customs booth for reimbursement when you depart from Spain.

Once you’ve figured out your mode of transport and payment, begin exploring the city’s raw, infectious energy. Few cities have an artistic pedigree as rich as Madrid’s.Masterpieces by Spanish talents such as Goya, Velázquez, El Greco,Picasso, Dalí and Miró, apart from a plethora of Flemish/Dutch (Rubens, Van Dyck, Rembrandt, Van Gogh, Bosch), Italian (Botticelli, Raphael, Caravaggio), French (Monet, Renoir, Degas) and German (Dürer, Cranach, Grien) artists adorn the city’s world-class galleries.

First-time tourists must visit the ‘golden triangle’ of museums—Museo Nacional del Prado, one of the finest art museums in the world having the best collection of classical art in Madrid; Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, housing one of the most extraordinary private collections of European art in the world from the 13th century to the present day; and Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía, which has a stunning collection of Spanish modern art starting from the 20th century. However, these museums are vast, so don’t visit them on the same day. Also, they offer free entry during certain times of the day, so take advantage of them on a lesser budget.

The Prado is a seemingly endless parade of over 7,000 priceless works that will seduce any art connoisseur. Though it’s impossible to see the entire collection, there are certain masterpieces you shouldn’t miss. Velázquez is the undisputed headliner of the Prado’s collection. His Las Meninas is to the Prado what Mona Lisa is to The Louvre in Paris. Also ranked among Madrid’s most emblematic paintings are Goya’s The Second of May, 1808 and The Third of May, 1808, portraying the anti-French revolt and execution of insurgents in Madrid. The museum timings are 10am-8pm (Monday to Saturday) and 10am-7pm (Sundays and public holidays). There’s free entry from 6pm-8pm (Monday to Saturday) and 5pm-7 pm (Sundays and public holidays). The entrance ticket costs €14 (general) and €23 (with visitor’s guide book). The Prado’s website offers timed-entry tickets that are cheaper than those bought over the counter.

At the Thyssen-Bornemisza (entry ticket €8), begin your visit on the second floor, home to medieval art, and make your way down to modern works on the ground level. Meanwhile, the Reina Sofía’s (entry ticket €8) biggest draw is Picasso’s masterpiece Guernica—his protest against the German bombing of the Basque town of Guernica in 1937. Another eye-catching architectural innovation in Madrid is the Caixa Forum, a private museum of contemporary art and culture that seems to hover above the ground. You can’t miss the jardín colgante (hanging garden), a vertical wall of greenery almost four-storey high.

Once you’ve had your fill of art and architecture, unwind at the glorious gardens of Parque del Buen Retiro. Interspersed with marble monuments, landscaped lawns and abundant greenery, it’s the perfect place for a stroll, boat ride or to nurse a cool drink. The focal point is the artificial lake, watched over by the massive Monument to King Alfonso XII. Retiro Park comes alive on weekends with street/theatre performers, live musicians, clowns, magic/puppet/dog shows, tarot card readers and hawkers.

Another place to chill out is Plaza Mayor, an elegant and bustling square. ConsideredMadrid’s architectural jewel, it transports you back to the 17th century. It’s surrounded on three sides by ochre-hued apartments. The only break in symmetry is the Real Casa de la Panadería (Royal Bakery), decorated with colourful frescoes. Ringed with souvenir shops, cafés and restaurants, the square is packed with people, day and night. Pull up a chair (at the outdoor tables) or laze upon the cobblestones to gaze at the Spanish street life buzzing through the plaza. Then wander around Los Austrias neighbourhood teeming with tapas bars and nightclubs. A noisier gathering place is Puerta del Sol, a plaza with neo-classical buildings which is considered the heart of Madrid and one of the busiest places in the city. Indulge in the various shopping and eating joints, but watch out for pickpockets. Another tourist attraction is Plaza de Cibeles that evokes the splendour of imperial Madrid. It houses the Fountain of Cibeles, which portrays the Roman goddess of fertility sitting upon a chariot pulled by two lions. Whenever Real Madrid football club wins a match, its fans come here to celebrate.

Another must-visit tourist spot is Palacio Real, one of the most emblematic and beautiful buildings in Madrid. This 18th-century royal palace is the official residence of the King of Spain, though the royal family doesn’t reside here. However, the palace is sometimes used for official ceremonies. Be prepared for a visual onslaught; the opulent interiors, architecture and artistic treasures will bombard your senses. Tour the elegant RoyalChambers, resplendent Banquet Hall, lavish Throne Room and extravagant Porcelain Room and see their exquisite tapestries, frescoes, artwork, carvings, china, silverware, etc. Also visit the Farmacia Real (Royal Pharmacy) that contains a formidable collection of medicine jars for mixing royal concoctions. Continue on to the Armería Real (Royal Armoury) which houses a hoard of medieval weapons and suits of armour. The palace timings during April-September are 9am-6pm (Monday to Saturday) and 9am-3pm (Sundays and public holidays); it closes one hour earlier from October-March. The entry ticket costs €10.

For football fanatics, a tour of Santiago Bernabeu (entry ticket €19), the home of Real Madrid, is not to be missed. Circumnavigate the towering stadium and field, sit in the players’ dug-out, visit the dressing rooms, Press Room and Real Madrid Museum, take a peek at the club’s trophies /jerseys/shoes or buy Real Madrid memorabilia from the club shop. You can even get morphed photos clicked with your favourite player and purchase them as souvenirs, though they are costly (large photo €17, small photo €12).

If you visit Madrid during the bull-fighting season (mid-May to October), head to Plaza de Toros Las Ventas to gain an insight into this Spanish tradition—filled with blood, courage, nobility and, sadly, cruelty. Las Ventas is one of the largest and most revered bullfighting rings in the world. Each bullfight stars three matadores and six bulls. Each matador leads a team of toreros, picadores and banderilleros. They aim to impress the crowd with daring moves which, ultimately, result in the bull being killed. Buy tickets in advance to bag good seats. Ticket prices range from €5 to €150.

Madrid also offers excellent shopping and entertainment opportunities. The smartest shopping district for tourists is Sol-Salamanca, home to El Corte Inglés (Spain’s largest department store); high-street names like Zara, H&M, Mango; and top designers like Chanel, Versace, Louis Vuitton, Armani, Adolfo Domínguez, Cartier, Prada, etc. The most avant-garde part of Madrid is Fuencarral Street, lined with restaurants, shops and night clubs. The main market here is Mercado de Fuencarral. Besides selling clothes, shoes, accessories and decorative items, it hosts cultural activities like disc jockey sessions, cinema and theatre performances. Gran Via is another busy avenue that’s good for shopping, Broadway-type musicals and flamenco performances. If you’re looking for bargain deals, shop at Alcalá Street. Or head to El Rastro, Madrid’s largest Sunday flea market selling clothes, leather goods, jewellery and handicrafts. But watch your wallet!

Once you’re done with sightseeing and shopping, it’s time to test Madrid’s reputation for culinary excellence. The city has embraced the innovation of Spain’s gastronomic revolution, while staying true to traditional Spanish cooking. Its residents love going out to eat and drink. Most bars and nightclubs stay open till 3am or 4am. The practice of stopping for tapas (small snack) and cana (draft beer) before dinner is an institution. The secret to enjoying a variety of tapas is to seek out the specialty of each bar, wash it down with a drink and move on to the next bar.

Madrid is also teeming with delis, cafés and gastro-bars with great food and a lively atmosphere. They range from simple and reasonable to elegant and pricey. Two people can dine well for €50 or €150—or a lot less if they opt for tapas. A 10% tip for a meal is considered generous, 5% is more the norm. Finally, no trip to Madrid is complete without sampling these must-have food items—Tortilla Española (Spanish omelette made of eggs, potatoes and onions), Paella (Spain’s national dish made of rice, seafood, meat and vegetables) and Churros (Spanish doughnuts).

After spending a few days here, you’ll realise that no city captures the Spanish soul as well as Madrid. Its architectural and artistic history provides a glorious backdrop to city life, while the exotic nature of bull-fights and flamenco lures tourists, time and again. So what are you waiting for? Pack your bags and head to Madrid to soak in some Spanish passion!

Essential Facts

When To Go
Spring and autumn are the best seasons to visit Madrid, especially April, May, June, September and October. Cultural and street festivals are held for most of May. It’s uncomfortably warm during July-August and bitterly cold in January-February. If you’re here for the art galleries and museums, avoid Mondays—when many are closed; the Reina Sofía is an exception, closing on Tuesdays.

Getting There
Air: Madrid Barajas International Airport is located 13km from the city centre. It’s one of the largest airports in Europe and serviced by many airlines from Europe and beyond. The biggest airlines flying to Madrid are: Emirates, British Airways and Lufthansa. There are no direct flights between India and Madrid.

Train: Renfe trains connect Madrid with destinations throughout Spain. Also, the Eurail connects Madrid with other European cities like Lisbon, Milan, Paris, etc. Madrid has two train stations—Chamartín and Atocha. Most northbound and international trains arrive and depart from Chamartín, while trains to Barcelona, Valencia and southern Spain depart from Atocha.

Where To Stay
Madrid has a large number of hotels. Staying in a luxury hotel can cost more than €200 a day; mid-range and semi-luxurious boutique hotels charge €100- €200, while budget hotels rarely cost over €60. Advance reservation is recommended. Retiro and Los Austrias are upmarket areas housing luxury hotels, while Sol and Gran Vía are best for mid-range accommodation. Malasaña and Chueca offer good budget pensiones (guest houses), while Huertas and Santa Anaareas have cheap pensiones and boutique hotels.