Arcadia in Armenia

 Date                      Night Stay

Oct 30                    

CCU>Dubai

EMIRATES EK-573

Kolkata CCU 20:20 hrs Wed, 30 Oct Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose International Airport 5h 25m Dubai 00:15 hrs DXB Thu, 31 Oct Dubai International Terminal 3

Oct 31                 

Dubai > Yerevan 

Departure from Dubai (Flight FZ 717)
31 October 2024, Thursday 31 October 2024, Thursday
08:05   Dubai (DXB) 03h 30 min Non-stop   11:35 Yerevan (EVN)
Dubai International Airport, Yerevan Airport Terminal 2

City tour in Yerevan :  Matenadaran >Parajanov museum > St. Sargis Vicarial Church > Blue Mosque > Republic Square > Hotel

MANSION HOTEL YEREVAN /Santa Villa Yerevan.  (31.10-1.11)

Address: 77 Hovsep Emin d/street, 0011 Yerevan

Nov 1   

Yerevan>Khor Virap> Areni winery> Bird’s cave> Shaki waterfall>Qarahunge>Goris                                    

Goris - Andranik B&B  (1.11-2.11) 

Address: Orbeliannery street 23, 0100 Goris, Armenia

GPS coordinates: N 039° 30.467, E 46° 20.693

Nov 2    

Wings of Tatev> Harsnadzor watchtower> Devil’s bridge >Tatev> Tatev’s watchtower > Jermuk Hot Water Gallery> Jermuk waterfall /Mermaid’s Hair >Noravank>Yerevan                                                 

               MANSION HOTEL YEREVAN

Address: 77 Hovsep Emin d/street, 0011 Yerevan, Armenia

Nov 3    

Yerevan> Gyumri Museum of National Architecture and Urban Life>Gyumri city tour> Black Fortress>Marmashen monastery> Yerevan    

                MANSION HOTEL YEREVAN

Address: 77 Hovsep Emin d/street, 0011 Yerevan

Nov 4     

Yerevan > Garni > Geghard > Symphony of Stones > lavash baking > Vernissage> Republic Square>Northern Avenue > Opera House > Cascade > Yerevan                                            

               MANSION HOTEL YEREVAN

Address: 77 Hovsep Emin d/street, 0011 Yerevan, Armenia

Nov 5 

Yerevan  >Alphabet Memorial>Yazidi temple>Sanahin monastery >Mendz Er cave >Zarni-Parni cave> Haghpat monastery>Molokan Village>Dilijan

                                   

Dilijan-  Ariana Family Hotel (5.11-6.11)

 Address: 33 Kamo Street, 3904 Dilijan,  Armenia Phone: +374 91 519890,  GPS coordinates: N 040° 43.454, E 44° 51.831

Nov 6   

Yerevan > Lake Sevan > Sevanavank > Haghartsin> Goshavank> Lake  Parz >  Dilijan                            

              MANSION HOTEL YEREVAN

Address: 77 Hovsep Emin d/street, 0011 Yerevan, Armenia

Nov 7    

Gum market> Holy Ejmiatsin> St. Hripsime> St. Gayane>Zvartnots>Tsitsernakaberd >Genocide   Museum                  

              MANSION HOTEL YEREVAN

Address: 77 Hovsep Emin d/street, 0011 Yerevan, Armenia

Nov 8     Yerevan >Dubai>Gold Souk>Burj Al Arab>Home

Nov 9     Dubai>Abu Dhabi Louvre >Qaṣr Al-Waṭan >Sheikh Zayed Grand                                            Mosque>Temple>Dubai Mall>Burj Khalifa>Home

Nov 10    Dubai>>Ibn Battuta Mall >Burjuman>Dubai Airport (T1)

Nov 11    Dubai Airport (T1)>CCU

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Know Armenia

2400 BC: The Book of Genesis identifies the land of Ararat as the resting place of Noah's Ark. 

2300 BC: Armenian nation created in Ararat. 

1200 BC: Nairi tribes in highlands (Van /Hakkari provinces of current Turkey). 

860 BC: Kingdom of Urartu (Argishti I, was the sixth known king of Urartu, reigning from 786 BC to 764 BC. Yerevan is one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world - 29 years older than Rome. Yerevan was founded in 782 BC by Urartian King Argishti I, who named it Erebuni, though the territory had been settled and was in use since the 4th century BC.)

782 BC: Fortress of Erebuni constructed.

512 BC: Annexed to Persia. 

331 BC: Alexander the Great attacks Persia, but doesn’t conquer Armenia à independence from Persia gained. 

190 BC: Artaxiad Dynasty. 

83 BC: Conquest of Syria, Phoenicia, and Cilicia. 

66 BC: Pompey invades Armenia, but returns to Rome after money is offered by Armenian Tigranes the Great. 

1 AD: Arsacid Dynasty. 

58: Roman invasion. 

301: Armenia 1st Christian state in the world (by King Tiridates III). Division into West-East between Sassanid Persians and Roman Byzantines (Peace of Acisilene). 

405: Armenian alphabet invented. 

Vassal lords and princes (428–884)

428: Part of Sassanid Empire. 

639: 1st Arab invasion. 

650: Khazar-Arab Wars & Byzantine-Arab Wars. 

628–884 : Presiding princes of Armenia - 

In the sixth century, the Byzantine Empire established the position of presiding prince of Armenia  This office was created in an attempt to legitimize a local vassal leader with Byzantine backing and counteract Sasanian efforts in the region. During later centuries, the princes often wavered in allegiance between Byzantium and the Islamic Caliphates, who competed over influence in the region.

Ashot V Bagratuni, who served as the last presiding prince of Armenia 856–884 and later reigned as King of Armenia (as Ashot I) 884–890

884-1045 Bagratuni dynasty  - After more than four centuries of dormancy, the Armenian kingdom was restored under the Bagratuni dynasty. The Abbasid caliphs were prominent supporters of the Bagratuni princes gaining power over other Armenian nobles, due to fears of Byzantine influence in the region.

(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Armenian_monarchs)

1016: Seljuk Turks à become dominant in Anatolia. 

1045: Armenia falls to Byzantine troops à Armenian exodus. Conqueror Timur from Timurid Empire invades Armenia, Georgia & Anatolia: slaughter / enslavement. 

1502: Safavid Dynasty of Persia conquers Armenia. 

1514: Ottoman- Persian Wars

1532: Ottoman- Safavid Wars. 

1555: Peace of Amasya 

1639: Treaty of Zuhab: Western Armenia under Ottoman rule. 

1813: Treaty of Gulistan: Eastern Armenia under Persian rule, Karabakh part of Russian Empire. 1826-1828: Russo-Persian War Eastern Armenia to Russia. 

1894-96: Hamidian Massacres; an estimated 80,000–300,000 Armenians are killed by Ottomans. 

1909: Adana Massacre: 15000-30000 Armenians killed by Ottomans. 

WWI: Armenian Genocide by the Ottoman Empire (still denied by Turkey)  between 600,000-2.5mln Armenians murdered or sent on death marches to present-day Syria. Motivations: Christianity & suspicion of pro-Russian sympathies. 

1916-18: Armenian regions of Ottoman Empire fall to Russia / Soviet Union. 

1918: The Treaty of Brest-Litovsk gives Armenian Kars, Ardahan and Batum regions to the Ottoman Empire. Independent Armenia. 

1920: Invasion by Turkey & Bolshevik Russia. 

1922: Armenia incorporated into USSR. 

1988: Armenians begin to campaign for Nagorno-Karabakh (NK), a region with a predominantly Armenian population in Azerbaijan, to be united with Armenia. Earthquake kills 25,000. 

1989: NK begins à many Azeri citizens are forced to flee their homes. 

1990: Nationalists win elections à Independence Armenia declared, but ignored by Russia. 

1991: Joins Commonwealth of Independent States (successor to Soviet Union). 

1992: Joins UN. Trade + energy embargo imposed by Azerbaijan. 

1994: Demonstrations over food+ energy shortages à Russian-brokered ceasefire ends NK fighting. Self-proclaimed republic: Armenian forces in control of Azerbaijani territory. 

1999: Prime minister + 6 officials killed in parliament. 

2001: Council of Europe member.

2007: Parliament allows dual citizenship: naturalisation of Armenia's massive foreign diaspora (8mnl people). 

2014: Tensions rise over NK again. 

2015: Eurasian Union. Gyumri massacre (Armenians killed by Russians). 

2016: NK clashes. 

2020: NK War à recognized as part of Azerbaijan.

LP writes: "Few nations have histories as ancient, complex and laced with tragedy as Armenia. And even fewer have a culture that is as rich and resilient. This is a destination where you will be intrigued by history, awed by monuments, amazed by the landscape and charmed by down-to-earth locals."

With a recorded history of more than 3,500 years, Armenia is home to one of the world’s oldest civilisations. The oldest known ancestors of modern Armenians are the Hayasa-Azzi, an indigenous tribe which settled in the lands around Mount Ararat and parts of modern-day Turkey. The country’s original name is Hayastan (“-stan” is a Persian suffix which means land), and Armenians call themselves the Hay people.

The Hayasa-Azzi mixed with other local tribes, which would eventually lead to the founding of the Kingdom of Urartu (Assyrian for “Ararat”) in the 9th Century BC, composed of the smaller kingdoms across Armenia, eastern Turkey, and northwestern Iran. In 8th Century BC, the Urartian king Argishti I founded the city of Erebuni, today known as Yerevan and Armenia’s capital.

In 301 AD, Armenia adopted Christianity as its official religion. At that time, the population of Armenia reached about 4 million. As of 2011, 97% of the local Armenians are members of the Armenian Apostolic Church, which is one of the oldest Christian churches. Several authors have cited the Etchmiadzin Cathedral (Armenia's mother church) as the oldest cathedral In the world.

In 405 AD, the Armenian alphabet was invented by Masrup Mashtos, an Armenian scientist and priest. The script originally had 36 letters but now has 39. It stabilized and formalized Armenian speech, and facilitated the cultural and spiritual stability of the Armenian nation and church.

Our 1st stop was The Materanadaran or the old manuscript museum at Yerevan. The পুঁথি or 'pnuthi'-s inside were exquisite!

(Source: Odyssey Traveller, LP and many other sites from the net)

Here are some more interesting facts about Armenia.

9 Armenian Dram = 2 INR (1 INR = 4.5 AMD)

Area = 30,000 Sq Km i.e. 1/3 rd of West Bengal

Population = 30 Lakh i.e. 1/32 nd of West Bengal

GDP per capita = 8500 USD i.e. 3 times India

Armenia  = GMT + 4 hrs (India GMT + 5.30 Hrs)

♡ Chess is a compulsory subject in schools and there are even exams for it.

♡ It was the first country to have adopted Christianity as its state religion

♡ It is one of the only mono ethnic countries in the world - 97% of the residents are Armenians and the remaining is made up of ethnic minorities like the Yazidis, Russians, Ukranians, Kurds etc.

♡ An estimated 1.5 million were killed during the Genocide - the mass killings of Armenians that began under Ottoman rule in 1915.

♡ The entire country worships Mt Ararat which is also the national symbol of Armenia; unfortunately the mountain lies in Turkey now.

♡ The apricot is one of the symbols of Armenia - the orange colour in the flag actually symbolises the apricot!

♡ There is NO discrimination between tourists and locals in Armenia - all attractions are priced the same (1000-1500 drams) for locals and tourists

♡ It's free entry to all the churches in Armenia - only certain attractions like the Garni Temple requires a small fee for the entrance ticket.

♡ It is one of the oldest wine producing countries in the world.

Armenians in Dhaka

According to Ahmad Hasan Dani (author of the Dacca: a record of its changing fortunes), Armenians settled and founded a colony at Dacca in the early part of the 18th century at Tejgaon. He identifies the time based on some graves of Armenian individuals who died between 1714 and 1795 which can be found in the Portuguese church of Tejgaon. 

On the contrary, Anne Basil, author of Armenian Settlements states that the first Armenian traders of Dhaka are reported to have reached the city in 1613. A letter from the company in London to Bombay in 1689 asks the English to help the Armenians while procuring clothes, raw silk and other fine goods from Bengal since the community had a better trade network, capital, logistics and connections not only in Bengal. It is said that they settled in Saidabad (a locality in the vicinity of Murshidabad in present day West Bengal) after getting permission (firman) from emperor Aurangzeb in 1665 and also built a church there. There is a grave of a lady in the Armenian church in Kolkata (established in 1724) bearing the date 1630. So, it can be said that even if they had not settled in Dhaka in the seventeenth century, they certainly had a business and trade network in this part of Bengal from that time.

The Armenians settled in present day Armanitola—the name of the locality still bearing reminiscences of their presence. They were at first a small community but were unmatched in textile trading, and in some cases had monopoly in the saltpetre, betel nut, opium and salt trades. According to John Taylor (who was the Commercial Resident of Dhaka in 1800), in 1747, Armenians were the largest exporters of cloth from Dhaka, far ahead of English, Dutch or French. With their profits and huge resources, they became very influential and rich; their affluence resulted in the construction of a church of their own and other private mansions.

কলকাতার আর্মেনিয়ান  

গঙ্গাতীরের প্রাচীন কলকাতায় তাঁরা এসেছিলেন, বসতি করেছিলেন। বৃটিশ, পর্তুগিজ, স্কট, ইহুদি এবং পার্শিদের পাশাপাশি এসেছিলেন ‘আর্মেনিয়ান’রা। তাঁরা সৃষ্টি করেছিলেন অসাধারণ কিছু সৌধ, যা আজও আছে। পৃথিবীর অন্য যে কোন দেশ হলে এই সৌধগুলি হত সহরের অন্যতম ‘ট্যুরিষ্ট এ্যট্রাকশান’। কিন্তু বাঙালী ‘আত্মবিস্মৃত জাতি’, অতএব আমরা এ’গুলির কথা ভুলে গিয়েছি।

আলেকজান্ডারের সেনাবাহিনীর সাথে আর্মেনিয়ানরা প্রথম আসেন ভারতবর্ষে। জেনোফোন’এর (Xenophon, খৃষ্টপূর্ব ৪৩০-৩৫৫) লেখা থেকে আমরা তা জানতে পারি। কাজেই ভারতে আসার রাস্তা এবং ভারত সম্পর্কে একটা ধারনা ছিল আর্মেনিয়ানদের।

ষোড়শ এবং সপ্তদশ শতাব্দীতে আরমেনিয়ানরা তুরুস্ক এবং ইরান থেকে নানা দিকে ছড়িয়ে পড়েন। তাঁরা যান ইউরোপের দিকে। তাঁরা আসেন আমাদের ভারতবর্ষেও। আগ্রা, দিল্লী, তামিলনাডু, মুম্বাই, লক্ষ্ণৌ এবং চুঁচুড়া, চন্দননগর ও কলকাতাতেও তাঁরা বসতি স্থাপন করেন। বেশীর ভাগ আর্মেনিয়ানরা, যাঁরা কলকাতায় এসেছিলেন, তাঁদের আদি বাড়ী ছিল পারশ্য দেশের Isfahan , সিরাজ এবং নিউ জুলফা অঞ্চলে।

আর্মেনিয়ানদের সাথে ভারতের বাণিজ্যিক সম্পর্ক ছিলই। ৭ম শতাব্দীতে কেরালার মালাবার অঞ্চলে তাঁরা বসতি করেন। সেই সময় তাঁদের নেতা ছিলেন থমাস কানা (Thomas Cana)। তারপর তাঁরা ছড়িয়ে পড়েন ভারতের বিভিন্ন অঞ্চলে।  প্রথম দিকে আর্মেনিয়ানরা ভারতবর্ষে এসেছিলেন ব্যবসার উদ্দেশ্যে। তারপর একটা সময় আসে যখন রাজনৈতিক এবং সামাজিক কারনে তাঁরা মাতৃভূমি ত্যাগ করতে বাধ্য হন। ভারতবর্ষ হয়ে ওঠে তাঁদের দ্বিতীয় স্বদেশ। ১৯১৫ খৃষ্টাব্দে Turkey তে জাতি হিংসার বলি হন প্রায় ১,৫০০,০০০ আর্মেনিয়ান। আর্মেনিয়ানরা সেই স্মৃতিতে ১৯৬৫ খৃষ্টাব্দে কলকাতায় স্থাপন করেন এক স্মৃতি-স্তম্ভ (চিত্র ১)। এই সময়ে প্রাণ বাঁচাতে প্রায় ২০০০ আর্মেনিয়ান ভারতে, বিশেষত কলকাতায় আসেন। এই শেষ বারের মত দলবদ্ধ ভাবে আর্মেনিয়ানদের ভারতে আসা।

আর্মেনিয়ানরা কলকাতায় এসেছিলেন বৃটিশদেরও আগে। প্রমানও রয়ে গিয়েছে তার। কলকাতায় হোলী চার্চ অব নাজারেথ চার্চ (চিত্র ২-৫) রয়েছে ২ নং আর্মেনিয়ান স্ট্রীট ঠিকানায়। মার্কিন ইতিহাসবিদ মেশ্রোভ জেকব সেঠ (Mesrovb Jacob Seth) ১৮৮৪ সালে কলকাতার আর্মেনিয়ান কবরখানায় আবিস্কার করেন শ্রীমতি রেজাবীবেহ সুকিয়াস’এর (Rezabebeh Sookias) কবর। এই কবরখানাতেই ২১শে জুলাই ১৬৩০ সাল থেকে শেষ শয্যায় শুয়ে আছেন আর্মেনিয়ান বণিক সুকিয়াসের স্ত্রী, শ্রীমতি রেজাবীদেহ সুকিয়াস। এঁর কবরটিই হচ্ছে কলকাতায় খৃষ্টানদের প্রাচীনতম কবর (চিত্র ৬)। ইংরেজ জোব চার্ণক এসেছিলেন ১৬৯০, অর্থাৎ এই কবরটি তারও আগের। এতে প্রমান হয় যে আরমেনিয়ানরা এসেছিলেন ইংরেজদেরও আগে। সুকিয়াস’রা আগে সম্ভবত হাওড়া বা সুতনুটিতে বাগানবাড়ীতে থাকতেন। বাড়ীটি সম্ভবত ১৮শ শতকের আগেও ছিল। বিভিন্ন দলিল, দস্তাবেজ, গির্জার রেকর্ড, কবর, ইত্যাদি প্রমাণ করে যে আর্মেনিয়ানরা ষোড়শ শতকেও এখানে বসবাস করতেন।

ইস্ট ইন্ডিয়া কোম্পানির (East India Company) সঙ্গে ১৬৮৮ সালে একটি চুক্তি হয় । চুক্তিতে সাক্ষর করেন আর্মেনিয়ান বনিকদের নেতা  খোজা (খোজা অর্থ Sir) ফানুস কালান্তর (Khojah Phanoos Kalantar) এবং কোম্পানী অব মার্চেন্টস, লন্ডন (Company of Merchants, London) । এর পরপরই অনেক আর্মেনিয়ান কলকাতায় বসতি স্থাপন করা শুরু করেন। 

খোজা ইসরায়েল শারাদ (Khojah Israel Sarhad) ছিলেন একাধারে বনিক এবং কুটনীতিবিদ। ১৬৯৮ সালে এঁরই সহায়তায় বৃটিশ ইষ্ট ইন্ডিয়া কোম্পানী মাত্র ১৬০০০ হাজার টাকায় তিনটি গ্রামের স্বত্ব নিতে পারেন।

আবারও এই আর্মেনিয়ান ভদ্রলোকটির সহায়তাতেই ইংরেজরা মুঘল সম্রাট ফারুখশিয়ারের কাছ থেকে অনুমতি পান দিল্লীতে একটি এম্বাসি খোলার। এবং তারও পরে ১৭১৭ সালে এঁরই সহায়তায় মুঘল দরবার থেকে পান ‘গ্রান্ড ফরমান’। শোনা যায়, ঔরঙ্গজেব নাকি খুবই তুষ্ট ছিলেন আর্মেনিয়ানদের প্রতি। মুর্শিদাবাদের (Murshidabad) কাছে সৈয়দাবাদে বসবাসের ছাড়পত্র মিলেছিল আর্মানিদের। শুধু তাই নয়, মুঘল সম্রাট তাদের বাণিজ্য বাবদ খাজনা ৫% থেকে কমিয়ে করেছিলেন ৩.৫%। আকবরের রাজসভায় আর্মেনীয় পণ্ডিত যেমন ছিল, আর্মেনীয় উপপত্নীও ছিল। মুঘল সম্রাট আকবরের খ্রিস্টান স্ত্রী সম্ভবত আর্মেনীয় বংশোদ্ভূত ছিলেন।

যার ফলে ফরাসী এবং ডাচদের থেকে ইংরেজরা অনেকটাই এগিয়ে যেতে পারেন। বৃটিশ জাতি তাদের কৃতজ্ঞতা বোধের জন্য বিখ্যাত (!)। ব্যবসা বানিজ্যে খানিকটা এগিয়ে যেতেই তারা আর্মানিয়ানদের ব্যবসা থেকে বিতারন শুরু করেন।

১৭৫৭য় নবাব সিরাজদ্দৌল্লার সঙ্গে ইস্ট ইন্ডিয়া কোম্পানির লর্ড ক্লাইভের আলোচনায় মধ্যস্থ হিসেবে আর্মেনিয়ান ব্যাবসায়ী খোজা পেট্রুস অ্যারাটুনের (Khoja Petrus Aratoon) নির্বাচন।

পরবর্তীকালে কলকাতার তদানীন্তন সুপ্রিম কোর্টে জর্জ অ্যাভিয়েট (George Aviett) নামক আর্মানিসাহেব অনুবাদকের কাজ করেছেন বহুবছর ধরে। তিনি বেঁচেছিলেন ৮০ বছর। জন্ম ১৭৯১-এ। কলকাতায় ১৮৭১ পর্যন্ত দীর্ঘ জীবন কাটিয়েছেন। জানা দরকার অনুবাদক দু-রকমের। মৌখিক অনুবাদককে বলে Interpreter আর লিখিত বয়ানের অনুবাদককে বলে Translator। জর্জ অ্যাভিয়েট দু’রকম কাজই করেছেন। তাঁর সমাধি আছে বড়বাজারের ব্র্যাবোর্ন রোডের আর্মানি গির্জায় (Holy Nazareth Armenian Church)।

বস্তুত ‘কার্পেট’ শব্দটিই এসেছে আর্মেনিয়ান ভাষা থেকে ওল্ড ফ্রেঞ্চ হয়ে। সুতানুটির সুতোর নুটি ও কাটনা-কাটানোর পেছনে স্বাভাবিক তাঁতি বা natural weaver আর্মেনীয়দের ভূমিকা থাকা খুবই সম্ভবপর। তাই বয়নশিল্প বাংলার নিজস্ব শিল্প না আর্মেনীয়দের হাত ধরে এখানে এসেছিল তা গবেষণার ব্যাপার। বাঙালি শেঠ-বসাকরা মূলত ব্যবসায়ী। তাদের মধ্যে তাঁতবিদ্যা বা বয়নশিল্প থাকার সম্ভাবনা কম। মসলিন, ব্লুস্কার্ফ-এর মত সূক্ষ্ণ কর্ম তাদের নিজেদের পক্ষে করা সম্ভব নয় বলে কাটনাকাটানো মহিলাদের দিয়ে সেই কাজ করিয়ে নিতেন বলে অনেকের বিশ্বাস। অপরপক্ষে আর্মেনীয়রা যেহেতু স্বাভাবিক তাঁতী, তাদের পক্ষে এই সূক্ষ্ণ কারুকার্যময় নকশা করা সম্ভব......আর্মেনীয় ভাসাক-সেথরাই কালক্রমে বসাক-শেঠ হিসেবে চিহ্নিত হতে পারেন।

বৃটিশরা ভারত ছাড়ার সময়ে অধিকাংশ আর্মেনিয়ানরা কলকাতা ছেড়ে চলে যান। তারপর ১৯৯১ সালে রিপাব্লিক অব আর্মেনিয়া দেশ স্থাপিত হওয়ার পর বাকি আর্মেনিয়ানরা তাঁদের স্বদেশে ফিরে যান। হাতে গোনা কয়েকজন মাত্র রয়ে যান কলকাতায়।

কলকাতার আর্মেনিয়ানদের কয়েকটি সৃষ্টির সাথে পরিচিত হওয়া যাক।

(১) গঙ্গার ধারে আর্মেনিয়ান ঘাটের নাম আমরা সবাই জানি। মানভেল হাজার মালিয়া (Manvel Hazaar Maliyan) ১৭৪৩ সালে এই ঘাট তৈরী করেন। এঁকে তৎকালিন সমাজ সম্বোধন করত ‘হুজুরিমল’ নামে। বিদেশে ব্যবসা-বানিজ্যের সুবিধার জন্যই এই ঘাট তৈরী করা হয়। ১৮৫৪-৭৪ সালে এই ঘাটেই ছিল ইস্টার্ন রেলওয়েজের টিকিট বুকিং কাউন্টার। যাত্রীরা এখান থেকেই টিকিট কেটে তারপর রেলওয়ের লঞ্চে চেপে হাওড়া স্টেশানে যেতেন। হাওড়া ব্রীজ (রবীন্দ্র সেতু) নির্মানের পর এই প্রথা বন্ধ হয়ে যায়। যাত্রীদের সুবিধার জন্য এই সময়ে শিয়ালদহ থেকে আর্মেনিয়ান ঘাট পর্যন্ত নিয়মিত চলত ঘোড়ায় টানা ট্রাম গাড়ী ১৮৭৩ থেকে। এই ঘাটের পাশ থেকে স্টিমার ছেড়ে, পৌঁছে দিত তমলুক কোলাঘাট ঘাটাল (Ghatal)। এখন অবশ্য সেসবের চিহ্ন নেই।

(২) পার্ক ম্যানসান, পার্ক স্ট্রীট, কলকাতা: এই বাড়ীটির নির্মাতা ছিলেন টি এম থাড্ডিয়াস (TM Thaddeus)।

(৩) কলকাতার কুইনস ম্যানসান, হ্যারিংটন ম্যানসান, নিজাম প্যালেস বাড়ীগুলির নির্মাতা ছিলেন জোহানেস গালস্টাউন (Johannes Galstaun)।

(৪) গ্র্যান্ড হোটেল, চৌরঙ্গী রোডের উপরে এই পাঁচতারা হোটেলের বাড়ীটি নির্মান করেছিলেন আরাথুন স্টেফান (Arrathoon Stephan)।

(৪.১) স্টিফেন কোর্ট এবং অ্যাস্টর, লিটন, কেনিলওয়ার্থ প্রভৃতি হোটেল তাদের দ্বারাই নির্মিত।

(৫) সেন্ট গ্রেগরিজ চ্যাপেল (St Gregory the Illuminator Armenian Church of Kolkata): ৪১বি, নর্থ রেঞ্জ, পার্ক সার্কাস, কলকাতা ৭০০ ০৭১। ১৯০৬ সালে নির্মান করা হয়। এইটিই কলকাতায় আর্মেনিয়ানদের নির্মিত শেষ গির্জা। এই গির্জার কাছেই রয়েছে আর্মেনিয়ান বরিষ্ঠ নাগরিকদের জন্য স্যার পল চ্যাটার হোম।

(৬) চ্যাপেল অফ দ্য হোলি ট্রিনিটি (Chapel of the Holy Trinity): ২নং ট্যাংরা রোড, কলকাতা ৭০০ ০৪৬। ১৮৬৭ সালে নির্মান করা হয়। পাশের কবরখানার সবচেয়ে প্রাচীন কবরটি হল শ্রী সি জি বিজন’এর (C.G. Bijohn)। এঁর মৃত্যু হয় ১৯শে মার্চ, ১৮৬৭ তারিখে।

(৭) সেন্ট জন দ্য ব্যাপটিস্ট আর্মেনিয়ান চার্চ অফ চুঁচুড়া (St John the Baptist Armenian Church of Chinsurah (1695): ৪/৪ আর্মানিটোলা, চুঁচুড়া, হুগলি। ১৬৯৫ সালে এর নির্মান করেন খোজা যোহান্নেস মারগার (Khojah Johannes Margar)। এর ঘন্টা-ঘর (belfry) নির্মান করেন শ্রীমতি সোফিয়া বাগরাম (Mrs. Sophia Bagram)।

(৮) আর্মেনিয়ান কলেজ (Armenian College and Philanthropic Academy): ৫৬ব, মির্জা গালিব স্ট্রীট, কলকাতা ৭০০ ০১৬। এই বিদ্যায়তনটি আগে ছিল ওল্ড চায়না বাজার স্ট্রীটে। ১৮৮৪ সালে এটি বর্তমান ঠিকানায় স্থানান্তরিত হয়। কলকাতা বিশ্ববিদ্যালয়ের রেকর্ড থেকে জানা যায় যে আর্মেনিয়ান কলেজের প্রথম ব্যাচের ছাত্ররা ম্যাট্রিকুলেশান পরীক্ষায় বসেন ১৮৭০ সালে।

(৯) আর্মেনিয়ান ক্লাব: ২১নং পার্ক স্ট্রীট, কলকাতা ৭০০ ০১৬।  ১৮৯০ সালে প্রতিষ্ঠিত এই ক্লাব। কলকাতার Mayo রোডে অবস্থিত আর্মেনিয়ান স্পোর্টস ক্লাবের সীমানা কলকাতা পার্সি ক্লাবের সঙ্গে মিশে গেছে। কলকাতায় বসবাসকারী আর্মেনিয়ানদের সামাজিক জীবনের অবিচ্ছেদ্য অংশ হিসেবে এই দুটি ক্লাব দীর্ঘদিন ধরে গুরুত্বপূর্ণ ভূমিকা পালন করেছে।

(১০) ডাভিডিয়ান গার্লস স্কুল (Davidian Girls School): ডেভিড এভেটিক ডাভিডিয়ান (David Avetic Davidian ) ১৯২২ সালে এই বিদ্যালয়টি স্থাপন করেন। পরে, ১৯৪৯ সালে নিজস্ব সাতন্ত্রতা বজায় রেখে এটি মিশে যায় আর্মেনিয়াম কলেজের সাথে।

(১১) সেটা ১৬৭৯ খ্রিস্টাব্দ। গার্ডেনরিচে Falcon নামে একটি জাহাজ নোঙর করেছে। জাহাজের ইংরেজ ক্যাপ্টেন স্ট্যাফোর্ড সাহেব পড়েছেন ভারি বেকায়দায়। তিনি এ অঞ্চলের ভাষা একেবারেই বোঝেন না। এই প্রথম কোনও জাহাজ গার্ডেনরিচ পর্যন্ত এসেছে ভাগীরথীর মোহানা দিয়ে। এর আগে সব জাহাজ উড়িষ্যার বালেশ্বর পর্যন্ত এসেছে। তো, সাহেব মাদ্রাজে শুনেছিলেন দোভাষীকে বলে ‘দুবাস’। তাই তিনি সুতানুটির ব্যবসায়ী শেঠ-বসাকদের কাছে খবর পাঠালেন, তাঁর একজন ‘দুবাস’ লাগবে। সপ্তগ্রামের পাট চুকিয়ে হাওড়ার বেতোড়ে কয়েক যুগ কাটিয়ে শেঠ ও বসাকরা তখন সুতানুটিতে হাটের পত্তন করেছেন। তাদের ব্যবসাবুদ্ধি তুখোড় হলে কী হয়, ভাষার মারপ্যাঁচ অতটা বুঝতেন না। দুবাস বলতে তাঁরা বুঝলেন ধোবি বা ধোপা তথা রজক। তাই রতন সরকার নামে এক ধোপাকে সাজিয়েগুছিয়ে হাতে তাঁদের তরফে কিছু উপঢৌকন দিয়ে পাঠালেন গার্ডেনরিচে নোঙর করা ফ্যাকন (Falcon) জাহাজে। শোনা যায় এই দুবাস পেয়ে ইংরেজরা এতটাই আহ্লাদিত হয়েছিল যে তোপধ্বনি করে তাঁকে স্বাগত জানায়। এই রতন সরকারের প্রত্যুৎপন্নমতিত্ব ছিল নাকি অসাধারণ। দুয়েকটি ইংরেজি শব্দ ছিল তাঁর ভাঁড়ারে। তা-ই অবলম্বন করে ঠেকে শিখে তিনি ইংরেজি ভাষায় তুখোড় হয়ে ওঠেন। পরবর্তীকালে তিনি ইংরেজ রাজত্বে কলকাতার অন্যতম ধনী লোক হয়ে ওঠেন। তাঁর নামে জোড়াসাঁকোয় রতন সরকার গার্ডেন স্ট্রিট আর কলুটোলায় রতু সরকার লেন নামে দুটি রাস্তা হয়।দীর্ঘকাল ধরে গবেষণা চালিয়ে দেখা গেছে এই রতন সরকার আসলে জাতে আর্মানি। তাঁর আসল নাম আরাতুন সিরকর (Arathoon Shircore )। লোকমুখে অপভ্রংশে হয়ে গেছে রতন সরকার বা রতু সরকার। আসলে ধোপা নয়, শেঠ-বসাকরা সজ্ঞানেই একজন দোভাষীকে পাঠিয়েছিল। কারণ সুতানুটির ওই অঞ্চলে থাকতো আর্মানি লোকজন। তারা দোভাষীর কাজ করত।

(১২) বস্তুত জোব চার্নকের সুতানুটির আহিরীটোলার কাছে রথতলা ঘাটে ১৬৯০-য়ে পদার্পণ করার অন্যতম কারণ সেখানে দোভাষীদের সহজলভ্যতা। আর্মানি দোভাষীরা বাস করত সেখানে। তারা নিজেদের ভাষা ছাড়াও ফারসি, আরবি, উর্দু, ইংরেজি, বাংলা ভাষায় দক্ষ ছিল। আহিরীটোলায় ছিল তাদের বাস। প্রচলিত ধারণা আভীর বা আহীর থেকে আহিরীটোলা। আভীর মানে গোয়ালা। কিন্তু আমার মনে হয়, হায়েরীটোলা থেকে এসেছে আহিরীটোলা। আর্মানিরা নিজেদের বলে হায়েরী (Hayeri)। নিজেদের দেশকে বলে হায়াস্তান। একজন আর্মানি ব্যক্তিকে হে (Hay) বলে। হায়েরীটোলা লোকমুখে অপভ্রংশে আহিরীটোলা হয়ে গেছে বলে আমার বিশ্বাস। আহিরীটোলার কাছেই শোভাবাজার। এই জায়গাটির নাম সুবাবাজার ছিল আগে। সুবা মানে খ্রিস্টান রাজকর্মচারী। যেমন সাহেবসুবা। তাই সুবাবাজারের বাসিন্দা ইংরেজ ছাড়া আর্মানিদেরও বোঝাত। আর্মানিরাও খ্রিস্টান। আর্মেনিয়াই পৃথিবীর প্রথম খ্রিস্টান রাজ্য। ৩০১ খ্রিস্টাব্দে তারা প্রশাসনিকস্তরে খ্রিস্টানধর্ম গ্রহণ করে।

(১৩)  রাস্তার নাম আছে বিখ্যাত আর্মানিদের নামে। মানিকতলা-বাদুড়বাগানের সুকিয়া স্ট্রিট, বড়বাজারের আর্মেনিয়ান স্ট্রিট, বউবাজারের হুজুরিমল ট্যাঙ্ক লেন (বর্তমানে নাম অন্য), কলুটোলার জ্যাকারিয়া স্ট্রিট (যদিও কেউ কেউ বলেন এটি নাখোদা মসজিদের প্রতিষ্ঠাতার নামে), বড়বাজারের সুকিয়াস লেন। উত্তর কলকাতার আহিরীটোলা, মধ্য কলকাতার আর্মানিটোলা, দক্ষিণ কলকাতার আর্মানিপাড়া, এইগুলি কলকাতার আর্মানি-অধ্যুষিত অঞ্চল (ছিল বা বর্তমানে আছে)।

(১৪) আর্মেনীয় ভাষায় ‘সুতানে’ মানে বাজারসমূহ। সুতানে থেকেই সুতানুটি বা সুতালুটি। হাওড়া নামের পেছনে সাধারণত হাওড় বা এঁদো জলাজমির কথা বলা হয়। আসলে এটা ছিল আর্মেনীয় তথা হায়েরদের জনপদ। ‘হায়েরা’ থেকেই হাওড়া। 

কৃতজ্ঞতা স্বীকার:  বছরের শেষ দিনে “পুরাণো কলকাতার গল্প” (ফেসবুক পরিষদ) আমাদের নিয়ে গিয়েছিলেন কলকাতার আর্মানী গির্জাতে (হোলী চার্চ অব নাজারেথ)। পরিষদের সাহায্য ছাড়া এই প্রতিবেদনটি লেখা সম্ভব ছিল না। 

## যখন বাজারে এক ভরি সোনার দাম ২০ টাকা তখন একটি গান গাইতে তিনি পারিশ্রমিক নিতেন ৩০০০ টাকা । দেশের প্রথম ‘সুপারস্টার’ গায়িকা,গানের শেষে,প্রত্যয়ের সিগনেচার কণ্ঠ "মাই নেম ইজ গওহর জান" ....গওহর জান ১৮৭৩ সালের ২৬ জুন আজমগড়ে ইলিন অ্যাঞ্জেলিনা ইয়োয়ার্ড নামে জন্মগ্রহণ করেন। তাঁর পরিবার ছিল আর্মেনীয় বংশোদ্ভূত। পিতা: উইলিয়াম রবার্ট ইয়োয়ার্ড (বা ইয়েরভান্ড), একজন আর্মেনীয় Engineer যিনি ব্রিটিশ রেলওয়েতে কাজ করতেন ভারতে।

মাতা: ভিক্টোরিয়া হেমিংস, সম্ভবত আর্মেনীয় বা মিশ্র আর্মেনীয়-ভারতীয় বংশোদ্ভূত ।

Here are the Armenian dishes which one should note, while visiting Armenia

1. Dolma : A traditional dish of grape or cabbage leaves stuffed with a mixture of minced meat, rice, and spices. Pronounced ‘tolma’ in Armenia, dolma is another dish you may recognise and think you know. Made from a mix of minced meat, onion, rice, and various spices, all wrapped up in a vine leaf, they are a staple across the eastern Mediterranean.

2. Ghapama -  A beloved dish from southern Armenia made by stuffing a scooped-out butternut pumpkin with rice and dried fruits.  A delicious moorish dish from southern Armenia, ghapama is so beloved throughout the country that it has its very own song – Hey Jan Ghapama – extolling its delicious taste and fragrance. We did not try this.

3.Khorovats - An Armenian barbecue that can be made with lamb, pork, beef, or chicken. Khorovats are the Armenian take on a kebab, an inescapable part of dining in the country. In restaurants and in truck stops, on street corners and in family homes, you’ll find charcoal manghals (grills) and a man turning skewers loaded with huge chunks of meat over an open flame.

4. Manti - A type of dumpling that is also found in Turkish, Central Asian, West Asian, South Caucasus, and Balkan cuisines. We had it in Turkey also. 

5. Lavash - A crucial dish in Armenian cuisine which is similar to Rumali Roti and part of UNESCO Intangible Heritage 

6. Kufta or Kyufta - Hearty meatballs made from finely chopped lamb . Every Middle Eastern country has their take on the classic kofta, but nothing comes close to the Armenian version. Like its near east cousins, minced meat is lightly spiced and mixed with crushed wheat and onions. They’re also rolled into a tapered spinning top shape. But instead of being grilled, Armenians cook them in a broth.

7. Ishkhan - Armenia may be a landlocked country, but it still boasts its fair share of fishes dishes. The most famous is Ishkhan, based on a particular type of trout found in Lake Sevan. The trout of Sevan are ‘meatier’ than most and, such was their fame, they were being exported across the region as early as the 15th century. We did not try this.

8. Harissa - A thick porridge made of wheat and meat that is considered the national dish of Armenia.We did not try this.

www.cntraveler.com

Ref:

(1) Roy, Samaren: ‘The Calcuttan’, Calcutta: Society & Change 1690-1990’, Rupa & Co

(2) Seth, Mesrovb Jacob: 'Armenians in India, from the Earliest times to the Present Day: A Work of Original Research', New Delhi, Oxford & IBH Publishing Co, 1983

(3) Silliman, Jael,: ‘Revisiting a sacred geography’, The Telegraph, Calcutta, 2nd June 2016

(4) MacLean, Gerald and Matar, Nabil: ‘Britain and the Islamic World, 1558-1713’ 

(5) Wikipedia

(6) https://www.bongodorshon.com/home/story_detail/history-of-armenian-ghat-in-kolkata

(7) https://www.indianarrative.com/india-news/armenians-in-kolkata-a-living-legacy-17969.html

(8) https://puronokolkata.com/2015/07/07/calcutta-armenians-calcutta-c1660/

(9) https://pagefournews.com/indigenous-armenians-of-calcutta-asit-das/ - অসিত দাস

(10) https://www.thedailystar.net/in-focus/armenians-dhaka-1543399

Oct 30– Night Halt Dubai Airport

I went to the airport directly from Office. I met Utpala-di and Ruma-di at the airport. The food was reasonably good. 

We took Emirates flight  at 2020  hrs from CCU and reached Dubai (T3) at 0015 hrs at Dubai. The return fare from CCU is quite high @ Rs 29,298 per head approx. The price has significantly gone up after covid. 

Oct 31 – Night Halt Yerevan

City tour in Yerevan : Matenadaran >Parajanov museum> Blue Mosque>Republic Square>Hotel

From T3 , we had to go T2, by free bus service provided by Emirates, to take Flydubai , which is a Low Cost Airlines of Emirates. But in reality it is anything but low cost. We paid around Rs 29,535 per head ( to go to Yerevan) for the return fare to Dubai. They allow only 7 Kg.Later , we had to pay extra for the luggage in Flydubai, before the date of journey. But it was reasonable. T2 is absolutely "Cattle class" ! You will see mainly labourers in Dubai, who avail this Low cost airlines. But you see nationalities of all the countries. We did multiple Dubai visa due to change of Terminal and re-entry in Dubai later. There was lot of confusion about the correct visa type. Now Dubai visa is to be done through VFS.

We were joined by Didi from Dubai & Soumya and Ketaki-di from Kolkata. Soumya and Ketaki di took Flydubai from Kolkata and came straight to T2. 

There is e-visa (link - https://evisa.mfa.am/ ) in Armenia. You also need to do Medical Insurance. My visa was 'declined' without assigning any reason. Take a letter from your Travel agent with phone number and name. On second application it was approved. I am not the only one whose visa was declined.

( Read this blog - আর্মেনিয়ায়  নয় দিন - জামাল ভড় : "জানতাম আর্মেনিয়া ও আজারবাইজানের দা-কুমড়ো সম্পর্ক । তাই আগেই আজারবাইজানের অনলাইনে ই-ভিসা করে নিই । তারপর জর্জিয়ার স্টিকার ভিসা । আর্মেনিয়া দু'বার ই-ভিসা রিজেক্ট করে । সম্ভাব্য কারণ আজারবাইজানের বাকু থেকে রিটার্ন ফ্লাইটের টিকিট দিয়েছিলাম ভেবে । তাই শেষমেশ প্রতারণার আশ্রয় নিলাম ডামি টিকিট সাবমিট করে । ব্যস্ ছ'দিনের মধ্যে ভিসা পেয়ে গেলাম । ভিসা পেয়েই ডামি টিকিট ক্যানসিল করি । আর তো নো চিন্তা । আটকায় কে তিন দেশে ভ্রমণের ।" )

In the morning, at 0805 hrs we left for Yerevan . They did not serve any food. We reached Yerevan at 1135 hrs. However of luggage of Rumadi, Utpaladi and me did not come. They goofed up while transferring luggage from Emirates to Flydubai. We informed the airport about the non arrival and they said it will come next day.

We did not exchange any local currency at the Yerevan airport. We were greeted by our local tour operator and did some local sightseeing directly from the airport and visited a couple of museums (Matenadaran  and Parajanov museum) , a church, Blue mosque and walked around Republic Square in Yerevan. We ended our evening by tasting a local delicacy called lahmajo. In the Levant, it is part of a series of foods collectively called Manakish - flatbreads with toppings. It is often referred to as Lebanese/Turkish/ Armenian pizza.

Yerevan is one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world - 29 years older than Rome. It was founded in 782 BC by Urartian King Argishti I, who named it Erebuni, though the territory had been settled and was in use since the 4th century BC. After World War I, Yerevan became the 12th capital of Armenia.

In November 1920, Yerevan became the capital of the Armenian Soviet Socialist Republic and transformed into a modern metropolis of more than 1 million people. Russian- born architect Alexander Tamanian rebuilt the city in a circular layout by demolishing many of the old buildings and replacing them with contemporary Soviet-style buildings made from the local pink stone.

The volcanic stone was abundant in the region and created a uniform and symmetric appearance that differed in shade from the grays seen in most Soviet cities. Ultimately the Soviet Union fell in 1991, and Yerevan became the capital of the independent republic of Armenia, with its pink buildings intact.

Source: The Smithsonian Magazine

Then we checked in to our hotel

Nov 1 – Night Halt Goris

Yerevan>Khor Virap> Areni winery> Bird’s cave> Shaki waterfall>Qarahunge>Goris

Next morning, we set off for our first overnight stop at Goris, with long stops at Khor Virap Monastery, Areni winery, Areni-1 cave, Shaki waterfall, and Qarahunge, on our way.

We had to drop off Khndzoresk cave from our list due to lack of daylight time. Unlike in summer, during November it becomes dark quite early and it's difficult to fit in too many things.

Our first stop was Khor Virap Monastery, a very important Christian religious site, and probably the best location to capture Mount Ararat in all its glory. However, you need a clear sunny day (and the summer greenery for aesthetics) for that perfect shot. Unfortunately, we got a hazy sunny day with the sun shining straight into our eyes.

Late spring and summer are the greenest months but it is hotter and the mountains less snowy. Autumn is the beginning of the cooler period, harvest time and colourful foliage. We visited Armenia in late autumn when the leaves had mostly fallen off and Armenia had become quite brown. It was also quite cold for us Bengalis as temperature was in single digits and even touched -1⁰ one evening! The good thing was, no crowds.

Note :

If you want to get an iconic photo of Khor Virap with the majestic Mt. Ararat, inform your driver to make a stop in the fields just before reaching the parking lot or after your tour when you are returning.

Our next stop was Areni winery. We went to wine cellar. Wine is aged in massive oak casks. We tasted some wines. The cherry semi sweet was our favourite. I bought one.

In 2007, Armenians were ecstatic when archaeologists discovered the world's oldest known winery dating back 6100 years at Bird's cave. The next year, an archaeologist found the world's oldest leather shoe under a pile of sheep dung dating to 3500 BC.

www.nationalgeographic.com

The next year, an archaeologist found the world's oldest leather shoe under a pile of sheep dung dating to 3500 BC at Bird's cave.

From Areni village, we went for lunch at Matevosyans' House - a culinary gem located in the beautiful Vayots Dzor region. The restaurant serves a delightful array of authentic Armenian dishes, crafted with locally sourced organic ingredients. From hearty khorovats (Armenian barbecue) to delicious dolma and fresh lavash bread, each dish has a story to tell of Armenia's culinary history.

Khorovats is the Armenian style of grilling meat - derived from the verb 'khorovel' which means to grill. Pork is the most commonly used meat for khorovats, although we also got chicken. It is served with grilled vegetables and fresh herbs. The marinated meat is skewered and grilled over charcoal on an Armenian grill called mangal. Larger pieces of meat are placed in the center so that they are in the hottest part of the grill.

We let our lovely tour guide Lusine Harutyunyan choose the best local dishes and we weren't disappointed. To me, it was the best meal in the entire tour. From the tender bbq-d meat to the juicy fruits to the fresh salads along with cheese & wine, we experienced Armenian gastronomy at its traditional best. The hospitality at Matevosyans also enhanced our lunch experience. For tourists exploring this region, a meal at Matevosyans' home is not only about food; it's also an opportunity to connect with Armenian culture and traditions.

After this hearty meal we set off for Shaki waterfall. The rocky 15-min hike is through a narrow dirt road but the surroundings are lovely. This waterfall is “turned off” during early mornings and late afternoons, as a nearby hydroelectric plant diverts the river water. We tried very hard to reach there before it got "turned off" but reached too late and failed to watch it in its fully robust form. I have included a video from our guide as a comparison.

We had to abandon our plan of visiting Old Khndzoresk - a historic troglodyte kind of village dug into the volcanic sandstone on the slopes of Khor Dzor (Deep Gorge) as it had become too dark to go there. It was inhabited as far back as the 13th century and was abandoned after the devastation caused by the 1931 earthquake. Although some people continued to live in these cave homes till the 70's, it is now a ghost town of caves and 17th-century churches which would have been fun to explore. However, due to lack of daylight time, we had to abandon this very interesting place.

But we set off for Kara-hunj (Zorats Karer) as it was still doable, despite losing light quite rapidly. Kara-hunj (or Zorats Karer) in the Syunik region of southern Armenia is a mysterious prehistoric site. It is believed to be around 3500 years older than the British Stonehenge. About 7500 years ago, ancient Armenians laid out more than 220 basalt slabs on a high plateau. These massive stones still remain, but no one knows the exact purpose they served. There have been disputes about whether it was an observatory or a necropolis or a temple to the Armenian sun god Ara. An article about ancient astronomy in the Caucasus region mentioned Karahunj and concluded that it could have had the dual purpose of a burial site and a place where astronomical rituals were held. The site was officially named Karahunj Observatory in 2004 when studies found that it was likely to be the world's oldest observatory.

Though one can never say with 100% certainty what this site was used for, to the country and many others, it is considered an observatory. 80 of these stones have small holes drilled into them at various angles, probably to observe some celestial phenomena. Although the specific purpose of these holes continues to remain a mystery, archaeological evidence suggests that they connected ancient civilizations with the universe.

When we visited this place, darkness was descending fast and we had to use flashlights towards the end. The ticket office guy kindly let us in after closing hours. However, what thrilled me most in this mysterious ancient site was the purple sky looming large with wolves howling from the nearby mountains. Add a new moon night to that and you get a perfectly spooky "Kali-ween" night (Kali Pujo in Kolkata) .We did a quick round and left as it was getting very dark, chilly and quite windy.

(Info from Absolute Armenia)

We spent the night in the town of Goris which looks quite different from other Armenian cities. The majority of buildings here are not built from the usual pink tuffa, but from a softer grayish sandstone available there. It weathers down more easily and as a result, the city is surrounded by dozens of mysterious caves and bizarre rocks. The name of this place has changed many times, but regardless of the spelling, it has always been aptly translated as the Rocky Place.

Nov 2   Night Halt Yerevan (2.11-3.11)

Wings of Tatev> Harsnadzor watchtower> Devil’s bridge >Tatev> Tatev’s watchtower > Jermuk Hot Water Gallery> Jermuk waterfall /Mermaid’s Hair >Noravank>Yerevan   

Our first stop of the day was We took the exhilarating 5.75 km ride on the Wings of Tatev - the world's longest reversible cableway - offering breathtaking views of the Vorotan River valley.

Road repair work made us abandon the drive to Harsnadzor's watchtower and the naturally formed Devil's Bridge.

Tatev Monastery. The bishops of Syunik built the main church, St Paul and St Peter, in the 9th century to house important relics like a fragment of the True Cross, relics of John the Baptist, St Gregory the Illuminator, the hair of the Holy Virgin, and others. Armenian national icon St Grigor Tatevatsi (St Gregory of Tatev; 1346–1409) is also buried here.

The Tatev Monastery faced numerous challenges throughout its history including the deadly earthquake in 1138 and the brutal raid by Seljuk Turks in 1170 which also resulted in the destruction of thousands of valuable manuscripts. Princes Smbat and Tarsaich Orbelyan spearheaded efforts to restore the monastery in 1261, which marked the beginning of a renaissance for Tatev. It hosted Tatev University, which along with the monastery's seminary, attracted scholars from across Armenia, turning Tatev into a crucial center of learning and culture.

The monastery is nestled in the rugged terrain of Syunik, and despite its remote location, tourists go to great lengths to witness this architectural marvel.

However, we had lovely views from Tatev's watchtower. We stopped by a reservoir to enjoy some lovely views and then proceeded towards Jermuk.

We reached Jermuk around 3pm. The word "Jermuk" translates to "warm mineral water" in Armenian - indicating the town’s prized mineral-rich thermal springs. Their therapeutic properties have been celebrated for centuries - from digestive issues to skin conditions. I saw a Gallery of Waters for the first time in my life!

The gallery is very similar to the structure of Tolkien – arches, columns, water flowing from the taps in the huge stone urns. The water temperature is shown next to the pipe, and it ranges from 30°C to 53°C as you walk ahead. Each of them is believed to have a different healing property and a cure for a different disease from liver problems to cancer.

From here we visited the most picturesque Jermuk waterfall in Armenia. There’s a beautiful yet sad legend about a princess and her beloved shepherd boy. When her father found out, he put a curse on her saying she will be turned into a mermaid should they meet again. Disobeying his orders, when she threw her long tressed into the gorge for him to climb up, her hair turned into a waterfall. Hence the local name, Mermaid’s Hair.

After a hearty meal at a food court we set off for Noravank Monastery. We had been told that it is lit up in the evenings, but sadly found ourselves in complete darkness when we arrived. Noravank means “New Monastery” although it is more than 700 years old now. Bishop Hovhannes who founded the monastery in 1105, had brought the relics of St Stephen from when he visited Jerusalem. These relics were buried in the main church of St Stephen.

Between the 13th & 14th centuries, when the Orbelyan princes ruled this region, Noravank became a residence of Syunik province's bishops and hence was a major religious and cultural center of Armenia. When Prince Smbat Orbelyan died, he was buried near St Stephen's church. Later his brother Tarsayich built a church (St Gregory) on the grave of Smbat which became a family tomb. The ruins used to be the FIRST church of the complex - St Karapet (John the Baptist).

It has a unique architectural style, genuinely distinctive from what can be seen in other medieval monasteries. On the ground floor is the tomb of Prince Burtel Orbelyan and his family. In the first years of Christianity in Armenia, burial structures were often tower-like which could explain the unusual design of this building.

Most of the lavishly decorated khachkars and the ornaments seen on different structures of the monastery are the works of celebrated architect Momik. These carvings include depictions of the Virgin Mary, Apostles Peter and Paul, Jesus Christ, Archangels Gabriel & Michael, and other religious figures combined with floral and geometric patterns.

However, due to the darkness, we could neither see the artwork properly nor the gorgeous Noravank against the stunning backdrop of the deep red canyon and towering cliffs surrounding it.

A very good reason to visit Armenia again!

Nov 3  Night Halt Yerevan (3.11-4.11)

Yerevan> Gyumri Museum of National Architecture and Urban Life>Gyumri city tour> Black Fortress>Marmashen monastery> Yerevan

Today, our destination is Gyumri, Armenia's cultural & historical hub and its 2nd largest city. It was also known to be its prettiest until the Spitak earthquake of 1988 almost wiped it off the face of the earth - claiming between 25,000-50,000 lives and flattening most of Gyumri’s heritage buildings. Restoration work is still visible in many of the older buildings and streets.

Gyumri is a small city and is best explored by foot. Dating back at least 5,000 years, Gyumri was part of multiple empires and known by many names like Kumayri, Alexandrapol and Leninakan. The first thing that will strike you is its charcoal-washed look. Most of its striking architecture, including the churches seem to have been blackened by fire. If Yerevan is called the Pink City, then Gyumri can definitely be the Black City of Armenia.

We started the tour by visiting the Gyumri Museum of National Architecture and Urban Life, a treasure trove of history and culture, with exhibits showcasing the traditional way of life in Gyumri till the 19th century. Then we walked around Vartanants Square (Freedom Square) enjoying the beautiful vibes, buildings and churches.

We visited Marmashen Monastery, located on the banks of the Akhuryan River, on our way to Gyumri. The complex’s five buildings date back to the 10th century - inscriptions on the walls of the primary church indicate that it was built between 986 and 1029 by Prince Vahram Pahlavuni.

Established in the 10th century, Marmashen Monastery sits beautifully on a shelf overlooking the left bank of the Akhurian River. This stunning monastery is considered to be one of the best examples of architecture during the reign of Bagratuni dynasty. It has served as one of the most important spiritual centers of medieval Armenia and is of great architectural value.

The churches at Marmashen are considered to be some of the finest examples of the “Ani school” of medieval Armenian architecture found in modern-day Armenia. The monastery complex features intricately carved stone structures, showcasing the unique Armenian architectural style characterized by its elaborate reliefs and domed roofs.

The surrounding landscape, with its rolling hills and lush greenery, adds to the allure of this sacred site. Some believe it was originally named Marmarashen (marmar = marble) meaning “built of marble” which over time became Marmashen. However, the monastery is built of Armenian “tuff” and so the name probably tried to express the superior quality of the stonework.

(Source: LP & Evendo)

Next we visited Gyumri’s iconic Black Fortress (Sev Berd). Built in the 19th century from black tuff stone, the circular structure originally served as a military barracks and prison. Today, the restored fortress serves as a cultural and educational center. We had a hearty supper at a restaurant which specialises in local delicacies.

After that, we explored Kumayri Historic District, the oldest part of the city. Abovyan Street especially has some seriously stunning facades. The carbon colour of the buildings is from the natural tone of volcanic tuff - used to construct most of the older buildings. Orange-gold tuff stone, often used to detail the windows, doors and arches, gives it a colour combination that stands out.

Aregak: In Gyumri, Armenia's second largest city, Aregak is an inclusive bakery, which proudly employs disabled youths and their mothers, has excellent bread and pastries.

Nov 4 Night Halt Yerevan (4.11-5.11)

Yerevan > Garni > Symphony of Stones >Geghard > lavash baking > Vernissage> Republic Square>Northern Avenue > Opera House > Cascade > Yerevan   

We had a day trip not very far away, with some Yerevan sightseeing (5-9) later in the evening. Our stops for the day were:

1. The Temple of Garni

2. Symphony of Stones

3. Geghard Monastery

4. Live Lavash baking + lunch

5. Vermissage Market

6. Republic Square

7. Northern Avenue

8. Opera House

9. Cascade

We briefly stopped at The Arch of Charents to try our luck for a picturesque frame of Mt Ararat. Alas, it was cloudy and we couldn't get any good photos. We admired the colourful surroundings and set off for the temple of Garni, which was probably built in 77 AD after Tridates I (Trdat) visited Rome to meet Emperor Nero who gave money to Trdat to rebuild Artashat (ancient capital of Armenia) because the Roman army had destroyed the capital. He also brought some craftsmen from Rome. This might explain its Hellenistic architectural style.

Built in 3rd millenium BC, Garni is believed to be a pagan monument dedicated to the Sun God, Mythra. At the time, Armenians shared Zoroastrian entities with Persia and worshipped fire as an ultimate gift from the gods. Later, Eastern Roman empire adopted Mythra as their patron goddess.

After Armenia became a Christian nation in 301, all pagan temples were destroyed except this one, probably because basalt is so tough to break.

This beautiful temple then lost its significance and the fortress of Garni became the summer residence of kings along with Roman baths. However, it was destroyed by an earthquake in 1679. It remained in ruins until 1975, when restoration was completed using mostly original stones which were strewn all around the temple during Soviet times. Garni is now the only free-standing Greco-Roman structure in Armenia and is a symbol of her classical past as well as her deep historical ties to the Greek and Roman civilizations.

The structures of Garni combine elements of both Hellenistic and Armenian culture. The temple was built in the Greco-Roman style, but with local basalt, which is much more difficult to work on than marble. It was also decorated with plant and animal ornaments specific to Armenian art.

Close to Garni is one of Armenia's most well-known and beautiful natural monuments – Symphony of Stones. It is said that this natural monument is the result of the collapse of the volcanic rocks.

The monument consists of huge paradoxically symmetric hexagon and pentagon basalt columns (nearly 50m high). These stones hanging against the gravity resemble an organ, which explains why it is also referred to as “Basalt Organ Pipes”. The river of Azat flows through the gorge, thus peppering the mesmerizing beauty of stones with burble.

(Information from Armenian Geographic and captions from Desuden.com - a travel blog by Vardan Papikyan)

Geghard Monastery contains many churches and tombs, most of them cut into rocks, showcasing the peak of medieval Armenian architecture. Located at the entrance to the Azat valley, the cliffs rise high on either side of this medieval monastery. The monastery became famous because of the relics it housed.

Its Armenian name, Geghardavank, means Monastery of the Spear, as the spear that wounded Jesus during his Crucifixion, was allegedly brought to Armenia by Apostle Jude, also known as Thaddeus. Apostles Andrew and John also donated relics in the 12th century. The significance of these stories make the monastery a popular pilgrimage destination for Armenian Christians.

The monastery was founded by St Gregory the Illuminator and was built after Christianity became the state religion of Armenia in 301. It was originally built at the site of a sacred spring (with healing powers) inside a cave, but the main cathedral was not built until 1215, when culture and architecture began to flourish under Armenian royalty.

After this monastery visit, we were all ravenous. Our lunch place had a mind blowing setting. It also had a 'live' lavash making counter. We placed our order and went to watch lavash making. The 2 women were delightful. Lavash is "a thin unleavened flatbread of Armenian origin" and in 2014, lavash was described by the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity as "an expression of Armenian culture." It looks like our rumali roti but feels and tastes more like a wafer-thin tandoori roti - more chewy. It is baked in an underground earth oven tonir (our tandoor) and can be kept for 1 year without turning bad. Local women bake them in bulk and then store them to eat slowly for the next few months.

But what we all fell in love with was their fruits. The best juicy fruits I've had anywhere in the world.

(https://www.cntraveler.com )

Lunch was consumed in no time and then we set off for Yerevan.

(Sources: Adventures with Ensuite, UNESCO site, CYARK, Westwards Worldwide Wanderings)

After a soul satisfying day, it was time to get back to Yerevan.

We visited the open air Vernissage Market which was a lovely place to shop for souvenirs. We spent a good time looking at various stalls, and buying a few things.

Then it was time to visit Republic Square, Northern Avenue and the iconic Cascade. The evening was getting colder and soon it began to drizzle. Soumya, Boma and I still decided to walk and explore the city while the other 3 ladied got dropped off at the hotel.

We had to take refuge in an underground market for a while when the rains became a bit heavy and then braved the light shower all the way to Cascade via the Republic Square. The Cascade or Cafesjian Center for the Arts is an open air museum and a favourite meeting spot of Armenians. The complex was originally conceived by the architect Alexander Tamanyan (1878–1936), but then got shelved for various reasons.

In the late 1970s, it was revived by Yerevan’s Chief Architect, Jim Torosyan, who incorporated some of Tamanyan’s original plan, and also included some of his own new ideas. Cascade would not be what it is without the patronage of the Armenian American businessman and art collector Gerard Cafesjian. Thanks to him, Cascade has become a valuable open-air and free-access modern art museum.

We would have loved to take a longer look at this very interesting structure in the morning (and preferably in summer) but where was the time?

Nov 5 Night Halt at Dilijan(5.11-6.11)

Yerevan  >Alphabet Memorial>Yazidi temple>Sanahin monastery >Mendz Er cave >Zarni-Parni cave> Haghpat monastery>Molokan Village>Dilijan

Today our overnight destination was Dilijan. On the way, we stopped briefly at the Armenian Alphabet Memorial and a Yezidi Temple and visited the stunning monasteries of Sanahin and Haghpat.

Dilijan being a wet area has lots of deciduous trees and we saw lovely autumn foliage although it wasn't at its peak colours. The landscape kept changing from stark to rocky to a riot of colours. Our final stop of the day was at a Molokan Village about which I will make a separate short post. Our Dilijan hotel had a lovely setting but we only could spend one night there. The host of Andranik B&B was very warm and welcoming.

1. Alphabet Memorial is an open field where 39 giant Armenian letters are clustered alongside the highway. The letters were erected in 2005 to honour the 1600th anniversary of Mes-rop Mash-tots inventing the Armenian alphabet. Mashtots, who is also memorialised with a statue on the site, created the alphabet to give the recently established Christian kingdom its own Bible.

The Armenians had an ancient alphabet that was long lost by the early middle ages. The medieval authors say that Mashtots’s initial mission was to recover and reapply the Armenian alphabet rather than to invent one from scratch.

Unfortunately, the letters, due to their age and condition, were insufficient to form all the syllables of the Armenian language, and had to be updated and modified. Mashtots set out to rearrange and re-purpose the recovered letters, but struggled for a long time. It is said that miraculously one day, he received a vision from God who instructed and aided him in this process.

To honor his work, Armenian architect J. Torosyan created the stone carvings of every letter near Mashtots’ final resting place in 2005. Set against the backdrop of Mt Aragats, the letters and a statue of Mashtots pay tribute to the complex and unique language, a national pride of Armenia.

When Mashtots began working on an Armenian alphabet, he was under great pressure to create them on time for them to be used for a Bible for the newly formed Christian kingdom. Mashtots elegantly laid out the structure of the alphabet around the religion.

He made the first letter A, which was the first letter in the word Astvats, or God, and the last letter K’, which began the word K’ristos, Christ. He then put the finishing touches on the last 34 letters and his system has been used ever since, aside from the addition of 3 more letters.

Source: Atlas Obscura

2. We stopped at a Yazidi temple where their sheikh (priest) allowed us to go inside. Originally a religious minority from northern Iraq, Yazidis came to Armenia in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The origins of the monotheistic religion are disputed because it does not have a book and its sacred songs are passed on orally from generation to generation.

3 . Sanahin & Haghpet Monasteries: In 1996, Haghpat became Armenia’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site. In 2000, the site was expanded to include a second monastery, Sanahin. The two are located 16 km apart in far-northern Lori Province. We visited Sanahin first.

Haghpat and Sanahin both date to the 10th century (Sanahin is a few years older) and represent the golden age of the country’s religious architecture, blending traditional Byzantine and vernacular Armenian elements. What I found even more impressive was its surroundings.

4.There was a brief stop at Mendz Er cave but it wasn't much special except for the view from the balcony. The Zarni Parni Cave was closed and so that was also left out

5. Molokan Village: The Molokans are a Russian ethnic minority who first arrived in Armenia in the 19th century, when they were exiled from Russia. One of the hidden gems in Armenia is the Molokan villages, where time seems to stand still. Located in beautiful countryside in the picturesque Lori region they are home to the Molokan community, known for their unique way of life, and the deep traditions they’ve preserved for centuries.

Nov 6 Night Halt Yerevan (6.11-7.11)

Dilijan > Goshavank>Haghartsin Monastery >Lake Parz>Lake Sevan > Sevanavank > Yerevan 

Dilijan is called the "Armenian Switzerland" by the locals, due to the densely forested valleys and mountains with alpine meadows around. We should have added an extra day here to enjoy this place more. After an overnight stay in this resort town, we set off for our sightseeing in and around the area.

Our first stop was Goshavank, built with black tufa stone that naturally merges with the surrounding dark color rocks and hills. Founded in 1188 by the saintly Armenian cleric Mkhitar Gosh, it is considered to be one of the principal cultural centres of Armenia of its time. Historians believe it was abandoned after the Mongol invasion in 1375. It then appears to have been reoccupied between the 17th and 19th centuries and restored from 1957 to 1963. The monastery has been restored again recently.

Next was Haghartsin Monastery, hidden in a verdant valley 13 km northeast of Dilijan. Haghartsin ('Dance of the Eagles’) was built between the 10th and 13th centuries and has three churches: one named for Gregory the Illuminator; another for the Virgin Mary (Surp Astvatsatsin); and the third for St Stephen (Stepanos).

After Goshavank, merry walnut picking, and Haghartsin Monastery, it was time to move on to the next attractions - Lake Parz, Lake Sevan & Sevanavank monastery.

1. Parz Lich (Clear Lake) is a popular and crowded tourist spot during summer months. About 13 kms from Dilijan, the drive itself was picturesque with the trees beginning to lose their leaves and colour. The lakeside attractions include an Armenian restaurant, boating, a zipline and a rope park. Overnight stay in one of the on-site cottages is also an option. This being end autumn, it was very quiet but the golden foliage around the lake was breathtaking.

2. Lake Sevan is the largest freshwater lake in the Caucasus region and one of the biggest alpine lakes in Eurasia.The volcanic lake covers an area of 1360 sq km and is surrounded by perennial snowcaps. The average depth of the lake is 27m, with the deepest at 81m.

3. In the north-west part of Sevan Lake, on a narrow rocky peninsula, stands another architectural marvel of medieval Armenia - the Sevanavank Monastery.

When the first monks arrived here at the end of 8th century, the peninsula was a stand-alone island. Initially they built a small chapel and a few cells but the secluded location and the increasing monastic brotherhood encouraged them to start building a monastery there.

The monastery that was constructed in the 9th century had two temples – St Arakelots and St Astvatsatsin - now its remnants stand among numerous khachkars. The church buildings were constructed from black tuff, which probably gave the monastery its name Sevanavank, meaning Black Monastery.

After a hearty lunch by the lakeside, we once again set off for Yerevan.

Nov 7 Night Halt Yerevan(7.11-8.11)

Gum market> Holy Ejmiatsin> St. Hripsime> Zvartnots>Genocide   Memorial 

Our last day in Armenia was for local sightseeing.

The cathedral and churches of Echmiatsin and the archaeological remains at Zvartnots graphically illustrate the evolution and development of the Armenian central-domed cross-hall type of church, which exerted a profound influence on the architectural and artistic development in the region.

1. Gum market - One of the most popular markets in Yerevan is the "GUM" market, named after the nearby department store. It offers a wide variety of food items such as organic dairy products, fresh fruits and vegetables, spices, and sweets. The market not only serves as a place to shop but also provides a glimpse into the Armenian way of life and the authentic flavors of Armenian cuisine.

(www.visityerevan.am)

2. St. Hripsime Church is one of the oldest well-preserved churches in the country. It was built by Catholicos Komitas in the 7th century. The 5th century Armenian historian Agathangelos wrote that the young and beautiful Hripsime, Christian nun in Rome, was to be forcefully married to the Roman emperor Diocletian.

She and other nuns fled and came to Armenia. The pagan Armenian King Trdat discovered where the nuns were hiding, and fell in love with Hripsime. After she refused his advances, Hripsime was tortured and martyred at the location of this church.

The relics of the martyred Saint Hripsime to whom the church is dedicated were buried under the church in a crypt.

In the early 4th century, St Gregory the Illuminator saw a vision in which Christ descended from the heavens and struck the ground with a golden hammer to level it. In the vision, Christ tells him to erect a memorial to Hripsme in that place where she had been martyred

3. The cathedral at Ech-miatsin is deemed by Armenians Christians from around the world to be their utmost sacred place and is regarded as being a very important pilgrimage site, making ft one of the most visited place!s in the country.

The cathedral was built and consecrated by Gregory the Illuminator and King Trdat the Great in 303 AD, after adopting Christianity as a state religion. The Mother Cathedral of Holy Etchmiadzin is the centre of the Armenian Apostolic Church.According to the legend, Saint Gregory the Illuminator had a prophetic vision in which Jesus Christ descended from heaven and with his golden staff pointed to the place where the church was to be built.St Gregory told the king about his dream and in 301 King Trdat III supported the foundation of Mother See of Holy Etchmiadzin. 

The cathedral is distinguished from other Armenian churches by its original paintings of interior frescoes. We were lucky to see the first Liturgy of 6 young men as bishops, on a weekday

Since 11.11 is my birthday, Ketaki di composed a poem for me, sitting there :

সৌরভ তোমার জন্ম দিনে-

তোমার পঁচিশ প্রকোষ্ঠ মনে

নানান রঙের নিকাশি নকশা

অজানা অসীম গাথা বা সৃষ্টি সুধা রহস্য, 

আবার কোথাও আকাশের রঙ বদলানো- ঘোলা থেকে

আকাশি- কমলা থেকে বাদামি- দোআশলা ছাই তারপর ঘোর তমসা।

 

সবকক্ষ ঘুরতে ঘুরতে আনমনা ভাবতে ভাবতে 

তোমার প্রতি রোজের বসন্ত শেষ হয়

ঘুম নামে স্মরণের মেদুর আবেশে-

এক দুরন্ত শান্ত জেদী শিশুর মত তোমার পার্থিব গতি

পৃথিবীর আদি থেকে নিরবধি সব তোমার জানা চাই দেখা চাই মাদল বাজিয়ে॥ 

পেশা করেছ ভ্রমণ নেশা করেছ পথ করেছ বাউল বৈরাগীর- 

পঙ্কিল আবহে তাই তোমার মন বনানীতে 

ফোটে 

  স্নিগ্ধ কমল!

  স্নিগ্ধ কমল!

   কেতকী গোস্বামী 

4. Built in the middle of the 7th century, the temple of Zvart-nots was considered to be a masterpiece of Armenian architecture. Zvartnots was built at a time when much of Armenia had been occupied by the early Muslim Arabs who had recently invaded the country. Dedicated to St Gregory, it was built where a meeting between King Trdat lll and Gregory the Illuminator had supposedly taken place.

5. Genocide   Memorial  - Commemorating the massacre of Armenians in the Ottoman Empire from 1915 to 1922, this memorial is similar to that of Israel's Yad Vashem (Holocaust Museum - I have not visited).

On the hill above is a 44m-high spire memorial next to a circle of 12 basalt slabs leaning over to guard an eternal flame. The complex is on Tsitsernakaberd Hill (Fortress of Swallows) across the Hrazdan Gorge from central Yerevan. There is a wonderful view of the city from the top

Built in 1967, the memorial's 12 tilted slabs represent the lost provinces of western Armenia, land lost to Turkey in a post-WWI peace deal between Ataturk and Lenin, while the spire has a fine split dividing it into larger and smaller needles, the smaller one representing western Armenia. From the museum, a broad pathway flanked by a 100 m-long wall engraved with the names of massacred communities leads to the memorial.

Finally our fantastic trip was over. On Sunday morning of 8/11/2024 it was time for us to return home. It was a land we all felt very sad to leave.

I have to thank our guide Lusine Harutyunyan whose carefully guided tour with lots of love and attention to our group members whose age ranged from 45 to 78 years, went much beyond her line of duty. If you ever think of visiting this lovely country, don't think twice before getting in touch with her.

Price for the 8-day tour /car + guide/ -   $1850 (for 6 people . For 4 people it is $ 1250) 

The price doesn’t include entrance tickets.

Entrance tickets

Tickets for Garni temple – 1500 drams (per person)

Tickets for Symphony of Stones – 300 drams (per person) 

Tickets for Birds’ cave – 1000 drams (per person)

Tickets for Qarahunge – 1500 drams (per person)

One way ticket for Tatev’s cable car – 6500 drams (per person)

Parajanov museum – 1500 drams (per person), guide – 5000 drams, audioguide – 1000 drams

Tickets for Mendz-Er cave – 1000 drams (per person)

Tickets for Zarni-Parni cave – 1000 drams (per person)

Hotel in Goris – 10,000 drams (per person) /including breakfast

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Nov 8 Night Halt Dubai

Return from Yerevan (Flight FZ 718) to Dubai
08 November 2024, Friday 08 November 2024, Friday
12:35   Yerevan (EVN) 03h 10min Non-stop   15:45 Dubai (DXB)
Yerevan Airport Dubai International Airport, Terminal 2

 Yerevan >Dubai>Gold Souk>Burj Al Arab>Home

We reached Dubai at 15:45 hours and were picked up by Bashir, Didi's trusted driver, at T2. Didi lives at Springs, which is located beside the lake. Nearby is Meadows, and the area is quite far from Downtown. We had a chicken roll from a Pakistani restaurant.

The United Arab Emirates (UAE) is a federation of 7 emirates located in the Middle East on the Arabian Peninsula. The UAE was established on December 2, 1971, with six emirates; Ras Al Khaimah joined in 1972.

1. Emirates: The seven emirates are Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Sharjah, Ajman, Umm Al Quwain, Fujairah, and Ras Al Khaimah.
2. Capital: Abu Dhabi is the political capital and largest emirate by area. 
3. Dubai's area: Dubai covers approximately 4,110 square kilometers and is 6 times the size of Singapore.Dubai is the second largest Emirate, after Abu Dhabi. In UAE.Dubai is the most populated Emirate in the UAE.Estimates put the overall expatriate population of Dubai at around 75 vs 88% in UAE. Indian (28%) + Pakistan (13%) + Bangladesh (7%) +Nepal (3%) constitute 50% of Expats. 
4. Population: The UAE has around 1 Crore or 10 million people, most of whom are expatriates. The population of Dubai is 38 Lakh.
5. Language: The official language is Arabic, but English is widely spoken.Almost everybody understands English
6. Currency: The currency is the UAE Dirham (AED). 1 AED = 23 INR
7. Government: It is a federation with a president (currently Sheikh Mohamed bin Zayed Al Nahyan) and a prime minister.
8. Economy: The UAE is rich in oil and gas but has diversified into tourism, aviation, and finance.The nominal per capita income of Dubai is estimated to be $49,560 in 2024.  
9. Tourism: Dubai and Abu Dhabi are globally renowned for their luxury hotels, shopping, and landmarks like Burj Khalifa, Dubai Mall, Ibn Batutta Mall and Sheikh Zayed Mosque.
10. Burj Khalifa: At 828 meters, it is the world’s tallest building, located in Dubai.
11. Desert Landscapes: The UAE features vast deserts, dunes, and oases, offering activities like dune bashing and camel rides.
12. Culture: Emirati culture is deeply rooted in Islam and Bedouin traditions, with modern influences.
13. Dress Code: Traditional attire includes kandura for men and abaya for women, though Western clothing is common.
14. Cuisine: Emirati cuisine includes dishes like shawarma, machboos, and luqaimat (sweet dumplings).
15. Airlines: Emirates Airline and Etihad Airways are among the world’s leading carriers.
16. Tolerance: The UAE promotes religious tolerance, with churches, temples, and even synagogues for non-Muslim residents.You can even have Pork.
17. Climate: The UAE has a hot desert climate, with temperatures exceeding 50°C in summer. In November the climate is quite pleasant in the evening. In 2024 it rained heavily in Dubai due to Global warming.
18. Vision: The UAE is known for its ambitious projects like man-made islands (Palm Jumeirah).
19. Burj Dubai is the old Dubai where mostly Indians stay
20. There is a North South Metro in Dubai - which is not adequate. There are some public buses. Otherwise the Public Transport is not good in Europe. You have to walk a lot to reach Didi's house from the nearest bus station. Without a car, you will be helpless !

After some rest, we went to see the Gold Souk and the Burj Al Arab with Bashir, and took a drive around Dubai Mall.

Another striking aspect of Dubai is its skyline. For the first time in my life, I have understood the true meaning of a “concrete jungle.” Skyscrapers dominate the city, each one more ambitious and innovative than the last. The Burj Khalifa, the tallest building in the world, towers over the city as a symbol of modern engineering and ambition. The architectural brilliance of landmarks such as the Burj Al Arab paints a vivid picture of what is possible when creativity meets determination.

We saw many Bangladeshis and Pakistanis there. We went to the beach near the Burj Al Arab and returned home after 12:30 AM.

Nov 9 Night Halt Dubai

Dubai>Abu Dhabi Louvre >Qaṣr Al-Waṭan >Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque>Temple>Dubai Mall>Burj Khalifa>Home

Today, we left for Abu Dhabi in Bashir's car. Bashir has been in Dubai for 30 years. He is from Kerala and is a very good driver and guide for Dubai. The area adjoining the road is mostly desert. The drive takes around 2 hours.

First, we went to see the Louvre, but we did not go inside.

Next, we visited Abu Dhabi's Qaṣr Al-Waṭan. Qaṣr Al-Waṭan is the presidential palace of the United Arab Emirates, located in Abu Dhabi. The construction of the palace was completed in 2017. Qasr Al Watan is more than just a palace; it is a unique testament to the spirit of the United Arab Emirates' people and its leaders. The palace invites the world to share the culture and knowledge of the UAE. Didi bought the tickets for Rumadi, Utpaladi, and me, and did not allow us to pay. To celebrate the heritage of the country, Sheikhs Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan (Ruler of Abu Dhabi and President of the United Arab Emirates) and Mohammed bin Zayed Al Nahyan (Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi) decided to open the palace to the public in 2019. The palace showcases various styles and motifs adopted by Islamic architects in the construction of their mosques, including influences from Morocco, Spain, etc.

We also visited the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is the country's largest mosque and a key place of worship for daily Islamic prayers. The late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan built this mosque to convey historical significance and to embody the Islamic message of peace, tolerance, and diversity. The mosque was constructed between 1994 and 2007 and was inaugurated in December 2007. It is huge and will remind you of the Taj Mahal. Though entry is free, you have to book your slot online to avoid the queue.

Afterward, it was time to return to Dubai. We had some samosas at a Malayali restaurant and then went to see the Dubai Temple, the Gurudwara, and finally, the Dubai Mall with its giant aquarium. We watched the light and sound show at Burj Khalifa. The Burj Khalifa Light-Up Show features a display of lights and sound effects that animate the tower's façade with patterns of lights. The show runs six times a day, every half hour between 7:45 PM and 10:45 PM, on Thursdays. It is located beside a bay, and the area is really magnificent and worth visiting. Best of all, it is free! All the famous skyscrapers are nearby, making it a sight to behold. The entire Dubai Mall area is also lit up, which we saw. When we went there on 8th November, it was late and the lights were off.

Finally, we returned to Didi's house and had our Bengali dinner.

 Nov 10 Night Halt Emirates

Dubai>>Ibn Battuta Mall >Burjuman>Dubai Airport (T1)

Today is our last day, as we are more or less done with our Dubai tour. We had a nice lunch at an Emirati restaurant and then returned home. After some tea, we walked around the Springs area until sunset.

Dubai, often referred to as the "City of Gold," is situated in a region known for its arid deserts. Despite its natural desert terrain, the city has achieved the extraordinary feat of greening the barren land. As I gazed upon its lush parks, tree-lined streets, and man-made oases, I couldn’t help but appreciate the immense effort, technology, and determination behind this transformation. Dubai has truly defied the odds to turn sand into green.

After packing, we (including Tete da) left for the famous Ibn Battuta Mall. Ibn Battuta Mall is one of Dubai's most iconic shopping destinations, named after the famous 14th-century Moroccan explorer, Ibn Battuta. Located along Sheikh Zayed Road, it is the world's largest themed mall and is renowned for its unique architecture and cultural significance. The mall is divided into six distinct zones, each inspired by a region visited by Ibn Battuta during his travels: Andalusia, Tunisia, Egypt, Persia, India, and China. Each zone showcases stunning design elements and cultural motifs that reflect the art, architecture, and heritage of these regions.

After visiting all the zones in the mall, I took the metro (using Didi's card) to go to Burjuman Mall to meet my school friend Subrata. The rest of our group left for home. After having dinner with Subrata, he dropped me at the airport, where I met Rumadi and Utpaladi. 

Nov 11 

Dubai Airport (T1)>CCU

Our flight was at 0200 hours and reached Kolkata at 0740 hours.  From the airport, I went straight to Office.

EMIRATES EK-570 PNR xx

Dubai DXB 02:00 hrs Mon, 11 Nov Dubai International Terminal 3 4h 10m Kolkata 07:40 hrs CCU Mon, 11 Nov Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose International Airport