Bhutan: Six Days in the Land That Measures Happiness
There are countries that welcome you with visa forms, queues, and suspicious stares.
And then there is Bhutan, which welcomes you with mountains, monasteries, and the quiet confidence of a nation that decided long ago that happiness matters more than speed.
This was my six-day journey (21–26 January 2026) into the land of the Wangchuck dynasty, entered not by air or luxury, but by the most democratic route of all—an overnight train and a border gate you can walk across.
Day 1 – 21 January 2026
Sealdah to the Dooars: The Journey Begins
At 8:30 pm, I boarded the Kanchankanya Express from Sealdah. This train is less about punctuality and more about philosophy—it teaches patience before you even reach Bhutan.
As the train moved north, urban Bengal quietly gave way to tea gardens, forests, and the old railway corridors built by the British in the late 19th century to extract tea and timber. By morning, the land would feel different—and that was the first sign that the journey had already begun.
Day 2 – 22 January 2026
Hasimara to Thimphu: Walking into Another Country
By 7:30 am, Hasimara arrived. A short auto ride later, I stood at Jaigaon, staring at the Bhutan Gate. On one side—noise, shops, honking. On the other—Phuentsholing, clean, calm, and suspiciously well-behaved.
You don’t enter Bhutan in a rush. Immigration here works on Bhutan Standard Time, which is half an hour ahead of India—and perhaps a few decades ahead in temperament. Biometrics, documents, photographs, and patience were required. By late morning, I was officially allowed into the kingdom.
By noon, the long drive to Thimphu began. The road climbed steadily through forests and rivers, curling into the Himalayas. By evening, I reached Bhutan’s capital—a city that became the capital only in 1961, making it one of the youngest capitals in the world.
Thimphu doesn’t try to impress. It simply exists—quiet, orderly, and confident.
Address : Pemako, Thimphu Samten Lam, Chubachu Thimphu, 11001, Bhutan
Understand Bhutan
Bhutan: A Snapshot of the Kingdom
Geography & Size
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Area: ~38,394 sq km
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West Bengal (for comparison): ~88,752 sq km. Bhutan is less than half the size of West Bengal, yet far more mountainous.
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Terrain ranges from subtropical plains in the south to high Himalayas in the north.
Population
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Bhutan: ~7.8 lakh (0.78 million)
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West Bengal: ~10 crore (100 million+). West Bengal has over 125 times Bhutan’s population.
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Bhutan is one of the least densely populated countries in Asia.
Economy
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GDP (nominal): approx. USD 3 billion
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GDP per capita: approx. USD 3,500–4,000. Higher per-capita income than many Indian states, despite a small economy.
Economic philosophy: Bhutan follows Gross National Happiness (GNH) instead of GDP alone, focusing on:
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Environmental protection
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Cultural preservation
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Good governance
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Sustainable development
Main Industries
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Hydropower (backbone of the economy)
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Tourism
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Controlled, low-volume, high-value tourism
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Emphasis on sustainability, not mass tourism
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Agriculture
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Rice, maize, apples, potatoes
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Mostly small-scale and organic
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Cottage & handicraft industries
Forests & Vegetation
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Forest cover: Over 70% of the country (constitutionally protected)
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Bhutan is carbon negative (absorbs more carbon than it emits)
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Vegetation zones:
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Rich biodiversity, including snow leopards, takin, red pandas
Religion
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Major religion: Vajrayana (Mahayana) Buddhism
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Hinduism is practiced mainly in southern Bhutan.
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Religion strongly influences daily life, architecture, festivals, and governance.
Language
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Official language: Dzongkha
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Widely spoken: English (medium of education and administration)
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Nepali and regional dialects spoken in southern regions.
Ethnicity
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Ngalops: Western & central Bhutan (Tibeto-Burman origin)
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Sharchops: Eastern Bhutan
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Lhotshampas: Southern Bhutan (Nepali origin)
➡️ Ethnically diverse but culturally unified under Bhutanese identity.
Politics & Governance
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System: Constitutional monarchy
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Current model since: 2008
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The King remains highly respected and influential.
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Democracy introduced peacefully from the top—rare in world history.
Day 3 – 23 January 2026
Thimphu: Where Tradition Runs the Government
Thimphu reveals itself slowly, and today was about understanding how Bhutan functions.
The day began at Tashichho Dzong (1641)—part monastery, part government headquarters, and entirely magnificent. This is where monks chant, ministers govern, and history quietly observes.
From there, I moved through Bhutan’s cultural spine:
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National Textile Museum, where history is woven, not written
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Buddha Dordenma (2015), a 51-metre statue overlooking the valley, calm enough to make your worries feel foolish
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Folk Heritage Museum, reminding you that modern Bhutan still remembers its rural roots
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Zorig Chusum Institute, where students learn the 13 traditional arts that Bhutan refuses to let die
At the Memorial Chorten (1974), people didn’t pose for photos—they prayed. Elderly Bhutanese walked clockwise, spinning prayer wheels, living reminders that faith here isn’t ornamental.
By evening, Clock Tower Square came alive. Families walked, children laughed, and nobody seemed in a hurry—because in Bhutan, nobody is.
Day 4 – 24 January 2026
Punakha: Where Rivers Meet and History Lives
The road to Punakha climbs to Dochula Pass (3,100 m), marked by 108 chortens built in 2004. On a clear day, the Himalayas reveal themselves like a reward.
Descending into Punakha felt like stepping into a painting. The climate softened, valleys widened, and rivers shimmered.
At the heart of it all stood Punakha Dzong (1637–38)—once Bhutan’s capital and still its soul. Built at the confluence of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu rivers, this dzong was the administrative centre of Bhutan until 1955.
A walk across the suspension bridge followed—part tourist attraction, part daily commute for locals.
Finally, I reached Chimi Lhakhang (1499), dedicated to the eccentric Drukpa Kunley, the “Divine Madman.” Here, fertility blessings coexist happily with humour—because Bhutan understands that spirituality doesn’t have to be solemn.
By evening, Thimphu welcomed me back like an old friend.
Day 5 – 25 January 2026
Paro: Valleys, Fortresses, and Sacred Heights
Paro is Bhutan at its most cinematic.
The day unfolded through:
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Rinpung Dzong (1646), guarding the valley
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Ta Dzong, once a watchtower, now the National Museum
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Kyichu Lhakhang, among Bhutan’s oldest temples (7th century)
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Drukgyel Dzong (1649), built to celebrate victory over Tibetan invasions
And then—Taktsang, the Tiger’s Nest.
Clinging impossibly to a cliff, this monastery marks where Guru Padmasambhava meditated in the 8th century. Even from the viewpoint, it commands silence. Some places don’t ask for attention—they demand respect.
By evening, I returned to Thimphu, knowing this was my last night in the mountains.
Day 6 – 26 January 2026
Goodbyes and the Long Road Home
Before sunrise, I left Thimphu, retracing the mountain roads back to Phuentsholing, then walking once again into Jaigaon. Bhutan does not dramatise goodbyes—it lets you leave quietly, carrying what you came for.
By afternoon, the Kanchankanya Express carried me south, back to Kolkata.
