Bhutan: the Land That Measures Happiness

Bhutan welcomes you with mountains, monasteries, and the quiet confidence of a nation that decided long ago that happiness matters more than speed. Is it really true ?

This was our (Subrata and me) six-day journey (21–26 January 2026) into the land of the Wangchuck dynasty, entered not by air, but by the most democratic route of all—an overnight train and a border gate you can walk across. The Plane fare is insanely priced at Rs 35,000 for last 3 years. The plane fare to Rome was Rs 38,000 ! So I gave up and opted for train. 

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Day 1 – 21 January 2026

Sealdah to the Dooars: The Journey Begins

At 8:30 PM, I boarded the Kanchankanya Express from Sealdah — the perfect train for those of us who believe in finishing office work first and then escaping the city like responsible citizens !

Now, of course, there is another option — the Kamrup Express, which departs at the rather ambitious time of 6:30 PM and conveniently drops you at either New Alipurduar Junction or New Cooch Behar Junction.

However, for the average office-goer, catching a 6:30 PM train requires either:

• Superhuman speed, or
• A very understanding boss (both equally rare)

So, in the grand battle between practicality and punctuality, the Kanchankanya Express clearly wins — allowing you to wrap up your day, grab your luggage, and still make a dignified exit from the city. !

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Day 2 – 22 January 2026

From Bengal to Bhutan: A Journey of Tracks, Tea & Mild Confusion

As the train rolled steadily northward, urban Bengal quietly dissolved into a landscape of tea gardens, forests, and those charming old railway corridors built by the British—primarily to extract tea, timber, and perhaps a bit of dignity from the land. By the time we crossed NJP/Siliguri the next morning, the air felt different—and that was the first sign that the journey had truly begun.

The Great Indian Rail Delay (A Cultural Experience) ⏳

Thanks to the single-line track, the train arrived at Hasimara at 11:30 AM instead of 11:10 AM.
A modest delay by Indian Railways standards—almost worth celebrating.

Jaigaon vs Phuentsholing: A Tale of Two Cities 

After a shared auto ride (₹50 per head)—and nearly one hour of determined travel—we reached Jaigaon.

And what a contrast!

• Jaigaon: Noise, chaos, honking, shops, and pure Indian enthusiasm
• Phuentsholing: Clean, calm, quiet… and suspiciously well-behaved

Standing at the Bhutan Gate felt like watching two parallel universes coexisting peacefully.

Meanwhile, Subrata, my co traveller —slightly low on funds—made a strategic stop at one of Jaigaon’s three ATMs, proving once again that cash is king (especially near international borders).

Crossing the Border: One Step, Two Worlds 

The auto dropped us right at the gate. We got down, walked across—and just like that, India turned into Bhutan.

By the time we reached immigration, it was around 1:30 PM.

Immigration: Where Time Slows Down (Gracefully) 

You don’t enter Bhutan in a hurry.

Immigration here runs on: Bhutan Standard Time (30 minutes ahead of India)

Documents & Reality Check 📄

To enter Bhutan, you need a permit.

✔ Accepted:

• Passport (highly recommended)
• Voter ID

❌ Not accepted:

• Aadhaar

We had passports—so things were smoother (relatively speaking).

Cash is Still King 

Important lesson:

• Indian cards/UPI mostly don’t work at immigration
• Carry sufficient cash

Good news:

• Indian currency is accepted
• 1 INR = 1 Ngultrum
• GPay works in some places (after persuasion and luck)

The Great Immigration Shuffle 

We moved around immigration like a shuttlecock in a badminton match.

We proudly declared:  “We have an email invitation to stay with a friend!”

Authorities politely replied:  “Nice try. That’s not a valid invitation.”

Conclusion:

• We were treated as regular tourists
• Had to pay:
• SDF (Sustainable Development Fee)
• Guide charges

Mandatory Guide & SDF (Post-Covid Reality) 🧾

• Guide: ₹3000 per day (even for short distances!). They were insisting on guide fees for rest of the tour also.
• SDF: ₹1200 per person per day

 For a 4-night trip: Total SDF = ₹4800 per person (cash only)

Network Saves the Day 

Thankfully, Indian mobile network worked at immigration.

A quick call to Subrata da:

• He arranged a guide for rest of the trip
• Crisis partially resolved

(First-day guide still escorted us—until he mysteriously disappeared after two check posts )

Official Entry into Bhutan 

After about 2 hours (including tiffin break, of course), we finally entered Bhutan.

 Note:

• You can roam Phuentsholing town without permit
• But beyond that → Permit is mandatory

The Road to Thimphu Begins 

At 3:30 PM, we started for Thimphu in a Santro (₹3000) with a guide.

I briefly considered a shared taxi—only to learn:  “Shared taxis are NOT allowed for tourists.”

The road climbed steadily:

• Forests
• Rivers
• Curving Himalayan roads

Pure magic.

Permits were checked at two checkpoints, so:
✔ Keep them safe
✔ You’ll need them again while exiting

Food, Payment Drama & Survival 

En route, we had:

• Momos (5 pcs, no soup): ₹90
• Masala chips: ₹35

Payment experience:

• Multiple failed attempts
• Finally succeeded via GPay
• Paid ₹125 + ₹4 convenience fee 

 Most shops have QR codes—but success depends on destiny.

Arrival in Thimphu 

By 9 PM, we reached Thimphu—a capital city only since 1961, making it one of the youngest capitals in the world.

The Perfect Ending 

At Subrata da’s place:

• He had already cooked dal and vegetables
• We made egg curry
• Followed by:
  • Red wine 
  • Whisky 

(I stayed loyal to red wine—discipline must be maintained!)

Understand Bhutan

Bhutan: A Snapshot of the Kingdom

Geography & Size

• Area: ~38,394 sq km

• West Bengal (for comparison): ~88,752 sq km. Bhutan is less than half the size of West Bengal, yet far more mountainous.

• Terrain ranges from subtropical plains in the south to high Himalayas in the north.

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Population

• Bhutan: ~7.8 lakh (0.78 million)

• West Bengal: ~10 crore (100 million+). West Bengal has over 125 times Bhutan’s population.

• Bhutan is one of the least densely populated countries in Asia.

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Economy

• GDP (nominal): approx. USD 3 billion

• GDP per capita: approx. USD 3,500–4,000.  Higher per-capita income than many Indian states, despite a small economy.

Economic philosophy: Bhutan follows Gross National Happiness (GNH) instead of GDP alone, focusing on:

• Environmental protection

• Cultural preservation

• Good governance

• Sustainable development

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Main Industries

1. Hydropower (backbone of the economy)

   • Major electricity exporter to India

   • Contributes the largest share of government revenue

2. Tourism

   • Controlled, low-volume, high-value tourism

   • Emphasis on sustainability, not mass tourism

3. Agriculture

   • Rice, maize, apples, potatoes

   • Mostly small-scale and organic

4. Cottage & handicraft industries

   • Textiles, woodwork, traditional arts

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Forests & Vegetation

• Forest cover: Over 70% of the country (constitutionally protected)

• Bhutan is carbon negative (absorbs more carbon than it emits)

• Vegetation zones:

  • Subtropical forests (south)

  • Temperate forests (central Bhutan)

  • Alpine meadows (north)

• Rich biodiversity, including snow leopards, takin, red pandas

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Religion

• Major religion: Vajrayana (Mahayana) Buddhism

• Hinduism is practiced mainly in southern Bhutan.

• Religion strongly influences daily life, architecture, festivals, and governance.

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Language

• Official language: Dzongkha

• Widely spoken: English (medium of education and administration)

• Nepali and regional dialects spoken in southern regions.

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Ethnicity

• Ngalops: Western & central Bhutan (Tibeto-Burman origin)

• Sharchops: Eastern Bhutan

• Lhotshampas: Southern Bhutan (Nepali origin)
  Ethnically diverse but culturally unified under Bhutanese identity.

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Politics & Governance

• System: Constitutional monarchy

• Current model since: 2008

• The King remains highly respected and influential.

• Democracy introduced peacefully from the top—rare in world history.

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Day 3 – 23 January 2026: Thimphu

Thimphu Diaries: Museums, Monasteries & the Art of Hitchhiking 🇧🇹

Our day began at Subrata da’s hotel — Pemako Hotel, where we held a very serious “strategic meeting” with the local supervisor regarding our city tour.

Thimphu: A City That Reveals Itself Slowly 

Unlike most capitals, Thimphu doesn’t overwhelm you. It unfolds gently—like a well-written novel.

Founded as the capital only in 1961, Thimphu is one of the youngest capitals in the world, yet deeply rooted in tradition. Here, modern governance and ancient monasteries coexist peacefully—a rare sight in today’s world.

And in true backpacker spirit:  We skipped taxis and walked everywhere.

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Simply Bhutan: Where Culture Comes Alive 

Our first stop was  Simply Bhutan Museum

Entry fee: ₹1000 per person

Welcome drink: Local wine 

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A Crash Course in Bhutanese Life

Inside, we were introduced to:

• The Royal Family of Bhutan
• Traditional Bhutanese homes
• A typical kitchen setup
• National dress (Gho for men, Kira for women)

Bhutan has strict architectural rules—all houses must follow traditional designs, preserving the country’s visual identity.

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Songs, Dance & Slightly Salty Tea 

We witnessed:

• Traditional house-building techniques (with songs!)
• Folk dances
• Cultural performances

And were served:

• Butter tea (slightly salty… an acquired taste )
• Rice

Soon enough, we joined the dance—because: When in Bhutan, you don’t watch culture—you participate in it.

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Archery: Where Missing the Target is Also Entertaining 

Next stop: an archery ground

Archery is Bhutan’s national sport

If someone hits the target:

• Teammates break into celebratory dance

In Bhutan, even competition is joyful.

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Changangkha Lhakhang: Views Over Rituals 

We then walked up to  Changangkha Lha-khang

• Built in the 12th century
• “Lhakhang” means temple/monastery

We skipped entering (₹500 fee ), but the panoramic view of Thimphu valley from the hilltop was absolutely magical.

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Zorig Chusum: The 13 Arts of Bhutan 

Next, we visited  Zorig Chusum Institute

This institute preserves Bhutan’s 13 traditional arts, including:

• Painting
• Wood carving
• Embroidery

Founded in 1971, it plays a crucial role in keeping Bhutanese heritage alive.

Unfortunately:

• It was closed
• No staff
• No ticket counter

We still walked in—because curiosity doesn’t follow office hours !

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The Elusive Takin 

Through a bit of hitchhiking (Bhutan style), we reached the  Motithang Takin Preserve

To see:  The Takin—Bhutan’s national animal

• Found only in Bhutan
• Looks like a cross between a goat and a cow (nature got creative here)

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The Buddha We Missed 

We could have visited  Buddha Dordenma

• Built in 2015
• Height: 51 metres (169 feet)
• Houses:
  • 100,000 small Buddha statues
  • 25,000 medium ones

Built to celebrate the 60th birthday of King Jigme Singye Wangchuck, it is one of the largest Buddha statues in the world.

But missed it since we were late. 

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Tashichho Dzong: Where Power Meets Peace 

From there, we hitchhiked again and took a ₹100 taxi to:

Tashichho Dzong

• Originally built in 1641 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal
• Serves as:
  • Monastery
  • Government headquarters
  • Fortress

In short: Where monks pray, ministers govern, and history watches silently

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Entry Drama (Of Course) 

Without a guide, we were initially denied entry.

After:

• Persistence
• Negotiation
• Mild emotional appeal

We got in (₹500 entry fee)

And it was worth every rupee.

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Markets, Momos & Mini Park Street 

We hitchhiked back and got down near Crafts Bazaar

Nearby market felt like:  “Park Street of Bhutan”

• Lively
• Tourist-friendly
• Full of food options

We had:  Momos (mandatory !)

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The Places We Missed (Because You Can’t See Everything) ⏳

• National Textile Museum
• Folk Heritage Museum
• Memorial Chorten (1974)

At the Chorten: 

People don’t take photos—they pray
Elderly locals walk clockwise, spinning prayer wheels

A reminder that: Faith in Bhutan is lived, not displayed

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Dinner, Drinks & a Bengali Kitchen in Bhutan 

Back at home:

• Others: Whisky 
• Me: Loyal to red wine 

Meanwhile,  I took charge of dinner

Cooked:  Chicken Curry (Bengali style, Bhutan edition)

Result:  Surprisingly excellent (self-certified )

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Ending the Day with Cinema 

We ended the night watching Black Coffee

Because:  No matter where you travel, a good film and home-cooked food make any place feel like home.

Day 4 – 24 January 2026 : 

Paro Diaries: Monasteries, Mountains & Mild Philosophical Debates 

If Bhutan were a film, Paro would be its most photogenic scene—complete with cliffs, monasteries, and just the right amount of spiritual drama.

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The Great Plan That Changed (As All Plans Do )

Since 25th January 2026 was a Sunday, our initial plan  to visit to Punakha on 24.6.26. to meet our old friend Pooja di at the ultra-luxurious Pemako Resort (₹1,50,000 per night—yes, per night… not a typo) got changed. We switched to Paro.

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The Cost of Exploration 

• Car: ₹2500
• Guide: ₹2000 (discounted, thanks to Subrata da )

Official guide rate is usually around ₹3000/day, so we felt victorious.

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Bhutan: Peaceful or “Politely Strict”? 

Throughout the trip, one question followed us everywhere:  “Where is your guide?”

After hearing this repeatedly, we began to feel like we were in a very polite version of a “highly organised society” 

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The Great Policy Debate 

I gently told our guide:

• Indians pay: ₹1200/day (SDF)
• Foreigners pay: $100/day

And yet:  Guide is mandatory

Their response (perfectly rehearsed):  “We believe in low volume, high value tourism.”

I replied:  “So… only rich tourists?”

He smiled. I smiled.  Bhutan remained unchanged 

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Journey to Paro 

We reached Paro in about 2 hours from Thimphu.

Paro valley is historically significant:

• Home to Bhutan’s only international airport
• One of the few airports in the world where landing requires special pilot training due to surrounding mountains

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Rinpung Dzong: The Fortress That Guards Time 

First stop:  Rinpung Dzong

• Built in 1646
• Name means: “Fortress of the Heap of Jewels”

We admired it from outside—because:  Budget + philosophy = selective entry 

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Ta Dzong: From Watchtower to Museum 

Next:  Ta Dzong

• Originally a watchtower (17th century)
• Converted into National Museum in 1968

Entry fee: ₹500

Inside:

• Bhutanese art
• Weapons
• Cultural artefacts

A perfect introduction to Bhutan’s layered history

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Lunch Break (Because Culture Needs Fuel) 

We paused for lunch—because even the most enthusiastic traveller needs:
Food + rest + occasional silence 

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Dumtseg Lhakhang: The Temple We Admired Economically 

Next:  Dumtseg Lhakhang

• Built in the 15th century
• Unique chorten-style architecture

We saw it from outside—  Continuing our “external appreciation strategy”

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Tiger’s Nest: The Icon of Bhutan 

Then came the highlight:  Paro Taktsang

• Founded in 1692
• Associated with Guru Padma-sambhava (8th century)

Legend says:  He flew here on the back of a tigress and meditated in a cave

We viewed it from a distance.

Because:

• Trek takes 6 hours round trip
• Requires a full day

Even from afar, it commands: Silence. Respect. Perspective.

Some places don’t need you to visit them—  They make you pause anyway.

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Drukgyel Dzong: Victory in Ruins 

Next:  Drukgyel Dzong

• Built in 1649
• Celebrates victory over Tibetan invasions

Currently under reconstruction, so:

No entry
But stunning surroundings—paddy fields, mountains, absolute peace

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Kyichu Lhakhang: A Temple Older Than Time 

Then:  Kyichu Lhakhang

• Built in the 7th century by Tibetan King Songtsen Gampo

One of Bhutan’s oldest temples. We reached just as it closed.

 Spiritual lesson: Timing is everything.

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Tamchog Lhakhang: The Hilltop Silence 

Finally:  Tamchog Lhakhang

Located on a hill, known for:

• Iron chain bridge
• Spiritual significance

We admired it from outside—  By now, it had become a habit 

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Return to Thimphu 

By 6:30 PM, we were back in Thimphu.

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Evening at Clock Tower Square 

We headed to Clock Tower Square

This place comes alive in the evening:

• Families strolling
• Children laughing
• No one rushing

 Because in Bhutan: Time exists—but urgency does not.

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Dinner & Reflections 

We had dinner at Subrata da’s 4-star property near the square.

Food:  Excellent
Company:  Even better

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Day 5 – 25 January 2026 : Punakha: 

Punakha Chronicles: Passes, Parathas & a Divine Madman 

Some journeys begin with excitement. Others begin with… permit issues 

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When Even Engineers Need Permission 

Subrata da, despite being the Chief Engineer of a top 5-star hotel (Pemako), had to sit this one out.

Why?

 He didn’t have a permit to travel beyond Paro

At that moment, I had a fleeting thought:  “Is this Bhutan… or North Korea (with better scenery)?”

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The Road to Dochula Pass: 3,100 Metres of Beauty 

The journey to Dochula Pass is nothing short of spectacular.

• Altitude: 3,100 metres
• Time taken: ~1 hour

At the top:  108 chortens (stupas) built in 2004 by Queen Mother Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck

These were constructed to honour Bhutanese soldiers.

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Cold Winds & Hot Coffee 

It was:

• Crystal clear
• Extremely cold

And then we discovered:  A beautiful café at the top

Coffee price:  ₹120

At 3,100 metres, this felt like:  The best investment of the trip . It was very cold.

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Descending into Punakha: A Change of Mood 

As we descended:

• Air became warmer
• Valleys opened up
• Rivers shimmered

Entering Punakha felt like stepping into a painting.

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Chimi Lhakhang: Where Spirituality Meets Humour 

First stop:  Chimi Lhakhang

• Built in 1499
• Dedicated to Drukpa Kunley, famously known as the “Divine Madman”

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Why It’s Unique

• Associated with fertility blessings
• Decorated with symbolic imagery 

Bhutan understands that spirituality doesn’t have to be solemn.

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A Punjabi Lunch in Bhutan 

By 1:00 PM, we reached Pooja di’s house.

Menu:  Fresh Radish Paratha + Achar

Verdict:  Outstanding

Her home:

• Beautiful
• Scenic
• Peaceful

But she admitted:  It gets a bit lonely

Lesson: Paradise is perfect… until you miss people.

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Punakha Dzong: The Soul of Bhutan 

Next:  Punakha Dzong

• Built in 1637–38 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal
• Located at the confluence of:
  • Pho Chhu (Father River)
  • Mo Chhu (Mother River)

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Historical Significance

• Former capital of Bhutan until 1955
• Still used for:
  • Important religious ceremonies
  • Royal events

One of the oldest and most beautiful dzongs in Bhutan

Recognised as part of Bhutan’s heritage preservation efforts.

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Architecture & Experience

• Massive white walls
• Intricate wooden carvings
• Serene river backdrop

A place where:  History, spirituality, and architecture meet effortlessly .UNESCO has included it as part of world heritage. The location is stunning.

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The Suspension Bridge Walk 

After visiting the dzong, we walked across a suspension bridge:

• Used by locals daily
• Also a tourist attraction

By evening, around 6:30 PM, we were back in Thimphu.

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Shopping & Souvenirs 

We visited  Crafts Bazaar.

Bought:

• Fridge magnets
• Famous Mahakal mask of Bhutan

Because no trip is complete without: Proof that you were there 

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Dinner, Drinks & Domestic Bliss 

Back home:

• Whisky for others 
• Red wine for me 

Dinner:

• Leftover chicken 
• Fresh Egg Curry by Subrata da

Day 6 – 26 January 2026

Goodbyes and the Long Road Home

Every journey must end—but in India (and Bhutan), it rarely ends quietly. It ends with negotiations, near-missed trains, and philosophical acceptance.

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The Early Escape from Thimphu 

Before sunrise, at the rather heroic hour of 6:00 AM, we left Thimphu. 

Armed with:

• A driver (₹3000… allegedly)
• A guide (₹2000, firmly fixed )

We began our descent through the same winding Himalayan roads, retracing our journey back to Phuentsholing.

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The Great Fare Renegotiation Drama 

 Just when we thought everything was settled…

 The driver announced: “It’s ₹4000, not ₹3000. I came from Paro.”

This was new information. To him, at least.

At that moment, with a train to catch and mountains behind us, we realised a universal truth:  “Beggars cannot be choosers.”

We paid. We smiled. We moved on.

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Back to Phuentsholing & Into Chaos 

By 10:00 AM, even after a leisurely tea break , we reached Phuentsholing.

• Exit stamp ✔
• Formalities ✔

And then we walked back into Jaigaon

Immediate transformation:

• Silence → Honking
• Cleanliness → Chaos
• Discipline → Democracy

Welcome back to India.

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The Train Crisis (Because Every Trip Needs One) 

Our original plan: Kanchankanya Express at 4:30 PM

Reality:

• Tickets ❌ Not confirmed
• Tatkal ❌ Failed (even with expert intervention from all the Travel agents - who normally never fails)

New plan:  Catch Kamrup Express at 2:30 PM from New Cooch Behar Junction

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The Great Race to New Cooch Behar 

We hired a car from a gentleman named Amit Shah (not that one ):

• Cost: ₹1500
• Distance: 73 km
• Time: ~2 hours

And off we went through the lush Dooars region.

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Through Tea, Forest & Forgotten Histories 

On the way, we passed:

i) Torsa Tea Estate 

Part of the legendary Dooars tea belt, developed during the British era in the late 19th century, when the British realised Assam alone wasn’t enough to satisfy their tea obsession.

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ii) Jaldapara National Park (Kodalbari Range)

Established in 1941, Jaldapara is famous for:

• One-horned rhinoceros 🦏
• Elephant safaris
• Dense riverine forests

We didn’t see a rhino—but the forest itself felt ancient and watchful.

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Conversations from the Tea Gardens 

Somewhere along the way, we gave a lift to two Oraon women—one of them, Ramaiya Oraon.

Her story quietly revealed another India:

• Originally from Ranchi
• Works in tea gardens with:
  • Munda
  • Santhal communities

 Interestingly: They often don’t understand each other’s languages—yet coexist and work together.

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A Day in Her Life

• Work: 7:00 AM – 1:00 PM
• Tea break: 10:00–10:15 AM 
• Daily wage: ₹250

Monthly rations:

• Rice: 21 kg
• Wheat: 13 kg
• Plus some tea leaves

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Life Beyond Numbers

• Meat: Twice a week
• No refrigerator ❌
• TV: Broken 
• Entertainment: Mobile serials

Cooking:  Gas + firewood

• LPG cost: 👉 “বিশ টাকা কম ৯০০ টাকা” (₹880 approx)

It was a humbling reminder that India runs on many parallel realities.

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Station Stories & Serendipity 

At New Cooch Behar station, we met Amiya Raj Roy:

• Studied in Kolkata
• Lived in Jadavpur

Which, of course, meant:
Instant connection
Long adda session

Because no Bengali ever misses a chance for a good conversation at a railway station.

They eat Meat twice a week. They do not have fridege. The TV has stopped working. Her daughter in law watches serial in mobile. They have gas connection. They cook either with gas orwith wood. The price of gas she said is "বিশ টাকা কম  ৯০০ টাকা "

Day 7 – 27 January 2026

At 5.40 am the Kamrup Express carried us south, back to Kolkata.

Additional Tips from blogger Pratik Mukherjee :

Nightlife in Thimphu

Nightlife in Thimphu consists of a few bars and discos. Notable ones are Vivacity, Mozo Park, Club Ace, Space 34. The best is Vivacity, and it's very close to the Thimphu Clock Tower (the Clock Tower is their city center, and my hotel was nearby). The dance floor is quite good, with good EDM, and beer and other alcohol are quite cheap. You must try their famous whiskey, K5. Don't try the rum; it has a terrible smell. The beer is very good; you should definitely try Druk Lager Beer. Beer is available for 40 to 80 Ngultrum. There are no separate liquor stores in Thimphu; you get alcohol in any grocery shop. Discos are open until 1 AM.

Food & Dining

Be prepared for spicy food. Yes, Bhutanese eat very spicy food. In one bowl of Thukpa soup, I saw five different types of chilies, along with lots of gravy. They use a lot of water in cooking. However, if you tell them while ordering, they won't make it spicy. Here you can get all kinds of Indian dishes; you'll get rice and bread.

A Word of Caution: They eat both pork and beef. Where chicken and mutton are sold, pork and beef are also sold. So, if you have dietary restrictions, you can eat at Hotel Ghasel in Thimphu—it's a completely vegetarian hotel with both lodging and a restaurant.

Must-try Traditional Bhutanese Dishes:

• Ema Datshi: Chilli and Cheese (extremely spicy). Ema means Chilli. Dastshi means Cheese
• Kewa Datshi: Potato and Cheese. Kewa means Potato

• Recommended Restaurants:

• Thimphu: The Zone (serves Yak meat burger), M K Restaurant (Japanese), The Seasons Restaurant Pizzeria, Yee-Gha Restaurant and bar, Ambient Cafe.
• Paro: Hotel Peljorling, Hotel First Floor, Sonam Trophel Restaurant.

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The Essential Cheat Sheet: Key Points to Remember

1. Time: Bhutan is half an hour ahead of India. They use GMT +6.
2. Permit:  Fill out the form and submit a xerox copy of your Voter ID or Passport as ID proof, and keep the original with you. There can be long lines, so if you don't get it that day, go the next morning. Once you get the permit, leave immediately. There's a petrol pump right in front of the Bhutan Gate; the Immigration Office is next to it on the second floor.
3. Smoking: Public smoking is not allowed in Bhutan. There are many police in Thimphu city. If caught, the fine is 50,000 Ngultrum! Yes, fifty thousand. Failure to pay leads to jail. They show no mercy regarding smoking. Never attempt to bribe, or you could spend a lifetime in their jail. If you are caught by mistake, request politely; they might forgive and let you go, but do not bribe. Cigarettes are not sold openly in Thimphu; they are sold secretly on the black market. You'll get everything from Navy Cut to Gold Flake, Classic. You can smoke in your hotel room, at a disco, or at a karaoke bar. You can bring cigarettes from India; bags are not checked at the checkpoint.
4. Money: Their currency is the Ngultrum. Its value is equal to the Indian Rupee, so no need to exchange money. Indian currency is accepted in their country. All notes up to 500 are accepted. You'll even see Bhutanese currency being used in Jaigaon.
5. Transport: The Kanchankanya  Express to Hasimara departs from Sealdah (platforms 13) at 8:30 PM. The fare from Hasimara to Bhutan Gate by auto is 50 rupees and takes about 45-60 minutes. A Santro takes about 4 -4.30 hours. Santro fares are lower in the morning; they start increasing around 3 PM as fewer cars are available. 
6. SIM Card: Buy a tourist SIM upon reaching Thimphu because your Indian SIM won't work. A Tashicell SIM costs 240 Ngultrum and gives 200 talk time. Calling India costs 4 Ngultrum per minute.
7. People & Language: Most Bhutanese can speak English; even villagers understand English. They are very honest and don't believe in cheating people.
8. Local Transport: Public transport here is not good; buses run very infrequently. In Thimphu city, taxis are possibly your only hope; The minimum fare is 100 Ngultrum, anywhere in the city. Taxi drivers are also very honest.
9. Shopping Hours: All shops close by 8 PM, but restaurants are open until 10:30 PM.
10. Hotel Booking (2016 information) : Book hotels using this website: www.hotel.bt. You can find hotels from any location in Bhutan.
• Budget: Hotel Norling (21A & 21B, Norzin Lam, Thimphu, +975 77458579), right in front of the Clock Tower. Double bed for 1350 Ngultrum, but if you don't take the bill, it could be 1100 or 1200.
• Mid-Range: Hotel Tandin, rates between 1800 - 2800 Ngultrum.
• Jaigaon: Hotel Devi Jaigaon (www.hoteldevijaigaon.com), couple bed 650 rupees, triple bed 800 rupees.
11. Best Time to Visit: The best time to visit Bhutan is from March to May.  Do not go during the monsoon, as there are many landslides. In March, you'll need warm clothes for the early mornings and after 4 PM, but you won't be able to wear warm clothes after 10 AM due to intense sunlight. We found temperatures around 1 degree at 8 pm , in January 2026. 
12. Entry Fees: There is entry fee of Rs/Ngultrum 500 for tourist spots . 
13. Cost Breakdown: Food is quite expensive. A plate of Maggi costs approx 80 Ngultrum, a chicken dish will cost 200-300 Ngultrum, so food will be a significant expense. But alcohol is quite cheap. In Phuentsholing, opposite the petrol pump in front of the Bhutan Gate, there's a big liquor store where you'll find a good collection of foreign brands at low prices. You must try Peach Wine.