Friday, September 27, 2024

Balkan Bliss: Touring All Seven Yugoslav Countries in Search of Enlightenment - 2024

Balkan Bliss: Touring All Seven Yugoslav Countries in Search of Enlightenment - 2024

Date	Programme	Transport	Mode	Night Halt/


0	4.10.24	CCU (2025 hrs) >DEL	Plane - Vistara	Airport
		(T-3)
1	5.10.24	DEL (T-3 - 0725 hrs) (>Helsinki 1415 hrs)	Plane
1A	5.10.24	Helsinki City tour and Suo-men-linna Island tour	Walk	Airport
1B	6.10.24	Helsinki>Venice>Zagreb	Plane/Bus	Zagreb Hotel
2	7.10.24	Zagreb>Esperanto Institute> Zagreb City Tour	walk	Zagreb Hotel
3	8.10.24	Zagreb> Plitvice Lake>Zagreb City Tour	Car	Zagreb Hotel Check Out
3A	8.10.24-9.10.24	Zagreb > Split by Night Bus	Bus	Night Bus from Zagreb
4	9.10.24	Split >Hvar Island>Split City Tour	Bus	Split Hotel

5	10.10.24	Split>Trogir>Sibenik>Split city Tour	Bus	Split Hotel check out
5	11.10.24	Split>Dubrovnik by night bus	Bus	Night Bus from Split
5A	11.10.24	Dubrovnik city Tour	Bus	Dubrovnik Hotel

6	12.10.24	Dubrovnik > Kotor (Montenegro) >Dubrovnik	Bus	Dubrovnik Hotel
7	13.10.24	Dubrovnik >Mostar (B&H) >Sarajevo (B&H)	Van	Sarajevo Hotel (BiH)
8	14.10.24	Sarajevo city tour	Bus	Sarajevo Hotel
				Check out
8A	14.10.24-15.10.24	Sarajevo>Belgrade (Serbia) by bus	Bus	Night Bus from Sarajevo
9	15.10.24	Belgrade city tour	Bus	Belgrade Hotel
10	16.10.24		Bus	Belgrade Hotel Check out
		Belgrade city tour
11	16.10.24-17.10.24	Belgrade >Skopje (North Macedonia) by bus	Bus	Night Bus from Belgrade
11A	17.10.24	Skopje > Pristina (Kosovo) > Prizren (Kosovo) > Pristina > Skopje (Local bus)	Bus	Skopje Hotel
12	18.10.24	Skopje > Ohrid >Skopje by Flix Bus ( not a conducted Tour)	Bus	Skopje Hotel
				Check out
13	19.10.24	Skopje > Ljubljana	Plane
14	19.10.24	Ljubljana Airport > Lake Blade>City Tour - by local bus	Bus and walking tour	Ljubljana Hotel
16	20.10.24	Ljubljana bus Station > Venice Airport	Bus	Bus
16	20.10.24	Venice> Helsinki	Plane
16	20.10 - 21.10.24	Helsinki > Delhi (T3)	Plane	Plane
17	21.10.24	Delhi (T3) > CCU	Plane

Our Route - https://maps.app.goo.gl/y3SMyszbdtG2yiNz8

1 Croatian Currency ( now Euro) = 90 INR (previously 1 Croatian Kruna = 12 INR)

1 Montenegro Currency (same as Euro) = 90 INR

1 Bosnia & Herzgovia Mark (Mark or BAM) = 47 INR ( or say 50 )

1 Serbian Dinar (Denar or RSD) = 80 paise or 0.80 INR

1 Macedonian Denar (Denar or MKD) = 1.50 INR

1 Kosovo Currency (Euro) = 90 INR

1 Slovenian Currency (Euro) = 90 INR (previously 1 Slovenian Tolar = 0.25 INR)

Address of Accomodation / Halt:

0.0 Helsinki Airport Hotel (CCU>Delhi>Helsinki>Venezia/Venice)

1.0 Venezia Marco Polo Airport - https://maps.app.goo.gl/rvZkcemceghp9HZQ8

1.1. Venice Mestre (Stazione FS) -Viale Stazione 8/8c, 30171 Mestre

1.20 Zagreb (bus station), Avenija Marina Držića 4,10000 Zagreb

1.25 Yugoslavia-Croatia Zagreb Airbnb Hrvoje Babic (6.10-8.10)

Ul. grada Vukovara 253, 10000, Zagreb

From Zagreb bus stop to Airbnb -7 minutes walk

Check in time (1300 hrs) / Check out time (1000 hrs)

2.0 Split Bus Stop : Obala kneza Domagoja 12, 21000 , Split

2.1 Yugoslavia-Croatia Split Private Accommodation Raspudic Booking.com (9.10-10.10)

Tolstojeva 33, 21000 Split, Croatia

From Split bus stop to Airbnb : 8 minutes walk

Check in time (1400 hrs) / Check out time (1000 hrs)

3.0 Dubrovnik Bus stop : Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 44, 20000 , Dubrovnik

3.1 Yugoslavia Croatia Dubrovnic Airbnb Vukosava - Co-host Nikola (11.10-13.10)

Petilovrijenci ul. 9 , 20000, Dubrovnik HR

From bus Station to Airbnb at Stadun - https://maps.app.goo.gl/zfJp3gfeCCJKDyRLA

Check in time (1300 hrs) / Check out time - (1000 hrs)

Direction :From main bus station wait for bus number 1A, 1B or number 3. Then get down at Pile gate in front of the Old town to reach the Airbnb

4.0 Sarajevo Bus stop : Besarina Čikma 5, 71000 Sarajevo

4.1 Yugoslavia B&H Sarajevo Airbnb Asko (13.10-14.10)

Sagrdžije 6 , 71000 Sarajevo BA

From Sarajevo bus stop at Baščaršija to Airbnb : 2 minutes

Check in time (1500 hrs) / Check out time (1100 hrs) - ok

4.2 Sarajevo Bus Stop - Put života 8 , 71000 , Sarajevo

Sarajevo Airbnb to Sarajevo Bus Station - https://maps.app.goo.gl/35KoXvgyZoxVXVtP6

5.1 Belgrade Bus Stop : Antifašističke borbe 2, Belgrade

5.2 Yugoslavia Serbia Belgrade Downtown Belgrade Hostel and Apartments Booking.com (15.10-16.10)

Karadjordjeva 91, Savski Venac, 11000 Belgrade, Serbia RS

5.3 Belgrade bus stop to Airbnb - https://maps.app.goo.gl/PWyQK2RruusB2ANe9

Check in time (00 00 hrs) / Check out time (1200 hrs)

6.0 Skopje Bus stop : Nikola Karev

6.1 Yugoslavia North Macedonia Skopje Central City Apartment Booking.com (17.10-18.10)

Street 706 No.17/3 Apartment 36, 1000 Skopje, North Macedonia

Skopje Bus stop to hotel - 3 minutes

Check in time (14 00 hrs) / Check out time (1100 hrs)

7.0 Ljubljana airport

7.1 Yugoslavia Slovenia Ljubljana Fluxus Hostel Booking.com (19.10-20.10)

Tomšičeva 4, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia

City centre to hotel : https://maps.app.goo.gl/YHiMYGVuHuPk4RcN6

Check in time (13 00 hrs) / Check out time (1100 hrs) - not relevant for us, since we are leaving early

Visa for Croatia (Applied via VFS Kolkata – a test of patience!)

Since I was spending the maximum number of days in Croatia, I needed to apply for a Croatian Schengen visa — and thus began my pilgrimage to the VFS Global office in Kasba, Rajdanga, Kolkata.

Before you even reach the VFS counter, you must face the Online Schengen Visa Application Form, a lengthy, mind-numbing exercise in copy-pasting your own life details.

The form, hosted on the Ministry of Foreign and European Affairs of Croatia website, is as user-friendly as a Croatian tax code

Now, let me be honest: the visa process was anything but smooth. We submitted all the necessary documents (listed below), and yet VFS managed to "discover a small issue" in the papers. The result? We were gently nudged (read: strongly persuaded) to opt for their premium Lounge facility — where they served us tea and took our money, all while "resolving" a completely avoidable error. A true five-star fleecing!

Once our applications were finally deemed fit for royal processing, they were dispatched to the Embassy of Croatia in New Delhi. The visa took about 25-30 working days, which we spent refreshing the tracking portal, more obsessively than cricket scores during an India-Pakistan match.

But, in the end, our patience (and lounge tea) paid off — the visa came through, and Croatia opened its arms to us with far less drama than VFS.

Documents Submitted:

Filled Visa Application Form (online Schengen form printed and signed). You have to create a log in id in vfs and fill up the data carefully
Original Passport (valid for at least 3 months beyond the return date, with two blank pages)
2 Recent Passport-sized Photos (as per Schengen photo specs)
Travel Insurance (minimum coverage of EUR 30,000, valid for the entire Schengen area)
Cover Letter explaining our travel plan
Detailed Itinerary (day-wise schedule showing Croatia as the main destination)
Confirmed Hotel Bookings for all nights. There should not be any gap, even if you are taking the bus at 1210 am ! This is where I was stumped !
Confirmed Round-trip Flight Tickets
Proof of Financial Means:
- Last 3 months’ bank statements
- IT Returns
- Salary slips , as applicable
Leave Letter from employer / NOC (if employed)
PAN and Aadhaar (not mandatory but were submitted)

4.10.24

I made a dramatic exit from office straight to the airport—no pit stop, no coffee, just vibes. Fortunately, traffic was unusually kind, thanks to Dwitiya, the second day of Durga Puja, when even Kolkata’s autos seem to go on a spiritual break.

Thanks to the legendary planning of Massart, I had already ticked off all the top pandal-hopping hotspots in Kolkata. We even had a night car booked—courtesy of our go-to guy Dipankar, who gave us an Ertiga at ₹2,500–₹3,000 a night. The car came with the perfect vampire shift: 9:00 PM to 5:30 AM on both 3rd and 4th October 2024. Basically, we were Durga Puja ninjas on wheels.

Our Vistara flight from Kolkata (CCU) took off fashionably late at 8:55 PM (by 30 minutes), landing us in Delhi’s T3 at 10:40 PM. Now, here comes the real horror story for you —the airfare. Brace yourself: ₹17,398 per person for a round trip. Apparently, post-COVID flight rates are inspired by stock market surges.

We were flying to Helsinki the next morning, so we thought we'd peacefully camp inside the departure area. Ha! But the Delhi Airport has a “4-hour rule”—you can’t even look at the immigration counters until you’re exactly 4 hours away from your flight. This is not the first time it has happened !

So there we were, along with a dozen other confused zombies, stuck outside the glass doors pretending to look productive.

The worst part? Nobody tells you about this rule. Travel websites? Wrong. Forums? Confusing. Fellow travelers? Equally clueless. So if you're ever catching a morning international flight from T3, remember: check your timing or prepare to loiter in style.

5.10.24

Day 0 : (05.10.24 - Saturday) : Delhi (T-3) : 0725 hrs > Helsinki : 1415 hrs (flight time 6.35 hrs)

Morning Journey and Arrival in Helsinki

At precisely 07:25 hours, we boarded our Finnair flight from Delhi’s T3 terminal. The ticket cost us around ₹38,000, which felt pretty reasonable given the airline’s reputation and service. Now, a little drama at the gate: hand luggage was capped at 8 kg, but my suitcase tipped the scale at 8.8 kg. Thankfully, the ground staff took a generous view of decimal points and waved it through—apparently, anything under 9 kg (i.e., 8.99 kg) usually sails by.

The flight itself was a delight. At 9:00 AM, we were served a solid breakfast: omelette, cheese, muffin, sausage, potato, dessert, and juice—not bad at all for airline food! The journey was a comfortable 7 hours and 30 minutes, and just before landing, we got a light lunch featuring herbed rice and paneer.

We touched down in Helsinki at 14:15 hrs local time. For those mentally adjusting, Finland is 2 hours and 30 minutes behind India.

Layover and Complimentary Stay – An Unexpected Blessing

Originally, our connecting flight to Venice was at 18:00 hrs the same day. However, it got rescheduled to 07:20 hrs the next morning. Cue confusion.

Should we go through the transfer corridor or head to arrivals? No one seemed sure, and advice was split. Eventually, we decided to go via the transfer route and reached immigration. The airport was fairly empty, lending the whole experience an eerie calm.

Then came the unexpected jackpot: we found a Finnair counter, explained our situation, and—voilà—they offered complimentary accommodation and food! We were given two apartments inside the airport complex, along with dinner and breakfast vouchers.

Now, here's the kicker: the Thomas Cook guide later informed us that had we notified Finnair in India, they could have arranged all this in advance. But I deliberately didn’t inform them—because the Finnair counter in India is run by fellow Indians. And let’s just say... I didn’t feel entirely optimistic. Turns out, not informing them was the right move!

After checking in to the hotel, we seized the afternoon and headed out for a half-day city tour, including a ferry trip to Suomenlinna Island.

About Finland and Lapland – Quick Facts & Fun History

Capital: Helsinki
Area: 338,000 sq. km (approx. 4x the size of West Bengal)
Population: 5.5 million
Per Capita Income: USD 54,000
Lakes: 188,000
Islands: 98,000
Temperature: 12–13°C in October—pleasantly chilly

Lapland (home to Santa Claus) is in the Arctic Circle and stretches across northern Finland, Sweden, Norway, and Russia's Kola Peninsula. Think: Northern Lights, reindeer, and snowy magic.

Historical Highlights:

1155–1249: Swedish Crusades brought settlers to Finland
1249–1809: Finland remained under Swedish rule
1809: Ceded to Russia; became Grand Duchy
1917: Declared independence from Russia on Dec 6
WWII: Fought Winter War (1939–40) and Continuation War (1941–44) with USSR
Cold War: Maintained neutrality
EU Member: Since 1995
NATO Member: Joined in 2023

Languages:

Two official: Finnish & Swedish. However, everybody understands English

~300,000 Swedish speakers, ~23,000 Russian speakers

From Helsinki Airport to the City Centre

We took the Finnair Airport Train, the most efficient option to reach Helsinki Central Station.

Trains every 15 minutes
Journey time: ~30 minutes
Cost: €4.10

Signs are in three languages: English (top), Finnish (left), and Swedish (right). Just follow the signs marked “Trains” or “Juna” (Finnish for train).

Helsinki Central Station – 17:00 hrs

From the station, we walked to nearby Esplanadi Park, a lively green strip perfect for a stroll and people-watching. The Esplanade promenade was alive with street musicians, kiosks, and hungry tourists.

Pro Tip: Try local snacks like sausages or potato patties (pasteveja).

At the end of the park, in Market Square, we met Saroar Hossain, a Bangladeshi expat. After 21 years in Saudi Arabia (he left home at 17!), he moved to Helsinki a year ago. Now working at a departmental store, he described his journey as going “from darkness to light.” He identifies as agnostic and seems to love his new life. Saroar kindly joined us for a walk to Market Square.

Market Square & Ferry to Suomenlinna

Market Square is vibrant, with stalls selling berries, bread, and salmon. We bought ferry tickets (€2.10) to visit Suomenlinna Island, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Ferry frequency: Every 20–30 minutes Locals pay: €66/month for unlimited transit (bus/tram/ferry)

Saroar accompanied us on the ferry but didn’t get off—his shift started at 6:30 PM. He told us there are about 5,500 Bangladeshis living in Finland.

We boarded the 6:10 PM ferry and enjoyed panoramic views of the archipelago.

Suomenlinna Island – Forts, Churches & Sunset

Suomenlinna (aka Sveaborg) was founded in 1748 by Swedish Admiral Augustin Ehrensvärd to defend against the Russians. Over time, it served as a base for Sweden, Russia, and now Finland.

We explored:

King’s Gate – the main entrance
Suomenlinna Church – serene and majestic

We caught a beautiful sunset before taking the 8:17 PM ferry back.

Helsinki Cathedral & Senate Square

Just 5 minutes from the pier, we arrived at Helsinki Cathedral, a gorgeous neoclassical Lutheran church. Unfortunately, renovation works kept us from climbing the steps for a panoramic view.

Right in front lies Senate Square, home to the Government Palace and the University of Helsinki.

Uspenski Cathedral

A short walk away stands the largest Orthodox cathedral in Western Europe—an architectural beauty reminiscent of the Kremlin.

Aleksanterinkatu & Stockmann

We took a stroll along Aleksanterinkatu, Helsinki’s bustling shopping street. Stockmann, one of Finland’s oldest and largest department stores, was a highlight.

Attractions We Missed (Next Time!)

Kamppi Chapel of Silence – a wooden wave-like Lutheran chapel perfect for peaceful moments
Temppeliaukio Rock Church – carved out of granite with a copper dome; known for acoustic concerts

Train Back to Airport + Hotel Dinner Adventure

We caught the train back to Helsinki Airport, arriving around 10:20 PM. A kind Ethiopian fellow passenger helped us call the airport hotel, as we were running 10–20 minutes late for dinner.

Thankfully, the hotel welcomed us. Dinner was simple and satisfying: pizza for Mohua and me, wrap for Arindam, and cold drinks/smoothies all around.

We hit the bed early, prepping for our next leg: a 7:05 AM flight to Venice!

Tips for Fellow Travelers

Train Tickets: Buy via HSL app or airport kiosks
Ferry Tickets: Available at terminal or on HSL app
Weather in October: Cool and crisp—layer up and carry an umbrella
Budget Bites: Grab food from Market Square or near Helsinki Central Station

6.10.24

Journey from Helsinki to Venice

We left our hotel at exactly 5:40 AM. The hotel, conveniently located just 20 metres from the airport exit gate, made it feel like we rolled out of bed and into Terminal 1.

Before boarding, we indulged in a sumptuous breakfast at Comfort Hotel, which is tucked right inside Helsinki Airport. The spread was borderline luxurious—salami, sausage, cornflakes, granola, muesli, a live counter, flax seeds, pumpkin seeds… It felt more like a Sunday brunch than an airport breakfast.

Our flight departed from Helsinki at 07:20 hrs and landed in Venice Marco Polo Airport at 09:30 hrs. While waiting for the bus, we met a warm Sri Lankan couple doing research at the Abdus Salam Institute in Trieste.

We boarded the airport express bus for €10 per person and reached Venice Mestre Stazione, about 9.3 km away. Mestre, like Padua, is considered a “satellite city” of Venice and a money-saver’s dream—hotel prices there are significantly lower.

We reached Venezia Mestre Train Station by 12:00 PM, and the FlixBus station is just 150 metres away.

Unexpected Delay & Serendipitous Encounters

Our FlixBus (Route 402) was scheduled to leave at 13:50 hrs, but in true European intercity bus fashion, it finally rumbled out of the station at 18:10 hrs. Silver lining? We randomly ran into Sarah, our Italian friend we had met in Kolkata and later travelled with to Sri Lanka. She was heading to Torino (Turin)—a sign that the world is, indeed, very small.

While we waited, we grabbed lunch from a Bangladeshi restaurant near the Venice Mestre bus stop. The breakdown: 1 Pasta Pomodoro (€7), 1 Arrabbiata (€8), 1 Panini (€4.5), and 3 coffees (€1.5 each)—total damage: €24. The girl at the counter was the owner’s daughter, studying in Italy, and although she spoke decent Bengali, she was quoting prices in Italian ! Thankfully I understood the numbers.

The food was tasty, and the gelato (€2.10 each) that followed in a nearby place was even better.

There’s a huge Bangladeshi presence in the area—one salon had a picture of Mithun Chakraborty on the wall! Nearby, we saw a lotto shop packed with Bangladeshis playing cards, reminding us of a mini-Mirpur in Mestre.

Pro tip: Coffee (Americano) is about €1.50, and espresso even cheaper at €1.20—cheaper than many cafés in India!

Meeting a Traveler from Haryana

At the bus stop, we struck up a conversation with a man from Haryana. He was planning a bold journey—from Madrid to Mexico, then a 24 km walk across the U.S. border, where his brother had arranged a job for him in a department store—$5,000/month! Alas, he was denied entry at Madrid Airport and was now returning to Zagreb, where he works in quality checking leather upholstery for BMW.

His village in Haryana is nicknamed “Mini America”—at least 150 families have relatives in the U.S., some of whom drive trucks. He’s learning English online and shared that this Madrid–Mexico–U.S. route is becoming a standard one.

He holds a resident permit, allowing him to travel freely within the EU. He earns €1,100/month, shares a €400 apartment in Zagreb with a friend, and was helped by his ‘brother’ in Venice, who even bought his bus ticket and texted him updates about our delayed FlixBus—saving us too!

Since the FlixBus stop has no proper office, this update was a godsend. We even used his phone to notify our Airbnb host, who—classic budget style—doesn’t live there but leaves the key hidden in a plant tub.

We also met a Punjabi man who had come to Kolkata for a visa as Delhi slots were booked for three months. His previous application was rejected, but now he’s trying again as a delivery boy in the logistics department.

Many North Indians live in Croatia, using it as a springboard to wealthier EU countries. It reminded me of the film Dunki. We also saw a mixed couple—Canadian wife and Croatian husband with two kids—heading to Zagreb. They didn’t cancel their delayed FlixBus ticket either, since a new one would cost a fortune.

Crash Course in Croatian

Our Haryanvi friend taught us some Croatian numbers and words:

Nula – 0
Jadn Yadn – 1
Dua – 2
Tri – 3
Chetri – 4
Pet – 5
Sest – 6
Sedam – 7
Osam – 8
Devet – 9
Deset – 10

Pronunciation tips:

J = Y
V = U

Voda = Water

Toilet = Toilet (easy win!)

Journey to Zagreb & Arrival

The FlixBus finally departed at 18:10 hrs, passing through Trieste (a surprisingly pretty city), Udine, and reaching Zagreb at 23:00 hrs. Luckily, our Airbnb was close to the bus station. Our Haryanvi friend helped us navigate using his local SIM card and even assisted us in buying our own €2.30 SIM card valid for a month—no passport required!

Before heading to the Airbnb, we had dinner at a decent restaurant inside the bus station.

The Haryanvi traveler was in a tight spot—he had to report to work at 6:00 AM the next day or risk losing his job. Out of sheer compassion , we let him crash at our Airbnb. One of his friends was supposed to pick him up by car.

Meanwhile, we got word that Giacomo and Anna (our Italian friend, whom we met in Kolkata) would be visiting us in Zagreb on 7.10.24 around 22:00 hrs. Giacomo will be in Padua to submit his thesis on Nyaya Shastra and Mimamsa, and Anna is studying Romanian in Padua. FYI, Padua is just 20–30 km from Venice, so many stay there instead to save on costs.

Croatia – A Short Note

Currency: Euro (€), adopted in Jan 2023 (previously Croatian Kuna).
Language: Croatian (a South Slavic language). Croatians can often understand Russian, Czech, Polish, and Ukrainian. Uses the Latin script.
Religion:
- Roman Catholic (~86%)
- Minorities: Orthodox Christians, Muslims, Protestants (~14%)
Population (2024 est.): ~3.84 million ie 38 lakh, which is 3.8% of West Bengal !
- Croats: ~91%
- Serbs: ~4.4%
- Others: Bosniaks, Italians, Hungarians, Roma ~5%
Per Capita GDP: ~$18,000 (2024 est.)—6 x India’s
Economy: Services-led
- Key sectors: Tourism, shipbuilding, agriculture (wine, olive oil), IT
- EU member (2013), Schengen (2023)
Politics: Parliamentary democracy
- President = Head of State (ceremonial)
- PM = Head of Government
- Member of NATO
Geography:

Adriatic coast with 1,200+ islands
Mountains: Dinaric Alps
Plains in east (Slavonia)
Known for national parks, crystal-clear beaches
Location: Southeastern Europe, bordering Slovenia, Hungary, Serbia, Bosnia & Herzegovina, Montenegro; coastline along the Adriatic Sea
Capital: Zagreb
Regions: Dalmatia, Istria, Slavonia, and central Croatia
Area: 56,594 km² (~60% of West Bengal)

History:

Ancient times: Inhabited by Illyrians, later conquered by Romans

Middle Ages: Ruled by Croat kings, later union with Hungary

16th–19th c.: Partly under Ottoman threat, later ruled by Habsburgs

1918: Joined the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes (later Yugoslavia)

1991: Declared independence from Yugoslavia, followed by war (1991–1995)

2013: Joined the European Union

General Tito’s Role in the Non-Aligned Movement (NAM)

Marshal Josip Broz Tito, leader of Yugoslavia, was a founding member of NAM alongside Nehru(India), Nasser(Egypt), Sukarno (Indonesia), and Nkrumah(Ghana).

Opposed both US-led NATO and Soviet-led Warsaw Pact
Hosted the first NAM Summit in Belgrade (1961)
Championed peaceful coexistence and anti-colonialism, especially during the Cold War.

Though Tito’s legacy is debated, especially due to later ethnic wars, many in Croatia still admire his role in maintaining Yugoslavia’s unity.

What is “Balkan” and “Balkanization”?

Balkan: A region in SE Europe, includes countries like Croatia, Serbia, Bulgaria, etc. Named from the Turkish word “Balkan” (mountain), referencing the rugged terrain of the region.
Balkanization: Political term for fragmentation of a region into smaller, hostile units—originates from post-Ottoman and post-Yugoslav breakups.

Modern usage: Any divisive fragmentation—tech industry, politics, etc.

Key examples:

Breakup of Yugoslavia (1990s)
Fragmentation after Ottoman Empire’s decline
Secessionist movements (e.g., Catalonia, Scotland)

In short: “Balkan” = the region, “Balkanization” = chaotic division.

In short , Balkan is a diverse, historically contested region and Balkanization is a metaphor for destructive fragmentation.

7.10.24

Meeting at the Croatian Esperanto League

We waved goodbye to our guest from Haryana early in the morning and geared up for an exciting day ahead. Our agenda? A meeting with Spomenka Štimec, Secretary of the Kroata Esperanto Ligo (Croatian Esperanto League), at Vodnikova Street 9 in Zagreb. We left our Airbnb at 9:15 AM and caught Tram No. 2 straight to their office—simple and efficient, just like Esperanto dreams to be.

This office also houses Esperanto Zagreb, a hub of linguistic enthusiasm.

Esperanto and Bengali: A Cross-Continental Literary Affair

Our organization, Samatat Sanstha, had the privilege of collaborating with the European Union on two special book projects, which were translated into Esperanto-Bengali. Originally, the texts were translated from Croatian into Esperanto—an ideal bridge language.

A fun fact: Croatian and Serbian are like the Hindi and Urdu of the Balkans. Understand one, and you can roughly understand the other. Croatian is written in Roman script, while Serbian uses Cyrillic. Interestingly, Croatian also shares quite a few similarities with Sanskrit !

The EU funded the publication of these books:

The Brave Adventures of Lapitch by Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić (affectionately called the “Croatian Andersen”), translated by Probal Dasgupta. In Bengali, it’s titled হ্লাপিচের কাণ্ড.
I Would Like to Touch the Sun by Tone Partljič, a Slovenian writer and playwright. In Bengali, it’s সূর্যটাকে ছুঁতে চেয়েছিলাম, translated by Probal Dasgupta and Malshree Dasgupta. The book is essentially Partljič’s autobiography. Born in 1940, he resides in Slovenia. We planned to meet him there later. The second book, in particular, offers fascinating insights into the region during the backdrop of World War II.

Update: Spomenka Štimec later informed us that when PM Modi visited Croatia in 2025, these books were ceremoniously handed over to him.

The Book-Bearing Struggle (Literally)

The books were beautiful, with thoughtful introductions—but they were heavy! Ten books weighed a whopping 1.8 kg. I carried half the load myself (my airline baggage allowance was 8 kg!). We had to cleverly split the remaining weight between the three of us. Spomenka kindly donated €20 to Samatat for the 10 books, though the printed Euro price was significantly higher.

Gifts and Gossip Over Breakfast

Over a light breakfast with tea and juice, Spomenka shared that when Tagore visited Zagreb, Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić met him in person. Goosebumps!

I gifted her a Patachitra from Pingla, and she returned the gesture with a T-shirt emblazoned with “Esperanto.” She also mentioned that Esperanto no longer receives government subsidies, and the newer generation seems less interested. The League office was fully self-funded.

Spomenka is friends with Professor Probal Dasgupta, a renowned linguist at Calcutta University. His parents, once professors at Visva-Bharati, were close family friends of ours.

Exploring Zagreb in a Day

With breakfast done, we kicked off our city tour. Fortunately, the Esperanto League office is located conveniently close to Zagreb’s historic heart.

Zagreb : Getting the Lay of the Land

Zagreb is split into two major districts:

Upper Town (Gornji Grad): Think cobbled streets, old churches, and a medieval vibe.
Lower Town (Donji Grad): Wider streets, more modern buildings, and open green spaces.

Most of the must-see tourist attractions lie in the Upper Town, making it perfect for a day’s exploration.

Stop 1: Croatian National Theatre (HNK Zagreb)

Just 650 meters from the Esperanto office, this stunning neo-Baroque beauty was built in 1895 under Emperor Franz Joseph I. Painted a regal saffron-yellow, it’s a cultural icon and architectural masterpiece.

Stop 2: Ban Josip Jelačić Square

An 850-meter walk later, we reached Zagreb’s main square. It’s a bustling hub lined with shops, restaurants, and a lot of foot traffic. The square is named after Ban Josip Jelačić, a 19th-century governor, whose statue watches over the square.

We also visited the Manduševac Fountain and some people tossed a coin for good luck.

Nearby: Zagreb Neboder & Zagreb Eye

Located on Ilica Street (a popular shopping lane), this plain-looking building hides a gem on its 16th floor—the Zagreb 360° Observation Deck. Though our ticket would have allowed multiple visits throughout the day, we skipped it to save time.

Dolac Market: A Burst of Color

Operating since 1930, Dolac Market is a huge open-air bazaar with iconic red umbrellas. From fresh fruit and fish to baked goodies and flowers, it’s a sensory overload. The market is open 7 AM–3 PM (Mon–Sat), and 7 AM–1 PM on Sundays.

Zagreb Cathedral

A short uphill walk led us to Zagreb Cathedral, formally known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and Saints Stephen and Ladislav. Dating back to the 11th century, this neo-Gothic marvel is awe-inspiring. Restoration work was ongoing during our visit, partly due to earthquake damage.

(We followed the Lonely Planet’s walking tour from this point, but in reverse order!)

Ride the World’s Shortest Funicular (If You Can)

The 66-meter-long Zagreb funicular is the shortest in the world and the oldest in the city. The ride lasts under 60 seconds. If you have a Zagreb Card, the ride is free. Unfortunately, it wasn’t operational that day. Sigh.

Strossmayer Promenade

Also known as “Zagreb Stross,” this green, tranquil walkway offers panoramic city views. A statue of poet Antun Gustav Matoš, seated contemplatively on a bench, adds poetic charm. We sat next to him, taking in the peaceful vibes.

Noon Cannon at Lotrščak Tower

This medieval tower fires a cannon daily at noon, a tradition since 1877 to commemorate Zagreb’s victory over the Turks. We were late and missed it—but our hearts were there in spirit.

Museum of Broken Relationships

Zagreb’s most quirky museum. Each artifact tells a story of love lost—some heartbreaking, some funny. I didn’t have time to go, but it’s definitely on my “next time” list.

Stari Fijaker Restaurant

Just 400 meters away from the museum, this restaurant serves authentic Croatian food. Alas, we couldn’t squeeze in a visit.

St. Mark’s Church

Famous for its multi-colored tiled roof, this is Zagreb’s poster child. The roof depicts coats of arms of Zagreb and the Triune Kingdomof Croatia, Slavonia, and Dalmatia. Interiors are viewable only during mass (6 PM weekdays, 7:30 AM Saturdays, 10:30 AM–6 PM Sundays). From April to October, you can also catch the Changing of the Guard here at noon on weekends.

Stone Gate (Kamenita Vrata)

The last surviving medieval gate, it now houses a sacred chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary. A painting of her and baby Jesus survived the 1731 fire—miraculously untouched. Locals pray here for blessings.

Grič Tunnel

Built in 1943 during WWII as a bomb shelter, the Grič Tunnel reopened in 2016 and now serves as a pedestrian path. Admission is free (open 9 AM–9 PM).

Tkalčićeva Street

This lively pedestrian street is filled with cafés, bars, and boutiques. We didn’t stop for food but enjoyed the buzz.

Ilica Street & Dinner

Stretching over 6 km, Ilica is Zagreb’s shopping artery. From Mango to mom-and-pop stores, there’s something for everyone. We had our dinner-lunch combo at a restaurant here.

Back to the Croatian National Theatre

On our way back, we passed by the theatre again. An opera was scheduled that evening, but sadly, we had no time to attend.

Rest and Reflection at Tomislav Square

A beautiful park with regal surroundings, King Tomislav Square was our resting spot. The nearby Glavni Kolodvor (Zagreb’s main railway station) added to the atmosphere. Some buildings were under repair, still recovering from the earthquake two years ago.

Missed but Not Forgotten: La Štruk

This famed eatery serves Štrukli, a traditional Croatian dish. Unfortunately, it remains on our “missed meals” list.

Tram Ride & Reunion

We took Tram No. 2 back to our Airbnb. Fare? €0.80. Tickets are bought directly from the driver, who—unlike in some countries—returns your change. Don’t forget to validate your ticket!

Later that evening, our Italian friends Giacomo and Anna arrived from Padua, driving all the way to meet us. They reached around 10 PM and stayed at our Airbnb. Ever-prepared, they brought sleeping bags and crashed on the floor. Talk about dedication!

Optional But Beautiful: Mirogoj Cemetery

A 30-minute leafy walk from Zagreb Cathedral leads you to Mirogoj Cemetery, nestled on the Medvednica mountain slopes. Draped in ivy and lined with majestic arcades, it’s considered one of Europe’s most beautiful cemeteries. Instagram-worthy, yet deeply spiritual.

One Day, One Heartbeat of Zagreb

In just one day, we managed to capture the soul of this beautiful city. Zagreb is walkable, friendly, and layered with history and culture—perfect for a whirlwind yet meaningful 24-hour visit.

Source :

https://travelmelodies.com/one-day-in-zagreb-itinerary/?unapproved=24116&moderation-hash=3e0c37b26091dc89051b80dd8d09fbc6#comment-24116

https://travelmelodies.com/category/europe/croatia/

8.10.24

A day trip to Plitvice Lake : Waterfalls, Waffles, and Wanderers

Getting There from Zagreb

Plitvice Lakes is one of Croatia’s top natural wonders, and thankfully, getting there from Zagreb is fairly simple. Buses run frequently between the two, with tickets available online (via GetByBus, FlixBus, etc.), at the station, or sometimes directly from the driver (Croatian spontaneity at its best).

Major bus operators include Prijevoz Knežević, Croatia Bus, Globtour, and Arriva. Services typically operate between 5:45 AM and 7:15 PM, and the journey takes anywhere between 1 hour 45 minutes and 2 hours 40 minutes, depending on the number of stops, the driver’s mood, and possibly planetary alignment.

Tip: If you're also planning to visit Rastoke, a charming watermill village often called “Little Plitvice,” consider booking a group tour that includes both.

Our Route: With Giacomo at the Wheel

We had our own special route. We checked out of our Airbnb in the morning and left our luggage in the trunk of Giacomo’s car. En route to the park, we stopped for breakfast at a petrol station café—a very Croatian thing to do. Unlike Indian petrol pumps offering dusty Lays and tea, these stations serve top-notch coffee and fresh pastries. Why does Europe do everything cooler?

Along the drive, I noticed a recurring architectural theme: houses with red slanting tiled roofs. Giacomo explained the logic: slanted roofs are necessary in snowy regions, so snow and rain don’t pile up like guests overstaying their welcome.

About Plitvice Lakes National Park

Established: 1949
UNESCO World Heritage Site: Since 1979
Area: 73,350 acres (296.85 sq km)

This is Croatia’s largest and oldest national park, and hands down, one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever visited.

But don’t let the serene waterfalls fool you—Plitvice has a turbulent past. In 1991, as Yugoslavia was falling apart, the park witnessed its first armed conflict: the Plitvice Lakes Incident or “Bloody Easter.” Croatian police clashed with Serbian rebels, leading to the death of Josip Jović, the first casualty of the Croatian War of Independence. The park remained under occupation until 1995, when it was reclaimed during Operation Storm.

Lakes or Falls? A Little of Both

Plitvice is home to 16 interlinked lakes, separated by natural barriers made of travertine (tufa)—a kind of limestone formed by mineral deposits. Honestly though, it feels more like a multi-level waterfall complex than a collection of lakes.

The lakes are divided into two groups:

Upper Lakes (12) – Bigger, calmer, surrounded by dense forest. Mostly dolomite terrain.
Lower Lakes (4) – Smaller but more dramatic, with steep cliffs and Croatia’s tallest waterfall, Veliki Slap (78 meters/256 feet). These sit on limestone terrain.

Picking a Trail (or Program)

The park offers 8 well-marked self-guided routes (A–F) from both entrances, ranging from 4 to 18 km.

We chose Program B, which cost €23 and spans about 4 km, estimated at 3–4 hours. (Program A is a quicker 2–3 hour route). Thankfully, there was no queue at the ticket counter. Program B includes a mix of walking + ferry + trolley (mini bus)—though we skipped the trolley on our return leg, possibly out of misplaced athletic confidence.

Before setting off, we grabbed lunch at a restaurant inside the park.

Pro tip: Eat before you start the hike—food options along the way are practically non-existent (unless you're planning to snack on pinecones !).

Walking on Water (Almost)

I’ve seen many lakes and waterfalls, but Plitvice tops them all—yes, even without visiting Niagara or Iguazu. Unlike manicured urban parks (looking at you, Dhakuria Lake), Plitvice is pure wilderness. The trails are made of wooden logs, sometimes built right above or beside the flowing water. At times, you truly feel like you’re walking on water.

The waterfalls cascade in layers—some gentle, others thunderous—and the water clarity is unreal. After crossing via the ferry, we decided to walk back along the lake’s edge instead of taking the return bus. In hindsight, our legs protested, but our hearts did not.

Back to Zagreb & Birthday Bash

After a day of natural magic, we headed back to Zagreb. Fun fact: October 9th is Giacomo’s birthday, which added extra cheer to the trip. We stopped for dinner at a Bosniak restaurant, where we savoured:

Ćevapi (grilled minced meat sausages),
Served with harissa, Nan, and somun (a kind of Bosnian flatbread like panini).

Bosnian cuisine is deeply influenced by Turkish flavors, thanks to centuries of Ottoman rule. Every bite felt like a culinary Ottoman Empire.

Despite our insistence, Giacomo refused to let us pay for the road trip or tolls—probably his birthday treat to himself: feeling generous.

From Zagreb to Split (Overnight Bus Chronicles)

He dropped us off at the Zagreb bus station, and we caught the overnight FlixBus to Split at 23:55 hrs—our next stop.

Plitvice to Zagreb: ~2 hours
Zagreb to Split: ~5 hours
Zadar lies between them—a beautiful coastal town that I regret missing.

Modrić’s Painful Past

A poignant detour: Modrići, the village where football legend Luka Modrić witnessed his grandfather (also named Luka Modrić) being killed by Serb forces in 1991. The family fled to Zadar, staying in Hotel Kolovare for 7 years. Zadar is rich in Roman ruins and part of the Dalmatian Coast, which also includes Split and Dubrovnik.

Ironically, the Dalmatian coast—which gave the world the Dalmatian dog—now has very few of them. Once a status symbol, Dalmatians are now seen as high-maintenance pets, and few Croatians can afford them. You're more likely to see tourists wearing Dalmatian-print pants than the dogs themselves.

Final Thoughts

Plitvice Lakes is everything it promises and more—clear turquoise water, wooden pathways, cascading waterfalls, and a dash of history. Whether you're a nature lover, history buff, or someone just looking for Instagrammable scenery, Plitvice will not disappoint.

Bonus: You can also visit Plitvice from Split—perfect if you're continuing down the Dalmatian coast.

Useful blog : https://travelmelodies.com/plitvice-lakes-national-park-croatia/

Tour which you can book : https://www.getyourguide.com/zagreb-l803/from-zagreb-full-day-plitvice-lakes-rastoke-group-tour-t126419/?ranking_uuid=4c3613f2-bc80-4b65-9c55-d09587a88120

9.10.24

Arrival in Split: A Dawn Patrol

We arrived in Split (or Splato, as the Italians call it) at the painfully early hour of 5:00 AM. While Mohua patiently held the fort at the bus stop, I launched a stealthy solo recce mission to scope out the ferry terminal, ticket counters for Hvar, and everything else that might be useful—well aware that we wouldn’t be allowed into our apartment that early.

Thankfully, our apartment was just 800 meters from the bus station. Better still, there were no medieval cobblestone roads to drag our luggage across—a true Croatian blessing. The owner answered the door after I rang the bell. Though check-in wasn’t until 14:00, he graciously let us stash our bags and use the bathroom. Since it's an apartment and not a hotel, there's no reception desk—the owner lives in one of the flats and plays many roles, including concierge, landlord, and occasional lifesaver. He promised an early check-in at 12:00.

We rewarded ourselves with strong espresso (@ €1.20) and cappuccino (@ €1.80) at the nearby cafe-football-tennis-betting bar. Yes, it was all of that in one place, complete with giant TVs and live betting screens. By 7:00 AM, the supermarket next door opened. I scored some warm chocolate croissants (@ €1.15), followed by another round of coffee. Fully caffeinated and croissant-ed, we were ready to take on Split.We were completely recharged. If truth be told, before that we were bit tired !

A Glimpse into Split’s History

Split is Croatia’s second-largest city after Zagreb, the vibrant capital of the Dalmatian region, and a brilliant cocktail of Roman grandeur, Venetian charm, and Adriatic flair.

The city began as the Greek colony of Aspálathos in the 3rd or 4th century BC. However, it truly entered the historical limelight in 305 AD when Roman Emperor Diocletian decided to build his retirement palace here.

During Diocletian's reign (284–305 AD), one of the biggest geopolitical headaches was the Roman–Persian conflict. Armenia, sandwiched between the two empires, had long played neutral. But when Armenia sided with Rome under King Tiridates III, Persia wasn’t thrilled. Persian King Narseh even managed to oust Tiridates. In retaliation, Diocletian and his co-emperor Galerius launched a campaign. Galerius won a decisive battle in Satala (298 AD), signed the Treaty of Nisibis, and reinstated Tiridates. Armenia became the world’s first Christian nation in 301 AD. All this, while Diocletian was still preparing for his beach retirement.

Split has since seen it all—Byzantines, Venetians, Croatians, Austro-Hungarians, Italians, Nazis, and Communists. Despite the upheavals, Diocletian’s legacy remains intact, making Split home to some of the best-preserved Roman ruins outside of Italy.

Located on the eastern shores of the Adriatic Sea, Split’s strategic position has long made it an important trade and transport hub. Today, it is not just a historical treasure but also the main gateway to Croatia’s stunning islands, including Hvar, Vis, Bol and Brač. Toursits generally visits these 4 Islands.

How Many Days in Split? We had 2 full days:

Day 1: Hvar Island & Old Town
Day 2: Day trips to Trogir and Šibenik

Hvar Island: A Day Trip to Sunshine and Serenity

We walked to the pier after breakfast and learned that the famous 5-Island tour was cancelled due to bad weather. But all was not lost—Hvar Island was still on the table! We bought one-way catamaran tickets (@ €25 each) for the 9:00 AM ferry to Hvar. We kept the return ticket open, just in case we got tempted to stay longer.

Hvar gets 2,700 hours of sunshine a year and is one of the most popular islands in Europe. With its crystal-clear water, lavender fields, and Renaissance architecture, it’s the stuff postcards are made of. Located in the Adriatic Sea off the Dalmatian coast of Croatia, Hvar is not just one of the sunniest islands in Europe—it’s also one of the most enchanting. Renowned for its lavender fields, olive groves, vineyards, and crystal-clear turquoise waters, Hvar attracts travelers looking for both vibrant nightlife and serene Mediterranean charm.

The island’s history dates back to 384 BC, when it was settled by ancient Greek colonists . In the Middle Ages, Hvar fell under Venetian rule, and this legacy is still visible in its beautifully preserved architecture—think Renaissance-era palaces, Baroque cathedrals, and winding stone streets. The island’s cultural blend is a living timeline of Greek, Roman, Slavic, and Venetian influences.

Historically, Hvar was a key naval base for the Venetian Empire and has been inhabited since prehistoric times. Thanks to its strategic location in the Adriatic Sea, the island became a vital hub for trade, culture, and maritime power.

Hvar truly flourished between the 13th and 18th centuries under Venetian rule, and the legacy of this golden era is still visible in the island’s towns—especially in Hvar Town.

Top Attractions:

Fortica (Spanjola Fortress): Offers killer views of Hvar Town and the Pakleni Islands. We hiked up (Mohua took a thoughtful pause halfway up, soaking in the vibes), but skipped the entry fee. You can enjoy the panoramic views without going in.
St. Stephen’s Cathedral & Square: The largest square in Dalmatia, anchored by a 16th-century cathedral.
Island Tours: From Hvar, you can do Blue Lagoon, Blue Cave, Green Cave, and Pakleni Island tours, starting @ €10–15. But if the weather is rough (like during our visit), they get canceled. Most tours start from Split.

We returned to Split by 3:30 PM (1-hour journey), checked in to our apartment, and while Mohua took some well-deserved rest, we headed off to explore Old Town.

Split Old Town & Diocletian’s Palace: A Living Ruin

This UNESCO World Heritage site is not just a museum but a real city, home to 3,000 residents. It has four gates:

Bronze Gate (South): Faces the sea
Iron Gate (West): Opens to People’s Square (Narodni Trg)
Golden Gate (North): Grandest of all
Silver Gate (East): Most commonly used

We began at the Golden Gate, near the statue of Gregory of Nin (Grgur Ninski) by Ivan Meštrović. Legend says rubbing the statue’s toe brings luck—we resisted the urge (barely).

Diocletian’s Palace Built in 305 AD as the emperor’s retirement fortress-resort hybrid. It had military barracks, temples, and luxurious quarters. Game of Thrones fans will recognize the basement as Daenerys' dragon lair.

Peristyle Square: The palace’s ceremonial heart, surrounded by the Split Cathedral, Bell Tower, and Vestibule.
Café Luxor: Sit on Roman steps, sip espresso, and enjoy live music.

Cathedral of St. Domnius: Originally Diocletian’s mausoleum, converted into a cathedral in the 7th century. Its bell tower took nearly 300 years to complete. Climb it for spectacular 360° views.

Vestibule: A circular hall leading to the emperor’s quarters. Its open roof makes it a dreamy spot for traditional klapa (a cappella) performances.

People’s Square (Narodni Trg): Medieval square with a 15th-century Town Hall and cozy cafes. Feels like a baby version of Brussels’ Grand Place.

Let Me Pass Street (Pusti me da Prođem): One of the world’s narrowest streets. We dared each other to fit through.

All in all, it took 1.5 hours to cover the whole area. Entry to the palace is free, but the Cathedral, Bell Tower, and Cellars need paid tickets. We opted not to go inside.

Sunset at Riva Promenade: Split's Glamorous Seafront

This palm-lined promenade runs alongside the sea and the palace walls. Packed with bars, cafes, yachts, and people-watching opportunities, it’s where Split comes to life in the evening. If you stick around long enough, you might catch live music or impromptu dancing.

All ferries to Croatian islands leave from here, so it’s also a good place to plan your next hop.

I grabbed dinner with my friend near the bus station and brought back takeaway for her from the nearby market.

10.10.24

A Day Trip to Trogir & Šibenik: Exploring Croatia’s Coastal Gems

A Much-Needed Rest

After our whirlwind adventures, we truly needed a good night’s sleep. We crashed at 10:30 PM and didn’t wake until a blissful 8:15 AM. Following a quick breakfast, we headed to the local bus station (not the intercity one we used previously) to catch the 10:50 AM Bus 37 to Trogir from Sukoisanska Bus Station. The fare was a very reasonable €2 per person. This local bus, which runs every 15–30 minutes, takes about 40 minutes to reach Trogir.

Tip: You can also take a ferry from Split to Trogir during peak season—a scenic one-hour cruise across the shimmering Adriatic.

Trogir: A UNESCO-Protected Gem

Trogir, located just 30 km west of Split, is a postcard-perfect coastal town steeped in history. The Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997, sits charmingly on a small island, connected by bridges to the mainland and the island of Čiovo.

Originally founded in the 3rd century BC by Greek colonists from Vis, Trogir flourished under Roman and Venetian rule. Its rich architectural heritage is a cocktail of Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles.

Key Landmarks:

✪ Cathedral of St. Lawrence (Katedrala Sv. Lovre) This Romanesque-Gothic marvel is a highlight, particularly for us—we studied at St. Lawrence School in Kolkata! Its intricately carved portal by Master Radovan (1240 AD) is a showstopper. We climbed to the top of its bell tower for a panoramic view that may just beat Galata Tower in Istanbul. Entry: €5

Trogir offers a stunning mix of mountains on one side, the bay and sea on another, and the Old Town sitting snugly in between.

✪ Kamerlengo Castle & St. Mark’s Tower Strolling along the lively promenade, we reached this 15th-century Venetian fortress. Once a naval base, it's now used for concerts and offers stunning views. Nearby stands St. Mark’s Tower, part of the city’s medieval defense.

✪ City Loggia & Clock Tower Dating back to the 15th century, this open-air gallery served as a public meeting space. The adjacent Clock Tower, once part of St. Sebastian Church, is an iconic structure.

✪ Cipiko Palace This Gothic-Renaissance beauty belonged to the influential Cipiko family. Its Venetian-style windows are a visual treat.

Onward to Šibenik (Not Klis Fortress)

After a few hours of delightful wandering, we faced a travel fork: Klis Fortress or Šibenik. Klis, perched above Split, is famous as a filming location for Meereen in Game of Thrones. Buses 22, 35, and 36 can take you there. Open: 9 AM–4 PM.

But we opted for Šibenik, boarding a FlixBus at 2:30 PM from Trogir. The journey (about 1 hour) cost €8.9 per person. Upon arriving, we immediately bought return tickets to Split for the 7:00 PM bus, giving us 3 hours to explore.

Šibenik: The Hidden Coastal Jewel

Located 80 km from Split, Šibenik is unique among Dalmatian towns. Unlike Split and Trogir—which were shaped by Greek and Roman civilizations—Šibenik was founded by Croats in the 11th century.

It may be less touristy, but it's rich in character, known for stone alleys, fortresses, and sea views. Yachts lined the coast here too—a consistent theme in Croatian coastal life!

Highlights of Šibenik:

✪ St. James Cathedral (Katedrala Sv. Jakova) This 16th-century architectural gem is built entirely from stone, with no wood or binding material. It features 71 sculpted faces of local citizens, frozen in time.

✪ St. Michael’s Fortress Originally a defensive fortress, today it’s an open-air concert venue with sweeping views of the Adriatic.

✪ St. Nicholas Fortress Built in the 16th century to guard against the Ottomans, this sea fortress stands at the entrance to St. Anthony’s Channel and is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

We wandered through the Old Town's labyrinthine alleys, soaking in its authentic charm before hopping back on the bus to Split.

Bonus: More to Explore in Split

If you’ve got more time, Split offers additional gems:

✪ Pazar Market – Open from 6:30 AM, it's a bustling open-air bazaar filled with fresh produce, meats, cheeses, and flowers.

✪ Trstenik Beach – Managed by Radisson Blu, it's cleaner and quieter than the more crowded Bačvica Beach.

Missed But Not Forgotten: Day Trips We Skipped

Due to time crunch, we sadly skipped the:

Blue Cave (Biševo Island)
Krka Waterfalls
Blue Lagoon & Pakleni Islands
Plitvice Lakes (already covered earlier!)

Boat tours for these can be booked along the Split Promenade and near the bus station.

Final Thoughts: Dalmatian Magic

Split is a wonderful mash-up of ancient ruins, modern cafes, island vibes, and coastal serenity. If you’re in Croatia, definitely plan 3–4 days in Split. Two days is doable, but hectic. Don’t skip a hike to Marjan Hill for panoramic views! Split, with its layered history, is truly a marvel. Whether you're geeking out on Roman ruins, chasing Game of Thrones locations, or just sipping coffee by the sea—there’s something here for every kind of traveler.

Trogir and Šibenik were like bonus tracks on a hit album—each different in tone, but equally memorable.

Final Moments in Split

We returned to Split around 8:30 PM. After picking up our luggage (left with the hotel owner), we spent our last few hours at the Riva Promenade. One funny bit: the coffee shops stop selling coffee after 7:00 PM. Post that? It’s beer or bust.

Mohua chose to sit by the waterfront while we roamed the streets. In a serendipitous twist, we met the only Bengali (Bangladeshi) person we saw in Split. He was running a seafood fritter stall, selling treats similar to those in Sorrento, Italy. He said he had seen ex-pat Indians here, but never a Bengali from Kolkata

He had previously lived in Dubai and moved here seeking better prospects. He earns €700, has a decent place to live, and shares his flat with another Bangladeshi. The shop runs two shifts and will close in the off-season, when he’ll still be paid €350. He was generous with sauces—tartar, mayo, sweet chili —and we enjoyed anchovies and calamari.

After our impromptu chat, we headed to the bus station to catch our 2:35 AM overnight bus to Dubrovnik, wrapping up our unforgettable Dalmatian adventure.

Note: No coffee shops were open near Riva Promenade at this hour.

Only regret: caffeine withdrawal.

11.10.24

Dubrovnik - The Pearl of the Adriatic

Arriving in Dubrovnik: Chaos and Charm Before Sunrise

We arrived in Dubrovnik early in the morning at 6:45 AM, slightly groggy but ready for adventure. From the bus station, we boarded Tram No. 1/1A toward Pile Gate—the grand medieval entrance to the Old Town. It was packed. Before Mohua could even step on, the tram lurched forward, leaving her behind. We got down at the next stop, only to see Mohua arrive shortly afterward on the next tram. A few minutes later, it was Arindam’s turn to miss the tram. Eventually, we all rendezvoused at Pile Gate, like a mini family reunion with medieval stone backdrops.

Pile Gate, with its elegant stone archway and the statue of St. Blaise (Dubrovnik's patron saint), is more than just an entrance—it's a dramatic prelude to the Old Town's fairy-tale beauty.

Thanks to prior coordination with our host, we were able to drop off our luggage at our apartment right in the heart of Stradun.

Welcome to the Pearl of the Adriatic

Dubrovnik, often referred to as the “Pearl of the Adriatic,” is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Whether you're into medieval history, Adriatic views, or just really obsessed with Game of Thrones, Dubrovnik is like a dream wrapped in stone walls.

The Siege of Dubrovnik (1991-1992): A City Under Fire

Although it's a tourist magnet today, Dubrovnik was under siege during the Croatian War of Independence. From October 1991 to May 1992, the Yugoslav People's Army (YPA), mainly from Serbia and Montenegro, attacked the city. The UNESCO-protected Old Town was shelled heavily—50% of its buildings were damaged.

The siege started in earnest on November 11, 1991. The city was accessed through a narrow land corridor (dubbed the "chicken’s neck"), which the YPA controlled, cutting off food, electricity, and water. Yet the Dubrovnik Defenders, though outnumbered, held their ground until Croatian forces reclaimed the city in 1992. Montenegro has since apologized for its role.

Even today, you can see plaques marking where shells hit. For more, visit the Museum of the Homeland War in Fort Imperial on Mount Srđ.

Stradun (Placa): The Spine of the Old Town

We began our day walking along Stradun, the main pedestrian street—or as I like to call it, the spine of a fish, with the side lanes as little ribs lined with restaurants and cafes. No vehicles, just vibes.

Historic Highlights: Where Stones Speak

Franciscan Monastery: Home to one of Europe’s oldest pharmacies (since 1317), with a serene cloister and small museum.
Sponza Palace: One of the few buildings to survive the 1667 earthquake. Built in 1522, it served as everything from a mint to an armory. Today, it houses historical archives and a poignant photo exhibition on the 1990s war - how Dubrovnik was destroyed during the 1994 war by JNA or YPA. The main attack started by people from YPA (Serbia and Montenegro) from 11.11.1991. You have to enter Dubrovnice through a Chicken' s neck and rest of the city is surrounded by sea. YPA controlled the chicken's neck and mainland. As a result food supply, water, electricity was cut off. Lot of bombs were hurled on Dubrovnik. Finally in 1995 Dubrovnik was free from YPA.
Dominican Monastery: Built in 1348, it combines Gothic, Romanesque, and Renaissance styles. The cloister designed by Florentine Maso di Bartolomeo is a real gem.
Clock Tower & Loggia of the Bells: Dating back to 1444, with four bells and a golden ball clock that shows time and moon phases.
Church of St. Blaise & Orlando’s Column: Designed by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli in 1715. Inside is a Gothic gold-plated silver statue of St. Blaise. Outside stands Orlando's Column (1418), a symbol of the city’s liberty.
Marin Držić Statue: Dubrovnik's very own Shakespeare. His statue, by Croatia’s most famous sculptor Ivan Meštrović, has a shiny nose—courtesy of tourists rubbing it for luck.
Rector's Palace: Once the political heart of the Republic of Ragusa. Gothic-Renaissance-Baroque blend. It houses the Cultural History Museum and featured in Game of Thrones as the palace of the Spice King of Qarth.The palace’s courtyard is an architectural masterpiece, with intricate stone staircases and finely carved columns.We saw it from outside.
Dubrovnik Cathedral: Rebuilt after the 1667 quake, legend has it King Richard the Lionheart funded its construction after surviving a shipwreck near Lokrum Island.
Gundulić Square: A bustling market square offering fresh produce and souvenirs.
Jesuit Staircase: Think Spanish Steps, but Baroque and Croatian. Featured in Cersei Lannister’s infamous Walk of Shame.Coincidentally, we arrived during a local wedding, adding to the magic of the setting.
Mount Srđ: Panoramic Views of Dubrovnik

We didn’t have time to take the cable car up to Mount Srđ, but it’s a must for breathtaking views of Dubrovnik and the Dalmatian Coast. At the summit, the Panorama Restaurant is perfect for enjoying a drink with a view. Instead we did, the most important thing to do in Dubrovnik - walking on the city wall.

Walking the City Walls: Dubrovnik’s Greatest Hits from Above

We skipped the cable car to Mount Srđ but opted for the ultimate experience: walking Dubrovnik’s city walls. It takes about 1.5 to 2 hours. From atop, the views are chef's kiss – Old Town on one side, the sea on the other. It's like the Great Wall of China... with sea views and seagulls.

The Minčeta Fortress offers the best panorama. However, the gates close at 6 PM. We got in a bit late and managed about 50% of the wall walk. I somehow ventured further, but Arindam was stopped and had to get down early. Mohua decided the wall was not for her and instead enjoyed the sunset from a lookout point on the wall.

The ticket (Euro 35) we bought only covered the wall for one day and limited attractions. Mistake ! Mistake ! The Dubrovnik Card would have been a smarter buy.

Fort Lovrijenac: Just outside the wall and included in the ticket. Featured in GoT as the Red Keep.

Where to Eat: Climb for Cuisine

Dining in Dubrovnik Old Town can be pricey, but we found a gem near our apartment. Cascading restaurants built on the slope from Stradun offer killer views. We paid just 15 Euro for a set dinner: salad, seafood risotto for me, veggie risotto for Mohua, grilled fish for Arindam, and a chocolate cake to finish.

Final Thoughts: Dubrovnik, You Show-Off!

After dinner, we took a moonlit walk through the marble streets. Dubrovnik isn’t just a city; it’s a living museum, a TV set, and a history lesson all rolled into one.

Extra Tips

Avoiding Crowds: Enter via Ploče Gate instead of Pile Gate.
Dubrovnik Card: Great for discounted entry and public transport.
Day Trips: Elafiti Islands and Lokrum Island are lovely escapes.

Dubrovnik Travel FAQs (source : a blog )

Why is Dubrovnik so famous? For its beauty, history, and GoT fame.
Split or Dubrovnik? I vote Dubrovnik. Split is cheaper and well-connected, but Dubrovnik is a dream.
Is Dubrovnik walkable? Completely. The Old Town is pedestrian-only.

Dubrovnik will stay with you long after you've left. Whether you're chasing history, fantasy, or just some killer Adriatic views—this city delivers.

12.10.24 - Montenegro

A Day Trip to Montenegro: History, Beauty, and Reflections on the Past

Early Morning Departure from Dubrovnik

We were picked up near our hotel in Dubrovnik's Old Town at 6:20 AM and boarded an air-conditioned vehicle for a scenic drive south to Montenegro. The day trip cost us €65 per head, which seems to be the standard rate for full-day tours in Croatia.

The drive along the Adriatic coast was nothing short of magical. With the glittering sea on one side and rugged mountains on the other, the journey was a scenic feast. Our guide added flavor to the ride with fascinating stories and nuggets about Balkan history, culture, and quirks.

Fast Facts

Area: 13,812 km²
Population: Approx. 642,550
Capital: Podgorica
Religion: Around 72–74% are Eastern Orthodox Christians, primarily affiliated with the Serbian Orthodox Church. Islam is practiced by about 19% of the population (mainly Bosniaks, Albanians, and Slavic Muslims).
Language: Montenegrin (very similar to Croatian; uses both Roman and Cyrillic scripts, with subtle variations and some unique letters like ś, ź). They use more Serbian words.
Currency: Euro (€). Montenegro uses the euro (€) as its official currency despite not being a member of the Eurozone. This unique situation arose from its unilateral adoption of the currency. Following the breakup of Yugoslavia, Montenegro unilaterally adopted the German Deutsche Mark (DM) to combat hyperinflation of the Yugoslav dinar. When the euro replaced the DM in 2002, Montenegro swiftly adopted the euro, even though it was not yet a sovereign nation. Montenegro gained full independence in 2006 and has since continued to use the euro as its de facto national currency.
Its economy is considered stable, and the country is a candidate for future EU membership.
Fuel Cost: Approx. €1.50 per liter.

"Monte" means "mountain," and "Negro" means "black" or "dark green," giving you a poetic name that suits the country’s rugged terrain.

The houses here also sport red tiled roofs, similar to Croatia and much of southern Europe.

The car number plates resemble blue EU plates in colour but bear a simple "M" without the EU stars.

Language & Cultural Fusion

The Montenegrin language shares over 97% of its vocabulary with Serbian, Croatian, and Bosnian. Yet, cultural and political identity creates distinct versions. Serbian Cyrillic differs slightly from standard Cyrillic, with four letters unique to the Serbian version. Montenegrin, especially near the Croatian border, leans more toward the Latin script.

Montenegrin vocabulary has been shaped by multiple influences:

Turkish (due to Ottoman rule)
Albanian
German, Austrian, and Hungarian (from Austro-Hungarian influence)

Historical Overview

Montenegro’s roots go back to the Illyrians in the 5th century BC. It became part of the Roman Empire and later came under the Byzantine, Venetian, and Ottoman empires.

Under Roman rule, the region was divided into:

Dalmatia: Covered the Adriatic coastal region, including cities like Salona (near Split) and Dubrovnik.Dalmatia was culturally Greek-influenced and focused on maritime trade. Montenegro was part of Dalmatia.
Pannonia Savia: Covered the northern inland region, including parts of modern Slavonia and Central Croatia. Pannonia Savia was part of the larger Pannonian plain, a strategic Roman frontier bordering the Danube.

This division persisted under Byzantine rule before Slavic migrations (6th–7th centuries) reshaped the region.

The Slavs arrived in the 6th–7th centuries. By the 9th century, the Principality of Duklja emerged, an early Montenegrin state. Napoleon briefly controlled parts of the Balkans, and Austria-Hungary ruled Montenegro and Croatia for about 100 years, leaving behind linguistic and administrative legacies.

Montenegro: A Country Forged Through Centuries

Montenegro’s history is rich, complicated, and deeply intertwined with its Balkan neighbors:

After WWI (1918): Montenegro merged with Serbia and other South Slavic territories to form the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes, later renamed the Kingdom of Yugoslavia in 1929.
During WWII:
- Montenegro was under Italian Fascist administrative control.
- Croatia was declared the Independent State of Croatia (NDH) but functioned as a Nazi puppet regime.
After WWII (1945): Montenegro became one of the six republics of Socialist Yugoslavia under Tito from a Kingdom.
1992–2006: After Yugoslavia's breakup, Montenegro remained in a federation with Serbia—first as the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia (1992–2003), then as Serbia and Montenegro (2003–2006).
2006: Montenegro declared independence on June 3, following a narrow 55.5% vote in a May referendum.

Despite its independence, Montenegro’s involvement in the Siege of Dubrovnik (1991–1992) remains a controversial topic

Geography and Economy

Mountains & Highlands: ~80% of the land (~11,050 km²)
Forests: About 60% of the mountainous area (~8,300 km²)
Agricultural Land: Roughly 40%, but most food is imported
Inland Waters: ~360 km² (2.6%)

Despite its beauty and resources, Montenegro has yet to fully tap into its agricultural potential. According to our guide, Montenegrins are often (perhaps unfairly) labeled "lazy."

Crossing the Border: Into a Hidden Gem

After a smooth passport check at the border, we entered Montenegro and were soon mesmerized by the Bay of Kotor, often called Europe’s southernmost fjord. The landscape featured dramatic cliffs, peaceful villages, and sparkling blue waters.

Stop 1: Kotor – Walled Wonder

We reached Kotor at 8:30 AM, just two hours after departure. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is a medieval jewel nestled between the mountains and the sea.

St. Tryphon Cathedral (1166): A Romanesque masterpiece, with the mountains rising dramatically behind it.
Square of Arms: The main town square, full of cafes and historic buildings.
Venetian Influence: Kotor’s buildings reflect centuries of Venetian rule.
City Walls: The hike to St. John’s Fortress is not for the faint-hearted, but the views are worth every step.

Our guide led us through Kotor for an hour, followed by 2 hours of free time to explore until 11:40 AM.

Stop 2: Perast – Picture-Perfect Baroque

A short drive brought us to Perast, a tranquil town with Baroque buildings and a proud maritime past.

Our Lady of the Rocks: Legend has it that sailors found an icon of the Madonna on a sea rock. After every safe voyage, they dropped stones there, forming an artificial island.
The church, built in 1630, features 70+ paintings and silver votives from sailors.
We took a €10 boat ride to the island, explored the church, and enjoyed its peaceful museum.

There are two islands:

Our Lady of the Rocks: Open to tourists
St. George Island: A private island, closed to visitors

Afterward, we strolled along the waterfront promenade of Perast Bay, soaking in the Adriatic vibes. The town has fewer than 300 residents—a true postcard setting. We stayed until 2:20 PM before heading back.

Drive Back & Deep Discussions

The return journey to Dubrovnik was bathed in golden light. We stuck to the same coastal route, with ever-changing views of mountains and sea. During the ride, our guide offered candid thoughts on the Balkans:

The Balkan Conflicts: Rooted in a mix of ethnic, political, and religious tensions. Many Serbs in Croatia wanted to be part of Serbia; naturally, Croats resisted. Serbia also attempted to annex Bosnia. Religious identity (Orthodox vs. Catholic vs. Muslim) only complicated matters.
Name Game: If a Bosnian moved to Belgrade, even his name would change—Evan becomes Yohan.

Final Thoughts

This day trip to Montenegro was a perfect cocktail of history, coastal charm, and insight into the complexity of the Balkans. Kotor and Perast stole our hearts, and the Bay of Kotor rivaled the French Riviera and Amalfi Coast in beauty.

Booking through Viator made the experience seamless. A day filled with stories, scenery, and soul-stirring landscapes left us with memories that will linger for a lifetime.

Pro Tip:

Sit on the right-hand side of the van while heading to Montenegro and left-hand side while returning for the best Adriatic views.

📍 Tour Link: Montenegro Full-Day Trip from Dubrovnik

Racing the Sun in Dubrovnik

We made it back to Dubrovnik just before sunset. We hurried to the city walls to finish the section we missed the previous day. Though our ticket was technically for one day, we pleaded our case with the gatekeeper. After inspecting our mobile photos (confirming that we are indeed the holder of the ticket and did not get it from somebody else), he kindly let us in.

We completed the walk atop Dubrovnik’s ancient walls just in time to see the terracotta rooftops glowing in the fading light over the Adriatic.

A Note on Food

Dubrovnik is beautiful, but not budget-friendly. A simple 12-inch pizza costs €12, and you’ll struggle to find any meal under that price. Burek or Brik (a pastry snack) became our affordable go-to treat—we had it more than once!

13.10.24

Starting the Journey: From Dubrovnik to Sarajevo

We embarked on a private journey through Bosnia and Herzegovina, arranged by a travel agency called Funky Tour. The tour began in Dubrovnik, Croatia, at 8:00 AM from Boza Gate and led us through some of the most scenic and historically rich parts of the Balkans, ending in Sarajevo, the capital city of Bosnia.

We were the only 3 passengers—a true VIP experience. Our driver-cum-guide was fantastic. What makes this tour unique is that it’s one-way, ending in another city and country, unlike most round trips.

Border Transfer

The first car took us across the Croatian border and dropped us off at a petrol pump in Bosnia. There, we were handed over to another car—our main vehicle for the rest of the journey. Our new guide and driver, Edin, was a seasoned local. While the first driver couldn’t speak English, Edin was articulate, engaging, and full of stories.

Edin had served in the army. During Tito’s time, one year of military training was mandatory. After his year was up, the civil war began, and he was drafted again. He ended up serving five years. Had he served 20 years, he would have received a pension of €250, but since he didn't, he receives nothing. He was even injured by a grenade during the war.

A fun fact from Edin:

In Bosnia, it’s mandatory to drive with low-beam headlights, even during the day—regardless of weather or visibility. Also, he didn’t mince words when he said, “Bosnia is very corrupt.”

About Bosnia and Herzegovina (BiH)

Location and Demographics

BiH is located in the Balkans, bordered by Croatia (north and west), Serbia (east), and Montenegro (southeast). With a population of around 3.3 million, the capital Sarajevo has about 275,000 residents. The per capita income is approximately $8,000 (nominal), placing it in the upper-middle-income bracket.

Geography and Climate

The country spans 51,209 sq km, predominantly mountainous due to the Dinaric Alps.

Bosnia (about 80% of the land): Characterized by dense forests, rugged hills, and river valleys. It lies in a continental climate zone, experiencing harsh winters—sometimes dropping below -30°C. Last winter, it reached -16°C!
Herzegovina (about 20% of the land): Located in the south, this region enjoys a Mediterranean climate. Here, you’ll find grapes, pomegranates, kiwis, oranges, and figs—which simply can’t grow in Bosnia due to the cold.

So yes, you can literally start your day in cloudy Sarajevo and find sunshine in Mostar, just 50 km away. In fact, in July, Mostar became the hottest city in Europe at a sweltering 44°C!

Though not officially divided, the two regions differ significantly in culture, history, and geography. Bosnia and Herzegovina is also nearly landlocked, except for a tiny 20 km stretch of Adriatic Sea coastline.

A Glimpse Into History

BiH has been influenced by the Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans, and Austro-Hungarians. After WWI, it became part of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes.

On June 28, 1914, Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophie were assassinated in Sarajevo by Gavrilo Princip, a member of Young Bosnia. This was the spark that ignited World War I.

After the breakup of Yugoslavia, BiH declared independence in 1992, triggering a brutal war. The Siege of Sarajevo lasted 1,425 days, the longest in modern history.

The Dayton Agreement (1995) ended the war and created a complex political structure with two main entities:

Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina
Republika Srpska

Religion in BiH

BiH is incredibly religiously diverse, reflecting its complex past:

Islam (50%) – Followed by Bosniaks
Eastern Orthodoxy (30%) – Practiced by Serbs
Roman Catholicism (15%) – Followed by Croats
Others (5%) – Includes Jews, Protestants, atheists

A Thought-Provoking Analogy

Our guide Edin shared an eye-opening analogy. During Ottoman rule, everyone was considered "Bosniak Muslim," "Bosniak Orthodox," etc. Post-Ottoman era, Serbia used divide-and-rule tactics, urging Orthodox Bosniaks to join Serbia based on religion.

He compared it to Pakistan calling Indian Muslims 'Indian Pakistanis' and asking them to align with them. “At least Indian Muslims call themselves Indian first,” he said. “In Bosnia, it’s more complicated.”

Even Croatia wasn’t spared—Serbia tried to annex parts of it using similar tactics.

We learnt from our guide that Tito had practiced a softer version of Communism, which allowed Yugoslavs to travel to places like Germany. The money they earned there enabled them to buy German cars and build large houses. Our guide also noted that during Tito's era, many women were named Indira.

Tito, along with leaders such as Nasser, Nehru, and Sukarno etc, was a founder of the Non-Aligned Movement (NAM). He never wanted to join the Eastern Bloc and notably refused to sign the Warsaw Pact, a collective defense treaty established by the Soviet Union as a counterbalance to NATO. Unlike Russia, Tito followed a more liberal form of Communism, which even allowed for the starting of small businesses. Our guide claimed that China later copied this model of Yugoslavian liberal Communism.

Politics and Identity

BiH has a rotating tripartite presidency: Bosniaks, Croats, and Serbs each get a turn every 8 months.

Although most of the government supports Kosovo, the Serbian-led faction prevents official recognition of Kosovo by BiH. It seemed to me their common enemy is Serbians.

The Serbians in BiH consider themselves as Serbian, Croatians here consider themselves Croats. However outside the country, identities are more blended—people refer to themselves as Bosniak Croats, Bosniak Serbs, or even Serbo-Croats depending on their origins.

Currency

Currency: Convertible Mark (BAM)
Fixed Rate: 1 EUR = 1.95583 BAM

Fun Fact:

Outside supermarkets, many vendors accept Euros—but the exchange rate varies. While most offer 2 BAM per Euro, some cheeky vendors give you only 1.5 BAM. So watch out! One bakery tried to scam us with the lower rate, while souvenir shops gave us the full value.

Cultural Legacy

BiH is a crossroads of Islamic, Orthodox, Catholic, and Jewish civilizations. This diversity stems from its position at the crossroads of the Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian and Slavic worlds.While peaceful coexistence once thrived, political manipulation turned diversity into division—especially during the 1990s conflict. When we refer to Bosniaks, we generally mean Muslim Bosniaks, as they are the majority.

Our Journey Through Bosnia

Provalije Waterfall

Our first stop was the picturesque Provalije Waterfall, a hidden gem shrouded in lush greenery. We were re-routed here due to the devastating floods in early October 2024, which caused landslides and road closures.

Fun stat: 86% of Bosnia is mountainous!

Počitelj

A historical town straight out of a storybook. Počitelj's Ottoman fortress, narrow alleys, and views of the Neretva River are unforgettable. We quenched our thirst with freshly squeezed pomegranate juice—when in Herzegovina, drink like the locals!

Kravica Falls

Nicknamed "Mini Niagara," Kravica Falls is a series of majestic waterfalls framed by forest. A peaceful yet powerful spot.

Blagaj Tekke & Buna Spring

This Dervish monastery, nestled beside a cliff and the Buna River Spring, felt like a postcard come to life. We had lunch by the river, feasting on fresh trout and soaking in the peaceful ambiance.

Mostar: The Crown Jewel

Mostar’s Stari Most (Old Bridge) is both a UNESCO site and a powerful symbol of unity and rebuilding. Bombed by Croats during the war, it has since been beautifully reconstructed.

The pebbled streets (yes, not cobblestones) and vibrant bazaars felt more Turkish than Croatian—a noticeable cultural shift.

Skipped Stops: Konjic & Jablanica

Due to flooding, we missed Konjic (famous for its Ottoman bridge) and Jablanica, a WWII site.

Sarajevo: A City That Endures

We reached Sarajevo around 9:00 PM, just in time for early dinner. Called the "Jerusalem of Europe", this city houses mosques, churches, and synagogues within walking distance.

The city still bears the scars of war—from bullet-riddled walls to Sarajevo Roses (shell craters filled with red resin).

Dinner at Baščaršija

We dined near the Baščaršija Square, close to our apartment. It's a smart idea to stay nearby. This square is home to Sebilj, a beautiful Ottoman-style wooden fountain.

After dinner, we strolled the old bazaar, soaking in the vibrant atmosphere.

Final Reflections

Bosnia and Herzegovina is a land of contradictions—breathtaking landscapes alongside haunting memories, diverse religions with a shared history, and people who’ve endured much but welcome you with warmth.

Despite the flooding and detours, the journey was both moving and enlightening. We left with a deeper appreciation for this resilient, culturally rich, and genuinely unique country.

If you ever find yourself wondering whether Bosnia is worth visiting—the answer is a loud, echoing YES.

funkytours.com (Their office is very near our Airbnb, within 150 metres)

14.10.24

A Walking Tour Through Sarajevo: Where Cultures Collide and History Haunts

Starting Point: Sarajevo City Hall (Vijećnica)

Our day began, as Lonely Planet sagely advised, at the far eastern end of the old town—Sarajevo's magnificent City Hall. With its Moorish-revival architecture (think horseshoe arches, almost like Cordoba), it stands proudly along the river. Inside, you'll find the National and University Library of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Sadly, this cultural gem was shelled and set ablaze by Bosnian Serb forces in August 1992 during the Siege of Sarajevo, targeting the city’s Ottoman-Austrian heritage and destroying nearly 2 million priceless books. Thankfully, the building has since been beautifully restored.

There's also a museum inside. What I gathered from our visit is that Bosnia has a deeply layered and complex history—at its core, a conflict among three major religions: Catholicism (Croatia), Orthodoxy (Serbia), and Islam (Bosniaks).

Crossing into the Ottoman-Era Old Town

From the City Hall, we took a short walk to the Seher-Čehaja Bridge, considered the prettiest of the 13 Ottoman bridges in Sarajevo. The name translates to "Mayor’s Bridge," and it offers great views for photo ops.

Baščaršija Square and Sebilj Fountain

Welcome to the beating heart of the old town: Baščaršija Square. Designed by the Ottomans in 1462 as the main marketplace, it still exudes that lively bazaar vibe. At its center stands the famous Sebilj, a wooden Ottoman-style fountain. This is also where you can sip traditional Bosnian coffee (brewed in a copper cezve) while biting into a flaky burek or pita. The square, affectionately known as "Pigeon Square," is always bustling—a great spot for people-watching.

Kazandžiluk (Coppersmith Street)

From Sebilj, we wandered into Kazandžiluk Street, also known as Coppersmith Alley. It still resonates with the clang of hammer on copper. Each shop feels like a tiny museum of handcrafted brilliance.

Baščaršija Mosque

Nearby, we found the Baščaršija Mosque (officially Havadža Durak Mosque), dating back to the early 1500s. Though small, its quiet elegance and age command respect.

Brusa Bezistan

We then visited the Brusa Bezistan, a 16th-century domed market hall originally used for the silk trade. Today, it houses the Sarajevo City History Museum. This covered bazaar reminded us of Istanbul—all it needed was a bit of Turkish delight.

Locksmith Street (Bravadžiluk)

Once the hub for locksmiths, this street is now packed with eateries serving Bosnia's beloved dish, ćevapi—grilled minced meat served with flatbread and raw onions. Come hungry!

Morica Han

From Brusa Bezistan, we headed northeast to Morica Han, a 16th-century Ottoman inn that's been lovingly restored. Today, it functions as a bustling marketplace. The courtyard's calm ambiance offers a nice breather.

Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque

An architectural crown jewel of Sarajevo, the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque (completed in 1532) is widely regarded as the finest example of Ottoman architecture in the Balkans. It’s a peaceful yet grand spiritual space.

Ferhadija Street and Sarajevo Meeting of Cultures

Walking west along pedestrian-friendly Ferhadija Street, we reached the famous "Meeting of Cultures" marker. It’s literally etched into the pavement—a line where East meets West. On one side: wooden Ottoman buildings. On the other: concrete and ornate Austro-Hungarian facades. Suddenly, you’re in Vienna instead of Istanbul.

We initially missed the marker but noticed the architectural shift and backtracked. A must-see!

Tasting Local Delights

We tried a mix of traditional Bosnian dishes: ćevapi, burek, pita, and begova čorba (a thick, hearty soup). The burek was especially tasty. Bonus: everything costs nearly half what you'd pay in Croatia. We had pasta for just 14 BAM (7 Euro), and our driver confirmed what we were thinking—Bosnia is budget-friendly. Even the magnets are cheaper!

Sacred Heart Cathedral

Next, we visited this beautiful neo-Gothic Catholic cathedral, the largest in the country. It adds a Western flourish to the cityscape.

Old Orthodox Church

The 16th-century Old Orthodox Church is built below street level and contains a dazzling iconostasis and upper gallery. It's a small gem tucked away from the noise.

Ashkenazi Synagogue and Emperor’s Mosque

Crossing the river, we viewed the Ashkenazi Synagogue from outside—one of the last active synagogues in Sarajevo. It’s a poignant reminder of the city’s once-thriving Jewish community.

Latin Bridge and Franz Ferdinand

Just beyond the bridge lies the Museum of Sarajevo 1878–1918, which dives into the Austro-Hungarian period and, of course, the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophie in 1914. This event by Gavrilo Princip sparked World War I. There is a small museum nearby that you can visit, to learn more about this event. The assassination stemmed from resistance to Austro-Hungarian expansion. Austria retaliated against BiH , France and Britain responded against Austria, and the rest is war history.

Nearby, you'll find the National Theatre and Academy of Fine Arts. Gorgeous riverside strolls await.

Optional Excursions We Missed

Though tempting, we skipped the 1.5-hour Tunnel Museum Tour and 1-hour War History Walk. Also on the list but missed:

The Franciscan Church of Saint Anthony of Padua
Sarajevo Brewery (a perfect beer stop!)
Sarajevo Cable Car to Mount Trebević (offering sweeping views)
The graffiti-covered bobsled track from the Winter Olympics

Eternal Flame & War Childhood Museum

North of Morica Han (about 450 meters), we visited the Eternal Flame, a touching World War II memorial. Nearby is the War Childhood Museum, a deeply moving tribute to the experiences of children during the Bosnian War.

Kovači Memorial Cemetery & Yellow Fortress

Up on the opposite hillside (accessed from Pigeon Square), we found the Kovači Memorial Cemetery, final resting place for soldiers killed during the 1992–95 conflict. Keep walking uphill to reach the Yellow Fortress—not actually yellow, but the views are golden. Beyond that lies the White Fortress, though we skipped it due to time constraints (and the entry fee).

Evening in Sarajevo

Baščaršija Square sparkles at night. We grabbed some sweets—baklava and lokum (Turkish delight)—and enjoyed a leisurely walk along the river. We ended our Sarajevo adventure with a hearty Bosnian dinner. I spent 15 BAM (~7.5 Euro), while Arindam and Mohua each paid 12 BAM.

Departure: Onward to Belgrade

We hopped on tram No. 6 to get near the bus station (Tram No. 3 goes directly - but we did not wait for it). From the tram stop, it was a 5-minute walk. Our 9:00 PM bus to Belgrade was… well, not exactly luxury. At 11:00 PM we had to change buses.

Fun first: for the first time in my life, I paid a separate 1 BAM per head for luggage and 2 BAM as a station fee to validate our tickets. (I paid a similar station fee in Malaysia.)

At 2:00 AM we crossed the Bosnia-Serbia border, got our exit stamp from Bosnia, drove a few hundred meters, and received our Serbian entry stamp.

And thus, our incredible Sarajevo story came to an end. Next stop: Belgrade!

https://jetsettingfools.com/sarajevo-sights-what-to-see/

https://adventurousmiriam.com/things-to-do-in-sarajevo-bosnia/

https://bbqboy.net/a-guide-to-sarajevo-and-all-the-reasons-why-its-worth-visiting/

15.10.24

Belgrade, Serbia: A Walk Through History, Grit

Arrival in Belgrade: A Nostalgic Tram Ride We arrived in Belgrade bright and early at 6:15 am. Our hotel was supposedly right in front of the old bus station. But surprise! The old station had moved to a new one – Antifašistička – which sounds more like a revolutionary slogan than a bus stop. So, off we went on Tram No. 7 or 9 for a 15-minute rickety journey that instantly reminded me of Kolkata's own vintage trams.

Currency exchanges in this part of the world are like mushrooms after rain – they pop up at every train or bus station. We paid 50 RSD (about Rs. 40) at the tram. You cannot pay Euro in the tram. Also, we paid 100 RSD to use the toilet at the station – welcome to Serbia!

Thankfully, the apartment owner let us check in a little early. We were picked up from the listed hostel (apparently just a decoy address) by his car. It is 800-900 meters away.

Introducing Serbia: Geography and the Neighbours Serbia is a landlocked country in the heart of the Balkans in Southeast Europe. It shares borders with a long list of neighbors: Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, North Macedonia, Croatia, Bosnia & Herzegovina, and Montenegro.

Covering an area of 88,361 square kilometers – roughly the size of West Bengal – Serbia is a patchwork of fertile plains, forested hills, and mountains. Its capital, Belgrade, stands proudly where the Sava and Danube Rivers meet. Nicknamed the "White City," it's the cultural, economic, and political beating heart of the nation.

Demographics and Economy

Population (2023): ~6.7 million
Belgrade: ~1.7 million
Per Capita Income (2024 est.): ~$12,500 USD
Currency: Serbian Dinar (RSD)
Exchange rate: 100 RSD = ~80 INR

A Quick History Lesson (With Drama, Of Course)

Ancient & Medieval Era

Originally inhabited by Thracians, Dacians, and Illyrians (modern-day Albanians).
Became part of the Roman Empire.
Slavic tribes arrived in the 6th-7th centuries, forming the base of modern Serbian identity.
The Serbian Kingdom flourished in the 12th century and peaked under Stefan Dušan in the 14th century as the Serbian Empire.
Post the Battle of Kosovo in 1389, the Ottomans ruled for nearly 500 years.

Ottoman & Austrian Tug-of-War

Despite Ottoman rule, Serbia held onto Orthodox Christianity and its identity.
After a few uprisings, Serbia became autonomous in 1817 and gained full independence by 1878.

20th Century Roller Coaster

WWII: Faced Axis occupation and massive suffering.
Post WWI: Serbia became part of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes
Tito's socialist Yugoslavia followed, with Belgrade as the capital.After the war, Serbia became a part of socialist Yugoslavia under Josip Broz Tito and played a significant role in the Non-Aligned Movement. The official language was Serbo-Croatian. Our guide explained that it was, in essence, a single language with multiple dialects, much like Portuguese and Galician. However, it was later divided into separate languages—Serbian and Croatian—following the breakup of Yugoslavia.
Language was Serbo-Croatian (like Portuguese and Galician – same roots, later divorced).
The 1990s: Yugoslavia broke apart. Serbia was hit with wars, sanctions, and NATO bombings (1999) during the Kosovo conflict.

Modern Serbia

Montenegro split in 2006.
Serbia is now a parliamentary republic, seeking EU membership but grappling with Kosovo-related issues.

Belgrade: One of Europe’s Oldest Cities

7,000+ years old. Started as a Celtic settlement, later Roman (Singidunum).
Emperor Constantine the Great was born in Niš (Naissus back then).
Tossed around between Byzantines, Bulgarians, Hungarians, and Serbs.
Became the Serbian capital in the 15th century.
Ottoman vs. Habsburg wars turned Belgrade into a frontier city.
Devastated in both World Wars. Rebuilt in socialist style.
Today: A city that blends gritty history, architecture, and electric nightlife.

Belgrade City Tour: Our Day in the White City

Kalemegdan Fortress and Park We kicked off our day at the fortress where the mighty Sava and Danube rivers kiss. Just a 15-minute walk from our hotel, this elevated spot offers sweeping views, weathered walls, old cannons, and a park filled with sculptures and tales of ancient battles. Roman vs. Ottoman vibes dominate here. Fun fact: when the Romans triumphed over the Ottomans, the Pope was so thrilled he ordered a bell to be rung every day at noon – a tradition that continues.

The Victor Monument Within the fortress stands The Victor – a heroic statue and Belgrade’s unofficial mascot. From here, the view of the rivers is nothing short of majestic.

St. Petka’s Chapel and Ružica Church Down a flight of steps from The Victor, we visited this charming chapel and fortress-like church decorated with chandeliers made of bullets. It’s rustic, solemn, and surprisingly photogenic.

Knez Mihailova Street Next, we walked along this pedestrian street lined with shops, cafes, and neoclassical facades. It leads to Republic Square. We skipped the Zepter Museum (which apparently has impressive local art), but the stroll itself was charming.

A Surprise Reunion Out of the blue, we bumped into Isabella and her mother – who’ve visited our house in Kolkata number of times ! Small world. They were also touring Belgrade and recommended Zerko for a North Serbia tour.

Tour Planning Shenanigans We hunted down the Tourism Office, which looked more like a post office. They tried helping but were mostly clueless about actual tour availability. On Isabella's suggestion, we called Zerko, who offered a full-day North Serbia tour (Petrovaradin Fortress, monasteries, wine tasting, Sremski Karlovci, and Novi Sad) for 50 Euros per person.

Caveat: To get there, we need Tram No. 36 to reach the train station for an 08:09 am train to Novi Sad. But no one seems to know where this mysterious tram starts, due to demolition of old tram station near our hotel – it’s like a Serbian treasure hunt! The person, Zerko, will show us Petrovaradin fortress, 3 monasteries, stop in Sremski Karlovsci old Town, wine tasting and Novi Stad old town. He will charge 50 Euro each for 3 people.

Republic Square (Trg Republike) Back in the city centre, we admired the National Museum and National Theatre flanking the square. A cultural epicenter, buzzing with activity.

Skadarlija: Bohemian Rhapsody We wandered into Skadarlija – Belgrade’s Montmartre – with cobblestone alleys, vintage cafes, street art, and a timeless charm. Ideal for romantic selfies or moody coffee sipping.

Evening Wind-Down After a long day, we headed back to the apartment, picked up dinner from a local supermarket, and rested our tired feet. Tomorrow: Novi Sad adventures await!

16.10.24

An Unexpected Change of Plans: The Not-So-Northern Tour

I had to muster up every ounce of courage to break the news to Zerko: neither of my companions was in a state to explore Northern Serbia after our sleepless night on the bus. Exhausted and mildly grumpy (understandably), they declared mutiny against the tour plan. To make matters worse, our accommodation situation wasn’t exactly seamless. Though we had initially booked one hotel, the owner had graciously (read: confusingly) shifted us to another apartment 800 metres away.

Now, we had to check out early in the morning, lug our bags back to the original place, and pray they'd allow us to stash our luggage for the day. We were explicitly told we couldn't leave bags in the apartment. Naturally, this chaos shaved an hour off their already limited sleep. Add to that the uncertainty around storing our luggage, and our ambitious day trip to Sremski Karlovci and Novi Sad went straight out the window.

The (Cancelled) Tour That Could Have Been

Here’s what we missed out on:

Tour of Sremski Karlovci and Novi Sad – the No. 1 tour from Belgrade, as per

https://www.viator.com/tours/Belgrade/Northern-Serbia-Pannonia-Legacy-Full-Day-Tour-from-Belgrade/d22817-44140P6

Cost: Only Rs. 5,600 per person. A steal for what was on offer:

Discover the wild landscapes and rich cultural heritage of Northern Serbia
Admire the beautiful baroque architecture of Sremski Karlovci
Visit the magnificent Petrovaradin Fortress on the Danube
Explore historic Novi Sad, Serbia’s second-largest city
Enjoy a local wine tasting session

Sremski Karlovci This serene Baroque town looks like it's been frozen in time. But don’t be fooled—it has a big historical footprint. In 1699, the Treaty of Karlowitz was signed here between the Ottoman Empire and various European powers, effectively halting the Ottoman expansion into Europe.

Novi Sad Often dubbed the "Serbian Athens," Novi Sad is Serbia's second-largest city and a former cultural hub of Serbs during the Austro-Hungarian era. With its Austro-European charm, intellectual legacy, and lively spirit, it's a place we really wanted to see. But alas, our dreams were left for another day.

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Alternate Tour Recommendation

https://www.viator.com/tours/Belgrade/Gems-of-Eastern-Serbia/d22817-73323P9 or https://www.viator.com/tours/Belgrade/Blue-Danube-Tour/d22817-73323P8

This one should be our second choice i.e. Gems of Eastern Serbia.

If you're staying another day, consider the Gems of Eastern Serbia Tour:

Cost: Rs. 9,200.

Includes:

Manasija Monastery
Resavska Cave
Krupaj Spring

Plan B: Exploring Belgrade Proper

Since Plan A collapsed, we pivoted to a more relaxed exploration of Belgrade. After starting the day at a more human hour (9:30 AM), we walked to St. Michael's Cathedral (Saborna Crkva), one of the most important Orthodox churches in the country. Adjacent to it is the Patriarchate, the administrative seat of the Serbian Orthodox Church.

Next, we made our way to Bajrak-li Mosque. No, not "Bajrakali" (বজ্রকালি নয়) as we initially misheard! It is the only remaining mosque in Belgrade and a quiet reminder of the city's Ottoman past.

Tram Ride, Local Style

After that, we bought tickets for the Sava River Cruise (scheduled at 6 PM). With time to kill, we hopped on Tram No. 2 for a DIY city tour. This tram does a loop around Belgrade, covering major tourist spots like Kalemegdan Fortress, the Old Town, and Slavija Square. Tickets are just 50 RSD (Rs. 40), valid for 90 minutes. It takes around 45 minutes to do complete on tour. We did the entire loop twice without getting off—a great way to soak in the city's vibe.

Pro tip: Trams here are charmingly old-school—mostly red or green—and rumor has it, locals often skip buying tickets (not recommended for tourists!).

The Sava River Cruise: Belgrade from the Water

At 3:30 PM, we met our group near Mihailova Street. The cruise began at 4 PM. As we floated along, we soaked in Belgrade’s skyline and landmarks, including:

Kalemegdan Fortress
Zemun (once a separate city, now a Belgrade suburb)
The enormous Church of Saint Sava (Hram Svetog Save), one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world

As the boat veered left into the Danube River (Europe’s second-longest after the Volga), the landscape shifted dramatically. On the Danube’s far side, we saw sparsely populated areas dotted with wooden summer houses owned by the affluent (and possibly a few police officers, according to our guide’s mischievous tone). Many had private piers. Permanent construction is allegedly prohibited here—though some bending of the rules seems to happen.

We turned near Zemun and cruised past New Belgrade, a grid of high-rises and financial institutions built on what used to be a swamp. Our cruise ended at 6 PM at Kalemegdan.

Dinner and Regrets

We grabbed dinner at a cozy Italian restaurant but missed visiting several noteworthy museums:

Zepter Museum: Modern and contemporary art
Nikola Tesla Museum: Home to Tesla’s inventions and personal items
Museum of Yugoslavia: Where Marshal Tito's Mausoleum is located

Travel Tip: If museums are on your list, buy a Belgrade Card. It offers discounted entries and free public transport.

In Summary: While we missed our original day trip, Belgrade more than made up for it with its vibrant culture, river views, old-world trams, and memorable encounters.

The lesson? Sometimes, Plan B turns out to be just as good.

Night Bus to Skopje: An Adventure of Its Own

https://jetsettingfools.com/8-things-to-do-in-belgrade-serbia/

Later, we caught Tram 7/9 to reach Antifašistička Bus Station (still under construction) for our 9:30 PM night bus to Skopje, North Macedonia.

Platform surcharge? 300 RSD! (Yes, really.)

17.10.24

Skopje, North Macedonia > Pristina, Kosovo>Prizren, Kosovo

Skopje to Prizren: A Balkan Adventure Full of Surprises

Our ride was far from boring. We had to disembark several times for border formalities. One officer scrutinized Arindam’s visa with a magnifying glass, convinced something was off!

But the real show-stealer was a drunk passenger. He sipped alcohol non-stop, annoyed fellow passengers, and tried to strike up a conversation with Mohua—who was understandably terrified. When he went to the loo, I performed a secret operation: emptied half the chips he'd left open on his seat. On his next restroom break, he sealed his backpack with a chain!

He also knew the opening line of the Hindi song "Bole Chudiyan, Bole Kangana" and kept shouting nonsensical things like "Telepankala... Pankali!" Arindam found the whole episode hilarious and still breaks into laughter every time we talk about it. But Mohua was petrified then.

Arrival in Skopje: Dancing into North Macedonia

We reached Skopje at 5:30 AM—yes, ahead of schedule! Skopje is pronounced as Skop-yeah. To celebrate, we danced to Yeh Dosti from Sholay on the platform with the drunkard ! A perfect desi start to a Balkan day.

But our spirits were quickly tested: we had a hard time finding our apartment. Ironically, it was just opposite the bus station. Unfortunately, at that hour, no one was around to help us. The few early risers—mostly labourers—either didn’t understand English or were scared to speak it.

My guess: they weren’t illegal immigrants, they just feared English more than border patrol. Some good Samaritans tried calling our host, but the directions didn’t help much. Finally, after 1.5 hours of wandering and wild guesses, the owner came by car, apologetic and helpful. Her English was excellent, and she was surprised we had so much trouble—turns out, most people in North Macedonia do speak decent English. Probably not the 5 AM variety though.

Apartment Etiquette: Skopje Style

The apartment wasn’t ready—the current guest would check out at 11:00 AM. So, she kept our luggage in her car’s dickey. She shared the password to the lockbox (very common here), promising to shift our bags into the room post-cleanup.

Off to Kosovo: Skopje to Pristina by Minivan

We heard there was a minivan leaving for Pristina, the capital of Kosovo, in 20 minutes—8:00 AM sharp. We dashed across the road to the bus station. Direct buses to Prizren are rare—only one at 4:00 PM. So, we had no option but to go via Pristina.

The distance between Skopje and Pristina is just ~90 km, but the journey takes 2 to 2.5 hours. Ticket prices vary, but ours cost €9 each. We bought it over the counter. We exchanged €50 at the station (1 MKD = 1.5 INR) and boarded what felt like a Tata Winger disguised as a European minivan.

From Pristina to Prizren: Modern Meets Medieval

Pristina greeted us with the vibe of a modern European city. Buses to Prizren run frequently, and we waited only 15–20 minutes for our 10:35 AM ride. The road was mountainous, dotted with European-style red-tiled houses. We reached Prizren at 12:35 PM.

Prizren: A Charming Echo of the Past

If Pristina is the modern face of Kosovo, Prizren is a glimpse into the past. The preserved city center of Prizren is made up of cobblestone streets, ancient mosques, centuries old churches and numerous bridges that for ages have straddled the Prizren Bistrica River.

Walking from the bus station to the Old Town is easy—you’ll pass a charming stream (they call it a river). The cobblestone streets, medieval mosques, Orthodox churches, and scenic bridges feel straight out of a storybook. The imposing fortress on the hill watches over it all.

Kosovo : Small in Size, Big in Character

Area: 10,887 km² (1/8th of West Bengal)
Population: ~1.8 million
Currency: Euro (€)
Median Age: 29 (youngest in Europe)

Economy: A Balancing Act

Per Capita Income: $5,400–6,000 (about twice India’s)
Prices: Surprisingly European, which must be tough for locals, since prices are somewhat like Europe
Unemployment: ~25%, Youth Unemployment: ~50%
Remittances: 20% of GDP (thanks to diaspora in Germany & Switzerland)

Despite the challenges, people were well-mannered and helpful. Kosovo remains the cheapest European country I’ve visited.

Language & Script

In Kosovo, signage is mostly in Roman script—no Cyrillic like Serbia. English is widely understood, especially in tourist info centers. In Serbia, both English and Cyrillic are taught, but in many places, we only saw Cyrillic. It is surprising since Serbia consider Kosovo part of Serbia.

Kosovo's Unique Culture

Ethnic Makeup: ~90% Albanians, with Serbs, Bosniaks, Gorani, Turks.We have heard about the Illyrians many times. Actually, Albanians are descendants of the Illyrians.
Religion: Mostly Muslim (~95%), with some Orthodox Christians ( 4%) and Catholics
Women: Appear quite modern, few wear hijab (unlike Bosnia or Malaysia)

Empty Homes

A significant proportion of Kosovars live and work abroad, especially in Germany, Switzerland, and other EU countries. It is estimated that approximately one million Kosovars live abroad, primarily in Germany and Switzerland. Remittances from this large diaspora are a major support for the economy. As a result of this emigration, many rural houses remain empty for most of the year. Like in many other parts of the former Yugoslavia, we did not see any Bangladeshis here.

Football Fame: Kosovo to the World

Xherdan Shaqiri: Born in Gjilan, Kosovo. Played for Switzerland (ex-Liverpool, Bayern)
Granit Xhaka: Born in Podujevo, Kosovo. Swiss captain (ex-Arsenal, now Bayer Leverkusen)

I always liked these players but never realized their Balkan roots. Their features didn’t quite match typical European profiles.

Terrain & Settlement

Kosovo is a predominantly mountainous and hilly country with fertile valleys. Major urban areas like Pristina, Prizren, and Peja are hubs of business and education, while large rural areas have sparse populations. It appears that train service in Kosovo and North Macedonia is very limited, likely due to the mountainous terrain.

No Trains, Just Curves

Kosovo and North Macedonia are mountainous, so trains are rare. Even Croatia has limited rail options.

Key Challenges

The political tensions are primarily due to Serbia's refusal to recognize Kosovo's independence. This non-recognition is a significant obstacle, and it is also supported by five EU states. As a result, one cannot travel directly between Serbia and Kosovo, which made our tour very difficult and required us to take a roundabout route to reach the country.

Prizren: Layers of History

First mentioned in the 2nd century AD, Prizren has been claimed by Romans, Byzantines, Bulgarians, Serbs, and Ottomans.

In 1912, following the First Balkan War, Prizren became part of the Kingdom of Serbia. It was later occupied by the Kingdom of Bulgaria in 1916, and in 1918, it was incorporated into the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes—renamed the Kingdom of Yugoslavia in 1929.

After the disintegration of Yugoslavia in the early 1990s, Prizren remained a part of Serbia, within the Province of Kosovo. When Kosovo declared independence in 2008, Prizren emerged as the second-largest city in the newly formed country.

A City Shaped by Empires

Prizren’s architectural landscape and urban planning have been deeply influenced by its various rulers. The Serbs built Orthodox churches, while the Ottomans constructed mosques. With each regime change, communities were often displaced or, tragically, eliminated.

We visited the famous Sinan Pasha Mosque—one of the city's iconic landmarks. What struck us was the peaceful coexistence of mosque and church, standing side by side—something not commonly seen in Bosnia. However, the number of mosques, I think, is at least five times greater than that of churches. Despite this, the city exudes the charm of an old European town rather than a Middle Eastern one. A striking feature of all the mosques here is their slender, towering minarets piercing the skyline.

Ethnic Tensions and Demographics

Ethnic tensions still simmer beneath the surface—especially between Albanians and Serbs. Today, more than 80% of Prizren’s population is Albanian. Other communities include Bosniaks, Turks, and Roma, but very few Serbs remain in the city.

Shadows of Recent Violence

Although Prizren was largely spared during the 1999 Kosovo War, it witnessed a painful episode in 2004. An ethnic Albanian uprising targeted the remaining Serbian population. During the unrest, 7 historic Serbian Orthodox churches were destroyed—including the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Our Lady of Ljeviš, originally built in 1307. The hillside Serbian neighbourhood was also severely damaged, with homes looted and set ablaze.

A Chat with a Local

We met an ethnic Albanian boy—passionate, nationalist, and quite a character. He does not know about Kolkata, but when I said I am from Eastern Region, he said , so you are from Bengal ! He knew about Mother Teresa's birthplace and wasn't thrilled that it was now occupied by Albanian Muslims, despite being one himself. He wasn’t on Facebook (had destroyed his phone in anger!) but took my email. I never heard back.

Our guide cum driver in Bosnia once told us: If you put an Albanian Muslim, an Albanian Christian, and a Bosnian Muslim in a room, the two Albanians will side with each other bypassing their religion. Now that’s some serious nationalism!

The Walking Tour of Prizren

From the bus station, we strolled through the charming Old Town and hiked up to the fortress.

Breakfast at a local bakery (think Monginis, Kolkata-style):

Wrap: €1
Burger: €1.30
Cheese Burek: €1.10
Gelato: €0.80 (cheapest in Europe!)

According to the Tourism Department, Prizren boasts “15 historic sights.” In reality, many of them are closed to visitors—but they’re still worth viewing from the outside. Some remain in ruins, and most entrances are sealed with padlocks, barbed wire, or the occasional sleepy guard in a shack. Despite this, walking around and soaking in the atmosphere—passing churches, mosques, and other relics of the past—helps one grasp the city’s layered history.

We didn’t see many tourists, except for one large Malaysian group (the women wore hijab). Interestingly, most local Muslim women in Kosovo don’t seem to wear hijab.

The locals were friendly—someone even asked if Arindam was from Africa! A few asked if we were from India, which surprisingly hadn’t happened in Croatia or Serbia.

We picked up a few souvenirs and were intrigued to find images of Mother Teresa. Makes sense—she was born in Skopje and was ethnically Albanian. We faced no language issues in the shops.

Return to Skopje: The Great Balkan Hop

We couldn’t cover every single site, but we managed all the major ones before heading back to Skopje via two buses. After two hours of wandering (including quick breaks), we caught the 3:35 PM bus to Pristina (€5)—with multiple stops, just like India. From Pristina, we hopped onto a 6:00 PM minivan bound for Skopje.

The roads were narrow and traffic was slow, but thanks to meticulous planning, everything worked out smoothly.

Our apartment owner had already placed our luggage inside and left the key in a lockbox. The system worked like a charm.

Dinner Diaries in Skopje

We wrapped up the day with a sumptuous dinner at a charming local restaurant. Shockingly, the bill for 3 of us (1,200 MKD ≈ ₹1,800) was cheaper than a similar meal back home in Kolkata.

Menu highlights:

Caesar Salad
Pork Roast
Lemon Butter Chicken
Omelette

Tour Option (If You're Not on a Budget)

Viator offers a private day tour from Skopje covering both Pristina and Prizren:

🔗 Viator Tour Link i.e. https://www.viator.com/tours/Skopje/Skopje-Kosovo-tour/d26711-29882P4

They include stops at:

Monastery of Gračanica in Pristina
Kosovo National Library in Pristina
Carshi Mosque in Pristina
Gazimestan Tower in Pristina
Prizren Old Town

But the price? A bit steep: ₹30,000 for one person, ₹41,000 for three. We weren’t sure we’d be back in time, so opted for the DIY route using local buses.

Also, we’d read that Pristina isn’t all that exciting—so if budget is a concern, skipping it might not be a huge loss.

Total cost? A fraction of the tour—and 10 times the experience.

GetYourGuide offers a cheaper option than Viator, but nothing beats the DIY thrill.

https://www.getyourguide.com/skopje-l2398/from-skopjekosovo-in-a-day-group-tour-to-pristina-prizren-t920408/?ranking_uuid=a0411dca-d902-41c3-bfcb-741c8eb90a71

https://jetsettingfools.com/a-guide-to-visiting-prizren-kosovo/

See the route on Google Maps - https://www.google.hr/

18.10.24 (Friday)

Skopje,North Macedonia > Ohrid, North Macedonia

Ohrid, North Macedonia: A DIY Day Trip with Drama, Delays & Delight

Planning the Ohrid Tour

There are two ways to visit Lake Ohrid from Skopje: either join an organized tour or do it yourself with a FlixBus. We chose the latter for freedom and frugality. Unlike our Prizren trip (which doesn’t have a FlixBus connection from Skopje and had to book the ticket over the counter), we booked our Ohrid tickets from India. We were supposed to leave at 7:00 AM and reach by 10:30 AM. But, the bus was fashionably late—by a full two hours!

An Accidental Skopje Morning Tour

We made the most of the delay by taking an impromptu city stroll. While Mohua rested at the bus station, Arindam and I wandered into central Skopje. The journey felt like walking through a surreal stage set. Pirate ships-turned-restaurants sat along the Vardar River like props from a quirky theatre production. A bright red double-decker bus (straight out of London!) zoomed by, adding a surreal charm.

We admired houses lining the Vardar and, in a moment of desperation, I even used an abandoned ship for a quick "nature break" (don’t judge—desperate times!).

Everyone here knows Mother Teresa, born in Skopje, even though she was Albanian. We proudly told people we were from her city. We found the Mother Teresa Church and admired the statue of Alexander the Great in the main square—a larger-than-life figure in a city full of statues of Macedonian/Greek kings and philosophers. It felt like someone had taken a European history book and turned it into a sculpture park.

Skopje surprised us with its character and contradictions. What we expected to be a sleepy capital turned out to be an eccentric, theatrical delight.

For Skopje tour read this very nice blog - https://bbqboy.net/wild-wacky-skopje-macedonia-one-strangest-places-weve/

Finally to Ohrid

We reached in time to the Sopje bus stop. Our FlixBus finally left at 9:00 AM and reached Ohrid at 12:30 PM after a scenic 3.5-hour journey south. We had a tea break en route in foggy hills that felt straight out of Darjeeling's Hill Cart Road.

At Ohrid Bus Station, we were charged a platform fee of 30 MKD (about ₹45). No ticket, no entry. Our return bus was rescheduled to 6:00 PM (instead of 4:00 PM), so we got the ticket stamped at the FlixBus counter. I also asked the official to scribble his phone number on it—better safe than stranded!

A Quick Glimpse into North Macedonia

Locals pronounce it "Makidonia."

Area: ~25,713 km² (about one-third of West Bengal)
Population: ~1.8 million or 2% of West Bengal
Currency: Macedonian Denar (MKD); 1 MKD ≈ 1.5 INR
Per Capita Income: ~$7,500–8,000 - which is 2.5x India

Despite the numbers, the country doesn’t look poor or shabby. In fact, it felt like any other European country, only much more affordable. Along with Kosovo, it was the cheapest place we've been to in Europe!

Language & People

Primary language: Macedonian (Cyrillic script),a South Slavic language.

Secondary language: Albanian

Most hoardings are in both Cyrillic and English. By the second day, we realized people generally understood English. Locals are extremely courteous.

Industries & Agriculture

Main Industries: Textiles, food processing, chemicals, iron & steel, tourism
Key Crops: Grapes (for wine), tobacco, vegetables, fruits, cereals

Ethnic Mosaic & Religion

Macedonian Slavs (~64%)
Albanians (~25%)
Turks, Roma, Serbs, and others

Religion: Mostly Eastern Orthodox (~65%) with a sizable Muslim minority (~33%).

The call to prayer (Azan) can be heard in many towns—a rare occurrence in Europe. We have heard it in Kosovo also. Ohrid has both churches and mosques; we saw more churches by the lake.

Migration & Terrain

It’s a mountainous country with beautiful valleys and lakes. A large chunk of the population works abroad, mainly in Germany, Italy, and Switzerland.

History 101

Ancient tribes: Illyrians, Thracians, Paionians
Became part of Macedon (Philip II and Alexander the Great) by 4th Century BC.
Later absorbed into Roman and Byzantine Empires, after the Macedonian Empire's decline

Ohrid in History

Ancient name: It was known as Lychnidos, a significant town on the Via Egnatia, the Roman road connecting the Adriatic with Byzantium (modern Istanbul)
Medieval Period : Flourished under First Bulgarian Empire (9th–10th centuries).Tsar Samuel made it his religious & cultural capital
Ohrid was famous for its literary school, established by Saint Clement and Saint Naum of Ohrid, disciples of Saints Cyril and Methodius. It became a major center of Slavic literacy and Orthodox theology.
After the fall of the First Bulgarian Empire, the region came under Byzantine rule again.
In the 13th–14th centuries, parts of the region were contested by Serbian, Byzantine, and later Ottoman forces.
By the late 14th century, Ottoman Turks began their domination, and the region gradually fell under Ottoman control, lasting until the early 20th century.

Modern Identity Crisis: Macedonia vs Greece

North Macedonia was part of the former Yugoslavia which included what are now Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Kosovo and Montenegro. As part of Yugoslavia it was recognized as the Socialist Republic of Macedonia, one of 6 republics in the country. After Yugoslavia's breakup in 1991, the country named itself "Republic of Macedonia," irking Greece, which has a northern region called Macedonia.

Due to this, Greece doesn’t recognize "North Macedonia." . However now Greece officially recognizes North Macedonia following the Prespa Agreement (2018). The country even had to change its flag in 1995 and the official name is now "North Macedonia" (UN: Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia). Local Macedonians laugh at the absurdity.

Macedonia and Greece have also fought a war of words over over historical figures that North Macedonia has incorporated, but that Greece considers part of their history and culture.You’ll see monuments of him (and his father Philip II) in the city, including his monumental statue in the main square (Macedonia Square).

The real fight?

Alexander the Great. Both Greece and North Macedonia claim him. He was born in present-day Greek Macedonia (i.e. in today's Greece), but the old Kingdom of Macedon included regions from modern-day Greece, Bulgaria, and North Macedonia and that Greece shouldn’t have exclusive proprietorship of his name.

Alexander spoke a dialect of Greek (Macedonian Greek). His tutor Aristotle taught him Attic Greek (the dialect of Athens).His conquests spread Attic Greek as the administrative and cultural language. After his death, this evolved into Koine Greek, the "common tongue" of the Hellenistic world (used from Egypt to India).This influence lasted for centuries, becoming the language in which the New Testament was eventually written and helping shape the cultural and intellectual life across the Eastern Mediterranean and Near East.

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Exploring Ohrid

The Ohrid bus station is a mere 1.2 km from the lake. We walked past cobbled streets and narrow alleys, soaking in the town’s old-world charm.There is walking tour of Ohrid, given in LP.

Ali Pasha Mosque: 18th-century Ottoman mosque, now a cultural center.
Robevci House Museum: A traditional Ottoman house turned museum (entry fee applies).
Workshop For Handmade Paper (Ljupcho Panevski): Ohrid has been producing paper since the 16th century, and this museum-shop houses one of only two surviving replicas of the Gutenberg Press in the world. Knowledgeable staff demonstrate the traditional paper-making process in fluent English.
Church of St. Sophia: Byzantine beauty with amazing frescoes. Entry fee required. Eastern Orthodox architecture unlike anything we’d seen before.

We met a Protestant pastor who claimed Macedonian is the world’s oldest script—2300 years old, used even by Alexander. He said Cyrillic was derived from it. Perhaps an overstatement, but passionate nonetheless!

We skipped the uphill walk to Plaosnik and Church of St. Clement & Panteleimon, but it’s highly recommended.

Walk along the Lakeside Promenade : We enjoyed a leisurely walk along the lakeside promenade.

Sveti Jovan (Church of St. John) at Kaneo

Perched on a cliff, this church is THE postcard shot of Ohrid. It’s the cover of Lonely Planet, and deservedly so. The serenity, the lake backdrop—breathtaking.This is the most picturesque church I have visited to date, with the lake as its stunning backdrop. The surrounding areas are serene and breathtaking.

We did not have time to go to Samuil's Fortress. From this ancient fortress one can enjoy panoramic views of the city and Lake Ohrid.

Ancient Theatre of Ohrid

Our last stop before the rains came pouring down. A Hellenistic amphitheatre with a stunning view and echoes of history.

Souvenirs & Gelato

Before heading back, we picked up souvenirs and had what might be Europe’s cheapest gelato. Also enjoyed a Burek for just €1.10.

Return to Skopje & Accommodation Drama

Back at the bus station by 6:00 PM, we reached Skopje at 9:30 PM. The apartment owner's husband came to hand over our luggage—which had been stuffed into the car boot because new guests had arrived. We had a very unpleasant exchange of words due to our late arrival. We tried to explain that it wasn’t our fault, as the bus had departed late. Additionally, we had informed his wife at the time of booking, that on 18.10.24 that we planned to check out in the morning and leave our luggage at the reception.

Travel Tip: Avoid booking apartments if you plan to store luggage post-checkout. With no reception, logistics can get messy.

Airport Transfer

Vardar Ekspres runs buses from the city centre (opposite our apartment) to Skopje Airport (24 km away).Tickets can be purchased at the bus station and must be paid for in local currency. There's a small, inexpensive restaurant at the bus station itself. Since the station is directly opposite our apartment, it was extremely convenient
Fare: MKD 200 (~₹300). Takes ~30 mins.
Buses match flight schedules (except early mornings).

We took the 12:30 AM bus—barely 6 passengers inside.

Packing Olympics

Our flight with Serbian Airlines (a budget carrier) left at 4:10 AM. With a strict 8 kg hand-luggage rule, we played Tetris with our belongings:

Checked weight 7 times and transferred some stuff from suitcase to my 15 litre backpack
I wore 3-4 shirts.
Arindam stuffed chargers and other things into his pockets.

Success!

Final Thoughts

Ohrid is a gem. Even with delays, disagreements, and dramatic luggage arrangements, it remains one of our most beautiful memories of the Balkans. Affordable, walkable, packed with history and charm—we couldn't have asked for more.

We were incredibly lucky on this tour. We got to see Helsinki only because our flight was delayed, which was not part of our original plan. In Venice, we met our Italian friend Sarah completely by chance. Our luck continued in Zagreb, where we met Giacomo and Ana, and in Belgrade, where we fortuitously ran into Isabella. We also got to see the amazing city of Skopje because of our late bus, and we were lucky to see Ljubljana as well, since we found a bus that went directly to Lake Bled—otherwise, it would have been very difficult to visit, given our limited time. It appears that my friend, philosopher, and guide, Mahisashura (being a confirmed atheist), conspired to make the tour a great success!

https://www.wtransporter.com/#timetable

19.10.24 (Saturday)

https://www.ljubljana.info/airport/bus/

Skopje to Ljubljana: The Great Balkan-Jet Hop

We left Skopje at 04:10 AM and reached Belgrade at 05:10 AM. After a quick layover, we boarded our next flight from Belgrade at 07:30 AM, landing at Ljubljana Airport at 08:55 AM. The original plan was simple: hop on a bus to Ljubljana City Centre, drop off our luggage at the hotel, and head straight to Lake Bled.

An Unexpected Greek Twist

But travel plans have a funny way of changing. A Greek gentleman we met at the airport told us about a bus going directly to Lake Bled. So, with spontaneous travel spirit kicking in, we skipped the city centre and headed straight to Bled, which lies further north. Ljubljana City Centre is to the south, so it felt like taking the scenic detour first.

In true Balkan storytelling fashion, the Greek man also informed us that "Kosovo is full of mafia," and that Greece recognizes North Macedonia now but not Kosovo, because it is "mostly Muslim state." He went on to say, “Kosovo is the Bangladesh of Europe!” Now that was a metaphor we didn’t see coming.

Apparently, most airport express buses from Ljubljana pass through the city centre, go to the airport, and then continue north to Bled. The ride to Lake Bled takes approximately 1.5 hours. From the airport, the fare was a mere €1.30—bargain of the day!

Arrival at Lake Bled

We reached Lake Bled around 11:00 AM and left our luggage at the bus depot/tourist info centre’s left-luggage facility—super convenient.

Exploring Lake Bled

We were told the lake was formed by a glacier, and off we went to circle it. Arindam and I began walking around the lake while Mohua chose to enjoy the serenity from a bench. The total distance to encircle the lake is about 6 km. It took us 2.5 hours, including plenty of photo stops and just soaking in the Alpine beauty. According to the tourist centre, it typically takes 1.5 hours for a brisk walker.

You can take a traditional "pletna" boat to Bled Island and visit the Pilgrimage Church of the Assumption. It’s charming but pricey at around €10 per person—so we skipped it. Lake Bled reminded me of Rabindra Sarobar Lake in Kolkata—yes, it has an island too—but this one is surrounded by forests and Alpine hills. At 2.4 km long and 1.3 km wide, it’s not massive, but the views are lovely. Sadly, it was a cloudy day, so capturing postcard-perfect photos proved tricky. If I had to compare, Lake Ohrid is in an entirely different league. If you’re short on time, you might consider skipping Lake Bled in favor of exploring Ljubljana city.

Bled Castle

Perched dramatically on a cliff, Bled Castle offers stunning views over the lake. We admired it from below but didn’t climb up for a visit.

Back to Ljubljana City Centre

We just missed the 13:30 bus back and caught the 14:00 one instead. It took 1.5 hours to get back to Ljubljana City Centre, arriving around 15:30. The fare was €1.40—just €0.10 more than the airport fare. Our hostel was within walking distance, but crossing the road was a challenge as a city marathon was in full swing.

After waiting for runners to pass, we finally tried to check in—only to discover that the receptionist had already left for the day! We asked a stranger on the street to call the owner. Thankfully, we were given the door code and then another password for the room.

Travel Tip:

Lockboxes have become the norm here. While booking, hosts don’t always share the code in advance. They usually email it 2–3 days before check-in, which can be inconvenient if you're already travelling. So, it’s a good idea to request the code early and ask for a nearby landmark to help find the place.

Evening in Ljubljana

While Mohua rested, Arindam and I set off to explore the city along the Ljubljanica River. Ljubljana took me completely by surprise. I’ve never seen such architectural finesse per square kilometre—it can rival Vienna! The city centre, especially along the river, is packed with bridges, buildings, and beauty. The Italian influence is clear. No surprise—it’s right next door. I suspect it may have been part of Italy at some point.

Congress Square

A grand square surrounded by landmarks like the University of Ljubljana and the Philharmonic Hall. There, we met a Slovenian security personnel named Kripa Pala Dasa, a devotee of ISKCON. He is not wearing dress of a monk. When we told him we were from Kolkata, he smiled and said, "Bangali Babu!" He’d been to Kolkata and even knew about India’s VIP culture. On learning I worked in the government, he joked, “Oh, so you don’t carry your file around?”

Must-See Spots in Ljubljana:

Prešeren Square: The city’s heart, with the iconic Prešeren Monument, Triple Bridge, and Robba Fountain.
Dragon Bridge: Ljubljana’s legendary dragons guard this photogenic bridge.
Central Market & Butcher’s Bridge: Bustling with colorful stalls, fresh produce, and souvenirs.
Ljubljana Cathedral (St. Nicholas’s Church): Baroque beauty and frescoed ceilings.
Town Hall & Robba Fountain: Historic charm and elegant fountains.
Ljubljana Castle: A funicular can take you up for panoramic city views—but we didn’t have time.
Tivoli Park & Metelkova: We didn’t visit, but these are perfect for greenery or a bohemian art vibe.

Ljubljana is expensive—especially compared to Kosovo and North Macedonia. But we did manage to find a fridge magnet for €1.50 (our cheapest souvenir in Ljubljana).

Random Observations in Yugoslavia

Surprisingly, we didn’t see a single Bengali tourist on the entire trip! We did spot a few Indians—mostly from South or North India. One of them plan to start a start up. But the number of Indian tourists was tiny compared to Western Europe. That said, we did come across 30–40 Indian students or IT professionals over the course of the trip. Not a single Bengali among them. Tells you something about Bengal, doesn’t it?

Optional Add-ons (If You Have Time):

Boat Ride on the Ljubljanica River: A relaxing cruise through the heart of the city.
National Gallery & Križanke Complex: Near Congress Square. Art and gardens for a peaceful detour.

20.10.24 (Sunday) -21.10.24 (Monday)

The Long Way Home (20.10.24 – 21.10.24)

Our bus from Ljubljana City Centre to Venice Marco Polo Airport departed at 01:10 AM. We reached the airport at 04:35 AM. Our flight to Helsinki left at 09:50 AM.

From Helsinki, we flew to Delhi and landed at 05:20 AM on Monday. Then we boarded our final flight to Kolkata... and went straight to the office from the airport.