Friday, April 30, 2010

King of Indian Classical Insturments


Next generation saves Ganga - The Telegraph (February 4, 2010)

The master is no more but his sons have ensured that the sweet sounds from the Ganga flow again. Ustad Amjad Ali Khan’s beloved instrument, which was damaged by Air India handlers while being flown from Ahmedabad to Mumbai last month, has been given a new lease of life by Calcutta’s Sen brothers whose father Hemen Chandra had made the sarod 34 years ago.A delighted Amjad Ali told The Telegraph: “It took around 10 days to repair. I am very happy with its sound. In fact, the sound has become better than before. The concert at Dover Lane Music Conference (on January 25) was the first event at which I performed with the Sarod. I performed for nearly four hours, from 3am to 7am that day.”The maestro has since criss-crossed the country regaling audiences with the sounds emanating from his beloved Ganga.“I performed in Delhi on January 29, in Mumbai on January 30, and Bangalore on January 31. God is great,” he said.The Sarod was damaged on the Air India flight despite being neatly packed in a hard box with several “fragile” stickers pasted on it. The maestro did not check the instrument immediately on landing in Mumbai on the morning of January 14.Later that evening, minutes before a concert in memory of vocalist Pandit C.R Vyas, he was shocked to discover that the sarod had suffered a damaged drum and its skin had torn off.The incident occurred barely two weeks after Hemen Sen died at the age of 87 at his south Calcutta residence on January 2.

The 19-stringed instrument, made of the finest Burma Teak, was the first the ustad had acquired from Hemen & Co.’s tiny Deshapriya Park shop in Calcutta.“Our father wouldn’t let us touch the instruments of any of the maestros,” said elder son Ratan Kumar, who learnt the craft from Hemenbabu along with his younger brother Tapan. “He would just let us watch as he repaired or fine-tuned these instruments.”This time around, the sons had to take on the task of repairing the ustad’s beloved Ganga. “He sent us the sarod the very next day, on January 15, and told us that it would be the one he would play at the Dover Lane music festival on January 25,” said Tapan.At the Hemen & Co. workshop, Ganga was rebuilt step by step, from the bare basics. In nine days, the brothers offered a sarod to the maestro that looked and sounded the same as the original Ganga.

“We built a new drum to be fitted with the headstalk — it had to be a seamless fit — and put on new keys, new skin and new strings on the instrument,” said Ratan.The task was a huge challenge, given the scarcity of the material used for the ustad’s specific design. “Burma Teak is not only expensive, it is quite a rare breed of wood. And then, it has to be seasoned wood, at least four decades old. People often have to wait for six months before a sarod made of this wood could be completed. Fortunately, we managed to acquire both the wood and the goatskin used as the playing face,” said Tapan.Even the goatskin has its specifications — it has to be of an animal that has been sacrificed at the Kalighat temple. The reason? The skin of an older animal wouldn’t do and the temple sacrifices only younger ones.Typically, Amjad Ali’s sarods are 19-stringed instruments, comprising six main strings, two chikari strings and 11 sympathetic strings. He also uses either a chrome or nickel-plated cast steel fingerboard.While the shop puts on Roslau strings from Germany on all their instruments, Khansahab usually makes changes to the strings according to his needs.

The maestro lavished praise on the Sens. “Though Hemenbabu is no more, his two sons Ratan and Tapan are equally competent. There are many sarod makers in Mumbai, Delhi, and Calcutta, but they (the Sens) understand the right kind of sound or swar. Sarod ki atma ko yahi log samajhte hain aur swar hi ishwar hain,” Khansahab told The Telegraph while taking an evening walk.The ustad, whose two sons Amaan and Ayaan are seventh generation sarod players of the Senia-Bangash gharana, said he owns nine instruments, all manufactured by the Sens.“I have named the sarods after different Indian rivers like Ganga, Godavari, Janhavi, Jamuna etc. Like air, which creates sound, water is also one of nature’s elements. Nature is important, and the last day of Dover Lane Music Conference was dedicated to environment,” he said.

Outllok Magazine (July , 2009)


People from New York have come to acquire a sitar from Hemen & Company, because stories of his unrivalled craftsmanship have travelled across the seven seas. Says Sen with justifiable pride: “Many people come from across the world looking for me. Sometimes they come with a map, but they look at the shop and go away. Then they return, confused, because they were expecting something grand, not this little hole in the wall. Then they look at me,” he chuckles, “and think this cannot possibly be the man they are looking for.”

According to Hemen Sen, the quality of a musical instrument depends not just on carefully selecting and fashioning the wood (which is usually toon or teak) and the gourd (which is specially grown for its size and shape), or attaching the strings in a particular way, but also on the maker’s understanding of music. “It’s as much about being able to tune it, for which you need to have a gift for music,” he says. At 13, Hemen came to Calcutta from Kumillah, East Bengal (now Bangladesh), and became the disciple of sitar player Ustad Ali Ahmed Khan, Ustad Ali Akbar Khan’s uncle. On Ali Ahmed’s suggestion, he started making musical instruments to make a living. Soon, orders came flooding in through Ali Ahmed and his disciples. His first sitar sold for as little as Rs 6; today a piece starts at Rs 15,000 and can go up to Rs 70,000 depending on wood quality, string quality, workmanship and special features the buyer may demand. Sarods, in which he specialises, start at Rs 26,000 and go up to Rs 65,000. Today, he gets regular orders from the Ali Akbar College of Music in California, and says that the recently deceased maestro himself would visit the shop whenever he happened to be in town.

My input

They are my neighbours. I once bought a small string (Hemen was alive then) from thier shop in 2005 for Tukuda when I was in Siliguri, for his Sitar. In 2010 I went to his shop with Anindya and saw that 0ne Sarod is being made for Aman Ali Khan. Only 20% has been completed.However if somebody wants cheaper variety, of course one can buy it from shops near Lalbazar (Calcutta Police Head quarter) for even 5,000-6,000/-

Thursday, April 1, 2010

Holi at Purulia

26/02/2010

On 26/02 night we(Isabella,Vidyut and me) left for Adra,Purulia to spend our holi/Dol at Purulia (Chelyama,Bandhar Deul). Vidyut joined us at Howrah station. It is an overnight journey.

HOW TO GO THERE?

Train to AdraAdra Chakradharpur or Rupasi Bangla or Purulia Express — from Howrah.
We went by Adra Chakradharpur express to reach Adra station, early in the morning on 27.02.2010. The journey takes around 5-and-a-half hours.

Dol or Holi is celebrated in a unique way in some parts of Purulia, at Chelyama in Raghunathpur-II .
27/02/2010

Our stay was arranged by a local organisation, Manbhum Sanskriti Kendra in colloboration with Banglanatak.com. During Holi/Dol, they organise car pick-ups from the station. A 45 minutes drive later, we arrived at our destination, Chelyama.




We were thrilled that we would be staying in tents pitched amid tall Palash trees. The tents turned out to be bit too hot, complete with mattresses, blankets and pillows.


The beauty of the place lies in the fact, that there is forest all around that place. Isabella was scared of Vidyut's snoring, so we managed to get her a separate tent. Vidyut and I shared a tent with an employee of Banglnatak.com - Bikashda. In the morning we wandered around the place through the forest and went to the villages.

After having our lunch we went for sightseeing @ Rs 150/- per head. We went to see some dilapidated temples and the river Damodar.We were told that number of Rekh Deuls (Orissa school of temple architecture) were submerged under water after the Dam was erected by DVC. Even today some of the Rekh Deuls are under water. For the first time I saw/understood the problem caused by those dams.




We saw the villagers ferrying illegal coal from mines, nearby.


Terracota temples

In the evening the whole area was lighted by halogen lamps wonderfully.

We saw some cultural programmes. I was particularly impressed by Natua dance. We saw tribal bonfire too! The night is quite cold there.


Chhau dance- folk dance of Purulia by Bina Dhar Kumar's troupe - Amitabh Bachchan of Chhau dance

28/02/2010
The next morning, waking up to the sound of birds and the rustle of leaves, I stepped out of our tent to be greeted by a crisp sun and baul singer Sasthi Baul strumming his ektara and singing: “Bhenge mor ghorer chabi, niye jabi ke amare!” It was a moment to cherish.




The Holi/Dol festival is organised around a magnificent temple dating back to the 8th century — Bandhar Deul. Villagers say the deity was stolen many years back and no one now knows which God the temple was dedicated to. In the morning we started playing with abir to the tune of baul songs and drumbeats.

Isabella and Sasthi Das Baul


Sasthi das Baul wasted no time in flirting with Isabella - whom Isa referred to her boyfriend! Subhas Roy at the background.

Famous Baul Sasthi Das Baul with 'heavenly' looks after drinking Mohua

This is what happens to ordinary mortals after drinking Mohua

There were around 250 visitors from Calcutta and beyond, and we all enjoyed the festival together. Famous singer Anasuya came to see the festival. Smeared in colours of every hue, we sang and danced throughout the morning.
A group from "Sappho for Equality" also came to enjoy Holi.

We sat beneath a tree to listen some Baul song. I also took 2 glasses of "Mohua" - famous local brew ! Fiery red Palash trees added to the festive feel.


The organisers had thankfully set up a dozen temporary bathrooms and in the afternoon we put them to good use, scrubbing away the day’s work! After lunch we brought our bed sheet and settled beneath a tree,beside a pond (since the tent was very hot) and Isa,Vid and I chatted till it became dark. It was really enjoyable and refreshingly cool.

In the evenings, we enjoyed chhau, jhumur and various other folk dances and baul fakiri songs. The bauls had come all the way from Asan-nagar in Nadia district. About 10,000 people from nearby villages came to watch the evening performances, giving the place the feel of a huge mela.


A Calcutta-based organisation, banglanatak dot com, founded by Amitava Bhattacharya, has helped the local people develop a community-led heritage folk tourism during Holi.
Set amid beautiful landscape, Chelyama also has terracotta and Jain temples dating back to 6th-8th century.

1/03/2010 (Monday)

In the morning we heard some Bauls song around the Rekh Deul.


Baul Nikhil and Prafulla Biswas

In the morning we wandered around the place through the forest and went to the villages.
Many people left for Calcutta. In the morning there was Kabi sammelan - "poetry get-together" - local people reading out their self composed poetry.

In the evening we saw some programme and left for Adra station around 9 p.m.
The tents were organised by Manbhum Sanskriti Kendra, Subhas Roy (9932780094).He is an authority of this region and doing his Phd based on local theme. One can also contact Siddhanjan (9831 38 26 72) of Banglanatak.com. The organisers provide very good food (veg/non-veg) and mineral water. The food is not at all oily and it is obvious special care is taken about it.

Every year this Basanta Utsav is being organized . I strongly recommend it, instead of Holi at Santiniketan. They charge only Rs 1000/- per person. For pick up and drop service from the station they charge only Rs 300 - which is reasonable considering the distance.
We reached Calcutta on 02/03/2010 early in the morning. It was an amazing experience.
To see the pictures click

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

James Randi - father of rationalism movement in US


James Randi is the father of rationalism movement in USA.  I had the good fortune to interact with him once ! I am giving various links to what he said about different subjects and also by other rationalists.



See what he has to say about Homeopathy



See what he has to say about Astrology




See how James Randi exposes Uri Geller - famous for "mind power" to bend spoon








See how Uri Geller Fails on The Tonight Show




See the programme of James Randi and Star-Sign Compatibility




Using Telekinesis in Magic Tricks : The Spoon Bending Trick Explained: Learn Free Magic





See how James Randi exposes James Hydrick




James hydrick's confesion of his trick




Magician James Randi shows us a trick



See Amazing James Randi's Rope Trick



Discussion between James Randi and Richard Dawkins



Introducing Richard Feynman





Richard Feynman: Disrepect for Authority




Saturday, January 23, 2010

Bengali Theatres - in Calcutta/Kolkata -



The many theatres in West Bengal can be broadly divided into Kolkata-based theatres and rural theatres. Outside Bengali-speaking areas, the term "Bengali theatre" primarily refers to Kolkata-based groups, as the rural theatres are less well-known. 
There are also Bengali folk theatres. There are many dialects of Bengali spoken in West Bengal and Bangladesh. The larger Bengali theatres use the dialect spoken in Kolkata, Bengali folk theatres have performances in some of the other Bengali dialects.
There is another category of Bengali theatre called Jatra, which is run commercially in rural West Bengal and Bangladesh. The most prominent characteristics of Jatra are over-acting and extensive use of traditional musical instruments. Many popular Bengali film artists participate in Jatra.

Bengali theatre has its origins in British rule. It began as private entertainment in the early 19th century.In the pre-independence period, Bengali theatres played a pivotal role in manifesting dislike of the British Raj. After the independence of India in 1947, leftist movements in West Bengal used theatre as a propaganda tool. This added some unique characteristics to the art form that still have strong effects. These groups differentiate themselves ideologically from commercial Bengali theatre.
West Bengal's capital Kolkata—as the former capital of India—was the birthplace of modern Indian literary and artistic thought, and is referred to as the "cultural capital of India".The presence of paras, which are neighbourhoods that possess a strong sense of community, is characteristic of West Bengal. Typically, each para has its own community club and, on occasion, a playing field. Residents engage in addas, or leisurely chats, that often take the form of freestyle intellectual conversation. West Bengal has a long tradition of popular literature, music and drama.

Kolkata is the birth place of modern Indian Theatre. Under British colonial rule, modern Indian theatre began when a theatre was started in Belgachia, Kolkata. Rabindranath Tagore, who was awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1913, is probably India's best-known modern playwright.His plays are written in Bengali and include Chitra (Chitrangada, 1892), The King of the Dark Chamber (Raja, 1910), The Post Office (Dakghar, 1913), and Red Oleander (Raktakarabi, 1924.
(Source : Wikipedia)

I have seen numerous Theatres in Delhi and Kolkata. I will slowly list the ones I have enjoyed gradually.It will take some time! I am little biased towards Utpal Datta.

Today I saw Ja nei Bharate by Manoj Mitra based on story of Mahabharat at Tapan Theatre. Manoj Mitra has acted wonderfully in it. It basically tells you about the story of Mahabharat before the Kurukshetra war.

It is worth seeing.

It tells you about the manipulations made by the different characters of the epic, which is not very well known.

I would strongly recommend you to see Utpal Dutta's Kirat Parba after this theatre. Kirat Parba (talks you about the manipulations in the Kurukshetra war) is undoubtedly one of the best thatres i have ever seen.




I saw two interesting theatres in 2011 - first one is "Paribartan" - translated by Utpal Datta , PLT, it is on Professor Mamlock, a successful and respected Jewish surgeon, does his best to ignore the political crisis of the Weimar Republic. He is greatly troubled by the political tendencies of his son, Rolf, a passionate communist who is determined to resist the strengthening Nazi Party by all means. When the Nazis seize power and brutally crush all opposition, Mamlock is forced to leave his clinic for Jews are no longer allowed to practice medicine. He is dragged through the streets by SA men who emblazon his doctor's robe with the word "Jew". Mamlock, broken and humiliated, attempts suicide but fails.

As he recovers, he hears an SA rally outside the hospital. He carries a speech calling on the people to resist, having finally realized that his political apathy was a mistake. The SA shoot him dead. Rolf, who escaped a deportation to a concentration camp, becomes leader of a new resistance movement .

The theatre is worth watching.

The second one is E=mc2, it is Based on Badal Sircar’sTringsho Shatabdi & Inspired by Ferdinand Gigon’s E=mc2:Formula for Death. Director : Raja Bhattacharya

Digging into the past, Sarat Chowdhury, an ``insane`` professor unearths information on the handling of nuclear energy. `E=mc2 , Einstein`s revolutionary formula had shaken the world in the first half of the 20th century and paved the way for a new world, perhaps braver but much more ruthless. The atomic bombing of Hiroshima and Nagasaki in 1945 revealed just how lethal such knowledge, especially when used against an unsuspecting population, can be.


The play depicts the imaginary trial of representatives of the human race – scientists, professors, doctors, engineers, politicians and military personnel on the one hand, and the charred, bereaved, traumatized victims of the bombing, on the other. As the trial proceeds, terrible truths are reveled, and Sharat`s thirst for justice –for the individual as well as for the entire human race – grows stronger. Terrified about the potential radioactive fallout that might be unleashed on the world and through his emotionally effected state, he manages to reach what he believes to be the root of the malady.


Although first half was unremarkable, second half was really remarkable. the only problem I faced is understanding the name of people (Westerners) - due to bad pronunciation.




Meyeti

Today I saw a theatre at EZCC - "Meyeti" by Lok Krishti (direction by Kishore Sen gupta). It is based on story of Eriel Dorfman. I really liked it and bought a VCD. Interestingly I saw the theatre in 2009 at Sujata Sadan,Hazra, based on same story, but by a different theatre group!

....... .. .............

Canvasser and Byomkesh






Today (16.04.2011.), we saw the theatre at Academy directed by Bratya Basu. As usual it was of high quality as expected from Bratya Basu. It was a murder mystery by Sardindu Bandopadhyay where suspect was the family members. The music was good and role played by the detective was of very high quality.

Friday, December 25, 2009

Nostalgic Murshidabad

25th December 2009 .

Barun and I left for Baharampore by bus from Esplanade at 6 a.m. The ticket costs around Rs 90 and the journey takes 5 hours.This city is well connected by national highway 34. 

It is 186 km away from Kolkata . Berhampore located just in the central position of West Bengal and was the first Head Quarter of the East India Company .

In earlier days it was known as Brahmapur because many of the brahmin families settled there in earlier days - from which the city got its name.We have decided to stay at Behrampore since there are not enough rooms left in Murshidabad, we were told, since this is a pick season. 

But if you get a chance please book the hotel Manjusha (room 202) just behind Hazar Duari (beside Bhagirathi river), mentioned in Lonely Planet. Since all the hotels were booked ,we ended up staying at a over priced , dingy hotel in the tourist area of Behrampore (just beside Lake ). I would recommend you not to stay anywhere near the bus depot.

After taking our breakfast ,we headed for Karna-subarna in Murshidabad district. 

Shashanka, the controversial Bengali monarch who ruled over the kingdom of Gaur from 600 to 638 AD and checked the eastward march of the imperial armies of Gupta king Harshavardhana, had his capital here. Karna-subarna is now home to the ruins of the ancient Buddhist university of Rakta-mrittika. The famous Chinese traveller, Xuanzang (Hsuen Tsang), who toured India in the 7th Century, mentioned this university in his travelogues as an important centre of learning of the Vajrayani Buddhists.

We took an overcrowded Trekker from the stand and headed for Khagra Ghat . Part of our journey was by hanging from the trekker and part of the journey was sitting above the roof of trekker! Behrampore to Karna-subarna by Trekker costs Rs 9.

Raj-bari-danga, also known as Raja Karna’s Palace, was first excavated by archaeologists of Calcutta University in 1962. Their findings consisted of the ruins of a large Buddhist Vihar. Terracotta seals and other artefacts helped identify the ruins as those of Rakta-mrittika Mahavihar. 

Ruins of Shashanka’s citadel were also excavated.

The ruins were declared a site of national importance. Two other sites had been excavated close to Raj-baridanga. They are Rakshashi (female demon) Dhipi and Nil Kuthi (indigo bungalow) Dhipi. Not much structural evidence has been unearthed at these sites, but both have thrown up interesting artefacts from bygone times. Located within a couple of kilometres of Raj-baridanga, the two sites are considered monuments of national importance.

Although declared a site of national importance, the ruins lie in utter neglect. However they do give you a feel of historical nostalgia.

It would not be an exaggeration, if I say, I was utterly disappointed by the place - as hardly anything was left to be seen. We did not have the energy to go to Nil Kuthi (indigo bungalow). However the area itself has its own charm. We saw only Rakshashi (female demon) Dhipi and sat for time under the cool banyan tree.


On the return journey, we took a bus to go back to Behrampore.There is no place to stay at Karna-subarna. There are no eateries at Karna-subarna.

After coming back we had our lunch and decided to go to New and old Old Cossimbazar Palace.

We hired a rickshaw. The entry fee of New Rajbari was Rs 20/- . It is really nice and worth going .


We were not allowed to enter the old Rajbari,though I tried to enter - since people still stay there.

We also saw the Dutch graveyard on the way.


Today being the day of Christmas, we went to visit Armenian church at Saidabad- it was already dark and was very crowded! It is the Oldest Armenian Church of the Eastern India , built in 1757 AD.

When we returned it was already evening. After returning back we decided to find some good hotel for us. Then I called Samrat Hotel, mentioned in Lonely Planet. It is 8-10 minutes (by rickshaw) from the main tourist area (near bus depot) of Behrampore. When we called them they said rooms are available at a princely price of Rs 200/- ! It was too good to be true. So we went there to see it in our own eyes! After going there we were quite surprised , it is definitely much much better than the one where we are staying and much cheaper. It is a real value for money proposition. 

There are good AC rooms too.I strongly recommend this hotel to everybody going to Berhampore. They have a very good restaurant too! In fact it is near Railway station too.


So we returned hotel on that day and told the owner we will be leaving tomorrow morning . We had dinner at a chinese restaurant.

26th December 2009 .

We left our hotel early in the morning and shifted to our new hotel - Samrat . After keeping our luggage in our hotel, we went to the bus stand from where we took a trekker to go to Murshidabad city. The fair was Rs 12, I think. It took half an hour to reach Murshidabad. 

The Hazarduari Palace, or the palace with a 1000 doors is the chief tourist attraction of Murshidabad. This 3-storey palace was built in 1837 by Duncan McLeod for the Nawab Najim Humaun Jah, descendent of Mir Zafar. It has 1000 doors (among which only 900 are real) and 114 rooms and 8 galleries, built in European(Italian) architectural style. It is now a museum and has an exquisite collection of armoury, splendid paintings, exhaustive portraits of the Nawabs, various works of art including beautiful works of ivory and many other valuables.

Swords used by Shiraj-ud-Daulla and his grandfather, Nawab Alivardi Khan, can be seen here. The other attractions in this floor are Vintage Cars and Fittan Cars used by the Nawabs and their families.

The building is rectangular on plan ( 424 feet Long and 200 feet broad and 80 feet high). The Palace was used for holding the "Durbar" or meetings and other official work of the Nawabs and also as the residence of the high ranking British Officials.

Murshidabad is a city in Murshidabad district of West Bengal state in India. The city of Murshidabad is located on the southern bank of the Bhagirathi, a tributary of the Ganges River. It was the capital of undivided Bengal during the Mughal rule. Nawabs of Bengal used to rule Bengal from this city. It is still inhabited, but has none of the glory it used to have- except for the royal buildings. At that time it was even compared with London.

The city of Murshidabad was the latest capital of Bengal before British era.In 1704 the nawab Murshid Quli Khan changed the seat of government from Dhaka to Maksudabad, which he called after his own name.

The family of Jagat Seth maintained their position as state bankers at Murshidabad from generation to generation. Even after the conquest of Bengal by the British, Murshidabad remained for some time the seat of administration. Warren Hastings removed the supreme civil and criminal courts to Calcutta in 1772, but in 1775 the latter court was brought back to Murshidabad again. In 1790, under Lord Cornwallis, the entire revenue and judicial staffs were fixed at Calcutta.

The town is still the residence of the nawab, who ranks as the first nobleman of the province with the style of Nawab Bahadur of Murshidabad, instead of Nawab Nazim of Bengal. The city still bears memories of Nawabs with other palaces, mosques, tombs, and gardens, and retains such industries as carving in ivory, gold and silver embroidery, and silk-weaving. An educational institution is named after Nawab family.

The District Of Murshidabad is divided into 2 nearly equal portions by the Bhagirathi, the ancient channel of the Ganges. The tract to the west, known as the Rarh, consists of hard clay and nodular limestone. The general level is high, but interspersed with marshes and seamed by hill torrents. The Bagri or eastern half belongs to alluvial plains of eastern Bengal.

The major industry is that of silk, formerly of much importance, and now revived with government assistance.

Our trekker dropped us near Hazar Duari Palace.

The entry fare is Rs 5 only. It is truly majestic in nature. There is Imambara inside the Hazarduari Palace complex - built in 1847 AD. by Nawab Nazim Mansoor Ali Khan Feradun Jahat at a cost of more than 6 lacs.


The Imambara, which is the largest in Bengal, is perhaps the largest in India. It is open only during Muharram. We were lucky to enter the Imambara since it was Muharram time.


One resident of Behrampore told me he has gone to the Imambara for the first time in his life, since it is closed normally.

Then we started walking along the right hand side of the palace. All the places are along this route except Katra Masjid, which is diagonally opposite a lane off Hazarduari.



One thing is certain the place will most certainly give you - an old world charm ; pony ride is more common than any other mode of transport.

Along the way you will see Jagat Seth's palace , we saw Nasipur Palace - The Nasipur Palace was built by Kirti Chand, a descendent of Debi Singh. Debi Singh, who settled here from Punjab, was a tax collector in the early days of the East India Company .




Jafar Deori- Some descendants of Mirjafar still live there


Jafarganj cemetery - The Cemetery contains the tombs of the Nawab’s Nazim, from Mir Jafar to Humayun Jah. It is still maintained by the descendants of Mir Jafar. They charge Rs 3 for entering the cemetery.



Home of Jagat-seth - He is said to be the wealthiest person of the world in those days - having his own personal mint. There was a entry fee(Rs 3) to see the palace.



Kathgola palace - A lane beside Jagat Seth's palace leads you to Kathgola palace . It is huge complex, there I met Ujjwal Mukherjee , my office colleague - he is leading a big group coming from mostly Champahati.

While coming back we took a rickshaw and went on see Katra mosque. It was already becoming dark - we reached just in time to see the magnificent mosque.

Katra Masjid - built by Nawab Murshid Quli Khan in 1723-24 and it remains one of the most important tourist attractions. The gorgeous building with its huge domes and high minarets has a simple cemetery of the Nawab below the front staircase.



Footi mosque - While coming back from Katra mosque, we saw Footi mosque - so named because there is hole in the roof . It was to be made in a day - as per the legend - which never happened and remained unfinished to date.



We took a share car to return back to Berhampore. We had our dinner at Samrat hotel. The food is really good.Chicken sweet corn soup (Rs 50) and Garlic Chicken(Rs 65) is really good.

27th December 2009 

Today we took a boat ride to go to the other side of the river - which is basically part of Rarh. We took a conducted tour by boat to see the other side of Murshidabad -
Namak Haram Deori - known as the Traitor's gate, Siraj ud Daulah was killed in this spot.

Khoshbagh - The grave of Nawab Alivardi Khan, Alivardi’s Mother, Siraj-ud-Doula and his wife Lutfannesha and other members of the Nawab family lie here.





Moti Jhil - This beautiful horseshoe shaped lake was excavated by Nawazesh Mohammad, the husband of the famous Ghasseti Begum. In the palace adjoining it (now in ruins) Lord Clive celebrated the acquisition of the Dewani of Sube Bangla (Bengal, Bihar & Orissa) in 1765. Moti Jheel was the home of Warren Hastings when he became the Political President at the Durbar of the Nawab Nazim (1771 - 73 AD).

Today we once again went to see the beuatiful Katra mosque. After spending some time there we went to see the canon locally referred to as Topkhana which is quite uninspiring.

Then we returned to Behrampore and took a train to go back to Calcutta.

Chronological order

Followers